Jeff_

Well, I cold started it this morning and all was good, no smoke, and had much more power. It's amazing what working glow plugs and properly adjusted linkage can do. I ran the KOER again after my road test, and the first time it passed. I ran it again and the second time it failed with the P0476 again. Time to drop back 30 and punt. Thanks for all the help guys! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Yup, Static EBP-MAP-Baro all within .3psi of 14.2 EBP does increase with acceleration EPR linkage does move during a KOER test, however I don’t know if it actually makes a full sweep or not, nor do I know if it’s supposed to during a KOER, and I will add that with the engine off, it is all the way open (tang against its stop), but while running it is slightly off the stop, but not nearly closed. As of now, the linkage is adjusted properly because I just did it myself per the instructions in the pedestal tsb… It takes 10 pounds of force to cause the .010 feeler gauge to drop from between the tang and the stop which is spec. I found the ssm listed below. It states the EBP should open when the accelerator pedal is depressed, but based on my test drive this morning it sure didn’t feel like that was happening. The truck just fell on its face. As far as the smoke is concerned, I’m hoping that having 8 working glow plugs and a working intake air heater will alleviate that part. I’ll find out tomorrow. The truck runs beautifully once it warms up, but I will check the operating temp tomorrow to see if the thermostat is operating properly. Quote: 16697 1994-2003 F-SUPER DUTIES, 1995-2003 ECONOLINE AND 2000-2003 EXCURSION 7.3L DIT ENGINE MAY EXHIBIT LOWER POWER WHEN COLD, AND AN AIR RUSHING NOISE NORMAL OPERATION - EXHAUST AIR RUSH NOISE AND LOWER POWER. SOME 1994-2003 F- SUPER DUTIES, 1995-2003 ECONOLINE AND 2000-2003 EXCURSION WITH 7.3L ENGINE MAY EXHIBIT LOWER POWER WHEN COLD AND AN AIR RUSHING NOISE. THE TURBO CHARGER EXHAUST IS RESTRICTED BY THE EBP TO HELP INCREASE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE QUICKER FOR CAB HEAT. THIS IS CONTROLLED BY THE PCM & THE EBP REGULATOR LOCATED IN THE TURBOCHARGER PEDESTAL. THE EBP DEVICE WILL OPEN WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL IS DEPRESSED CAUSING EXHAUST BACK PRESSURE TO INCREASE. WHEN EXHAUST BACKPRESSURE DECREASES OR THE VEHICLE IS AT A STEADY STATE THE EBP REGULATOR CAN/WILL ACTIVATE THE EBP DEVICE AGAIN EVEN DURING HIGHWAY DRIVING AS LONG AS THE EOT TEMP IS BELOW SPECIFICATIONS. PCM CONTROLLED ON THE FOLLOWING PARAMETERS: IAT BELOW 10C(50F) & EOT BELOW 70C(158F) EFFECTIVE DATE: 03/17/2003 In other interesting news, I Googled this problem and found that not only are there many people experiencing these concerns, but there exists an entire array of aftermarket devices which have been developed to defeat the EPR system. CLICK HERE And scroll down to the last 6 items. Although they won’t show up in time to help me, I did place such an order from that site, so the next time I have a 7.3 with a similar concern I can experiment. (Insert Jim bitching here) /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grampy-jim.gif Now however, there is another issue. This vehicle is equipped with a junkyard engine, so I don’t really know if the PCM calibration is actually correct for the specific 7.3 in this truck anyway. I found a list of calibration tear tag numbers and their descriptions for 99 model year trucks, and there are calibrations for “warm winter” and “cold winter” package trucks. Does anyone know if the “warm winter” package is simply a non EPR equipped truck, and if so, would blind flashing it with a “warm winter” calibration deactivate EPR and eliminate my problem???????? Keep the input coming fellas, my brain hurts as I prepare for battle tomorrow /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif

