Bruce Amacker

The screens are to protect the pump, not be a final filter.....

There's a guy I know well in Mass who some of you might know from IATN, his name is Rusty Savignac. I've done classes at his shop, seen him at countless conferences, been to dinner with him and his wife Midge, met him on vacations. He's president of his local automotive association (NESSARA). He's a straight shooter, a class act, not a bullshitter. His shop is in a sleepy little town called Paxton, Mass, which is not much more than a bend in the road. His daughter works in an office down the street from his shop. A couple of years ago his daughter was looking out the window at work and noticed a guy having trouble with his Toyota pickup on the side of the road, she noticed the driver had gotten out of the vehicle in front of her place of work and was walking around the truck, inspecting it. Without much to see he got back into the truck and pulled away, she states, in way too much of a hurry, as if he was peeling the tires. A few hundred yards down the street Rusty was in the parking lot of his shop inspecting a customer's car when this Toyota truck came roaring past at WOT, failed to make the next curve and disintegrated into a tree killing the driver. Rusty and his daughter state this is way too weird of a coincidence- this guy knew "something" was up but continued on anyway, and perhaps this decision cost him his life. I'm not sure what's wrong with these Toyotas but I think there's "something" to it, and more than floor mats getting caught in the gas pedal. I agree that a simple reflash should fix it by disabling the throttle when the brake is pressed, but what is the root problem? Believe me, I'm watching this problem. I drive one of these heaps and have considerable interest in this........

I'm not so sure I agree with that.....

They've been spraying fuel on the tip of the glowplug for ignition for a long time. It obviously does both, but it's a trick question to word it as only to ignite the fuel. I'd complain to FMC and see if they'll change your score.

The tank sender is not designed to be disassembled and serviced but I know people who have. The sender is pretty big money and rarely in stock, too. Pull the sender, it will have a large white plastic housing on it with the filters inside. Be gentle with the tabs taking it apart, also the o-ring is not available. Good Luck!

That's one of my favorites, too, but stated as, "Poor planning on your part does not necessarily constitute an immediate emergency on my part."

The check ball (plug) in the side of the HPOP could be leaking or missing. I heard of a cracked block through that oil passageway (between reservoir and HPOP)in an '03 but that's a long shot. I'd inspect the filter housing check valve, too, there's been a run on them lately. I might put some solvent or diesel fuel in the reservoir overnight and see if it goes away. Good Luck!

It sounds like it has air in the lines to me. Don't change any parts until you do the proper diagnostics- if it has RABS (and it probably does) look for a rubber plug or aluminum cap that can be removed at one end of the big "wheel cylinder" looking thing (RABS accumulator and hold/dump valves) on the frame rail under the driver. Remove the rubber plug or metal cap and stick a piece of coathanger (or similar feeler) inside and have an assistant push on the brake pedal. If the dump valve is stuck open, when the guy pushes on the brake pedal the piston inside will move and that is your problem. It should not move unless the truck is in an ABS stop. I've worked on so many old shitty trucks and had so many arguments over this with my techs I can tell you that most of the time it's air, not a bad RABS valve. In the process of changing the RABS valve the system is properly bled out, fixing the problem. I remember only changing one RABS valve in my life, and that was for a different issue. Other tips: 1. Put a flare plug in the MC ports or the RABS outlet and see if you can still push the pedal to the floor. 2. Disconnect the big rear feeder line that feeds the rear axle and hand bleed it at the rear "tee", 90% of the time this fixes the trouble. IIRC, this sucker is 1/4" or something big and bubbles tend to hang out in it. 2a. If someone has already changed the brake lines, make sure they are run like OE and don't have big fucking loops in them. 3. Remember that if the shoes are new or not seating into the drum properly, or the pads are worn crooked it will also cause this problem. 4. I hate doing this, but you can also clamp off the flex hoses and see if you can push the pedal to the floor to isolate your problem. 5. Check your vacuum and make sure it meets specs. 6. Remember the RABS assy also has a bleeder on it. Good Luck!

When I had the shop I always made sure I was the most expensive independent shop around, when people called price shopping I made sure I told them this. We did regular work for other shops nearby because they knew we could fix anything and we had all OEM scan tools and HD software.

When I had the shop, a new customer walked in and asked me how much to replace the bad trans in his aging Buick RWD. I quoted $XXX and he brought me the car with a boneyard tranny in the trunk. We swapped it in and test drove it. The tranny worked fine but the rear CV was wasted causing a severe vibration under load. I informed the cust of this and he told me that's why he was changing the tranny. We fixed the CV at additional cost but he learned (or maybe didn't learn, some people never do) a valuable lesson....

What does it come stock in? Great junkyard search engine: http://www.car-part.com/ Good Luck!

I've seen fine hairline cracks that overfuel, and catastrophic failures like this one. I have several pics like this, I think Damon shot this one. I have a customer in the UK with a bunch of rental DT466E gensets that kept having this problem caused by the rental customers not keeping the fuel tanks full. The TSI doesn't apply to the 6.0 (VT365) but you gotta believe the principles of hydraulics do....

