CLR95

No I have not. Air bubbles on the supply or return side? I did notice an air sound coming from the fuel tank KOEO. Lift pump has good supply pressure.

Been a while since I've posted but I need some extra help. Truck keeps randomly dying. Only code I have is P120F. Truck is an early 08 with 150k. I followed the trouble shooting and everything had checked out. So when I had the truck running and viewing pids it died. FRP bounced between 7k and 12k psi. FRP Voltage was 1.5 to 1.9. VCV was 0 and PCV was 0. Truck was not running. This lasted approx a minute or 2 and then FRP went back to 50 psi and kept falling the longer it sat. The code did not reset. My question is do I have a FRP issue or do I have a HPFP harness starting to short out? I don't want to throw parts at it and hope it works. Didn't know if anyone has seen anything similar. It has only died going down the road twice. It dies at idle and while backing up more often. Makes me thinks its the pump harness but haven't seen enough of these to be confident about that decision. Thanks for your help in advance.

I agree Keith what happened with the good ol toilet paper roll? That to me seemed to work just fine behind the 6.0 liter. Maybe I will have to do some more digging to try and get some particular specs and see what exactly we are dealing with.

Hello everyone. Been quite some time since I have posted, but I am still around. As the title suggests is there any difference other than no external filter and the planetary upgrade? I am curious if one was to buy lines for a late 08 to eliminate the external filter on an early 08 if it would harm anything? Its hard in my opinion for a customer to spend $180 on an external filter that they went away with in later years. I know the internal filter numbers are different, but what else? I have always been wondering and never had a decent tranny guy to ask. Thanks in advance.

Yea turbo didn't fix it and hotline is scratching their heads so fse is being sent out. They think its mechanical I think its something electronic causing the issue but what do I know I'm just a tech. I love these new engines no one has any experience with hope it works out the customer already wants a different truck.

Well after getting the turbo off the one I have right now found it had an exhaust leak behind the wastegate arm in the exhaust housing and also noticed the exhaust housing didn't seem to be fulling seated against compressor side so got the new one in and gonna be fired up tomorrow morning. Ford engineers were not thinking with the bottom up pipe clamp. I still think engineering should sit down with the guy that works on the damn things to make sure its gonna work instead of well it fits lets put it there and worry about the rest later. Can't wait to find a new job haha.

I've got one with a P1247 for a low boost concern. Followed pinpoint for concern. Leads to turbo replacement called hotline to double check they had me run two steps on another pinpoint and if they passed replaced turbo. Gotta tear it down monday still don't feel like this is the proper repair but i guess we will see. Truck only has 1600 miles and it started acting up at the 100 mile mark or so.

I do it from a reliability stand point also. I helped a friend build a diesel pulling truck. Its a 6.0 and yes the egr is gone but the thing hardly ever sees the street. I'm young I use to be all about the smoke but I personally can't stand it anymore. Doesn't impress me any just money going out the tailpipe. The biggest problem I have is they(government) are killing the automotive industry in my opinion of course. I'm not old enough to remember the smog days and all that stuff. Do I want the air cleaner? Yes but you are killing the reliability of automobiles by doing so especially diesel trucks. They say all this global warming is caused by automobiles. Pretty sure mother nature lets off a pretty good share if not more of pollutants into the air than us humans. Are we putting caps or egr systems on volcanos? Umm nope. I'm not trying to fight but I want my six leaker to last for a long time so I did what I felt neccesary legal or not to make it do so. I'm not trying to start an argument which I prolly already have but thats just my .02. The part about hot rodding that makes me the most upset is when a customer knows what they are doing when it comes to modifying their truck and then expecting ford to pay for it. My famous saying is you have to pay to play but my service manager doesn't seem to care thats another topic all together.

I do aftermarket stuff on the side and believe firmly in egr deletes and head studs. Upgraded fuel systems are a plus also. What some of these guys don't understand is it doesn't matter what aftermarket parts you put on it comes down to maintanence on these engines. Its not good for emissions but who wants dirt going back into the engine? Thats pretty much what EGR is. I think the technology with the new motor has changed to the point where EGR won't be that big of a problem. I hope not anyway.

Well I got it off thanks guys. Actually not as bad as I thought. Took me longer to get the body off than it did the engine apart. I will have to say its better than the ambulance I did a couple months ago replacing heads on it sucked ass. Thanks again

Its an Excursion. Any tips? Got to pull the heads as it is puking bad out of the degas bottle. I got all but the third row seats pulled and then the interior part of the job should be done. Im a little nervous being my first time but after doing this pick-ups should be a piece of cake. Thanks for any input.

