Bruce Amacker

FYI: When using copper on brake banjos, I always smack them moderately with a hammer and brass punch and retighten. I remember seeing them seep brake fluid brand new from the factory. It might not be a bad idea to do this on the fuel banjos.

It's too bad the FP on a 6.4 is only 5-6lbs or so. It seems leaks would show up better under more pressure, like jacking the FPR up. Soooooo, in a theoretical world, what would it take to run the motor with the cab up?

Keith, I agree totally, what you are stating is what experience teaches. One of my favorite sayings is that you must learn to "read between the lines" of the service manual.

10-4. I misunderstood the OP. Thanks,

OK, I've having trouble envisioning this. The cab is up, you're jumpering power to the HFCM and running the engine for 2-3 minutes without coolant to check for fuel leaks. This seems like a great idea but seems like there's a ton of stuff that needs to be hooked up to do this, isn't there? The PCM is in the cowl, so you're yanking it and hanging it on top of the engine? How about PS, trans and misc lines- no belt? Trans cooler? Misc harnesses that are needed to run it? I like the idea, please give me a short list of what needs to be jumpered to make it work. Thanks!

No, I'm a cross breed that plays with other makes too. Carlisle was the Corvette show this past weekend and I have a VW Karmann Ghia also. '69 Mach CJ is a fiiiiinnnnneeee car in my opinion......

About the way I felt when the fuel pump pivot pin fell out of my Vette on I-75 just north of Detroit last Friday afternoon.

My fondest memory is of one that another shop put 2 or 3 secondary pumps on that lasted only a few weeks 'cause they didn't know there was a primary pump. Yea, I remember those POS. They made me buy a ProLink IBOB (intelligent breakout box) which took raw data from the PCM and gave you data stream through the scan tool, but only after you hooked it up. I'm 6'5". Remember where the fucking PCM was on a Tempo? (For you young'uns, IIRC Ford made a PFI with no data stream from '85ish to '88 or '92 or something. What a frigging diagnostic disaster- no MIL, either IIRC) Talk about learning the hard way, being thrown into something like that. OBD2 is a frigging cakewalk in comparison, even the worst one you've worked on. Count the needle sweeps........

OK, I surrender on the time base. Also, if it is a gasser with returnless this obviously does not apply. IH just went to electric pumps on their engines this year and I'm curious what we'll see with them. They are in an aluminum housing attached to the FF up front on the engine, which is not a great place for an electric pump (pull vs. push).

OK, agreed, I've seen this before, too, but I still maintain that if this is the case the FP or regulator (probably the pump) is compromised. One of the things I teach in class is how important fuel return flow is. If the pump is strong, there will be considerable return flow, probably between a pint and a quart (measured by removing the return hose at the tank) in 30 seconds. If the pump is weak, return flow will be the first thing that suffers even though pressure still meets specs. It is very common for a FP to meet pressure specs but not have sufficient return flow. On a good vehicle with an electric pump, (this can be either gas or diesel) when the key is turned on and the electric pump is energized, within about two seconds the entire pressurized system is flushed of warm fuel and cool fuel is fed through, and returned to the tank. My opinion is unchanged. If the FP does not immediately prime the system, it is likely the FP flow is weak. If you measure return flow this will be identified. This is also a great test to diag/verify clogged screens in the 7.3 pickup assy. You've never seen a weak FP on a 6.0?

IMHO, there is NO WAY a good FP should struggle to prime the system in a couple of seconds. This should be a red flag your FP is retiring.

Went to the Carlisle car show, sorry for the late response. Yes, on rare occasion I've seen cam walk issues but not a pattern failure. It looks like you've found your problem. I can loan you the tool if you can't find one to borrow.

Those pumps look really cheesy to me and I wouldn't be surprised if we end up changing them regularly.

I put a .010" shim in it and it will fire and die, it won't stay running. Do you mean overlay all three wires? Wow, that's big info, it should run with a .010". They're not the same, IIRC the gray is .020" shorter. Do you have access to a CMP depth gauge? I'm wondering about cam walk, among a bunch of other things...... Yes, I'd overlay all 3.