I have already reflashed the pcm and the code still sets, the only aftermarket thing I found was a K&N air filter. I'm sure I've seen these codes on 7.3's in the past, and never really figured out the root cause so punting on this one definitely crossed my mind. I've been putting extra effort in to this one though, because it was sent over from the Other Ford store in my dealer group after they repeatedly failed to figure out what's going on. (The owner of the truck actually thinks his truck is at the other dealership 30 miles away /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eeeesh.gif) I spent all morning on it and found several problems ie: 5 of the 8 glow plugs are open, the intake air heater element is open. I'm sure that replacing these things will at least improve the low power cold condition of this truck, but I'm kinda under the microscope on this one, and our sister store is depending me to put out their fire discretely - so my stress level is pegged on max. When I cold drove it this morning... besides the massive amounts of smoke, it just felt like the ebp wasn't opening like it is supposed to when the throttle was pressed, so I'm worried about that due to these ebp related codes that keep setting. It runs fine when warm. I'll let you guys know how it cold starts and runs tomorrow, but till then, if you guys have any other suggestions I'm all ears. Thanks, ~Jeff

Well I've got one from another dealer that gave up on it after replacing just about everything. It is a 99 F350 7.3, and I have most of the problems figured out, but I have a hard fault P0476 (exh pressure control valve range/performance) and a continuous code P0478 (exh pressure control valve high input) The previous dealer already threw the following parts at it: injectors, pedestal, ebp sensor, ebp tube, used engine, and on, and on. I've been following the PPT for the P0476, up to-and including removal of turbo and pedestal to inspect the butterfly valve and linkage adjustment. The adjustment was way off, but I corrected it and reinstalled everything. Guess what, I still have the same hard fault P0476 /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif My ebp readings seem normal, the valve moves during the KOER, but I'm running out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated.

I wanna know what "ENABLE DOOM" is too. Perhaps it loads the old Doom video game so you can spend a few minutes shooting zombies as stress relief. Or perhaps it starts the vehicles "AUTO DESTRUCT" timer... Which may come in quite handy some times /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif

I got one today with 65,000 miles. My very first DPF problem actually. I checked the online warranty coverage and it's still covered by the emissions warranty. I have one ordered for tomorrow, and my fingers are crossed that Ford will pay without much fuss. I remember a Broadcast message stating that Ford definitely wants the used DPF's returned... I wonder if a FAD, or even FoMoCo intends to clean and repackage it as a "reman DPF" ???

I don't know if this is what you're dealing with, but you may want to check out THIS ARTICLE (Thanks Keith /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif)because it is a very easy test to do, and will at least rule some things out. It seems the early build 03's (prior to the injector clevis improvement) are more susceptible to this problem, I had two in two weeks. Although mine both exhibited a miss on at least 1 cylinder at any RPM, it got noticeably worse at higher rpm's...And they both made a TON of smoke. If this is your problem you would be well served to recommend replacing the entire bank of injectors.

Here is a new link to it:

The 0v raises a red flag in my mind. Do you have 5V VREF at the EBP if you back-probe it? If not, you may have another sensor that uses the same VREF shorting it out. It seems like 04's had the most harness issues in my experience... I'm thinking either VREF is shorted by another sensor (or in the harness), or you have an open/high resistance in harness for the EBP VREF or Signal ckts. At least you know the sensor ground is good. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/tomato.gif

Quote: what do you need the FRDHM15 adapter for? This allows you to get a torque wrench on the hp pump gear bolt, which you can't get a socket on because the rear engine cover is in the way.

CLICK HERE Dave, could you post a picture of it?

Go to the Rotunda RTTP page and click "featured tools" it's right there. Product Details for RTTP-6.4L-KIT GearWrench 6.4L Torque Adapter Kit RTTP-6.4L-KIT ROTUNDA 1 - GearWrench 10mm/12mm half-moon shaped ratcheting wrench. 1 - GearWrench 11mm/13mm half-moon shaped ratcheting wrench. 1 - 11mm allen head socket, 3/8 drive. 1 - 12mm allen head socket, 3/8 drive. 1 - 10mm to 1/4 drive GearWrench socket adapter. 1 - 10mm 12 point deep socket, 1/4 drive. $79.95 NOTE: You may also want to pick up a Snap-On FRDHM15 because it's easier to torque the hp pump gear with this, not to mention easier for calculating the proper torque.

Sweet, If you get a chance could you post a picture of the cavitation so those who haven't seen it before know what it looks like?