I know it was my own stupidity to take so long gettin after this. Had some other things in the works as well so was trying to finish those up and get this one tore back down. But I did get the front cover pulled and didn't really see anything that would cause a leak really. Re-installed with new gasket. We had a bedplate issue with a truck a couple years ago and the fse showed us where to put air into the system and check for leaks with soapy water so we did that and didn't find anything. So tomorrow we will see if it worked or not. Lesson learned i know just gotta be smart about it from here on out and go after it if i see it neccesary. Thanks fellas for the support and the smacks in the face sayin hey keep it simple stupid.

In my eyes its refuse but maybe it isn't. The writers give them certain jobs that pertain to their specialities or likings i should say. I had to show the one how to pull an egr valve if that tells you what i am dealing with. Its just frustration on my part for the fact i felt like i did get thrown under the bus and my manager has no balls. He rewards the fuck ups and punishes the guys that make actually try to do something right. So its a lose lose situation and i am just trying to hold on until i can figure something else out. I have almost two years in this shop and am still learnin and will learn til the day i retire but i do try to learn new things and this situation i have now is frustrating because it is unknown territory for me and i feel intimidated

Keith Im not mad at all just frustrated. Our lead diesel tech was gone on vacation so the burden was put on me to try and get everything done since the other two light truck techs refuse to work on anything diesel. Well i take that back the one will do a water pump or mechanical things like that but no performance diag or driveability(hes the tranny guy). The other guy just likes to do oil changes trans service fuel filters front end and brake work. And if you give him something that isn't self explanatory he doesn't know how to diag anything. Btw what I mean by light truck tech is we work on super duties up to semi's and we got both light truck and heavy truck guys. So while the gravy guy turns over 40 hours in 4 days I am banging my head against the wall trying to figure all this stuff out lucky if i even turned 20 hrs. I just hope this next week gets a little better or i might go a-wall

Well thats just fuckin fantastic. The oil is right on the front d.s. corner where the bedplate and block meet. Prolly that stupid rubber piece they lay in between the two. I already have the intake off and damn near the front cover as my boss thinks the front cover gasket is where it is. Of course first time doing this and it has to be in an e series how awesome /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif gettin my ass handed too me on time. Just adds to the great week I had spent all day friday and half of thursday figuring this thing out. Spent all day wednesday with the fse which just happened to be around the facility figuring out a 6.4(another first for me) and it needs to be tore down as it sounds like there are some short rods. Service writer was havin a hard time findin ops for diag for it just all in all shitty fuckin week even if a holiday was included.

Keith the oil was changed before I did the first repair on the oil leaks and that was last week. I added oil dye and the only spot i see it is right behind the ps pump where the gasket and block meet. Our FSE was here yesterday and told me not drive it. Said clean it off as much as possible and then let it run for 5 min and then check. I had cleaned it once and because of us driving it down the road caused it to blow to the back making it hard to find the starting point.

Just curious if anyone has seen any percarious oil leaks on the e-series. I've got an ambulance in that had all sorts of leaks found them to be coming from the top. Tore the top down replaced oil cooler gasket, and hpop cover gasket after the last tech that worked on it left me a little present. Now have a leak right behind the ps pump. Cam sensor o rings good have replaced them twice just to make sure nothing goofy. Is a front cover gasket off the wall or is it possible? Just want some other opinions since I have two service managers breathing down my neck tellin me to go ahead and to be honest i don't really wanna take the damn thing apart again. I am almost positive its the front cover gasket as the oil is not coming from the top. Thanks

I have done 5 so far. Last three I have broke even. First two were the learning experiences. I take the i/c out, unhook all the coolers and let them lay on the ground, evac the ac and out comes the radiator.. at first was disconnecting the batter cables but last time left them hooked up and laid the positive cable out of the way seemed to be fast and the customer didn't have to reset there radio or anything. The other guys in my shop think Im crazy but I enjoy doing it... its a challenge to see if I can get faster than the last time and still make sure everything is right

Autometer and Isspro both make a 100 psi electric fuel gauge for in truck use. Thought about adding that to my exhuast temp, boost, and trans temp gauges but havent done it. Autometer also makes a gauge holder as Jim is saying to mount a mechanical gauge on the cowl. I had one of those on my 95 7.3 with a high pressure oil gauge. Kinda cool got alot of looks thats for sure.

Yea they are both up and rolling. Had a dumbass attack with the 97 checked the fuses again and found the fuel heater blown and changed the fuse and heater all good. The 00 had a fuel issue. Fuel Filter was pretty nasty so changed that added some additive to fuel bowl and tank and had my sm drive the shit out of it. Let it sit outside for two days and she fired right up. Still has a slight miss but runs way better than it did before. Thanks for the help guys chalk up another learning experience for me.