The first thing I do when I walk into the shop is put on safety glasses and rubber gloves. Do I look like a dork? You betcha.

If it's setting the 344 as it stalls, try putting some CMP shims in and see if that changes things. Usually the CMP code sets from extended cranking. I'm also thinking of RFI/EMI interference. If you don't want to put an overlay harness in it try isolating the signal wire with small polyloom....

Did you check FP at both heads?

1. Remove LF bleeder screw. 2. Hold your finger over the hole. 3. Have helper push on pedal briskly to the floor, note the flow and velocity of the brake fluid. Put the screw back in. 4. Repeat for the other side and verify flow and velocity are similar. 5. If these seem the same, clamp off rear brake hose to axle and GENTLY go for a ride after verifying cable brake works. USE COMMON SENSE. See if your pull is present. 6. If pull is present, (Edit- flat rate reading!)- change calipers from side to side. This can be done by bleeding the caliper before it is bolted to the spindle, since the cals should be identical except for bleeder location. (I now see you already swapped pads L2R) The last one I had like this was a fucking bad front wheel bearing, after they changed every part under the sun (ABS, calipers, pads, lines, etc.). Did you look at the wheel bearings or are they unitized? Good Luck!

You have a ground loop of .02v or so which is not to be concerned with, it's common. With your IPW too high (considerably) and your MFDES too high I'm still thinking injectors. Did you try Stanadyne?

A lot is a very generic term. I usually drain the FF housing and fill it with Stanadyne and see if it runs better. This is against all mfr recommendations, but if I were working on the truck I'd put at least a couple of bottles in the tank and see how it ran. If it runs better, either the fuel is bad or the injectors are bad. Good Luck!

PW is off the map, making me look harder at the injectors. Did you check FP at both heads? Try a LOT of Stanadyne and see if it runs better. Do you have a history on the injectors, have they been changed?

Yow, tough one. If you can scope the CMP while driving I don't think it would be time wasted. See if you can monitor your MFDES and FPW just before stalling. FPW- Fuel Pulse Width- usually 1.5-2.5 idling. I'm not going to rule out injectors on this one. Good Luck!

I belong to a VW forum, and you wouldn't believe the guys who give advice, that have no business giving advice. Especially on electrical problems......

What's a shaker? Keef posted a pic of cleaning a DPF in the backyard years ago but I can't find it. If it were mine I'd be doing it on the cheap for maintenance.

Welcome to DTS! You'll find a lot of help here from very well seasoned technicians, and there's a lot of Canadians here, too. Just watch out for Grandpa, he bites. Alex is requesting where to have a maintenance cleaning of his DPF performed, not unclog a coked or face plugged unit. He needs a standard (cold) cleaning to remove normal accumulations of ash, which would be an air pulse style unit done cold. If it were clogged with combustible coke/carbon deposits it would need to be baked in an oven, but this is not his case. In my travels I have found places to clean and bake MD/HD units, but rarely to fit auto/LD units. Usually car/LDs are sealed in some kind of screwy housing not meant to be serviced, like the 6.7's one piece nightmare. MD/HD units are all made to be serviced on a regular basis, cars and LDs are not. Bummer. I just inspected a brand new DPF cleaner at the City of Lakewood today, which makes three that I know of in the Cleveland area. They have it hooked up and ready to go and are waiting for the company to come out and demo it for them. I should be present when this is done with camera in hand. Oddly enough, none of them are set up for doing retail service, only their own fleets, and at least two of them were funded with EPA money! IH has a "DPF cleaner locater map" on their website, with the next closest cleaner in Youngstown. Who knows of DPF cleaners near them? Keith: IH shows none in Joisey, but 3 in NY: BERGEN NY (585) 494-0140 DAVID WARREN REGIONAL INTL CORP 790261 - 000 1007 LEHIGH STATION RD HENRIETTA NY 1007 LEHIGH STATION RD HENRIETTA NY (585) 359-2011 WAYNE WARNER STADIUM INTL S & S, LLC 815845 - 000 P.O. BOX 2848 SYRACUSE NY 105 7TH NORTH STREET LIVERPOOL NY