Bruce Amacker

You don't have the Ford package? It barely gives you anything in Generic mode. Make sure you select "Powerstroke X.XL" when you connect (in enhanced mode) and not "F250" or "F350" or it will screw you up. Keep putting the free updates in from their website, too, as they constantly upgrade it. Do you have the ProLine connector? It's no IDS and not even close to it, but dollar for dollar if you're on a budget it's the best thing going in the aftermarket. If you're a full time instructor see if they'll "do something for you" on the enhanced side. Is your Delmar connected to Delmar publications? Have you gone to Nacat the last few years? It's in the Dallas area next year, I think... Have fun!

I'm thinking it was the housing they clearanced, not the ring itself.....

What's in my bay? First of all, it's a new bay in a new shop. Second, in my bay is a brand new 10K Challenger lift. 1700sf down in two sides, workshop side has a 12' ceiling, the tall side has a 17' ceiling for a lift. Half bath down, full bath and office up. 3 phase power, great heat and insulation, plumbed for air, building is only 10 years old and built like a bomb shelter. The dunebuggy is a friend's. It's been 8 years since I sold the old shop and I've been existing in a 900sf unheated garage with no insulation or bathroom. Ugh! This is like the friggng Taj Mahal by comparison!

They frequently don't show leakage when testing even when they are bad due to the fact they can leak very slowly. We did a lot of these and resolved ourselves to changing the bundle and both end castings to avoid comebacks (which we had a lot of until we changed all parts). The area in the casting where the o-rings ride is always pitted from coolant neglect, allowing the seals to seep. Good Luck!

First off, forget resistance checking GP's, only use amp draw. It's not only correct but much quicker. They should be 190ish for both banks and 25ish individually. IIRC the original relays were nitrogen filled to prevent excessive arcing. The aftermarket relays were 1/5 the price but probably not nitrogen filled (IIRC $15 vs $75). FMC might have gone to a cheaper (offshore) supplier.

Are you sure that fits a Ford? I was under the impression FMC harnesses had IH PN's but were captive and available from FMC only....

I've heard other people that keep the tools in the parts dept with a PN assigned to each tool with zero cost, and bill it out to each tech when needed and credit him when returned.

My guess is they'll go with a J2534 cable like other companies are doing, I hope they keep the IDS software format as it is refined so well. When IH changed softwares a few years ago to ServiceMaxx they did not (and apparently are not gonna) pick up a lot of the features that Saint and MD had. Man, I pray FMC doesn't make that mistake.

They increased the clearance between the unison ring and the hub on the CRHA on later turbos to combat sticky unison rings, maybe it involved a small dimensional change in the ring.....

TSI Number: 97-12-17 TSI Date: September, 1997 Subject File: ENGINE SUBJECT Camshaft Position (CMP) Transducer Usage on International® T 444E Engines APPLIES TO Engine Family: T 444E DESCRIPTION The T 444E engine camshaft position (CMP) transducer (sensor) was changed to gold plated connector pins starting with 1996 1/2 Model Year (engine serial number 375549 and above). Prior model years use a CMP sensor with tin plated connector pins. Gold plated connector pins will help increase reliability and are compatible with the engine harness connector, which now has gold plated female connectors. CAUTION: DO NOT interchange the gold and tin plated pin CMP sensors. Engine failure could result. The CMP sensor's output is required to determine camshaft speed and position for the control of fuel quantity, injection timing and over-speed shutdown. See Part No. Identification Chart below. PART NO. IDENTIFICATION CHART CMP Sensor P/N (& Nose Length) Connector Type Model Year Eng. Serial Number 1825899C92 (1.142") Replaces: 1825899C91 (1.152") Gold Plated Gold Plated 1996 1/2 375549 & Above - - - - 1821720C98 (1.142") Replaces: 1821720C97 (1.152") 1821720C96 (1.152") Tin Plated Tin Plated Tin Plated Prior to 1996 1/2 375548 & Below - - - - - - - - The connector pins can be visually checked to determine the type of coating. The tin plated pins will have a grayish dull finish and the gold will be gold colored.

Fuel pressure under load is? IDS shows what cyls weak? Fill the secondary FF with Stanadyne and see how it runs.

