Bruce Amacker

What altitude are you at? It has a large effect on comp readings.

IH has a test for this, it involves pulling the EOT/EOP out and putting a fitting in with a short hose and a shutoff valve. Run the truck until hot (if possible) and pull a sample from the hose while at WOT. If it looks like foamy root beer it's no good, it should be solid oil. It's more yellow in color than brown. PS Anti foaming oil additive Fleetrite/Navistar PN CH1824392 PS When I've seen aeration, it's accompanied by an ICP that swings wildly from low to high because it can't keep up. PPS It sounds like the pan is pushed in and starving the pickup tube. Is the pan squashed on the bottom?

What causes the impeller to break like that, any theories?

I've had several students tell me their "drivers" have busted plastic pans in the field. Seeing how the core support and axle are lower than the pan it makes me think they were really bajaing in the forest to get tree branches or something poked up in there to break the pans. If you're romping a $50K truck that hard you deserve what you get. Anyway, as far as RTV goes, this is 7.3 days all over again. Bone dry, brakeclean, let it set up, nothing new here. At least it's a lot easier than a 7.3 if you have to do it twice.......

Edited.

Sears has a DC clamp on ammeter that's accurate down to 100ma or so for $60 list, that resolution is fine for your needs. When clamping the leads of a draw it's important to only have one of the leads in the jaw of the meter- if you have both power and ground leads your reading will cancel out and show zero. Good Luck!

That's 10-20 times what the parasitic draw should be, use an amp clamp on wiring to find what's drawing, don't forget possibilities of a shorted alt and other items that can cause draw. Checking voltage drop across fuses is better than pulling them out, you'll get a small vdrop on the fuse terminals if the circuit is pulling any current. Call the cust and ask them if they keep it plugged into shore power while parked, many times there's a refrigerator (for meds) and other things that are alive 24/7 and they plug them in to 110v while parked to keep the bats up. Good Luck!

In addition to this good info, MD/HD trucks have a lot more aftermarket modules that ride on the bus than LD trucks do. Fuel minders, GPS systems, maintenance modules, QuallComm style modules, etc are all a nightmare. Many times the truck will run and drive fine without DTCs but the scan tool won't communicate or drops out. If your scan tool has a "sniffer" function that lists modules on the bus, get familiar with what's normally there so you can identify aftermarket modules quickly. Diag is pretty straight forward- disconnect extra modules until normal communication returns. In an extreme case you may need to overlay the J1939 wires to the ECM and run them directly to the scan tool connector so that only the ECM is on the bus. Also, on IH's, if you pull the ECM power fuse, ID the in/out terminals, and run a jumper wire to the output of the fuse it powers the ECM with the key off. This is a quick way to isolate the ECM and leave all the other modules asleep for a tough bus diag. FWIW, J1939 (pins C and D in the round 9 pin Deutsche) should be about 2.45v on the low side, 2.55v on the high side, and 60 ohms across the terminals with the batteries disconnected. J1708 (pins F and G) are .1 to 1v on the low side and 3-4.5v on the high side. The voltage numbers for low side and high side added together are generally 5v. Obviously, Keith's 9v was way off base. Aftermarket modules are #1 on the hit list for bus corruption problems but for OEM modules it's a corrupted ABS followed by a corrupted TCM. Unplug or depower these when fighting a bus issue on the J1708 or J1939 busses. Here's a good example I ran across the other day- a 2010 IH DT with tons of extra modules present. Two ECMs, Navigation module, Electric Propulsion, two scan tools, exhaust brake (not equipped), etc. I know this truck fairly well and we've torn it apart trying to find the aftermarket modules without success. It does have issues with the scan tool- not doing what it's told, perhaps caused by the extra modules. If we power the ECM directly, only it shows up in the sniffer.

Put an amp clamp on the power wires and unplug the IDM, and see if the fuse still overamps, then plug it back in. Look for rubbed harnesses, they are common on this truck, especially near the LR of the engine. There's also a 12 pin connector on the LR of the engine which feeds power/ground to the IDM along with data circuits, it's known well for intermittent opens, I can send you a PDF of the engine schematic if you need it. The IDM relay is in the underhood fuse box, I'm sure you know, if the decal on the lid is missing or unreadable let me know and I'll ID the relay for you. I'd unplug the IDM, unplug the IDM relay and put a jumper wire across it, and an amp clamp on the jumper wire. Yes, visually the IDM is identical to the 6.0 FICM. Too bad you're not closer, I think I have a known good ECM/IDM for this truck.......

