Bruce Amacker

Gas is coming down around here, $3.14 at Shell last night. We still have people locally without power but not many. Our damage was insignificant compared to the coast's....

Yes, it's a giant mess toward the coast and I bet Keith is on edge. I hope all is well at his house. Cleveland got some of the highest steady winds we've ever seen for a long period, resulting in uprooted trees (two in our yard) and power outages, but my power stayed on. Schools and a lot of businesses are closed. Still very windy but it has slowed down, like in the 30-40 steady plus gusts. Both my and my wife's flights were canceled so we're staying home and watching the weather. The neighbor had big water problems but so far we're OK there. MIL is 85 at home with no power by herself. I've seen worse but not for a long time, and usually not without snow. I think the "eye" is about 150-200m east of us right now, heading kind of toward us but will probably veer north. I'm surprised how much grief this has caused Cleveland being we're so far inland. Edit- it's just raining hard now without high winds. Judging by the pictures I see on TV, Ohio got off easy. I hope Keith and all of the other guys here on the east coast got off as well as I did. Both of our phone land lines are out.

The fucking wind here is unreal- stronger than I have ever seen. Officially it's 45/65 but a meteorologist measured it at 95m gusts downtown. It's loud as hell, the proverbial freight train, and we're 400 miles from the coast. Lights flicker regularly but are still on. We just had a complete new roof installed a few months ago due to wind damage.....

My flight was just canceled. So much for AAPEX/SEMA this year.....

I've got a flight to Vegas Tuesday morning, and my wife flies out Wednesday morning. Anyone taking bets on whether the flights even exist? Cleveland has been hammered with heavy winds and rain all day today, with plenty of flight cancellations already.

1. The ONLY way to check glow plugs on a 7.3 is to test amperage. As you know the relays go bad very frequently, the amperage should be 190ish, dropping to 120 after 30 seconds. If you don't have an amp clamp do a voltage drop test across the relay, it should be 12.6 open and under .5 closed. 2. Cranking RPM is also critical, check it with a scan tool as your ear is not good enough. It should be 150+ cold, at 130 they will start hard or not start and it might "sound" like it's cranking normally. Many times guys get beat up by bad batteries. 3. Use ICPV, not ICP on a no start, as the PCM will substitute a known good value when the ICP is low, ICPV should be about .24 KOEO and quickly rise past 1.5v cranking. If the PCM is pissed off, it will show 1200PSI but actually have zero ICP pressure with ICPV staying low near .24v. BTDTGTTS, and I've seen guys burned by this many times. If all of this is good, commonly your injectors have a poor spray pattern/atomization or your compression is low. Good Luck!

It used to be on old IDS discs, maybe look around for one. Currently they have SM....

I had the hood up on a new Subaru that was using it.

See if these help, they are some stuff I copied and saved from another website years ago but never tried. Unfortunately, the pictures did not save in the original document for the 99-03 file. There's also the operator's manual for the FMC APCM. Good Luck!

I thought so, too, I'll look in my stuff when I get home tonight.

I bought it and have pics of the package- a complete pigtail with 5 pieces of shrink tube, an instruction sheet (?) and a short piece of polyloom. It fits all 6.0s.

Isn't it called APCM (Auxillary PCM)? I think they're about $500 new, but I bet you find them on FleaBay....

These are DT pics, the V4 pump on an '05 is set up similar: The cam followers are solid brass, and that's probably where the shavings are coming from. See pic #7 in the 2005 CTB.

I had one like that on a Chevy that broke out, spun a half turn, re-locked itself together and drove in with a wicked vibration.

Leave the IPR closed and the air on for a substantial time, you'll have to push any oil present through the (small) leak before hearing the hiss.

I did a garbage packer class last summer in Mississippi in 100* heat. If you don't think garbage trucks reek, you need to move to a warm climate. The odor was fucking overwhelming. As for the shop, it sounds like you hit a home run!

In addition, on a hard start I always tell guys to watch ICPV, fuel pressure, cranking RPM, and on a VT it doesn't have a smart glow plug system so an amperage check is a must. I've not checked a VT but using 6.0 numbers x .75 it should be about 130-140 initially, tapering off to half that after 30 seconds. If scan data looks funky look at basic electrical (battery/starter connections, clean power to the ECM etc) and backprobe the ICP for clean voltage info. I'll never trust an ECM to provide me correct ICP data on a hard start- I've learned the hard way and always use ICPV (either from scan data or backprobing the ICP). I don't have a known good cranking RPM but I would like to see in excess of 175 cranking. I have a capture showing 18.5% IPR at a hot idle on a new truck. Like Keith says, watch IPR command cranking which will give you a clue if it pegs high-near 85%. IIRC VT275s don't read (correct) EOP in scan, so if the LPOP was struggling there would not be a great indicator of it, which could contribute to your trouble. On a long shot poor fuel quality can also give a hard start. Let us know what you find. Good Luck!

It's in my profile, 440-846-3885.

