Bruce Amacker

I remember a video on YouTube of a 7.3 (IIRC) running 100PSI of boost that split the block open right through the cylinders. It was also on a tractor pull rig, I think.....

I forgot to mention the tech did replace the regulator while doing the repair. I asked if the regulator bore was scored and if the spool slid smoothly with no response. This info is from the shop owner, but not the tech directly. I'm still somewhat baffled why the pump won't prime. Even if he installed it dry, with the pan overfilled, ass end jacked up and filter out, it "should" prime.... Has anyone seen a pickup tube break on a 6.0 like 7.3s did? It might be getting the pan pulled next, but I was thinking about applying some kind of vacuum up top while cranking to help it prime.... Thanks for the input, guys.

'06 F-model, died on the road "like you turned the key off" states the driver. No oil pressure, won't fill the filter housing. Tech pulls the LPOP to find this picture, and replaced the oil pump. New pump won't prime, still won't fill the filter even with the pan overfilled and jacked up. 1. What do you think went through this pump? 2. Is it related to the oil pressure problem? Thanks!

Steamed is good, but grilled is better. Even indoors in winter my wife uses a "grill pan" which is a shallow flat ribbed pan, puts a teaspoon of olive oil on it, the asparagus, and some spices to taste. It's awesome. Have fun!

Are you sure about that? That's not the case in Cleveland. In my area we still burn a lot of coal for our power, and they have spent millions of dollars for scrubber equipment to clean up the power plant emissions. Landfills which have been in operation for a long time are being closed down and replaced by landfills with huge vinyl liners to contain liquid runoff and methane gas collection systems.

Did you check the fuel pressure? You need to treat the engine like it's an IH truck and use IH engine software to diagnose it. (Master Diagnostics, Saint, or ServiceMaxx) Good Luck!

In my experience the biggest reason taps break is because they are worn or dull and I push them too hard. If you use a brand new sharp tap it's much less likely to break. I buy good US taps but not always the top brands....

I don't own the rights to it, I found it on the 'net. Being the guy posted it on the net he can hardly expect people to not enjoy it and share it. I would not feel you were violating him too terribly if you shared it privately and did not use it commercially. I'm sure by now it's been printed and hanging on a thousand toolboxes and bulletin boards around the world. I don't know who drew it, but he was very creative.... Edit: http://xkcd.com/730/ This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 2.5 License. This means you're free to copy and share these comics (but not to sell them).

Here, I drew it out for you, this should make it very clear:

Too much time on your hands, eh Keith?

Take the torch with a small or medium cutting head on it. Put it into the hole for about 10 seconds or less until you think (or see) the chunk is glowing. Hit the lever and a shower of sparks will confirm all is well. I've done this a few times but I've seen guys blow broken bolts out so clean that a new bolt would thread right in without chasing it. Try it on a scrap head first if you're queasy about it. The physics is like this- the head won't burn because there is too much mass there to raise up to melting or burning temp quickly. Because the tap chunk is sitting there and weighs less than a gram it heats up to the "glow point" rather quickly. As long as you work quickly the head never has a chance to get hot enough to burn. I feel especially confident you can do this successfully because the piece is loose in the hole. It's a counting game- I'm guessing 8-10 seconds, then hit the lever. Practice first on a couple if you're not sure- put a BB in a thread hole and try it. Good Luck!

I've had a couple of Cummins run away, but not PSDs. Having 855 inches twisting 4-5000RPM is quite an eye opener....

I haven't tried it, but it should go without much trouble. If it's too tight, drop the tranny crossmember down (pretty easy), this will give more access on the top of the turbo. Good Luck!

You can do it with a cutting torch easily, too, if you have a decent eye and common sense. Good Luck!

8"+ here and still snowing. The snowblower is electric start and my wife's been keeping up with it.

Call your local wrecker builder, they should know tank suppliers.

I was hoping Ford would come through with a free donor engine for me but after waiting a year with no results I began watching the junkyards (car-part.com) for one. I had estimated to myself $10K for the engine and 3K for accessories for a total of $13K. The one I found was a wrecking yard in the DC area and they listed the engine for $6500. I called him with my list and we agreed on $8250 for everything. (There's another 6.7 in TN for $9350 right now) I thought it was a good deal, so my wife and I drove down Sunday, visited her brother who lives nearby, picked up the parts yesterday and drove back. It's almost 6 hrs each way, not too bad. I think it was worth the trip. I asked the yard guys if the driver made it and they responded with "we don't like to think about that". I looked at it hoping with no blood maybe there was noone inside, but with the airbag deployed that meant the key was on and cutting the roof off meant there was someone inside. Man, that thing was creamed. There's not much usable besides the rear axle. The front drive axle was hammered and maybe not usable, the transfer case was broken, Even the motor was beat up- secondary WP broken, oil filter adapter broken, both oil pans broken, etc, FP housing broken (even though it has a bash guard around it) so there will be some parts I either have to repair or buy. That thing was frigging HIT.

