Bruce Amacker

It's on the Gen1 7.3 engines and falls out of the rear side of the front cover causing no low oil pressure. I'm not sure if it is present on your model year. When it happens it's really difficult to diag. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubb...=true#Post41843

The pickup screens are very coarse and will let small boulders into the pump. Other possible problems causing your trouble can be an air bleed valve that has fallen out of the front cover allow all oil to pour directly into the gearcase, or the pickup tube has cracked. Both are common on Gen 1s. I have pics of both if you need them, and they're probably on DTS somewhere already. Hope you have neither. Good Luck!

Happy Birthday anyway!

You haven't seen those? They've been out at least 5 years....

My opinion is that the Wix 24490 does not filter as well as the original PowerCore filter. However, there are applications that need the filter changed almost daily like highway broom truck, or brush fire truck. In these situations I tell the cust they have options.

Holy smokes! I can't beleive people live/stay in areas with temps like that.

GM's were wired that way for years, also, I think it was the TBI years IIRC.

I agree for the most part, but I've seen plenty of P1000s on vehicles that had not had codes cleared, programmers, batteries unhooked/replaced, or other interruptions. I have a screen cap of a P1000 with a CLRDIST in the thousands, and I've seen it more than a few times in class. These vehicles are usually gov't owned, never have chips or delete kits, and the students have no reason to lie to me (unlike your situation!). I think there's TSB's for reflashes, but I've also seen it with current flash levels for no reason. Comments are welcome.

My guess is that the strap is a temporary restraining device used for a term during production, like during the shipment of a subassembly the strap is used to retain the battery to the tray. Like Jimmy said, if you toured the assembly plant you'd probably see what purpose the strap has in life. Being that there is a clamp wedge installed later, it looks like it's not for production.......

The pictures I have show no strap on either battery, I remember a 8mm hold down clamp at the bottom into a plastic wedge retaining each battery. The left battery has a large plastic heat shield over it that doubles as a rainwater shield over the PCM connector. What are we missing here?

Doesn't the left battery have the plastic shield over it and the PCM, or is that only the 250/350?

That's not fraud, he is allowed to spend an insurance check however he likes.....

