Bruce Amacker

NO LAUGHING!

Better late than never. Worn intensifier piston, high miles: Mild wear on fuel plunger: Intensifier piston, high miles, heavy wear: Sticky spool valve: Tired plunger: Tired intensifier piston: PaRTS:

If that means there's a lot of white smoke during cranking you have fuel but no fire. Check the GPA. If it's good it might be injectors.

OK, time to play. Thanks to FordRacer, I now have a test 6.0 PCM sitting on my desk I can connect the IDS to, as he supplied me with the needed 46 way PCM connectors, and I already had a known good PCM sitting in my junk. I sold a few IDS setups to a customer and I want to be able to set them up, register them, and test them without sitting in a truck. It was easier than I thought. I'm not going to put up pictures (yet, if ever) 'cause it's really fugly with wires hanging out all over, an OBD2 connector, and a lawn tractor battery powering it. Fugly. It was easy to wire, though, I salvaged an OBD2 dash connector from the junkyard from a 2006 F150 that was punched (free!) which already had the right colored wires in the right holes with some left over. I used the rear PCM connector (46 pin) connected to the OBD2 connector via CAN bus, 3 powers, 3 grounds, and FEPS pin 39 (Flash Eprom signal). Nothing else is connected to the 46 pin body connector. Both the 46 pin engine connector (center PCM) and the 30 pin TCM connector (front PCM) are disconnected. I've been using a VCM1 all along so this is my first venture into VCM2 land. It was a cinch to set up, pretty much automatic. I am using it wired 'cause I don't like wireless connections. (comments and opinions requested) It's not surprising that I'm showing 29 continuous DTCs and a reflash available, and when I go to Network test things got ugly. When I go to Datalogger I saw some suprises, most of the PIDS showed zeros, but there's the ones that showed valid defaults. I was surprised to see so many "in-range" default values: Comments welcome!

Like everything else in life, there's rarely a free lunch. I'd like to speak with someone who has actually collected on this 4K plan as I'm willing to bet money they are few and far between if they even exist. Sometimes the fine print screws you in the "agreement", or they find some reason to not pay you, or they just refuse and wait for you to sue them. When I had the shop I was involved in a couple of those, and they just wear you down with excuses and putoffs until you get tired of asking/complaining. Think of how may dollars in retail sales it takes them to recoup the $4K they pay out, using standard business models at a couple percent net profit you're talking like $100-200,000 in sales to offset each 4K payout. How many do you think there are? . This plan stinks like old garbage, if it doesn't pass the "sniff" test it ain't gonna happen. Use common sense........

Obviously his engine is tired, but check glow plug amperage anyway. IH uses a dumb system that does not set codes when the relay or GP fail. Cold amperage on a VT275 should be 135 initially, tapering off to 80-90 after 20 seconds. High resistance and v drop across the relay are common on IH trucks. (Ford guys have been spoiled by the GPM since they came out a decade ago) If the GP and injectors are good, I'd think that engine should start on its own. I see ether needed when the compression pressures are lower than yours, like a bunch in the 200's. If GPA is good, fill the secondary FF with Stanadyne when it's parked, run it 20 seconds to circulate it, and shut it off for the night. That might ID bad injector atomization.....

Regulators are a low failure rate on that year. Check return flow, if it's high it's the reg, if it's low, it's the screens.....

No, it means that cylinder is running slower than the rest by 3%. 7.3s are not CAN and do not control fuel per cylinder like CAN PCMS do. Cyl #8 can run a couple of percent, cyls 1-7 should not.

IH/Ford do not publish compression specs. What's your altitude? The CR is the same as a 6.0, 18:1. A strong engine at sea level should make 400-425. I use 375+ as good in Cleveland, 350 being yellow and 300 red.

Very common problem on Gen2 7.3s, the two round filter screens in the pickup are probably clogged like Aaron said. They are not meant to be serviceable but if you are careful the pickup can be disassembled and cleaned. If you want to do diag, find the fitting adapter and check your inlet restriction, it should not be over 6"hg. Another way is to check return flow to the tank, it should be strong. Good Luck!

Probably not. The dealers were having a difficult time programming these and most got new PCMs calibrated to '96. If it is an early one you can talk to it (limited) through the OBD1 connector by the hood hinge. Get a reman/used '96 PCM, (or buy one for that truck, it will be OBD2 out of the box) they're cheap. Good Luck!

Ditto here, 80 Thursday, snowing right now and 42 (WTF?).

Thanks to FordRacer who's supplying the PCM plugs. If anyone has an OBD2 connector (under the dash) I could use that. It's easy enough to get it from a boneyard if not. Thanks Guys!

Hey Guys: I'm putting together a "test 6.0 PCM" to have on my desk for playing with scan tools. I have the PCM, what I need is: 1. Both rear PCM plugs. The rear one is the C1381A Body plug, 46 pin. The center one is the C1381C Engine plug, also 46 pin. I'm not sure if they are interchangeable. 2. An OBD2 connector found under the dash, hopefully with the proper pins in it to mimic a 6.0 PSD. Does anyone have any junk harnesses in their stash they could cut the plugs from? I'll need the plug assy and 6" of pigtail, damaged is OK as long as it would function. I'd be happy to pay for them. Post, call, or PM if you can help. 440-846-3885 THANKS!

Harbor Freight 8mm works well, too, and the color will let everyone in the shop know you're using one.

Neither IH or Ford published a spec. Generally, a tight motor will be 400-425 at seal level, that's why I asked you about your elevation as altitude has considerable effect on compression numbers. I consider 375+ to be OK, under 350 borderline, and under 300 junk. Look at your Perdels and swap a couple of injectors from the bad holes into the good holes if you want positive results. Replacing the rest of your injectors is "probably" going to fix your engine, or at least make a significant improvement. Don't forget to bleed it out before looking at perdels after swapping injectors. Drive it hard, and if you want to cut time down, pull the little plugs out on top of the oil galleys in the heads to help bleed it out. Crank the engine with the plugs out until oil flows. Good Luck!

I think a large portion of keeping the bottom of a 6.4 intact is watching your STFT religiously.........

Did they do them with the valves in or out?

I've had many techs tell me in my classes nationwide that they routinely mill a few thou off the heads with no negative results. If presented with the situation, I am sure I would too.

Keith, what class have you been trying to get into for 3 years?

Yes, I've owned several Picos and recommend them highly! Fast, easy to use, and probably the most widely used scope among auto techs and instructors.

Jim, medicine has made great advances towards this disease and I hope your illness is beaten quickly. I wish you the best of luck!

I think that's the electric actuator for the VGT.

Yes, I'd say cooler and cooler bypass valve on the rear, with the EGR on the LR of the engine.

If anyone wants zooms or full size pics, e-mail me.