Bruce Amacker

That's the 06E17, which was F only until 9/03 and never applied to E-s. Off the top of my head I was thinking FP as it will kick up ICP when FP drops off. Other than that, some weird electrical like grounds (or alt, like 8w said.) I'd load test the bats and clean connections for a start. Your powers did come up after the GPs cycled, right? Did you pull up ICPDES? 8W- the graph shows a stall and restart, which might be confusing you. Look at the RPM and FSync which tells the story.

I've personally seen: -The IPR return restricted on a 7.3 after a pan was changed from rust that was in the old pan. The tech inverted the engine to replace the pan, dumping gunk/rust that was in the bottom of the old pan into the block area, where it migrated into the IPR return, causing very low (3-4%?) IPR and high ICPV. The fix was pulling the HPOP and cleaning the IPR return passage/edge filter area. -Same thing on another 7.3 from too much RTV on the new pan. -The wrong RTV used on the pan, causing aeration of the brand new oil (again, 7.3), the symptom was wildly fluctuating ICP going into an intermittent stall after 10+ minutes run time. The truck ran perfect for 10 minutes or until the oil started to warm up, then ICP would start swinging like a roller coaster from 3-400ish to 2000ish, stalling at 300ish. After much grief, changing the oil fixed it. The shop (local to me) changed every part of the HP system before I got there....... The pixie juice is anti foaming additive Fleetrite/Navistar CH1824392, and appears to still be available: http://www.truckpaper.com/list/PartsSearch.aspx?PartNum=CH1824392 Good Luck!

Find somebody with an IDS to check your trims and do a relative compression. In a class a while back, we compared STFT on a 6.4 using a Modis and an IDS, the numbers were not even remotely similar. I think Solus, Modis and other SO tools use the same software.

Pull the bulbs from a known good TC and try them, I'm sure you know wattage can affect the speed of the flash. Having new bulbs scares me....

Book time isn't going to be very accurate due to rust and age, I'd quote it at T&M. They were bad on HG back then and we did hundreds of them but time fades my memory and I can't remember many tips. I don't remember heads as being a problem back then. Get o-rings and return lines for the injectors, a couple of spare head bolts as sometimes they felt rubbery when you were torquing them, and the heads rotted off the lower ones. Pop test the injectors if you pull them. (Pop test? WTF??) The LP pumps were usually bad and I tested them out of the truck by holding the outlet with my thumb and stroking the lever, if it hissed through the inlet the check valve was bad. Don't pull the horseshoe shaped casting off that the HP pump bolts to or the gear loses its time requiring the face of the engine to be removed. Pull the HP pump and HP lines as an assy, it should have the oil fill (or cover plate) bolted to the front of the horseshoe to access the three pump gear bolts. Remove the return fitting from the HPP and look for debris in it showing the pump is going bad. Turning the timing up a tad made them run better. If it has the early flat blade glow plugs upgrade it to the later bullet style and eliminate the complex and poorly engineered early GP system. The bullet connectors are available from Terminal Supply, reuse the harness. Don't mix up the two power wires on the pump. If anyone wants to chime in or correct me, that's fine.....

I've been using that one in class for over a decade. Did you know Jesus was a Ford man? He walked everywhere he went. I'm down in the Bible belt right now and that one always gets them.

That was the ticket, the student said that made it work. Thanks for the Cliff Notes version!

Ooops, brain fart, I forgot about that. Yes, close the valve and run it a bit without a filter. Cold engines don't get filtered oil anyway.....

Interesting idea. Did you try running it temporarily without the filter? That would ID whether the bypass valve was causing it.

Nice captures. Love my Pico......

I'm glad you were able to remove the sensor, that would be a real PITA if it escalated to the point of engine removal (or worse) for extraction. I've used chassis grease for decades in situations where I needed to stop repeat rust, a coating of grease on the sensor as it goes into the hole will stop future corrosion for many years. A good spray lube could be used to prevent the problem by shooting the sensor area ahead of time to slow or prevent rust jacking. "Good spray lube" IMO is one that does not dry up to a dusty residue after a year or more. Cheap spray lubes do this. Sidebar- IH uses the same PN sensor as a CKP in a DTEGR/MFDT engine and it has the same rust jacking problem. It's mounted (dry) into the flywheel housing, external of lubricated components, reading a trigger wheel pressed onto the crank between the RMS and the flywheel. In worst case scenarios the techs drill the sensor out, letting the crap fall into the bottom of the bell to lay forever, and install a new sensor.

Sidebar- Interrupting the FP circuit on a HEUI engine does not always cause a no start. I know of several times where they still run, including an unhappy shop owner who installed a kill switch in a 6.0 to find it did not kill........