Alright... checked crankcase blowby visually and it has quite a bit. Gonna run the test first thing in the morning with the gauge. Pulled the rs vc off as cyl 3 is where I found my mis fire. Started truck and noticed the injector spitting oil as if it was possibly working. Won't know 100% til I pull it. I did notice this morning when I started it cold even though in a heated shop pedal to the floor it wouldn't get over 1200rpm thought that was very odd and it took a long time before it got any better. Obviously the more heat in the cylinders the better it ran. I will check fuel in the morning. The fact these guys last changed there oil in July of last year which was only 5k on the odometer but the truck runs all the time as it is a tire service truck and doesn't help my situation at all. So after I get all the basics checked worse case scenario head needs to come off for a closer peak at what is going on if it is in fact a compression issue. The misfire is obviously real bad when cold but still there when warm. So I don't know I am working on it thanks for the help guys. This is a learning experience to say the least and I feel way more comfortable with the 7.3's than I do with the 6.0's.

Truck #2: I forgot to add that I was looking at the pids while cranking. IPR comes up to over 40% and icp is in the 2300-2400 range and rpm is around 150. And mind you it acts like it wants to fire you here a few cylinders hit and hit before it deciedes to run. I did put new batteries in it this morning. Truck sat in the shop and it started still had no power as if there isn't any heat in the cylinders. I did test the glow plugs at the harness and they all checked good highest reading was 1.3 ohms. Going to check crankcase pressure and compression after lunch. Also while checking compression I might check each glow plug individually to double check they are ok. Truck #1: I completely neglected the thought of the fuel heater shorted. I will get it back in the shop and take a look at it. I will recheck the fuses and see if any are missing. I have been burned by a pinpoint before Jim thats why I don't feel confident its the pcm. I have one of the way but I am going to check other things in the mean time. VREF was low if I recall don't have the sheet in front of me that I wrote all my stuff down on. Thanks for the words of wisdom Jim with experience comes more thorough diag's and I wish I had both but for now I am learning as they come. Thanks again

Well I just thought I would post on here and see if you guys have any other ideas other than what I am thinking. The first truck is a 97. Brought in for fuel gelling issue. Checked everything out changed filters let truck sit out in cold for a day and it ran fine. Customer was on the way to get the truck started the truck let it idle (well my SW did start it anyways) said the truck got real loopy and then died. Now there is no wait to start light water in fuel light nothing. Truck cranks just no start. Went through all the fuses found nothing. Have no communication with the PCM through the genstar. Went through pinpoint for no communication and it has lead me to replace the pcm. Now is there something I am missing. I have doubled and triple checked everything I can think of and still nothing. Am I on the right track with the PCM? Case number 2. 00 truck used for a tire repair facility. Truck does not get serviced as it should. Problem is it will not start when cold. Even in a heated shop over night if not plugged in the truck will not start. So i go through the basics oil is nasty black changed that, haven't checked the fuel filter, glow plug relay works, batts are junk, did an amp draw on the glow plugs and they are pulling 180, checked gps through harness and the highest reading was 1.2 ohms. It does have a cylinder mis firing but I don't think it has anything to do with it not starting. Now tomorrow I am pulling the v.c.'s off and gettin a closer look. Plan on checking the gp's individually to make sure resistance is within spec. Have also thought about running a compression test good idea? It smokes white during cranking just no heat to light it. Anything else I should look at while I am in there. I think I am on the right track and have been thinkin bout what Jim says in understanding what is going on and why and how and just curious if anyone else has any input... still green in the game but am trying to learn all I can... thanks guys and sorry for the book.

I have only seen a 7.3 runaway after turbo replacement and an innercooler that didn't get cleaned out. Wasn't a bang at all just went from scream to nothing and then devistation under the drivers side head. A different experience to say the least

Your exactly right about NOS thats another reason on top of adding power is cleaning up the fuel. Many diesel dragsters are running nos and the majority of them have a haze coming out of the tailpipe and thats about it. And Im talking about diesel trucks not rails because they are running 12 valve cummins and we all know those things smoke like a freight train. Not too bad when you have garden hose size injectors pouring fuel into the cylinders. Tony I don't know if your buddy will ever see 27mpg and if he does that is fantastic. I run a tuner on my truck that shuts off the egr valve and I like it for the fact I won't have an egr issue and yes Jim its against the law but in my opinion it is better for my engine and no I don't see anything more than 20mpg. A six liter turbo can actually handle a decent amount of fuel. On the high setting for me it will smoke at first but turn into mainly a haze at wide open throttle. Hell big trucks smoke at the start but clean up soon after so whats the difference. Id be curious to know how much of a difference there is with the egr valve on and the egr valve off when it comes to emissions. Maybe jz can find that out for us? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/popcorn.gif