ktmlew

It's rare I agree with 100% of what you write...but you NAILED this one. The biggest thing I see now is what another tech said to me the other day when we were discussing the state of the repair industry. He said people now seem to feel the have "the right" to free automotive repair. People don't put VALUE on having their vehicle maintained or repaired. It's strictly an expense when it should be viewed as an investment in their continued employment...if they miss work enough times due to a broken down vehicle, they will be unemployed. The real problem is greed. Across the board greed. The manufacturers sell vehicles based on them being "maintenance free" knowing their service recommendations will likely just get the vehicle out-of-warranty. They don't care if the vehicle breaks in half 2 days after the warranty ends. not their problem. 100K mile spark plugs/coolant/trans fluid? WTF? The parts seller/builders are all about profit. Could care less if it fits or works equal to the original. Max profit is all the matters. Most techs are the same. Don't know how many times I've heard "i'm not gonna do all that" when told they had to remove something to access the part they are changing. Get a bigger pry bar or just throw a half-dozen parts at it. One of them HAS to fix it, right?

I bought a Snap On amp clamp at a pawn shop a couple weeks ago. Price was too good to pass up.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1909-8-Point-Octagon-Locknut/dp/B000LQB4EY

You have a set of these? http://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Specialties-180-LOADpro-Dynamic/dp/B004IKPUL2 I've only used them a couple times but so far they seem to work. I bought the leads and manual.

This one? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_parts/axle_nut/ford/e-450_super_duty.html

Do those still use the ratcheting nut?

I'll ask before someone else does; Year, model, engine size?

I am aboard member but don't have a Pico yet. Bought a Hantek 8 channel chinese knock-of to play with but haven't had a chance to try it out. Ordered a couple cables from Autonerdz and got them in 3 days. Pretty damn quick considering they are on the other coast. Gail Taylor PS: guess i should change my username here as i will never go back to a dealership anyway?

I would still look hard at this possibility.

Did you check the glow plug gap?

Well? Found another set of instructions? Now have to wait for vehicle to return.

OK. Do these do the window "twitch" indicating they are in program mode?

Replaced the regulator. Window stops at 3/4" from top when closed but closes fully with door open. I've tried about every initialization procedure I can find. There are 4 or 5 different "opinions" on the internet that I've found. None ever do the "window twitch" that indicates you are in the programming mode. Edit: Fuck-me-a-running...just found on Mitchell...aftermarket regulator doesn't work. Know issue. Three guys posted same result. Said Ford regulator initialized first time/every time. SHIT!!!

http://www.grainger.com/product/6WB13?cm_sp=HIO-_-HIDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ13 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00825PX52/ref=asc_df_B00825PX522902897?tag=thefind0029238-20&creative=395261&creativeASIN=B00825PX52&linkCode=asn

How many of you agree that the 100K mile recommendation is bullshit? It's a coil & converter killer IMO.

What do they do as far as a "valve job"?

Cool...er...that's hot?

You need to check flow coming OUT of heater core. If flow and coolant temp is OK you have core or blend door issues.

What about putting some type of flow meter in the heater hose to see what is actually happening? Maybe a piece of clear hose to see if air is getting pumped into the cooling system?

I've missed the reasoning for the shorter pushrods?

Well I would replace the cluster...

Don't worry, Ford will fold like a cheap suit if they bitch...then kick the claim back to the dealer! :hammer:

I would scope the crank sensor.

You would think a generator would be cheaper than a 50K truck...