Mike, are you sure about that? That's not what I see in the cranking RPM.

This is the chart I use in class, gathered using the cranking RPM reported at the bottom of the screen after a relative compression test:

I have a student trying to install a SEIC into a new 6.7 F450, he has sucessfully installed this on other trucks but cannot get this one to work. I hate to ask this without better info but is there someting different on some trucks that won't allow SEIC to work? "I am unable to get it to work, I have done it on other pickups and it worked but on this F450 it won’t. I hooked the BCP SW (Violet with a brown strip) to a upfitter switch, with the park brake and nothing happens." Thanks, guys.

Is this one weird? It's my cutaway engine I use in class, a pre-production 6.0 fitted with F650 trim. Speed sensor in the turbo and lots of other odd things like exhaust manifold ports all drilled for EGTs. IH "X" PN denotes experimental, I think. The OF/FF base is machined AL, not cast, and has all of the machining marks in it. PS I'll trade you the unison ring if you have a bad one I can use in class. This engine had nearly zero miles when I got it in late summer '03.

You're kind of "in the wrong place" for this problem. This board focuses on diagnosing and repairing stock vehicles and a lot of the guys here frown on the modifications you are referring to. You might have better luck on the public forums with this one. Good Luck!

My research shows MAF on both 6.4 and 6.7 to be in the low 30's at an idle with EGR closed and drop about 20 GPS (to about 12GPS) when the EGR is opened fully. I have had no issues with stalling on any trucks. Great quick way to test for EGR clogging. Nice job, Brad!

Nice writeup an documentation!

WOT in neutral is 7PSI? More than double what it should be.

Ford had that too, buy a Lincoln and pay sticker, and get an Escort (or whatever the small car was) for free. That was quite a while ago, maybe the 80's.

FSX is the one you're thinking of, which is recommended by most (or all) of the HD OEM's. Note that there are two types of cleanings- ash cleaning (cold blow out) for a high mileage engine with no real problems, and baking for a DPF which is face plugged or so clogged with soot/carbon that blowing does not work. This is followed by a blow job to clean the ash out of it. Most DPF cleanings include a baking because there was an issue with the engine. FSX tells me that a "number" of DPF's do not survive the process and are scrapped but would not tell me the percentage. Pricing is generally in the $400ish range for a cleaning. http://www.fsxinc.com/ is the website, http://www.fsxinc.com/site1/video/video.html is the video on the cleaning process, and it's worth watching. There's another video on YouTube that may be the same. A big item to note is that FSX does clean DPFs if you ship it to them, so you can be sure they're done correctly. The problem is that it's hard or impossible to clean some LD DPFs that we see and service because they need special adapters to fit the machine. The places in Cleveland that have DPF cleaners don't have the adapters for LD units. Another problem we've run into is the guys who have the cleaners- these things drink 440v 3PH like it's free. The business owner shortcuts the baking process to save money, leaving you with a half clogged DPF. Instead of the recommended 12 hours in the oven they shorten it and give it back to you. If you have a DPF baked, I'd ask questions like: 1. How log do you bake it? (FSX recommends 4hrs ramping the temp up, 4 hrs at 1000F and 4 hrs ramping down, going too fast cracks the substrate) 2. Do you have a flow bench for testing the DPF? 3. Do you flow test it after cleaning and compare to FSX's specs? Nobody guarantees cleaning DPFs because most are caused by a problem up front. They probably guarantee they're done right, but it would be really rare for a cust to have a DPF cleaned and then flow tested at another facility. Trusting the DPF cleaner to flow test the DPF is like the fox watching the henhouse. Keith: Should we start a new thread and move these last few posts to make it searchable?

You know the DPF is not a flow through device, and you should not be able to see a light shine through, right? Cats are flow through devices and you can see light through them, but not DPFs.

I'm not following you here. Are you complaining about regens every 350 miles? What is your DPF pressure at idle and what is it at WOT? I like to see up to .15 at idle preferred and allow up to .20psi. At WOT I like 1-3psi, over 3-4 needs a regen. Please give your mileage, engine hours, and idle hours also. Read this thread: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/5426-67-aftertreatment-diagnosis/

How about spark plugs that come out (when they're supposed to), or air filter housings that work? I know no other mfr who has air cleaner problems but Ford has huge problems with all 4 of their diesel series. The early and late 7.3 were horrible recalled designs and dusted engines, the 6.0 MAF housing warps letting in dirt and dusting engines, the 6.4 can be installed backward and the 6.7- why did they go backward from the Donaldson PowerCore? The pleated paper won't last as long and has trouble icing up. :WTF: