ktmlew

Cool. If I had the money to spare i would grab it.

Will they allow a purchaser to update? i think it's a buy it, you own it. I have Ford & GM with the old style connector that uses a security dongle. Would like to get the rest of the bundle but at this point don't really need it.

Changed a radiator today in a van. Wasn't nearly as bad as i expected. Had a hard time getting the lower oil cooler line in but that was about it. Need a new/better tool for the spring clamps. Wanted to change the lower hose but could NOT squeeze the clamp and hold it with one hand, Old age is a bitch. I have one of the original tools with the cable but it is about shot Does anyone make a clamp tool that squeezes the clamp by turning a knob or using a ratchet? My hands/wrists just don't like squeezing and twisting.

Let me rephrase. New AM hose comes apart. I guess since i'm replacing the hose anyway no reason not to just drill a hole in it and let it drain. sometimes i overthink things. My boss wants to go through all the vehicles and change belts/hoses/diff fluid/trans service/coolant as needed. Last tech was skilled but didn't document his repairs very well. I get to start over and create a baseline. Been since the very early 90's since I had this type of situation. Just fix the trucks. Make my own decisions as long as it isn't replacing engine or trans. have several spare trucks so can put something out-of-service if necessary. Have an 06 C1500 4.3 that is leaking severely from the timing cover & oil pan. Just found some info that shows the frame cross member under the pan comes out. I completely missed it. Tunnel vision and still thinking like a flat rate tech. Hurry, hurry. Sometimes it's better to slow down. The truck has just a tick under 300k miles. I hate trying to fix oil leaks on a high mileage engine. Bandaging a bullet wound. This engine doesn't have a PCV valve. Instead has a fixed orifice where PCV would normally be. Weird. Thanks for the assist. Wasn't expecting such a quick response.

The fitting does come out of the hose. That will make it less of a bath. Slide clamp, Twist hose until it leaks and let er run. Just changing hoses as maintenance.

OK. $26.95 a year for first vehicle $16.95 each for others. Not so bad. Hose works as i thought. Hook one end of clip and roll out of groove. Not clear if you can remove the hose from the fitting. I've seen some others that are glued to the quick connect.

Working on a 2009 G Van with 4.8. How the hell are you supposed to access the lower radiator hose? No drain valve and a quick-connect on lower hose. Do you just pry the clip out and let her flood? Have no access to any technical info at this point. Working for a fleet shop. Happened REALLY quick. Only mechanic. Other guy left w/o getting much info from him. Plan to get Identifix on my dollar after things settle a bit. Just remembered you can access Alldata on a purchase one vehicle at a time. Let me see what that costs. Fleet is 90+ Chevy Pickups/Vans/Box vans.

I would check oil pressure at idle and just above?

FICM

Me three.

YES! Very common issue on that style. I was thinking of the newer intake.

^this^ Alos some engines PCV valve have an o-ring around the housing to seal it to the bore. If you don't install the o-ring it will cause issues. If the intake gasket is leaking vacuum into the crankcase the noise you hear is air being sucked past the front or rear main seal. It runs for a couple minutes until the vac gets lower than the seal can hold. Then it "farts".

Do you happen to here a weird squealing sound occasionally? Remove the oil cap and put your hand over the opening. How much vacuum pull do you feel? If it sucks your hand down, the intake gasket is blown.

Could have been done before you touched it. Or has the M/C or hydro-boost been changed? Loosen M/C bolts and see of wheels turn free. Possible pushrod adjustment issue.

Sounds like somebody put something other than brake fluid in it. Swelled all the seals. If that is what happened the cap diaphragm should be all swelled up.

I think when he replaced the injector that fixed the no-start on one bank? I was assuming it did since he moved on to replacing other parts and over-filling on oil?

Fuel pressure? There are screens "hidden" in the fuel pump assembly that get clogged. Remove them and throw them away.

There are some pictures somewhere of one of those torn down. A section of the pump that is supposed to be fixed spins in the case which diverts flow. That pushes the ball out.

Could you DL it to another drive and keep the original OS as a back-up?

Nope. Truck was sold. We were trying to fix some of the niggling things but customer wanted to take it. It be gone.

Some of the early engines had the oil filter check valve fall out. Don't remember what issue that caused other than the oil not being filtered properly. Did you have the pick-up tube loose?

You need a scanner that will communicate with the BCM.

EGR Module Communication issue. It had 3 EGR codes. Swapped in a used EGR, No change. Swapped in used EGR module (twice) and codes clear until you cycle key. When key is turned on it kicks 368. Indicates issue with Can2 circuit. Supposed to have power on pin 1, gnd pin 2, 1-4v pin 3 & 4. All readings are good. Noticed pin 1 has power at all times. Even with master switch off. Has had previous wiring repair in ECM area. Two wires over-layed to AP. Vehicle had a baro code also originally. They ran two wires straight to ECM form AP pedal and the original has a splice to send Vref to baro sensor. Easy fix for that. I am suspect of why the EGR module has constant power? Can 2 is spliced into IDM circuit from factory. We have OnCom and Navistar software. The diagrams connector view sucks bad... This is a dual drive garbage truck. You have to move the RH steering column and disconnect the shaft that runs from left to right across dogbox, to get access to rear of engine.

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-2012D-Combination-Heavy-Pliers/dp/B000RH3882

Could you spread the ring enough to get these in? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilde-Tool-10-in-Straight-Compound-Lock-Ring-Pliers-Snap-Retaining-MADE-IN-USA-/131155893946?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item1e89801eba&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0