Something is seriously wrong here- it should not make 5K without the IPR energized, it should be somewhere between 0psi and 200psi. The IPR is a dump valve which is normally open. If it is not energized, it sends 100% of the oil the HP pump makes back into the sump via the front cover, not making any ICP. Later engines make 200-300psi with an open IPR but I can't remember what a E engine makes. If you are truly making 5K with an open IPR, your edge filter is plugged with crap in the HPOP and easily cleaned. I've seen this before caused by sloppy workmanship doing stuff inside the engine and leaving silicone and debris which gets into the pump and blocks the passageway going to the front cover. If this is true your IPR will be under 5% idling because the ECM will not call for more HPOP. You should be able to unplug your IPR idling and the engine should immediately stall. If your ICP is really high, the engine will sound super aggressive, noisy, and pissed off because the timing will be cranked up really high by the ICP pressure. The noise will make it stand right out. If it idles fine, I doubt your ICP is that high (maybe your gauge is fucked?). If the HPOP makes 5Kpsi it's probably not the pump, I can't ever remember seeing a pump that was intermittent. If your ICP is low look harder at the LPOP pressure, that kicks a lot of guys asses. They struggle with the system, not realizing the whole HP system depends on the LP system supplying enough oil. Go for a RT with SM hooked up, and the following pids pulled- ICP, ICPV, ICP desired, IPR, and oil pressure. Do a recording of a bunch of WOT blasts like 1/4 mile drag races. You should expect IPR to be high during this time, but (IIRC!) not over 70-80%. IIRC if it hits 85% for a few seconds and ICP/ICP desired spread considerably it will set your 333. IIRC IPR% should be 9-11% at a hot idle but will go up drastically with load. You should see 550-600ish at idle and 2700+PSI at WOT under load depending on HP rating and other things. I like to look at ICPV and not ICP, that translates to .20v KOEO, 1.5v cranking, and about 1.0v idling hot. ICPV is an input into the computer which is more accurate than ICP, which is an output calculated by the computer. If the ECM is pissed off because the clean power is dirty, the alt makes too much AC, or a number of other things, it might make bad decisions and lie to you about ICP. You're young, learn to use ICPV over ICP, it will save your ass a few times during your career. I'm in town tomorrow if you want to call.

I strongly recommend against any kind of rotary tool on blocks as they shed abrasive material which gets in bad places, causing bearing failures. This goes back decades- all mfr's put out TSBs years ago saying not to use them, and denying any kind of warranty if they saw swirl marks. In my shop I'd allow them on parts that could be washed afterwards on the bench but not on head surfaces (either head or block). I like soft (brass) scrapers along with solvent/brakecleen/gasket remover, depending on what works best.

Unlikely, my money is on a bad pump. Why didn't you deadhead the pump? It's quicker than changing the IPR-I do it at idle by grounding the IPR return and watching pressure. I'm assuming you have SM or a good scan tool. If you don't, you could watch ICPV with a DVOM while backprobing the IPR and grounding the return wire. (It should be .2V KOEO and I'm thinking 4.5+ VDC grounded) IH also makes breakout harnesses for this (I could get the PNs if you really wanted, but they should be on the SPX site) but the IPR is very easy to access on this engine. Pull the IPR plug off- KOEO, one wire is hot, that's the power supply, you want to identify and ground the OTHER wire, which is the ECM PW modulated ground side. (sidebar- beware the EGED diag sheet has a misprint on this circuit and the wrong voltage is shown in the chart) You could also test drive the truck and watch IPR% and ICP which would tell the tale. My guess is that at WOT IPR is going to 70-85% and ICP is staying around 2k, which is what I usually see. Mark might chime in here as I'm sure he's seen more of these than me. If the injector O-rings leak it's a different complaint- if the center O-ring leaks, it pumps the contents of the oil pan into the fuel tank. If the top O-ring leaks, it's usually a hard start cold (extended cranking) along with an elevated IPR command, because the oil bleeds out of the HP oil rail while it's parked. If you have a lot of experience with 7.3 PSD's, there's a lot of similarities in the systems. Good Luck!

Several common things baffle guys with 333 codes on DTs. The first is lack of low pressure oil feeding the HPOP, the second is the HPOP itself. Verify good oil pressure, and to test the HPOP momentarily ground the IPR return wire to see if the HPOP will put out the 4100psi it's rated for. I've seen plenty of them that will run fine, set 333s, and only put out 1800-2000 when deadheaded. Intermittent ICPs, IPRS and the connector to the IPR are also possible. The IPR connector is commonly damaged during engine service and loses its continuity, which will immediately kill the engine and frequently NOT set a circuit code. Wiggle the connector while watching voltage on the return wire at the ECM, it should remain steady in the 10.5v area at KOEO and 12.0 at idle. Substituting a known good IPR is really the only way to verify it's good. The o-rings tear on the IPR commonly, too, I usually change the whole IPR if the o-rings are torn. Good Luck!

I'm assuming you changed the battery. I know nothing about new Escapes, but I do know a bad battery can cause a shitload of false codes, dashboard problems and comm problems. Do a complete charging system check, too, like ACV, voltage drops, brush bounce, etc. Drive it with the alt inop and see if your codes return. Dirty power will piss off every module causing exactly what you describe.... Good Luck! I don't know much about the BMS reset. Is there anything I should know?

My last venture with drywall mud involved patching a hole a few inches square in a ceiling. I sanded it without a mask on, which was a big mistake. It caused me to get chronic bronchitis that stayed with me in a horrible way for 2+ years. I may never touch drywall again.