Back on track- after the coldest February in Cleveland history, we are forecasted to be 40F on Tuesday- the first time in SIX WEEKS that our high temp will be above the average high temp for the day. There's more snow on the ground than I can remember in a decade or more and when it melts we're gonna flood.

Wow is right. Who put the green coolant in it?

BTW, when it says, "Record these numbers", what do you do with them? Tech Support uses them as DTC's? Can we use them for anything or get a DTC description? I just closed and restarted and it was fine.

Funny you mention that. I updated mine last week and got a couple of Testmans this week........

Labor Information Skill Level Mfg. Warranty Standard Oil Cooler, Engine Replace B 7.0 9.8 NOTE With Dual Alternators, Add B 0.3 0.4 Labor Information Skill Level Mfg. Warranty Standard EGR Cooler Replace Cooler B 6.6 8.8 NOTE With Dual Alternators, Add B 0.3 0.4 Alldata gives 13.6 warranty time and 18.6 CP plus dual alts PLUS TIME FOR BEING 10 YEARS OLD. Keith and everyone is right on with this one, way too little time.

-30 in Toronto is probably C, not F, but it's still f'ing cold. Cleveland is on schedule to have the coldest February ever with records being kept since the 1800's. I think they said our average temp has been 15F this Feb. Seeing more subzero than I ever remember and have lots of snow on the ground- it won't melt and there's nowhere left to put it. It's above the mailboxes at the street. Brrr!

I don't like to get too involved with my student's tech support because it can consume all of my time, but this is a good customer. It's a 2006 6.0 no start, P2552, new CMP, new CKP, harnesses overlaid between CKP/CMP and PCM, PCM replaced and programmed, SYNCs won't change from no to yes cranking. I searched DTS with no luck. Do you guys have any experience with this code? FICM harness maybe? Thank You!

That wedge was crazy expensive the last I checked a long time ago, I use a pair of 4" tie wraps to lock the connector together. I have pics and the wedge PN at home but not with me now......

That was the OF bypass valve which was staked in place on the '94-5 engines and would commonly fall out, giving the engine unfiltered oil forever after that. It went to a snapring retaining it in '96ish. I have pics I'll load up when I get time. It would give no symptom other than trash getting in places it shouldn't and premature wear. I'm sure many of them ran years like that.

Wow, that's a great way to smash pop cans, and to think I've been stomping on them this whole time! Really, as life goes on I pay attention more to safety stuff. Even when I had the retail shop I was very safety conscious, always wearing glasses when using air tools and grinders, etc, and harping constantly on my guys to do the same. I would blow my lid and threaten termination when I saw unsafe practices by the guys. Now I have a hobby shop with a lift and work alone all the time. I always wear glasses even if I'm not working, work safely and always have a phone in my pocket. 5 10lb fire extinguishers in a 1700sf shop. Use a lot of PPE stuff- respirator when grinding, facemask, etc. I tend to use a torque wrench more, too. Maybe I'm grown up now..... But maybe not.

It's not unusual for torque specs to be missing in shop manuals, I see it regularly. There are generic torque charts for both metric and standard threads, I have them printed and hanging on the wall at the shop for times like this. I've also written the common lug nut torques on them. As for the length of the spring, it has little to do with the relief pressure. It's more to do with pressure than length. Stretching the spring will increase the pressure and therefore fuel pressure though.

This is what I use in class and my book with a different PN, I wonder what the difference is- the casting? I bought this several years ago and it was an IH 1843065C98 rebagged. You can read the IH number through the packaging. It was pricey, like $80 IIRC.

Put a couple of bottles of Stanadyne in it, and give him a couple more to use in the future....

I'm in favor of all 8 also, but this sounds like a loose injector bleeding combustion into the rail and dropping other cyls in the bank. Does anyone else see this?

Really? I thought closed crankcases were a Fed requirement after '07.

Yes, but if your only concern is the reservoir going empty 15 seconds after a cold startup my money's on the pump. Cracked pickup tubes cause aeration which has a completely different set of complaints, like wildly swinging ICP on a warm engine and stalling.