ktmlew

OHHHH CRAP! Jim is my kinda guy! Just wish he could fix the heat up in his area of the country...I get cold at 40 above F much less trying to deal with -40!

I'm assuming the check-valve just gets crap in it allowing it to leak? Take apart, clean & reassemble or do you have to replace the spring, needle & seat?

To fill the others in, this post is what brought up the subject: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=8743&page=1#Post8743 The guy/boss IS an ASE Master Tech, was working as a tech until he built this shop, but has never worked in a dealership. Seemed to have a bit of an attitude about dealership techs too...figured anyone working flat-rate was a crook by association. Appeared to be a good enough tech but just couldn't let me or anyone else, do their own diagnosis. I know the shop belongs to him and he has the ultimate responsibility for how a job turns out, but I am big believer in giving someone enough rope to hang themselves. If you get burned a time or two then you watch the offender like a hawk or kick em' to the curb... He is what southerners call a "damn yankee"...one that comes down here and STAYS...just in case you "Yankees" don't know it, you have a bit of a "tude" about you that doesn't fly very well down south...he was from New York. He, on several occasions, mentioned how stupid the customers were and how much he hated the area IE; too slow, inept help at the parts stores, the pizza wasn't "New York Style, etc... Just so you know...I was born in Ohio & raised from 9 years old in WV. Moved to NC in Jan 96...I'm now a "southerner"...

He built a brand new 8 bay building and still has no heat...he's not one to make any "rash" decisions. Been open since early August and it's been down under 30 here already. The choices are Propane or waste oil heater. Just make a freaking decision dewd! The final straw was a 01 Windstar that came in last week on my day off. Usual lean codes. He sold them plugs and fuel filter as it had 80K on it and appeared to be OE fuel filter. Mentioned to customer that intake gaskets may need replaced as it was a known problem. "C" tech performed the work on the tune-up and mentioned it had a knock...they thought it sounded like a rod knock. So it comes back with CEL on and lean codes. I diag it as needing complete intake re-seal from heads up. He has techs call for parts and look up labor times. I give him the ticket with "Intake gaskets" $XX.XX. He comes out and asks 3 or 4 ways how I determined what it needed...then comes out again and asks if ALL the parts are included in my list as it's much cheaper than Ford prices. "No asshole...been doing this for 30 freaking years and I always price out half the parts to screw your estimate up"...what it comes down to is, he has never done one of these, so he isn't 100% sure it needs to be done. At some point while discussing the situation with another tech, he mentions the knock. Fire it up and sure enough it's the upper intake rattling...after 40 minutes of arguing what was making the noise, I blew a gasket. He wanted us to take it apart to verify the upper intake was coming apart as "he had never seen or heard of that"... Every single job was a battle with him to prove your diagnosis. I really don't like to be second guessed if I haven't given a good reason to be. Typical deal where the guy on the counter knows more than the tech... I'm not perfect but damned close! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

Ok...not my problem any longer. I folded my tent and went home. Let the boss figure it out as he didn't trust anything I told him... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif Unemployed again! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whattodo.gif

As for scan tools we have a brick and a brand new demo Modis. I've told hime about the general opinion of the Modis but he's a Snap-on guy so? Tried to get him to go for either the Pro EASE software, inspection machine is EASE and has basic diag program, or the Auto Integrity deal on a laptop. Hmmmmm? Forgot about the EASE deal? Maybe we should try it and see what it offers?

I was off work today so didn't get any more done on it, but did stop and tell the boss, "we" are on-the-case! I appreciate the help guys. o2's read normally most of the time. On last test drive it was coming around, Baro was reading 156 (normal here is 155-157), LT fuel was 0 and ST 12 when I started to turn off highway. Instant I chopped throttle it went berserk and started lean surging and would barely run, 02's dropped to 0 and system went into open loop. Limped back to shop. Ran this way for at least 20 minutes. Since it was in open loop scan data was of dubious value...Shut-off and connected fuel pressure gage to see if something had gone haywire. 58psi running. I've looked wiring over and found some close calls, wiring was touching EGR tube, but no damage yet. I still want to get an IAC on it so it will run the KOER test. Not sure if the IAC possibly has a short and kicks the system into Failure Effects Management Mode? This one is going to be an ass-kicker!!! We have approval for 2 more hours diag on it at this point.