IH has a TSI letter out on several HEUI engines stating that improper fuel system bleeding (after a filter change or opening the system) allows air into the injector plunger area which allows the plunger to descend too quickly. As there is usually some fuel in the chamber along with the air, the pressure rise is too fast for the fuel to be delivered through the nozzle orifices and the pressure rise splits the injector tips. I've seen it a few times and it's REALLY fugly. This will also happen if the truck is run out of fuel and not properly primed. It usually splits the injector tip off requiring a head, piston, sleeve(?), etc. I have pics, I'll see if I can find them. Ugh! TSI Number: 04-12-01R Replace: 04-12-01 TSI Date: June, 2004 Subject File: ENGINE SUBJECT Correct Fuel System Priming Procedure To Prevent Injector Tip Failures APPLIES TO Engine Family: DT 466 DT 466E 530E DT 530 DESCRIPTION Because "dry starts" cause injector tip failures, a procedure that primes the fuel system before starting the engine must be followed. When the fuel injection system is dry after engine service, cranking the engine to start without first priming the fuel system will result in an overload condition in the injector tips. This overload occurs because there is no fuel present to cushion the needle valve as it lifts and seats. To avoid this condition, follow the procedure below after performing any maintenance, including fuel filter replacement that may allow air to enter the fuel system. FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING PROCEDURE WARNING: Always place transmission in neutral, apply parking brake, and chock the wheels prior to engaging the engine starter. Failure to do so could result in unexpected vehicle movement and cause property damage, personal injury, or death. CAUTION: Do not start the engine without priming the fuel system. 1. Disconnect the injector harness at the valve cover. 2. Use the hand primer to fill the fuel system. NOTE: Pump until hand primer is hard to depress. 3. Crank the engine three times for 15 seconds each. Re-apply the hand primer after each crank cycle. 4. Once the hand primer remains hard to depress after the 15 second crank, reconnect the injector harness and start the engine. 5. Clear fault codes 513 (low side to bank 1 open) and 514 (low side to bank 2 open) that was logged by cranking the engine with the injector harness disconnected.

1. You need as much business advice here as technical advice. 2. If he pays you, you'll be able to afford the IDS you so desperately need. 3. Are you the shop owner or the tech? Your profile shows you to be the tech. Present the list of recommendations to the shop owner and cust and let them figure it out. If you're the shop owner, proceed very carefully..... Good Luck! You know about the aft axle water TSB, right?

Keith has done us all a favor and confirmed this anomaly in the PCED. Yes, on Cab&Chassis, the EGT numbering is skewed- The EGT sensors go as follows: 11, 12, 14, 13. More precisely, 11-DOC inlet, 12-DPF inlet, 14-SCR inlet and 13 SCR outlet. I believe it is 11, 12, 13, and 14 on pickups. Remember that the order of the components is different on pickups and C&C- the cab and chassis is DOC, DPF, mixer, SCR cat. On a pickup it's DOC, mixer, SCR cat, DPF. I just wanted to let you all know that this is not a typo in the PCED. Thanks, Keith!

About 75 and sunny, I went for a nice bike ride yesterday down to the boat launch park and watched the sun set. Forecast for the next few days is near 80. I hear they're getting a lot of snow up north......

There were some problems with the wastegate actuators adjusted extremely wrong at the factory. I don't know if this would cause your trouble......

The latest report is the upper and lower oil pans are off, the pickup tube is intact, the o-rings between the pickup tube and the upper pan and upper pan and block all look fine. The tech and shop owner are not happy campers at this point. I suggested rechecking the pump and perhaps pulling a vacuum up top while cranking to help it prime. The shop owner stated he had already tried that but had a DSA (Dumb Shit Attack) and forgot to crank it while the vacuum was applied. I don't know what their next step will be but I will keep you all informed.....

I'm under the impression they regen the left bank only to prevent coking the EGR system on the right bank. As I tear down my demo engine I'll pay attention to see if there's a visual difference between the two banks.

The pump was only replaced once, with the original gear pictured. The front cover was not replaced. Thanks!

The tech has reported the upper and lower pans are off with no problems found.

Wow, tough one. I'd check the suspension bushings real closely on both the rear axle and front axle, especially spring eye bushings and wheel bearing adjustment on all 4. I'd probably also have someone follow me on the highway and watch the truck as it was wallowing around to identify what's loose. I'm assuming radials all 6, and tire pressures are correct? If no problems were found I would borrow 4 rear tires from another truck and try them. Good Luck!

I remember this as an '06 so the ball doesn't apply, plus if the ball were missing ('03-4) it would still fill the filter housing. I agree the witness marks are not enough to stop the LPOP from working, but I was alluding to the fact that those pieces might give a hint to the "real" problem. Thanks for responding!

There is zero base oil pressure, because the LPOP will not prime. It will not fill the oil filter housing. I think this is a different set of circumstances from your truck... Thanks for responding!

He did that, as well as jacking up the back of the truck to see if it would help the primning situation. Thanks for responding!