Bruce Amacker

You know why toolboxes have wheels, right? Discount Hydraulic (see above) is cheap and ships, for the HP test fittings. Doesn't FMC audit/inventory dealers' tool lists occasionally? I'd drop a dime to the right guy and get an audit scheduled.

IPR control- not needed? Ground the IPR return wire (yellow/red, pin 2, center PCM connector, easily accessed on the top row of wires after removing the battery shield) at the PCM KOEO. OTC 303-755 HP oil disconnect This tool makes HP oil line removal a snap. It may be easily fabricated from an old flat wrench used for changing cutoff (“whizzer”) tool discs. It has two sizes, large and small: • 1.325 wide • .690 throat • .115 thick • 1.171 wide • .565 throat • .115 thick The ends are slightly beveled to allow for easier engagement of the tool. When using the tool, do not pry on it, merely insert the tool to release the fitting, and pull on the hose. EGR puller- rarely needed, use a lady's foot prybar and a long screwdriver. Buy this if you don't make one: If you work on Econolines I'd recommend this: The only things you really need to buy are the fittings for the fuel/oil checks. Early HP oil fitting is kind of hard to find- M 8x1.0 x ¼” NPT female, the hydraulic stores don't stock it. The later fitting is the same for HP oil (IPR hole) as well as FP check- Test tool for ‘04.25 up, you might want to buy 2 of them, one with a 1/4" NPT for air tests and one with an 1/8"NPT for FP tests. M12-1/4F8OHGS Parker fitting Or MMFP121514R (The same fitting is used for fuel pressure test on F- models) ¼” NPT female x 12mm-1.5 o-ring

8:07 Christmas Morning? Really? Shouldn't you be making pancakes for the girls? Those were Alldata times BTW, the first was supposedly FMC warranty, the second customer pay, and the tech rating "B" on the A/B/C scale. I don't know about the B rating, I think an A guy should be working on a 6.0 van. The CP appears to be warranty plus about 35%.

DTC or driveability issue?

I think 16 is really light. EGR cooler, CP, 8.8, Oil cooler CP 9.8, all injectors 9.8, dual alts add 1.2, = 29.6. I realize there's duplication there but 16 is light. I think 29 is light when you add in the maintenance. I didn't buy it or break it, and it ain't my fault it's here. This is not an easy truck to work on, make it worth your while. When I had the shop we did all T&M, I didn't quote in hours, it was usually easier to think of days. You need to put some extra time in this one for when shit goes wrong. Good Luck!

Parts Information OEM Part # Price EGR Cooler Cooler 4C3Z9P456AJ $505.57 Labor Information Skill Level Mfg. Warranty Standard EGR Cooler Replace B 6.6 8.8 NOTE With Dual Alternators, Add B 0.3 0.4 Oil Cooler, Engine Oil Cooler Contact dealer for most current part and price information. 3C3Z6A642BB $583.33 Labor Information Skill Level Mfg. Warranty Standard Oil Cooler, Engine Replace B 7.0 9.8 NOTE With Dual Alternators, Add B 0.3 0.4 Fuel Injector Injector Contact dealer for most current part and price information. 4C3Z9E527AB $307.69 Labor Information Skill Level Mfg. Warranty Standard Fuel Injector Replace Right Bank B 4.9 6.6 Left Bank B 3.4 4.6 Both Banks B 7.3 9.8 NOTE With Dual Alternators, Add B 0.3 0.4 I can't find the fuel pressure regulator, because FMC calls the IPR that, and it keeps taking me to the IPR. I'd probably add .5 or 1.0 while you're in there. I usually add 10% time for each year the truck has aged to compensate for rusted shit. Good Luck!

Avg MPH- 20.8, not great, but certainly not terrible. 58 miles per idle hour, about the same thing. Ford and IH use 33 avg MPH is what they like to see, I like 100-200 miles per idle hour as a good number. Probably 70-80% of the trucks I teach on have number similar to yours, only a few times I've seen avg MPH above 30. If maintenance is good it's probably a fluke. I wonder if the oil is rated CJ-4? Sometimes the cheap stuff in the tanks is not......

What are the hours and idle hours? Do you have any maintenance history? In all of the 6.7 classes I've done, only one cust has any engine failures, and it's from a gross neglect/lack of maintenance (by hours).

Rob: Thanks for the update. This is a wrecker, right? Does it have an OE or aftermarket fuel tank? (IH has a pattern failure with debris in their aluminum tanks (from the supplier's machining process) getting in the fuel system and doing massive damage. Yes, the filters "should" catch it, but on IH's it's not catching it. My guess is the sharp edges of the chips cut through the filter paper under pressure and minor vibration from the pump) For grins, did you check the hours and idle hours? Just curious, not that it matters..... Sorry about the news in Brooklyn, that must have been right nearby.

