ktmlew

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carcode,1367445,parttype,6276,d,1991_FORD_F59_7.3L_445_cubic_inch_V8_DIESEL_FI_M_Fuel_Tank_Selector_Valve.html

Local dealer, mile and a half away, needs a diesel tech. I've been out of the dealership since summer of 05. Talked to SM and was surprised he didn't blow-me-off. Have an app to fill out and turn in Tues. They do cab-off repair, you would be shocked at how many shops don't, so maybe I'll take one last stab at it? Just completely done with indy shops. They are in such a hurry to get the next vehicle in the bay they won't give you time to diag the one you are working on now. I surrender.

Some technical info here: http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-47860.html

Went to an interview. It was that or blow up my floaties...

I ran into a shop manager recently from back in 99-00 when i last had a 40 hr week guarantee. He has been managing a Precision Tune for 12 years and said his guys have been with him for most of that time. Wanted me to stop by and check out the shop and talk. I stopped on a Sat afternoon...shop was about empty. He was working the counter alone and didn't have time to talk. Said come back Tuesday as I'll be off Monday...I go in Tuesday...he's off. Shop empty and three guys sitting on stools beside their boxes at 3:00PM. They are open till 6PM. Hard to turn time when you only work 60% of the day, at least for me? Sitting here now needing to go make something happen but am just really depressed with the state of my career/the industry. Really want to sell everything and go live (homeless) on South Beach. When I run out of food try to swim to Cuba...

I am quite surprised how many guys have a 40hr guarantee. We can't get ANY in this area. Plus they want you to work 60 hrs a week.

Check charging voltage when misfire happens. There is a relay behind the dash that will drop out if voltage drops and tach will drop. I can't remember what relay it is though.

Base engine issues are becoming a more common concern as engines, both gas & diesel, last several 100k miles.

OK. Customer thinks it's still making oil. We have had the truck for 3 days, pulled transfer case and resealed it, and oil didn't move on the stick. Stupid question. Will the cp3 pump leak at the seal with the engine off? If it is leaking, will that normally cause driveability/starting issues? How do you test for a leaking cp3 seal? Pull cover over gear and use dye and a mirror? If it has to be running to leak as I assume, add dye to fuel filter, run a minute or two, then pull gear cover and see if any dye present. Customer called initially and asked for quote to replace injectors. I really should have better explained my lack of knowledge on these. It's tough to learn while working flat-rate. Are there any Coffee table type books available with tips & tricks?

The SC 3800 is a common swap, next would be the Camaro 3.4. The 84-86 fuel tank is 10 gallons, 87-88 twelve. I actually am tempted to find an 87-88 V-6 auto to resurrect. The Apple Cider Vinegar worked great to clean the rust out of the tank. I will recommend he run a tank or two of fuel through it and then drop the tank and change the filter sock. Yep...1-2-3-4-5-6 The SC 3.8 would be fun...

I've been turning bolts for better than 45 years and can't remember ever touching one of these. The drivetrain drop is really easy. Was surprised I had zero trouble getting things loose. Other than the 2-4-6 plugs.

Oh...the repairs have broken the $4K mark...car only shows 78K miles. Interior is clean as a pin. Red paint is scorched and ugly as usual for these plastic panels of this vintage.