Customer is trying to get vehicle through emissions inspection. Has junkyard engine. Not sure what differences there are from a flex-fuel to the regular set-up? When cold it runs like crap, surges,stalls, etc like it's lean and doesn't run very good when warm. The fact it does it worse cold indicates a base fuel system problem but fuel pressure is right on spec. Don't have a smoke machine to check for intake leaks but have tried spraying everything with carb cleaner with IAC unplugged. No dice... New plugs, wires, MAF, EGR valve. EGR is not sticking. When first tested, didn't have any codes in system other than P1000, except pending 171 & 174. Fuel trims go to 22-27 at idle on both short & long term. Runs better with IAC disconnected. If IAC is connected vehicle runs crappy when driven. Fuel trim goes to 0 on LT but reads 43 on ST when driven. Baro PID seems to be all over the place as it sometimes is 157 and others 147-157. No rhyme or reason to it? I tried another MAF from Advance. Identical PID readings and performance. It won't run KOER as it apparently DOES have a problem with the IAC. Kicks a PO505 I think? Boss is the type that will test for a week before replacing ANYTHING. I used to be exactly the same but have learned that sometimes you have to try something! It did go into open loop on one test drive and barely limped back to the shop which kicked PO131 & 151. When it goes nuts it blubbers like it's rich but isn't? Customer says it's run this way since engine installed. Next up is to pull plenum and do a pressure drop test on injectors, then pull lower intake to inspect gaskets. This is the only thing I hate about being at an Indy shop. Lack of tools and technical help when you get a problem child!

Still eating the belt. Truck (95 F350 7.3 DI Turbo) has 400 miles on it since replacing tensioner & belt with upgrade. Chewed the back side of belt off. One rib. Seems to be a problem on tensioner/alternator side. Removed tensioner for better visablity of pulleys. Only thing we can see is whomever replaced the alt apparently held the pulley with Channelock pliers. Had some burrs on the rear flange. Used a file with it running to smooth pully. I put it back together and put the belt with a missing rib on correctly and it seems to be hanging on... Boss ordered the laser belt alingment dealio...

I did! Screw Ford. Working at an indy shop that does mostly tires, alignments, brakes, etc...pays by the hour so I KNOW what my paycheck will be from week to week. Will NEVER work flat-rape again. I saw this extended warranty coming back when the 6.0L was released and the injectors were failing left & right. That's why I quit. I make much less an hour than when I was working FR but my weekly paycheck isn't that much different. At least not enough for me to EVER go back to the dealership. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/puke.gif

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=300&cat=764&page=1

Any more news on this one. Maybe the IPR fixed it but it just still had air in the HP sysytem?