Bad 80's haircut, and too much hair mousse?

And they're $10 or less per injector, IIRC.

My students tell me other aftermarket suppliers have picked them up, too, like Carquest and Napa. For Alliant you'll usually have to go to a pump shop.

I read that wrong at first, substituting an i in deck......

IIRC, the car with the 1/4" runout was a regular at our shop (it was a Nissan Sentra) and I believe we did all service to it. I don't think damage was caused by us or anyone else, I think we replaced a rotor(s?) and a caliper(s?) and shipped it. I remember the complaint being noise under braking and the rotor looked perfect to the eye, but we drove it in the air (FWD) and I was shocked to see how much runout it had. The cal was bobbing back and forth causing the noise, and there was absolutely no pulsation. I think the pedal was higher after we fixed it.You do believe in warpage, you are just calling it something else. Yes, we are agreeing and splitting hairs.I'll take you on any time, bro, come at me. I'll meet you in the parking lot after school. :twack:This is all in fun. I, of course, have the utmost respect for Keith. :notworthy:Another forum I belong to was just shut down because of serious fighting, namecalling, and other childish BS among the participants.

Welcome to DTS! I'm sure you'll find a lot of great help here without the censorship of FMC. Isn't the dipstick tube near there? I think some of the guys were having a cracked bracket on the tube mislead them on oil leaks making them think it was the glowplug harness. Double check it. For crankcase leaks, I take the shopvac outlet and use it to pressurize the crankcase (to about 1 psi) while the engine is running. This makes seepage leaks show up quickly in the bay. Good Luck!

These things are done in the states, right? It almost makes me think they paint them like that to protect them when they're in a container or the hold of a ship from overseas.... I remember GM's brand new Mexican 350's being the same way, coated so heavy with black paint you had to chase the threads and clean the bell flange for fear the tranny would come loose.

Being that the update requires a special flash, and flashes are VIN specific on IHs, it seems to me that this would not work on a Ford without special dispensation from the Pope, right?

IH states: Key On Engine Off Engine fuel pressure (min) 310 kPa (45 psi) Engine fuel pressure (max) 448 kPa (65 psi) Engine Cranking 20 seconds maximum crank time per attempt. Wait 2 to 3 minutes before repeating. Engine fuel pressure (min) 310 kPa (45 psi) Low idle, stabilized engine operating temperature Readings taken at 16 °C (60 °F) ambient temperature. Engine fuel pressure (min) 310 kPa (45 psi) Engine fuel pressure (max) 448 kPa (65 psi) High idle, stabilized engine operating temperature Engine fuel pressure (min) 310 kPa (45 psi) Engine fuel pressure (max) 448 kPa (65 psi) Full load, rated speed on chassis dynamometer or highway, stabilized engine operating temperature Engine fuel pressure (min) 310 kPa (45 psi) Engine fuel pressure (max) 448 kPa (65 psi) HTH Does yours have the recall/update with the FPS screwed into the FF housing?

Plus, there is a real problem with the 7.3 pickup that causes that- the suction relief valve breaks, causing the truck to run out of fuel when there's 1/3 of a tank in it. It is visible in this pic just above the bottom:

If it's complete with turbo, sensors, pump, etc, and appears OK on the outside I'd start at $500 and see what happens. Does the turbo pass a visual? Can you shoot some pictures of it and post them? You'll probably need them for CL or locals anyway. It should be W manifolds and round HPOP, not a bad combination. I think the '04s had the larger water pump, too, right? If I still had the shop I'd be considering it for the handy parts content. I've paid big money for core motors to make cutaways..... Any history on replaced parts like coolers, turbo, pumps, etc? Good Luck!

Call your locals, and put it in Craigslist. I doubt you'll have any trouble selling it, my guess is a few hundred bucks. Even large indy truck shops would be interested. Good Luck!

If I were you, I'd call Jasper Engine and Franklin Power Products and see if they had any interest. Also, look up your local engine rebuilders where shipping wouldn't be an issue, they're likely to give you something for it. I sold a Cat 3208 core for $500 a few years ago which shocked me. I assume it's a long block less injectors and turbo? Good Luck!