Pontiac Fiero??? Appropriately named too, since it means what they were prone to in Italian if I recall correctly. You sir win one dirty sock! It was towed in a no start. No fuel pressure. Pump not running. Dropped tank. It was about the worst I've ever seen. Cleaned rust out by using apple cider vinegar. Worked really well. Found new sending unit on the net. It wanted to run but wouldn't quite kick off. The spark was pretty weak so pulled the dist cap and scraped the corrosion off cap and rotor, scraped some rust off pole piece, pulled and gapped the rear plugs. If fired right up but was missing on cyl 2 & 6. It had last run 5 years ago and overheated badly so was worried about head gasket issues. Ran about 10 minutes to get to 200 degrees so figured it was OK. Idle was too fast and thought timing might be set too fast. Put it in diag mode and checked timing. Boom!!!Spark plug blows out of cyl 2!!! Well half the plug. The plug had RUSTED THROUGH!!! After some thought and checking labor times recommended the engine be dropped to make access to plugs easier. It needed an alternator and rear brakes so figured it was cost efficient for the customer.Once engine was out, it was surprisingly easy, broke another plug off. Got them out with an easy-out. Ran a compression test. Had to add some oil to a couple as they were washed down but motor seems fine.Replacing dist/cap/rotor/plugs/wires/alternator/hoses/water pump/thermostat and machining rotors replaceing pads.

Whoops...

I'll take guesses on what I'm working on!

These sure are easy to work on. Would have finished it today but the connector tube o-rings didn't come with the injectors. Plus we couldn't get a valve cover gasket today. It has been running with fuel in the oil for long enough the motor is absolutely spotlessly clean inside. I didn't need any special tools. Popped the connector tubes out with a long pair of needle nose & the injectors with a couple of opposing allen wrenches. The #4 injector line was a little stubborn but finally came loose. Main problem was finding torque specs for the injector hold down bolts, connector tube nut & injector lines. Found this: Injector--89 in lbs connector tube--34 ft lbs (was 37?) Lines--18 ft lbs banjo bolts 22 ft lbs

It has over 200K miles so due for injectors. First one I've touched so looking for tips. Think I'm on the right track now with your help and the Youtube videos. I found a fuel pressure test that was really confusing apparently because it has more than one hose connection? I'll do some more searching for a picture of said tool. The test said to pinch off the hose to the gauge and see if the pressure dropped then move to return line and repeat. Didn't make sense to me at the time. You don't know what you don't know, right?

Have one that is making oil. Looking for info & tools needed to service the injectors and feed tubes. Found a video on youtube but he used the OEM style tool which is over $200.00. Any other options? I've worked on some older Cummins that you could thread a bolt into and pop them out. The 03 up is different.

He got-er-did with the Bosch pass-through box. I don't know what he was doing as the IDS should have been a no-brainer? He really doesn't have much to say. Before i started he was turning 70-90 hours a week. Now he's down to the mid-fifties and not happy. Apparently the customer diag'd the FEM as bad...

Independant shop. Not a dealer. We do have an IDS & Tech 2, and several other AM scan tools. Really nicely equipped shop, I've been out of the dealer since summer of 2005 so lost a bit of knowledge on some of this stuff. I don't even know what they are trying to fix by replacing the FEM? It has some interior panel removed but not in-the-loop on the actual concern.

I've only been at this shop for a month. Never seen them use the IDS. It's an indy shop. The other two techs are L1 Masters. I'll see what he got done in the morning. So far they haven't been too free with any advice or offering to help me with anything but I can't help myself... I cut their pay down by a third when i showed up. Not sure they are too happy about that. Is the FEM just the "newer" version of the GEM?

Have a co-worker fighting to get this done. He says he can't use the IDS as it won't work to program an FEM? He has been trying to use a pass-through device but having no luck. I will find out in the morning if he got it done as I left a little after 5pm. He is more dedicated than I am!!! He did say he's never programmed a Ford, Not sure if he means with the pass-through or a Ford period.

From the archives... Been seeing a ton of these with a leak at the lower block to block junction. I have, to date, not found any repair info on what is involved with dropping the lower block for a reseal? Is this not a recommended repair? It obviously requires removal of timing chain cover and valve covers but my concern is about any dowels at bellhousing area that prevents removal w/o trans removal? If the trans has to come out it would make dropping complete drivetrain a no-brainer IMO. Edit: a google search found some pictures. As i thought the lower block is a girdle. Pulling the motor would be the only way to guarantee a leak-free repair.

So anyone have any ideas on how you could retrofit a cabin air filter to these?

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/5305-clogged-hvac/