Jeff_

Quote: Rotunda Cross Reference Search Enter Current Number, Past Number, Description of a tool or enter a TKit name. TKit(s) that tool 303-1268 is in. TKIT-2006SD-F 1 tool(s) matching '303-1268' Current Tool Number Past Tool Number Description 303-1268 303-1268 EGR COOLER TEST PLATES Yes they work, and according to my Rotunda cross reference search, the 6.0 and 6.4 egr cooler test plates are the same tool, and are found in the 6.4 TKIT

Quote: Road Test Setup And Observations: Install the IDS PVT, or Rotunda Pressure Adapter Kit 014-00761, or equivalent. (Figure 4) - Article 08-11-3 I think 014-00761 is just a regular cooling system pressure tester which is why they say "or equivalent" I've always used my Matco one without any problems for that test, I just pull the radiator adapter off of it and hook up the rubber hose of my tester to the cooling system nipple to monitor actual cooling system pressure under load. Check your tool room for the 3 red boxes labeled "TKIT-2006SD-FLM 6.4L" The egr cooler test plates are in one of those. They are not just for the 6.4, they work equally well on the sicko. If you don't have the 6.4 tool kits, the tool number to order the EGR cooler test plate set is: 303-1268 and dealer cost is $51.40 plus tax and shipping.

Yup, had the same thing myself. You can replce it through the drivers wheel opening if you remove the inner fender. It still sucks really bad, but it is possible. Don't forget to order new clamps. And if you don't already have moon wrenches, I strongly recommend them. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/puke.gif

I agree with everything that has been said. DPFE sensors are far more common than plugged ports, but both do occur. Check DPFE voltage with the key on / engine off. Static DPFEGR voltage should be around 1.0V, If you see it stuck around .15 volts or higher than 1.3v, it is usually shorted from water that migrates into it from the exhaust system. The updated sensor actually has a vent in the top of it to prevent this in the future. Often times if you tap the old sensor in your hand you will get water out of it. Think of it kind of like a TP sensor where 1.0V is supposed to equal a closed egr valve, and the number will go up proportionally with with the opening of the egr if the system is working properly. Except, instead of it being a potentiometer, the DPFE calculates flow by measuring the delta pressure, or pressure difference across a fixed orifice. Since you say the engine runs smooth at idle, we can assume that there is no egr flow at idle (nor should there be). So if the Voltage is something other than very close to 1V, then I'd suspect a DPFE sensor(or 9J460 for the parts guys). If you do get 1v or something very close to it During KOEO or idle, then the code may be set if the PCM doesn't see enough change when EGR is commanded. The way to test this is monitor your DPFEGR pid with the engine running at idle, and either command the valve open with a scan tool, or just use a hand vacuum pump...The DPFEGR voltage should increase with the opening of the valve, and the engine should stumble. If the engine doesn't stumble - Then I would be looking at the EGR ports for carbon blockage...and not just the port in the intake that the valve mates to, also the passage seen only upon removing the throttle body. P.S. If you are looking for where this infamous DPFE sensor is located on your mom's 01 Sable, It is either a little black tube mounted one behind the upper plenum (near the ignition coil). OR some of these Duratec motors had a larger Aluminum or Plastic one bolted to a bracket below the throttle body and can be seen if you remove the air snorkel tube that connects to the throttle body. Basically just find the egr exhaust tube, and on it, are 2 small appendages that each have a silicone hose that connects to the sensor. P.P.S. Your post was a bit vague, so it's worth mentioning there are other systems that will set codes pertaining to flow or percentages...The evaporative emissions system can set purge flow codes, if you have an air injection system it can set flow related codes, and you can also have catalyst efficiency threshold codes. The advise I gave you is for the EGR system only, so if you have a P0401,P0402,P0404,P0405,P1400 we're good. If however it is a different code than the aforementioned, then you may need some entirely different advise.

Ohh, automotive rack...Your post title is misleading. I was hoping this one was about freshly enhanced sweater puppies /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Finally!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

Check this out: Dually Buddy I haven't bought one yet, but I'm thinking about it.

Check the underhood body grounds. I've had a couple get really rusty and cause similar concerns. They are located near both front strut towers. I hope this helps.

This might be totally out in left field (I usually am). But I'm wondering - If the viscous coupling always diverts about 35% of the engines torque to the front T-Case flange, and you remove the shaft that transmits that torque to it's respective wheels, Aren't you then left with only 65% of the torque being utilized to actually propelling the vehicle. And if so, wont that 35% efficiency loss end up being worse for fuel economy than what the extra drag of the front driveline causes in the first place?????