P1668- isn't that the ghost code that '99s get? There was an updated IDM for it or something? Reminder- No Perdels until late '99 trucks, early 99's and Gen 1 7.3 don't get them....

Not to put down the importance of CO detectors, but one time I was chatting with a furnace guy while he was adjusting the furnace in our house. It seems that a properly adjusted burner is important in controlling levels of CO in the exhaust. I asked if a "rich" burn (not enough air in the mix adjustment) made more CO and he said, yes, and he adjusted ours to the edge of "lean" while we talked Too lean and the flame would go to yellow and misfire, IIRC. Not much different than a car- a properly functioning PFI has little CO, even before the cat........ Yes, maintenance on the house furnace as well as every other mechanical system in the house is important, just like maintenance on the car. I have bowed out trying to be a jack of all trades and we have guys come in to do it. FWIW, I am a safety nut both around the house and at the shop with many fire extinguishers, always wear safety glasses, etc. I store my flammables outside the shop in a deck box- gas cans, K1, etc. so a stray spark won't catch them. As you get older you pay attention to silly stupid stuff like hanging onto handrails going down steps and watching your footing so you don't twist an ankle or knee, or fall and break something. My wife stumbled on a single step in our house that goes between the LR and BR area and broke her foot 4 years ago, and it still hurts to this day. Merry Christmas!

Do you have a tester FICM laying around?

Relative compression OK? Does it crank evenly- the "cranking cadence" as I call it- most times you can hear a dead hole while cranking. You probably have two concerns, unless the swivel fittings ("eyeballs") on the bottom of the HP rail are leaking and starving those two cyls for HP oil, while causing an ICP-slow-to-build complaint. I've never seen this on a 6.0 but it is a pattern failure on a late IH DT that uses the same fuel system. I've never seen a weak HPOP cause dead cyls. I assume it's all back together, like it's ready to drive? Air test it, and loosen all of the valve cover bolts you can reach. Stick a screwdriver under the VC lips to lift them up so you can listen for air leaks. An air check is pretty quick on an Evan, use the fitting on top of the HPOP. If you pull the VC off again, make sure all of the rockers are moving when you crank it and nothing is sloppy when you grab them. Change your avatar. I don't like people staring at me.

To be honest, yours doesn't sound like a bad ICP sensor, but a regular HP concern which could be anything from leaks to a weak HPOP to a base oil concern. With that number of miles it could be anything. Start with the basics- how old is the oil? Sometimes hard starts are nothing more than needing an oil change. After that, I'd sell them diag time- on yours it would be something like this- (if it was an F-pull the oil filter and make sure it has an OEM filter. Crank the engine and verify the filter housing immediately starts to fill with oil.) On an E, I'd pull the EOT or EOP and verify base oil pressure both cranking and running. It should build 20-30psi on a long crank and Pressure, low idle (min @ 110 °C (230 °F) oil temp.) 69 kPa (10 psi) Pressure, high idle (WOT) (min @ 110 °C (230 °F) oil temp.) 276 kPa (40 psi) Discharge pressure (2,500 rpm) 483 - 621 kPa (70 - 90 psi) Then I'd sell an air test at the port on the top of the pump (E-van), with that kind of miles on it you're likely to find anything. Do the air test for more than a few minutes and see what pops up, use full shop air pressure. Some guys find "some" air leaks are normal doing an air test, that's up to interpretation. If it gurgles through the oil filter the HP pump is bad. Another option is to run the engine with the VC off and look for leaks but this is tough on an E-van. By now yours should have the updated one piece STC fitting between the HPOP and the branch tube, but who knows. Pull the IPR and see if there are any chips in the tip or damage to the screen, if so it gets a HPOP, IPR and pull the oil cooler and change the oval screen. If everything checks out sub a test IPR in it (during your air test you should have cycled the IPR with IDS and hear whether it's working or not, but still sub one in) and see if your long crank improves. If you have an old IPR handy you can also put a plug in the tip and sub that in temporarily. If all checks out fine the HPOP is probably weak causing your problem, and it's a high failure rate unit so don't be afraid to sell one. While you're in there inspect/replace the o-rings on the left HP rail (ugh!) and injector inlets. I know it's a bitch but it's got to be done. I remember CP E-van HP oil diag being 15 hours or something plus time for the repair so make sure you're paid well for it. Alliant Power sells the o-rings separately so you don't have to buy HP manifolds for the swivel o-rings, and they also sell the injector inlet o-rings so you don't have to buy injectors if the inlet D-rings are worn. With that kind of miles it could be all of the above. If your relative compression and buzz test are OK, it almost sounds like 2 bad new injectors on the right bank. The best place to check FP on a van is the plugs on the back of the heads, you'll need a banjo fitting setup (12x1.5) to clear the ex pipes. I'm not teaching, you can call if you have any questions. Good Luck!