1. Only charge batteries that are low, and beware of the charge rate so you don't toast them. The output of a charger is enough to charge batteries but not spin a diesel with low batteries. Just make sure your batteries are good and RPM is acceptable. Having a pair of known good batteries on a "jump cart" hooked up is a good idea. 2. Never have the charger on while doing scope tests, it causes way too much stray EMI/RFI/noise. Frequently even having a 110v droplight nearby is enough to really screw up your waveforms! I know high end trainers that will not have a 110v cord within 20 feet of the car while they are scoping. I've seen it plenty of times, it's no joke.

I'm "usually" quick to respond but your original post was on Jan 4, the day I had surgery......

I doubt sludge on the pin would make any difference in the signal. The double peak on your waveforms looks like low cranking speed, it should be 175+ cold, 215 warm. The waveforms look identical to my known good samples otherwise. Here's my "Sync" notes: CRANK NO START with NO SYNC or NO FICMSYNC PIDs on 6.0L Diesel Some 03-07 6.0L-equipped vehicles may experience a crank no start, a runs rough concern or stalling with cam or crank sensor codes. Viewing the SYNC and FICMSYNC PIDs in Datalogger will help diagnose this issue. The SYNC PID will show Yes when the CKP and CMP signals are synchronized to the PCM. The FICMSYNC PID will show Yes when the CKPO and CMPO signals are synchronized to the FICM. Symptoms from a loss of SYNC or FICMSYNC or erratic SYNC or FICMSYNC can include: • Crank no start with SYNC No and FICMSYNC No. • Crank no start with SYNC Yes and FICMSYNC No. • Crank no start with SYNC No and FICMSYNC Yes. • Crank no start with erratic SYNC or FICM SYNC switching from No to Yes. • Vehicle stalling, running rough or missing with SYNC or FICM SYNC switching from Yes to No. For any of these issues, follow the diagnostics listed below. The PCM needs both cam and crank signals to produce a SYNC=Yes. If SYNC=No with a P2614 or P2617, there is most likely a fault with the associated sensor or circuit. Note: If there are any CAM or Crank codes stored in PCM, run the PPT for those codes before continuing with this procedure. A bad sensor or circuit should be able to be isolated with the appropriate PPT. Possible Causes: • Bad cam sensor • Bad crank sensor • Signal short to power • Signal short to ground • Open circuit • PCM • FICM • Cam (CMP) Gear or Pin • Crankshaft (CKP) Tone Wheel Note: The RPM PID can be a good quick indicator or CKP wheel wobble or slop. The RPM PID can read erratically when there is wobble or slop. The scope will also show this issue with variations in CKP signal amplitude. This signal should be fairly consistent at a steady RPM with the exception of the missing tooth. The IDS oscilloscope is the most accurate device available to check for this type of concern. If there is no oscilloscope available, you can use a DVOM with HZ and Vac settings but it is not as accurate and an oscilloscope is highly recommended. The oscilloscope diagnostics and setup are below. Oscilloscope Diagnostic Procedure for CKP and CMP This will check both the crank (CKP) and cam (CMP) signals into the PCM. Note: The easiest way but not the only way to access the PCM signals is to use a 104 Pin Break-Out-Box (BOB) and an adapter T sold by Rotunda (1-800-ROTUNDA) attached to the middle (46-Pin) connector on the PCM. This allows for easy access to all signals. Oscilloscope Channel Setup: • Select Oscilloscope Tools and then Oscilloscope from the IDS toolbox. • Connect the VMM to the vehicle and the computer to the VMM as shown in the hookup. • Connect the red probe to C1 on the VMM and then into pin 30, and the black probe to C2 on the VMM and then into pin 31 of the middle PCM connector (1381c), (176c for E-Series). Go to the next step if using a BOB. (You can leave the connector unplugged from the PCM and just probe into the connector. The engine will still crank). Use the IDS probe kit for cranking signals or the IDS Universal probe (T-015) can be used for running engine signals leaving c1381c or 176c connected. • Select channel one Auto, then CKP-6.OL Diesel and go the next step (If auto is not available select Manual, Red Probe, 5volts/div, or 20 ms/div if the engine will start). • Select channel two Auto, then CMP-6.OL diesel and go to next step (If auto is not available select Manual, Black Probe, 500mvolts/div and 100ms/div time-base settings). If the engine will start, change only the time-base to 100ms/dv. Move the channel two trigger approximately half a division vertically up and about three divisions right horizontally. • Turn the key to on with the engine off and then select Trigger, Type, one Shot and then select the Red Man to turn the scope on. The Red Man will turn to a Green Running Man with the test “Waiting for trigger” in the status area below the signal display. If One Shot is already running when you key up, One Shot will have to be