Bruce Amacker

I bought a composite pan last May, the PN was BC3Z-6695-A.

Try copying your scratched discs using a computer drive to a new blank disc. Sometimes this will copy the good stuff and not the bad..... Good Luck!

I've been addicted for years, almost a thousand feedbacks now.......

Yes, on gassers several times. The first one kicked my ass because it didn't cause a low power problem, it surged at light throttle cruise. Ugh!

Yes it can, but I don't suggest doing it that way. The pan is glued on with silicone, no gasket, and the pan surface has to be bone ass dry for the silicone to stick. It's much more successful if you pull the engine and invert it to change the pan so oil is not slobbering down the pan rails as you're putting the pan on. Good Luck!

You'll have to make the tubular adapter shown above with the .298" orifice in it. It does not matter what size vinyl tube you use as the principles of physics take over and 6" of water pressure is 6" of water pressure, whether it's in a 1/8" tube or a 1/2" tube (or any other size). Good Luck!

This should explain it using factory tool 303-758, or making a homemade version: Note that when using a homemade water manometer, the measurement is the difference between the two fluid levels, not how much one leg moves. So if the left leg lowers by 3", your pressure is 6" of water. This is easily misread. I know several guys on this forum prefer to use the crankcase pressure test over a conventional compression test, but I'll warn you that I've tested known good engines in class that failed the test. Don't rely on a single test to condemn an engine, use common sense and verify your results using other tests. Good Luck, and Merry Christmas!

So, to clarify, it was rust jacking of the CMP? Thanks,

Napa PN 4077 oil analyis kit, $13.

Wow, I've been waiting for one of these. I assume you have one in the shop? Is it CP or insurance? Please keep us informed on what you do with it. Thanks!

Old Ssm 0980 - 6.4l egr removal tool damage concerns some 6.4l egr (303-1267) tools may experience a stripped bearing retaining nut. If the nut becomes damaged during egr valve removal, inspect the threaded forcing screw for damage as well and call rotunda for replacement components at 1-800-rotunda (768-8632) and choose option #5 at the prompt. During tool re-assembly remember to use loc-tite 262 and note that it is a left hand thread. Please make sure that the pilot cup turns freely after re-assembly as well. I've got TKIT-303-1267-UPD for the PN, $431.00. This is the updated legs, forcing screw, spacer, washers, etc.

Let's clarify- by "bleed off hole" you mean the vent hole near the gear keeps leaking after the engine is shut off, right? It's supposed to. The default for the IPR is zero, in which case it's completely open with the key off. This means it's going to vent or leak oil with the key off. Let's start with some basics- what scan tool are you using? Have you monitored Sync and FICM Sync in scan data to see if they flip right away cranking? What is your IPR% at a hot idle? It should be right close to 23%. What DTCs do you have? Have you check fuel quality and pressure? What is your cranking RPM both hot and cold? It should be 215 hot and 175+ cold. If it is low it will suffer from extended crank. How long did you leave the IPR closed with air applied during your HP test? A small leak may take a half hour to push the oil out and hiss. Give us some answers and we'll suggest a direction.

Wow, this is a tough one and I've not heard of it before. Older trucks had a similar problem that would cause them to stall when put in reverse due to the tranny filter falling off and sucking air into the tranny. I doubt this would be your problem but it is relevant enough I thought I'd mention it. I "think" your problem might be in the HPOP system. What's your IPR at a hot idle, 23% or so? Has the oil been changed lately? (If it's only stone cold, could the oil be tar?) I might check the low oil pressure and make sure it's good, and check the oil filter so see if it's OE and the standpipe isn't broken. IPR should never go to 85% in my opinion, and if it does, ICP should be 4000+. IPR fluctuating wildly can mean oil starvation or aeration. If ICP is staying at a steady 1.68 for any time while IPR is changing, the PCM is in FMEM or substitution mode and not showing the true value. If it were in my bay I'd be backprobing the ICP and seeing what it's really reading. I bet it's not 1.68v. I'm just thinking out loud here to inspire thought. Keep us posted on what you find. Good Luck!

Yes, I like between 8 and 10 with 12 the ballpark limit. A recent 7.3 I helped on was 20something, I think we led to replacing the injectors....

I'd have a hard time believing the IAH would cause this. Most trucks in northern climates have this "Cold Climate Package" option, but not all of them. The ones that don't have it start and run just like the ones that do in my opinion. I never saw smoke from any 7.3 connected to performance of the IAH and the only IAH problems I've ever seen are codes for open circuit. (For those that have forgotten, the IAH is not for startup but for elimination of smoke during cold warmup. It does not operate before starting but after starting. This allowed FMC to market this engine as a "smokeless diesel".) The inconsistent nature of the smoke leads me to believe 1-2 cyls have low push or bad injectors. As these engines get older I'm finding that a large majority of customer complaints can be traced back to low compression, therefore I am recommending a comp test on nearly all driver complaints. The results speak for themselves once the test is completed. What is bizarre is how a 7.3 with horrible compression can run so well and pull so strong once it gets up on boost. I've had them be so worn out, wrecked pistons, dusted cylinders, broken rings, scored cylinders, 1/2" piston ring gaps on teardown, needing ether to fire every day, and still pull quite respectably on boost....

Injector o-rings are definitely possible but with oil consumption that low I be suspicious. If you put a FP gauge on both heads and watch FP on startup it might give a better clue. Being that the test ports are downstream of the inlet checkvalves (that might work), if an injector o-ring was leaking it would show an indication in elevated FP on that head. Also, if it were an o-ring, one complete head would be smoking terribly on startup. If this were in my bay, it would get 2 FP gauges and a mechanical compression test. Low compression will also cause this symptom- incomplete combustion and white smoke. Poor injector atomization can also cause it. Rule out the basics first! Good Luck!

I'm having the exact same problem putting 76.02on one of my PC's. I put 76.02 on a buddy's PC with no problems this week, and it is the same PC- a Asus Eec 10" netbook.

With FMC publicizing today that they will pay stock dividends in March for the first time in 5 years, I think it's safe to say that if there is a "diesel that saved Ford", it's not the 6.4, it's the 6.7. I breezed that article and all I can say is OMG.

Is it a non-servicable aluminum can with a pull chain going through it?

ANY 7.3 can need injectors at nearly ANY time, they are very susceptible to contamination wrecking the barrels and plungers. Mileage means nearly nothing. FWIW, look at MFDES hot idling. If it's above 12ish the engine is starving for fuel because of low FP or degraded injectors. Good Luck!

In addition, the lift pump check valves tended to leak causing that problem, but the only way I know to check them is to remove the pump and test them on the bench (by holding your thumb on the outlet, stroking the lever once, and seeing if the inlet hisses). I might try the butcher diag of clamping the rubber hose near the lift pump and see if it fixes your problem. I'm trying to remember if the E's had that fucking stupid water separator like the F's did- make sure it's been updated- the rubber cork in the bottom would leak fuel and suck air. I'd also take the return valve out of the top of the injector pump and verify it's working properly (stick a toothpick is something in it and make sure it's springy, and the clear glass ball is clear.) Why are all of these antiques coming out of the woodwork?

It isn't your GP. Check your cranking speed on the scan tool, it should be 150+ cold and 175ish warm. They will sound fine at 135rpm and start hard. If that's OK (and other basics like FP, ICP, etc) your injectors are not atomizing correctly and it's time for a set.

And when you see the paint on the stator turned black you know the story....