You're a dealer tech? The IH EZ tech platforms have a trans program that will talk to this. I'm sure you know it's the same truck as a IH CF500/600/Citystar, right? Look on OnCommand for IKnow letters, use citystar as a search, there's a letter for diag and one for pulling flash codes..... Countries: CANADA, UNITED STATES, MEXICO Document ID: IK1300023 Availability: ISIS, FleetISIS Revision: 2 Major System: TRANSMISSION Created: 11/22/2006 Current Language: English Last Modified: 9/18/2007 Other Languages: Français, Español, Viewed: 2584 More Info Less Info Copy Link Bookmark Add to Favorites Print Provide Feedback Helpful Not Helpful View My Bookmarks 524 857 Title: How to Retrieve Flash Codes From the Ford 5R110W Transmission Applies To: CF-500, CF-600, CityStar -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- DESCRIPTION Use information below for DTC Retrieval, code clearing, and flash code interpretation. Transmission DTC Retrieval In addition to providing optimum shift point schedules, conditional modes, and protective failure modes, the TCM also logs diagnostic trouble codes to help pinpoint problems in the various systems. Transmission DTCs can be retrieved and cleared either with on-board flash codes or off -board using the EZ-Tech. Flash Code DTC Retrieval The Ford 5R110W transmission can communicate fault codes to the operator through flash signals without using special tools. To retrieve codes, use the following steps: Turn the key on, but don't start the engine. Place the shift selector in M2, OR any position if the transmission range sensor is faulted. Change the "Tow/Haul" switch state TWICE within 4 seconds after turning the key on. Once "code retrieval" is initiated, the following sequence of events will communicate the existing fault codes: All 3 lamps, Check Trans, Trans Temp, and Tow/Haul turn on to show the "diagnostic mode" The "Check Trans" and "Trans Temp" lamps extinguish, but "Tow/Haul" remains on to show the current status of the code retrieval mode. If no codes are active, the "Check Trans" lamp will flash 111. If codes are present, each code flashes through the "Check Trans" lamp. Each digit will be separated by a pause. A flash of the "Trans Temp" lamp separates each Code. When all codes have been flashed, "Trans Temp" will flash twice and the "Tow/Haul" lamp will go out. Use ISIS to identify all Diagnostic Trouble Codes. Remedy all identifiable causes. Then clear all codes with the following procedure. Code Clearing: The following process will clear all stored codes: Turn the Key ON but don't start the Engine. With the gear selector in "D", Push the "Tow/Haul" switch. Then, move the gear selector to "N", and Push the "Tow/Haul" switch. Then move the gear selector to "R", and push the "Tow/Haul" switch Finally, move the gear selector to "P" and Push the "Tow/Haul" switch All three lamps flash three times to signal the successful clearing of codes. Once the codes are cleared, recheck for faults to be sure all problems have been remedied. EZ-Tech DTC Retrieval Connect the EZ-TECH to the 9-pin data port under the instrument panel using the IC4 cable. From the default EZ-TECH home page choose Transmission Diagnostics, then choose Ford 5R110W to launch the diagnostics software. Once the diagnostic software is launched, the Self Test tool allows the technician to perform the following tests to extract diagnostic trouble codes from the TCM Run the Key On / Engine Off / On Demand Self-Test Run the Key On / Engine Running / On Demand Self-Test OBD-II Diagnostic Trouble Codes Flash Code OBD-II Code Description 111 No Codes Found 112 P0657 Actuator Supply Voltage A Circuit / Open 113 P0706 Transmission Range Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance 114 P0707 Transmission Range Sensor A Circuit Low Input 115 P0708 Transmission Range Sensor A Circuit High Input 121 P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor A Circuit 122 P0711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance 123 P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low Input 124 P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input 125 P0715 Turbine/input Shaft Speed Sensor A Circuit 131 P0717 Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor A Circuit No Signal 132 P0718 Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor A Circuit Intermittent 133 P0720 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit 134 P0721 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance 135 P0722 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal 141 P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio 142 P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit / Open 143 P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Performance or Stuck Off 144 P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Stuck On 145 P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Electrical 151 P0744 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Intermittent 152 P0748 Pressure Control Solenoid A Electrical 153 P0750 Shift Solenoid A 154 P0751 Shift Solenoid A 155 P0752 Shift Solenoid A 211 P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical 212 P0755 Shift Solenoid B 213 P0756 Shift Solenoid B 214 P0757 Shift Solenoid B 215 P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical 221 P0760 Shift Solenoid C 222 P0761 Shift Solenoid C 223 P0762 Shift Solenoid C 224 P0763 Shift Solenoid C Electrical 225 P0765 Shift Solenoid D 231 P0766 Shift Solenoid D 232 P0767 Shift Solenoid D 233 P0768 Shift Solenoid D Electrical 234 P0770 Shift Solenoid E 235 P0771 Shift Solenoid E 241 P0772 Shift Solenoid E 242 P0773 Shift Solenoid E Electrical 243 P0791 Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor A Circuit 244 P0793 Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor A Circuit No Signal 245 P0794 Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor A Circuit Intermittent 314 P0960 Pressure Control Solenoid A Control Circuit / Open 315 P0962 Pressure Control Solenoid A Control Circuit Low 321 P0963 Pressure Control Solenoid A Control Circuit High 323 P0973 Shift Solenoid A Control Circuit Low 324 P0974 Shift Solenoid A Control Circuit High 331 P0976 Shift Solenoid B Control Circuit Low 332 P0977 Shift Solenoid B Control Circuit High 334 P0979 Shift Solenoid C Control Circuit Low 335 P0980 Shift Solenoid C Control Circuit High 342 P0982 Shift Solenoid D Control Circuit Low 343 P0983 Shift Solenoid D Control Circuit High 345 P0985 Shift Solenoid E Control Circuit Low 351 P0986 Shift Solenoid E Control Circuit High 354 P1001 KOER Not Able to Complete, KOER Aborted 355 P1397 System Voltage Out Of Self Test Range 411 P1501 Vehicle Speed Sensor Out Of Self Test Range 412 P1702 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent 413 P1705 Transmission Range Circuit Not Indicating Park/Neutral During Self Test 414 P1711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Out Of Self Test Range 415 P1729 4X4 Switch 421 P1744 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Performance 422 P1780 Transmission Control Switch (O/D Cancel) Circuit Out Of Self Test Range 423 P1783 Transmission Overtemperature 424 P1910 Reverse Lamp Control Circuit / Open 425 P2700 Transmission Friction Element A Apply Time Range/Performance 431 P2701 Transmission Friction Element B Apply Time Range/Performance 432 P2702 Transmission Friction Element C Apply Time Range/Performance 433 P2703 Transmission Friction Element D Apply Time Range/Performance 434 P2704 Transmission Friction Element E Apply Time Range/Performance 435 U0100 Lost Communication With ECM / PCM A 999 No Translation for Fault --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I agree the setup procedure in shop manuals sometimes overloads the pinion bearing on assembly. I've set up numerous diffs over the years and you learn to take the factory info and give it a twist of experience. I have no recollection of any of my diffs ever coming apart in normal service, but I believe one or two were murdered (heavy dumps stuck in the mud). On a RWD a few inch pounds of drag measured after breakaway always worked for me. I've flattened out and reused crush collars when the new one did not want to crush using reasonable force. Few shops have the zillion ton press used at the factory to crush collars. IMO, if you're not comfortable with the procedure and you're experienced in doing diffs, making a reasonable change to the procedure is acceptable. If we followed the WSM to an absolute "tee" in every exacting respect, the vehicles would never leave our bays.

I'm not buying that. I bought a used 6.7 already, and car-part.com has a bunch of them starting at $6500 complete, A grade (low miles runs good). Putting in a used engine is generally much easier than a long block or running complete, I bet you could have it done in 12 hrs. Even when you add the fuel tank and pump you should be well under 15k. When I bought mine I got EVERYTHING, and I mean everything I wanted- exhaust from front to back, DEF tank, pumps, sensors, aftercooler, etc for not much more than the number above. Why are they talking about totaling it? Is it whipped, beat or high miles already? C/C or P/U? Edit: Do they have to keep the factory warranty intact? Will FMC warranty a used engine? I doubt it.....

Once again, I'm getting old. I've never used an Xbox 360, or for that matter, an Xbox. I had such a bad experience with Windows Vista that I vowed to NOT upgrade to a newer version until it was tried and proven (by someone else) on all automotive software. My belief is that much of the software we (I) use runs 2 years or more behind current and therefore we are at much more risk for computer grief when upgrading. I'm still using XP Pro.......

I thought this was a no-start? Don't worry about voltages much if it runs.

No, don't put a push button on it, that's a bullshit repair that makes you a hack. I'm thinking the PCM supplies control power to the relay from PCM pin 71, 97 (and through the 42 way connector pin 24) and control ground for the relay on PCM pin 101 (and through the 42 way connector pin 13). With the truck cold (or the EOT disconnected, IIRC, which is on the rear face of the HP reservoir right above the HP pump) pull both small control wires off of the GPR and connect a test light between them. Turn the key on, the light should illuminate for 5-10 seconds or more as the GPR is commanded on. Maybe you have a bad or misboxed GPR, but checking the basic circuit will prove it out. IIRC, disconnecting the EOT forces the GPR on for its max time when you cycle the key on. If "it" (EOT, I assume) is reading -40F maybe someone already disconnected the EOT, you might want to fix that since it will piss off the PCM pretty badly. Good Luck!

1. The nut falling off is easy but it's always set codes for me and been easy to diag. It can cause a wicked surge with the throttle- on acceleration the solenoid slides back causing no HP oil, the truck violenty decels, the solenoid slides forward, the engine accelerates, the solenoid slides back, causing a bizarre driveline wrapup. 2. Yes, you can use a Fluke set on duty cycle to get the same reading in percent for IPR command. (Early IH 3 boxes do not have IPR% in scan data so this is how you do it) 3. Checking voltage on the IPR return wire will also tell the story- Approximate voltages- 10.5v KOEO is about right 12.0v idling If it's 12.2-12.6 on the return wire the IPR driver is burned out of the PCM If there's no voltage there's an open in the circuit from VBAT (the PCM relay) through the IPR and to the PCM. Beware the service info may have the wrong voltages in it. (pinpoint voltages) Good Luck!

http://www.abc.net.au/news/specials/hurricane-sandy-before-after-photos/ Hover with the mouse and slide back and forth. Holy shit.

The sun's out today for the first time in two weeks. It rained every day here for at least the last 12 days and maybe 14.....

I agree totally! I'll also add that I hope very few of you vote today because you were smart enough to vote by mail and not waste your precious time at the polls. I haven't visited a poll in many years.... It's looking to be a tight race and we will likely not know the winner tonight and maybe not even tomorrow. Being from a 'swing state', I'll be damn glad it's over to stop the campaign ads which dominate the media like I've never seen. I get several political robocalls per day which drive me nuts. I'm told that political calls do not qualify for the "do not call" list. (Gee, I wonder who decided that?)

It's possible they didn't because they had a shitload of the two-piece style on the shelf. I know Ford dealers were selling the old style over the counter to the aftermarket for several years after the new ones were released. You got the old ones unless you knew to ask for the new one piece style......

Yes it will work. All 7.3 IDMS can interchange, even early and late for a test unit, but may set false codes. Good Luck!

I think SC has one of the lowest gas taxes around. I know driving from Ohio to FL and back regularly that SC always has the cheapest gas, usually by .20-.30C.....