+1 on what Jimmy says, the yellow/red wire should be under .05v at all times. If I were working on this I'd do voltage drop tests on the grounds, checking the dash, engine block, body, etc vs B- which should all be under .05 also. Does it do it KOEO also? Check ACV running to rule out the alt. Also, pull the battery cables and load test the bats individually. In my experience the dash complains loudly when there's a bad battery. I had a 99 7.3 that had a really weird problem years ago. The turn signal circuit was bleeding voltage though the primary wire insulation to the adjacent CMP signal wire causing the engine to surge with the turn signal on. I told the guy he needed a harness but I put polyloom on the CMP wire to isolate it which cured the problem. I was where you're at- switched cluster, verified harness, etc, over and over again. More than a couple of hours in that truck. Good Luck!

When diaging a 6.0 ICP problem, look only at ICP voltage and not pressure. Voltage is real, but pressure is calculated, and in some instances the PCM will substitute a known good value in the pressure PID that is not correct. That means I've seen ICPV stay low at .24 while cranking while the ICP pressure PID climbed to 1000PSI or more in scan data which was obviously not real. (That was on a 7.3 ambulance, no DTCs, tech was chasing fuel) ICPV should be very close to .24 KOEO and climb to 1.2-1.5v within 3 seconds of cranking. If the system is healthy the IPR percentage usually jumps up in the 40's and settles down in the 20's right after starting, leveling off at 23-24% at a hot idle. Here's a graph of a known good 6.0. Notice the small bump in IPR command while cranking and fast start. This is a DOT 6.0 E-van with 107,000 miles, no hourmeter, but the techs say it has a boatload of hours on it, probably a low MPH average. The complaint was intermittent hard start/ extended crank time that the tech could not recreate. It was in class recently, we hooked up a FP gauge and graphed these PIDS in IDS. It started quickly each time, but notice the IPR pegging max (85%) to reach desired pressure. This is a sick truck, even though it starts quickly. An air test was done with good results, they ended up finding a weak HPOP and resealed several of the common areas up top while they were in there. +1 on what Mike said- any HEUI system needs to have the air bled out of it before it will start normally after a repair. This won't happen in the bay, it needs to be driven and be thrashed for 5-10 miles in most cases. I know yours was hard starting when it came in, just reinforcing the importance of bleeding. The right way is to pull the top plugs on the rails and crank it until oil comes out but techs rarely do that. Don't overlook checking fuel pressure, it's a common reason injectors fail. It has to be checked on the road, 40-50MPH WOT unless you use the trick Ford tool that bleeds it off the head. Good Luck!

IIRC, C&C has a 6.1 gallon tank outside the right hand framerail, Pickup, 5.1 gallon inside the framerail. I have plenty of pics but that's beside the point.

I want to wish a wonderful birthday to our leader and hope he and everyone on this forum has a happy and healthy Holiday season.

Don't get me started on this, both Ford and IH are terrible at trying to confuse use with terminology. How about Ford's renaming IH components like the IPR to "Fuel Pressure Regulator"? The one I hate the worst is on schematics- sometimes they call the ground wire on a three wire sensor "Signal Return". You don't think guys are going to get that confuse with "signal"? Like they don't already struggle enough with electrical problems? Actually, IH is MUCH worse at messing with you with names and terminologies. I could go on for a long time.......

Early 99 air boxes sucked air from the LF wheelwell, which on a dirt road is nothing but a cloud of dust and caused numerous engine failures. The later 99 (and upgrade boxes, including the Powercore upgrade box) had a square duct that pulled air from the grill area which is much cleaner. Why FMC "engineers" pulled air from the LF wheelwell still amazes me. They've actually screwed up the the air cleaner designs on almost all of the PSD trucks if you ask me. The '94-97 oval box was also recalled and a poor design (new lid and metal bolts), on the 6.0 box the air cleaner (MAF) housing warps and lets dirty air in (needed an extra clip), the 6.4 filter can be installed backwards dusting engines, and the 6.7 should have stayed with the Powercore. This is a simple task, design an air filter box. Why can't they get it right?

The shorted injector feeds the 48v back on the ground side, spiking the PCM which can cause all kinds of weird complaints. I would lean towards that being both of your problems. I've seen some really odd symptoms from shorted 6.0 injectors and it seems like every one is different.

I bet it's early- they built 99s a long time- from 1-98 until about 8-99 IIRC. They skipped '98s for several models (there's no '98 F350, for example) and went right from '97 to '99.

Perdels were only on late 99 up. What year are you working on?

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I'm very sad to hear this. Even though we had not met, I still considered him a friend.