First off I would inspect the wiring harness closly in the area of the drivers side engine lift bracket & shock mount for chafing. The P0640 is for the Intake Air Heater which is supposed to he reduce cold smoking. Pull it out and see if it's burnt...I like fixing the "easy" stuff first. P0198-System Operation from AllData... Signal Functions The Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) sensor is a thermistor type sensor that has a variable resistance that changes when exposed to different temperatures. When interfaced with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) , it produces a 0 to 5 volt analog signal that will deduce temperature. Cranking Fuel Quantity/Timing Control - The EOT sensor signal is used to determine the timing and quantity of fuel required to optimize starting over all temperature conditions. Idle Speed - At oil temperatures below 70°C (158°F) low idle is incrementally increased to a maximum of 950 rpm . Temperature Compensation - Fuel quantity and timing is controlled throughout the total operating range to ensure adequate torque and power is available. Glow Plug Control - The glow plug relay and lamp ON time are controlled by engine oil temperature. Detection/Management An EOT sensor signal that is detected out of range (high or low) by the PCM will cause the PCM to ignore the EOT sensor signal and assume an engine oil temperature of -34°C (-29 °F) for starting and a temperature of 100°C (212°F) for engine-running conditions. The CHECK ENGINE light will also be illuminated as long as the condition exists. NOTE: After removing connectors, always check for damaged pins, corrosion, loose terminals, etc. Connector Checks To Ground (B-) (Check With Sensor Connector Disconnected And Ignition Key Off, All Accessories Off) CONNECTOR CHECKS TO GROUND (B-) (CHECK WITH SENSOR CONNECTOR DISCONNECTED AND IGNITION KEY OFF, ALL ACCESSORIES OFF) DTC Descriptions Circuit Faults: P0197 = EOT sensor circuit low input P0198 = EOT sensor circuit high input System Faults P0196 (49 State except Econoline) = Engine oil temperature less than 74°C (165°F) or above 116°C (240°F) during KOER Cylinder Contribution Self Test (self test access denied). P1184 (California and all Econoline) = Engine oil temperature less than 74°C(165°F) or above 116°C (240°F) during KOER Cylinder Contribution Self Test (self test access denied). _____________________________________________________________ P1119-Just run thru the PP test. Actually I would quickly look at all the PP test for the codes recieved to see if anything jumps out at you? This is starting to sound like one that DOES have multiple failures? I would be suspicious of a biased ICP and an IDM that has gone brain dead...then you also have the possible damage from using the "juice cans"...plus possible wiring harness dama ge from chafing.

It's done. New tech that just started last week ended up doing it. He was suprised he had to chop that big a chunk off the bracket, where the old idler went, to make the tensioner fit. Of course we didn't get the belt routing sticker but I knew how to do that so didn't matter. Found it has a lift pump leaking so still not quite finished with it.

Man you are on top of your game! I'll relay the info once I get a better look at the vehicle. Thanks again.

It's a 7.3L turbo. I'll get all the straight dope when it comes back. The belt deal was an afterthought. Wasn't on the ticket to start with.

The biggest problem the Indy shops face is lack of reliable info. We use AllDataPro but it doesn't, IMO, have ALL the tsb's listed. Maybe Dieseldoctor's site will have it? As I mentioned before I currently lack time...this will get better fairly soon though as one rookie is very motivated and learning quickly. I think the other is GONE! Boss hasn't heard from him this week...another was unloading his toolbox when I left to go vist the bone-cracker this afternoon. Bent over Sunday and WHAMMO! Back killed me for last 4 days... The other "tech" that just started last week, about mid-week, left at noon yesterday to go buy a streetbike...didn't show up this morning and didn't answer calls to his cell...finally came in on crutches around 3:00. Crashed bike on way home from purchase. Blamed it on the dealership that sold him the bike cause they took too long doing the paperwork??? I suppose not knowing the throttle turns both directions didn't have anything to do with not making a turn and busting out through the trees? He's actually real lucky. So now he will be the part-time guy...whether he likes it or not...seems to have a problem admitting HE made a mistake. As for the stress...I'm a stress magnet...always ready to blow a gasket. Just came from first appointment with a new chiropractor. He checked my blood-pressure. 100/60 Shouldn't be standing up? I checked it at Wallmart a week or so ago and it was 94/62 with pulse rate of 71...I figured the thing was broken. Maybe not?

I mentioned this on the other thread...I listed it as 450 there. It's 350. Doesn't matter really. Need to provide some explanation. Went to work at an Indy shop about a month ago. Owner is a master tech but spends 98% of his time on the front desk. First 3 weeks we had two complete rookies that I had to help with every job. Lots of juggling... Finally hired another real tech but so far he isn't a sure-to-show up type of guy...means I'm "multitasking" more than I really like. Have absolutely ZERO time to diag anything. If it takes more than 88 seconds, guarantted to get interupted. Plus the fact I took about a 2 year sabatical from the business. The alignment machine, apparently bought cheap, has issues that requires multiple boot-ups while doing an alignment...it came over on the Ark...must have gotten damp. <grin> So back to the belt eating problem...new fan clutch, tensioner and alternator are obvious to see. Guess it started eating belts more than two years ago. As parts failed they were replaced but that didn't "fix" the belt issue. This truck looks like brand new. VERY nice shape. It's a manual trans 4X4. I tried the straight-edge deal, but about then one of the rookies started trying to kill some fancy 20" rims while mounting tires...ended up putting the belt back on and sent it down the road. Glad I'm working by the hour...NO MORE FLAT_RATE!!!