Quote: Oh, and my girlfriend has a Ford. So...Who wears the pants, and who wears the skirt then?????????? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

Yup, sounds like an IDM to me too. Something to think about though: They don't usually die...They usually get killed by something. I've had a few fail as a result of water intrusion, chafed wiring at the left valve cover, chafed wiring near the vc connectors, a shorted injector, and also a couple fried from loose uvc connections. "Causality" is the word of the day. So for everyone reading this who will inevitably deal with one of these in the future, I recommend following Robert's example, and at least make an effort to locate a root cause. An ounce of prevention may be worth a $1100 pound of SPW IDM cure later. Experience is not the best teacher, it's the most expensive one. Ask me how I know /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cover.gif

On the bright side though, it's an excuse to use the FIRE WRENCH /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif

I've done a few 5.4 exhaust manifold leaks. Be sure to order a set of new studs and nuts because some will break. They usually break flush with the manifold, so once the manifold is slid off you can usually grab the remaining stud with a vice grips and finesse them out with the help of a torch.

The piston? I'm pretty sure it's Stephen's ash tray /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif I'm told the rest of the world is his trash can too /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif Just kidding buddy, how did you manage to actually get the valve out???

In response to: Poster: kellyf Subject: Re: Goodyear truck cab on engine removal Quote: I went down to local tool place and bought an engine leveler and sling,but it is not wide enough.Does anyone have a suggestion for a low price sling? I dealt with this very question myself a few years back. I found OTC makes some beefy diesel engine levelers, but they are very cost prohibitive. My solution to this was to find a nice long cheap leveler, and BEEF IT UP!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif Here are some pics of my creation. This leveler is one I found on ebay for about $40 (Thats like $32 Canadian now days). It was big enough, but it had a fatal flaw in that the hoist hook mounting location was a very weak link, and consisted of basically a piece of rebar bent into a loop and welded to the sleeve. I cut that wimpy thing off, and replaced it with a one piece chunk of 3/8 steel, which I heated with the fire wrench and bent snugly around the slider. Then I welded it solid to the slider in order to maintain full functionality, and drilled a hole for a heavy duty bolt to secure a 3500 lb swivel. Then I replaced the supplied chains with some nice long heavy duty chain from my local hardware store. The rest of it was already built like a class 3 trailer hitch and needed no further beefing. I like to over-build things /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif Obviously in the case of Econoline bodies this won't do any good and you'll need to use the special Rotunda crane adapter. But For F Series - This thing provides much more control, and all of my co workers borrow it frequently. In fact, one guy just used it to replace an IDI 7.3 in a boom truck. I've lifted many a 6.0 out and in with this, and had no need to remove the turbo or up pipes from the engine (I remove the body first of course). In fact, I usually leave it attached to the engine when I do a bedplate reseal, it just rolls right over with the engine on the stand, and doesn't get in my way at all.

Um... actually I have heard of things like this. It seems a lot of people are having high pressure pump failures due to contaminated new oil coolers. The factory which builds the cooler housing, first makes a mold out of a sand/oil mixture, then they dust the mold with a white flashing powder prior to pouring the aluminum...this allows for easy separation of the mold once the cast is finished. They apparently just break the mold off and call it good, rather than cleaning the residual powder from the casting process. Most of the new oil coolers that I have replaced, still had the white powder residue stuck to the underside which can be cleaned with brake cleaner and your finger. If left in the cooler, this stuff will shred high pressure pumps, and causes all kinds of pain. If you end up finding this to be the root cause, hopefully you can get Ford assistance on it. I feel for you buddy /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif It's things like this that inspired my high school shop teacher to come up with the brilliant line that I am currently using for a signature. Ahhh, Mr. Frye... Those were the good old days, back when I was surrounded by women my age, and didn't have a mortgage!!!

Quote: I guess I have to go to the older program, Anyone know how to do that? If he has an actual chip plugged into the pcm - unplug it and make sure the pcm isn't wrecked. If he just programed the pcm with an aftermarket calibration, you may need to do a "blank path" reflash. This is done by starting a new ids session with the ign key in the off position. When the ids can't make communication it should give you the option to check for a blank pcm. leave the key off and choose yes. when It still cant communicate it should give you the option to type in the vin number to manually identify the vehicle. Once you do so, go into module programming and choose programmable module installation. It will go through a series of having you turn the key on and off to try to identify the pcm part number...IGNORE THESE PROMPTS. The IDS, upon failing to identify the pcm will ask you to manually enter the pcm tear tag or part number. At this point turn the key on and type in the pcm number. It should do a PMI at this point based on the information you manually typed in. With IDS software version changes the procedure may not be exactly like I stated, but it should be similar. You may also need to manually type in as built data after doing this too. Now there is an option for this under module programming, and you just need to get the data off of PTS to manually enter. As far as the no communication I have dealt with a few. The most recent was last week when I had one that the fusible link junction mounted on the drivers inner fender (near the air cleaner box) had corroded to the point where it lost continuity and EVERYTHING went dead. (This was an intermittent problem at first, but eventually became quite the hard fault). Other causes for no communication/glow plug light that I've experienced: EP sensors, MAT sensors, Fuel heaters(this one should blow a maxi fuse), but basically any VREF sensor has the ability to do this. If you back probe something with a voltmeter and find your VREF is something other than 5V, start unplugging VREF sensors according to the EVTM until you find your problem. If that still doesn't find it, look for a harness chafe (like the drivers valve cover). But don't forget the basics...battery connections, voltage drop test body/engine grounds, amp test the pcm power and ground circuits with a bulb or other actual load. check the dlc wiring ect, you know, the basics!!! I hope this gives you some ideas Tony