Some 6.4's have had a problem with cavitation behind the water pump allowing oil and coolant to mix. Usually when this happens you will find coolant in the oil as well. If you drain the oil and some coolant runs out you'll prolly be doing a front cover replacement. I guess I wouldn't rule out the oil cooler either, but on a 6.4 with this concern I'd start by pulling the water pump and taking a close look.

Don't worry, In Fords eyes it's a re-buildable core. They will stitch the block back together, give it a fresh coat of paint, and turn it in to a Ford Quality Reman. It can't be any worse than some we've received already.

Don’t worry Jim, Brad and I still love you. I would point out just for the sake of “messin with Saskwatch,” That a whole lot of engineers signed off on the 6.0 in 2003 – and since then we have not only been made the scapegoats for their mistakes, but we have been fed a steady diet of Ford authorized “bitch fixes,” zip ties, rolls of cloth tape, and crimp wiring connectors since day 1. Your point about customer perception is well taken though my friend. So I guess a good rule of thumb that applies to everything is this: If you wouldn't do something to your own truck - don't do it to a customers truck. If we live by this philosophy we'll all do just fine /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

did it run away? Or was this one "enhanced" with aftermarket goodies?

I'd be looking for a different employer at that point. FYI, you can actually fix those broken radiator nipples by grinding it flush with the radiator tank, drill it out with a 21/64 bit, and tap the hole with a pipe thread tap. Then just get a $2 threaded brass pipe about 1.5'' long from the plumbing dept at your local hardware store, and thread it in with some thread sealer. The hose will slide over the brass pipe and clamp on just like it used to with the plastic nipple, you'll never even notice it. The brass nipple is actually more durable than the plastic one that was there to begin with, so it's not hackery...it's a "hardware enhancement update."

Bruce, that is the best avatar I've ever seen /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif

Inferred EP is currently the strategy on 03 engines. Actual EP is used on 04 and newer.

I believe it is the coolant passages in the oil cooler that become restricted, and I base this on absolutely nothing. Just kidding... The latest tsb has us hook up the Radkit to vacuum test the coolant aspect of the cooler, and see if the needle on the vacuum gauge moves indicating any restriction as one of the steps in the diag. As far as what is actually causing the restriction is anyone's guess. Prolly combustion soot being pushed into the cooling system through the blown head gaskets. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif Hey, it sounds good on paper eh? You'll never hear the "combustion soot" explanation from Ford though. Such an explanation would only serve to justify the acts of shoddy technicians (like Jim) who repair these with the "full meal deal," and we can't have that now can we? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Hotline told me that a restricted oil cooler can actually be the root cause of an egr cooler failure. This is because the extra heat can be enough to cause the solder joints inside the egr cooler to melt. Oil temp and coolant temp are supposed to be pretty close when everything is operating normally. If you get a truck where EOT is substantially hotter than ECT under load (25 degrees is max spec) you need to replace the oil cooler. More than half of the trucks I've repaired for coolant overflow have needed oil coolers as part of the repair. And lets not forget oil coolers can have other problems besides restrictions. They can also leak internally and fill the cooling system with oil. And don't forget to thoroughly clean the new oil cooler before installing it. There are other threads on this site to explain why /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif Actually here they are: CLICK HERE AND CLICK HERE

Quote: does anyone know what the "W" means? Would that be "Winter"?... or perhaps "Wiener" in Ralph's case /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

Wow 8.67 BILLION. That's a whole lot of un-necessary 6.0 repairs we've been doing. Cmon guys, shape up. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

I was just thinking, if you run out of ideas in the HP system, you may want to check the charging system. It seems I've had more than a few alternators with shorted diodes lately, especially now that it's hot. Some of them have similar symptoms where if all they do is idle they cant keep the batteries charged, and once system voltage drops below a set point it all shuts down. They develop enough of a surface charge to crank over for a while but not restart. I like to scope them with the ids VMM and look at tsb 06-19-12 to compare the pattern with the example pics. Just hooking up a volt meter to the batteries won't find it. I've probably had 6 of these this summer so far on F series. Every one I do gets the 140 Amp 6C2Z-10346-DA high output alternator weather they were equipped with it originally or not. There is only about a $10 price difference the last time I checked. If this is what you find you may want to think real hard before re-using the batteries...they don't seem to last very long after exposure to AC voltage.