1.Loosened dipstick tube bracket and pulled out. 2.Removed starter <wanted plenty-o-room> and drained oil into a bucket. Owner uses Amsoil and it was just changed. 3.Bent a V shape on a piece of heavy wire and stuffed it in the "adapater". 4.Removed and pushed "adapter" inside pan and allowed to gently settle to bottom. 5.Cleaned pan inside and out. 6.Pulled "adapter" up to remove o-ring and found o-ring was broken, that's why it was leaking. 7.Fed new o-ring up wire and stuffed it thru hole and into groove in adapter. 8.Pulled adapter into position and installed nut with a bit of red loctite. 9.Changed dipstick o-ring and re-installed tube. 10.Re-installed starter and oil. Took about the same amount of time it took me to type this... Thanks for the help guys. The part numbers made this really easy. Next have to figure out why this truck eats belts...customer says it's been on-going for about two years. Only thing left on the belt driven system that hasn't been replaced is the PS pully or pump! I removed the belt and checked for failing vaccum pump, idlers, pulleys, etc...tensioner didn't wobble when being moved. Ran out of time as they needed the truck. Will bring it back later.

WTF aren't "we" getting better mileage now than we did thirty years ago? Had a couple of Datsun pickups that got north of 30mpg with no effort at all. 82 Mercury LN7, 1.6 carb'd 4spd, got 32-35 all day every day, handled like a slot car, was plenty quick enough from a stoplight. WTF happened? Some say it's the increased wight of ABS, Air Bags, safety beams, etc... I say it's because the engineers have gone HP crazy. Do we NEED a 200hp 4-cyl to drive to work every day? I think not. Sorry for the rant but Jim's post about a light-weight high HP 4 cyl just frosts my ass... I want a reasonably safe car that gets at least 50mpg on GASOLINE!!! Shouldn't cost 30K either.

I DID remember the notch! Just didn't remember if it had an o-ring or gasket. Sounds like a fairly easy fix. Will make me look like a hero...although I'm not smart enough to keep my mouth shut about you doing all the thinking... Thanks for the tips!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

You edited while I was posting...very sneaky! Sounds very doable though. I REALLY don't want to pull the motor or pan!!!

I'm out of the dealership currently so need some help with part numbers as finding a knowledgeable parts guy in this area is very tough. Don't remember the details of how this set-up works? O-ring seals the adapter to pan on inside or seals nut to pan on outside or SEALS EAT ALL THE FISH THEY CAN HOLD???/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/surprise.gif I was thinking it had a gasket on the inside? Been too long ago and I only worked on one... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/poke.gif

Leaking at dipstick tube "adapter". Big nut on outside was WAY lose. Only one I messed with before with this concern, pulled engine, removed pan and replaced the gasket that seals the tube "adapter" to the pan. Anyone come up with an easier fix? Truck is a manual trans, 4X4 and the shop I'm in doesn't have a very heavy trans jack or an engine stand that will support these pigs. Even considered doing it cab off? Truck is in really nice shape. Rust isn't a huge issue here in NC. The one I worked on before, I loosened the rear cab bolts, removed the front 4 and jacked the cab up enough to insert a 4x4 between the rad support & frame mounts. Don't think I removed the turbo? Can't remember if it was a manual trans but think it was?

Yea, I figured the gauge deal was overkill. It might be hard to seperate "fluid" pressure from expanding coolant/air pressure. I suppose a clear section of hose spliced in at the heater hose or degas bottle would work? I'm thinking about if you had one that didn't show a concern until the truck was driven. With a spliced in "window" you could see flow? Edit: Why couldn't you put a ball valve in your gauge used to check for excessive pressure rise at the de-gas bottle? Have the valve between the gauge & the tank, then if you close the valve and the WP is creating flow the gauge should go up, right?