Quote: Probably 90% of the guys on here would dink around with it, at least a little bit, Jim /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif THEN box it back up and return it /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif Aaron, Did you just accuse Jim of being incapable of fixing a toaster?????????? You've got a bigger set than Larry's bumper /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

Quote: I did notice when performing KOER test the engine smooths out. I had something similar a few years ago. I noticed that when I pulled up the power balance test and took active control of the injectors (without actually shutting any off) the engine would smooth out. When I called hotline with this information they came back and told me to suspect a damaged crank tone ring tooth. Sure enough that's what it was. The PCM and FICM are constantly calculating cylinder contribution based on the crank signal and compensating for weak injectors by varying each one's individual duty cycle. When you take active command of the injectors during a power balance test by pushing the pound sign, (or whatever the button looks like now) - this compensation strategy is shut off and each injector is given the same duty cycle. If you try this and your problem goes away, I would use the oscilloscope function and look at the crank signal, if it's glitchey, then remove the crank sensor and look through the hole with an inspection mirror (if possible)while turning the engine by hand to carefully inspect each tone ring tooth for any nicks. If however, the active control of the injectors doesn't have any effect on the way it runs, then disregard.

+1 /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/popcorn.gif Come on Jim, we live for this /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif

Quote: Aren't the Driveshafts indexed now???? I thought when we had a trainer from Ford in that he stated that the shafts had to be installed with the correct index or there would be vibration problems. Excellent question Larry, as it happens to be fresh in my mind! Yes indexing is very important. When you remove a driveshaft that you are going to reinstall later, it is a good idea to make a paint mark on the pinion flange and the yoke so that you can reassemble it in the same position to avoid any balance issues, especially now that drivelines are "system balanced". Driveshaft indexing also relates to a much more important issue...the indexing of the u-joints on shafts where there is a spline between the joints. The time a technician would have to be cautious in this regard, is if he were to do something like a center support bearing replacement where you have to take apart a splined multi-section shaft to do the job. If you reassemble the shaft in any old spline-clock position you can run into big problems if the rear joint isn't "in phase" with the front joint. This is because the operating angles through which the joints operate, actually cause the shaft to speed up and slow down twice per revolution. If the joints are "clocked" in sync with each other, these speed changes cancel each other out and there is no problem. If however a multi section driveshaft is taken apart along a spline joint, and then reassembled so the joints aren't clocked identically, these speed changes don't cancel out and ultimately cause a harsh wind up condition. Since Keith's driveshaft was replaced as an assembly I doubt his problem had anything to do with to do with being out of "phase"...unless of course the guy at the factory who built the shaft was clueless about the meaning of Phase. By the way, the operating angles of the front and rear joints have to be within a degree of each other, otherwise the cancellation effect is compromised. This is why, if you are doing a lift on a truck, it is preferable to do a Body lift rather than a suspension lift - this way you don't risk changing the driveline angles. Any Questions? Good!!! I had to sit through a 3 day NVH class to learn the concept in this post /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif Actually here is some more info on the subject Driveline Info

Nice find /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif

Is it an 04.25 with the icp in the valve cover, If so you may also need a new connector (5c3z 12224 a) for a pin fit issue they had and even recalled for a while. Also did you check to see if it has the latest calibration with the inductive heat strategy??? I've seen that fix a lot of cold drivability issues.

TSB 08-07-6 has the procedure to use the new tool. It involves using loctite to attach a pin in place of where the center electrode was, and then once the pin is bonded to the porcelain, it can be extracted with the pulling rig.

With as Anal as we all know he is about such things, I would have to believe what he meant by his comment - is that the variables involved in using a torque "stick"... such as the vast variances in torque provided by different impact guns, and variances in air pressure applied to them, simply doesn't cut the mustard. As such, he probably prefers an actual torque "wrench". Either that, or he just happens to be an old enough, crotchety enough, Canadian curmudgeon, - that his elbow actually clicks when when the proper torque is achieved with a breaker bar. And in his case, I would actually believe it. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif Speaking of being "anal" and "cutting the mustard"... At least his co-workers can be thankful that it isn't a different bodily noise that indicates the proper torque has been met. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif I suppose enough Canadian Bacon could cause erroneous readings too. What is also quite believable, is that you could probably contact the Canadian Ministry of Weights and Measures and have them pull his elbow certified calibration records for the last 20 years. It's fun to stir the pot!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/popcorn.gif