restarted because an unwanted waveform will be captured from the key state change. • Open the oscilloscope screen to full and crank or start the engine • One Shot will capture the waveforms automatically. (Turn One Shot off to view the signals live). • The yellow signal is the CKP and the green signal is the CMP. If CKP and CMP look similar to what is shown below then continue with the rest of diagnosis otherwise stop here and fix the problem signal. • If the scope does not trigger, reset the trigger points on the second channel and verify that the connections at the PCM connector are solid. If it still won’t trigger, then there is no signal getting to the scope. Oscilloscope Diagnostic Procedure for CKPO and CMPO Oscilloscope Channel Setup: • Select Oscilloscope Tools and then Oscilloscope from the IDS toolbox. • Connect the VMM to the vehicle and the computer to the VMM as shown in the hookup. • Connect the red probe to the C1 on the VMM and then into pin 19, and the black probe to C2 on the VMM and then into pin 20 of the middle PCM connector (1381c), (175c for E-Series). (You can leave the connector unplugged from the PCM and just probe into the connector. The engine will still crank). Use the IDS probe kit for cranking signals or the IDS Universal probes (T-015) can be used for running engine signals leaving c1381c connected. • Select channel one Auto, then CKPO-Diesel 6.0L (or Manual, Red Probe, 5 volts/div, 20ms/div for an engine that will start. • Select channel two Auto, then CMPO-Diesel 6.0L (or Manual, Black Probe, 5 volts/div, 20ms/div for an engine that will start) or 100ms/div for an engine that will only crank. • Turn the key to on with the engine off and select Trigger, Type, One Shot and then select the Red Man to turn the scope on. The Red Man will turn to a Green Running Man with the text “Waiting for trigger” in the status area below the signal display. If One Shot is already running when you key up, One Shot will have to be restarted because an unwanted waveform will be captured from the key state change. • Open the oscilloscope screen to full and crank or start the engine. • One shot will capture the waveforms automatically. (Turn One Shot off to view the signals live). • The red signal is the CKPO and the blue signal is the CMPO. (The signal colors will be orange and red when using channels one and two) Note: Focus on the relationship between CKPO and CMPO. Both CKPO and CMPO signals could be present and valid, but the FICMSYNC could still read NO. If the signals are out of time with each other, check to see if the crankshaft tone ring has slipped on the crank and also to see if the camshaft pin or gear has loosened on the camshaft. Those are the most likely causes for the FICMSYNC signal to be out of time. See screen shot below for proper relationship. Note: All four signals can be viewed at the same time using all four ports on the VMM but to simplify the explanation of the hookup instructions, ports 1 and 2 (red and black probe) are discussed in this write-up. If using all four channels, you would need to use the ignition probes for the VMM and set the channel to A, B, C, or D depending on which probe you use. DVOM Diagnostic Procedure (Only if an oscilloscope is not available) Note: Only use this procedure if an oscilloscope is not available. The data can be a lot harder to interpret using a DVOM. Cranks NO Start: SYNC=No and/or FICM SYC=No NOTE: Before starting the following diagnostics, remove the driver side battery and cover up the positive battery cable head to prevent arcing. Procedure for SYNC=NO with no, low or erratic RPM (possible p2617) • Disconnect the center connector from the PCM (1381c), (176c for E-Series) • Set the DVOM to frequency to take a HZ reading, can also set it to A/C volts. • A valid HZ reading is 150 to 190HZ and be steady. The A/C voltage should be at least .6 volts and steady as well. • If there are no, low, or erratic readings then check the CKP sensor and wiring per pinpoint test D8. If there is a valid reading then go to the next procedure below. Procedure for SYNC=NO with RPM (possible p2614) • Disconnect the center connector from the PCM (1381c), (176c for E-Series). • To check the CMP signal, hook up a DVOM to pins 31 and 43 of the 1381c or 176c connector. • Set the DVOM to frequency to take a HZ reading. You can also set it to A/C volts. • A valid HZ reading is around 1.1 to 1.6 HZ. If checking A/C volts, the voltage will fluctuate and it should go over 1 volt as it fluctuates. • If there is no or a low reading, check the CMP sensor and wiring per pinpoint test V4. If the sensor and circuit check out, remove the sensor and inspect the end for signs of the cam pin striking it. If it is damaged then the cam pin has backed out and struck the sensor and the camshaft needs to be replaced. • If the cam and crank sensors and circuits all check out or have been replaced and still SYNC=No, replace the PCM and retest. NOTE: The readings on the DVOM from the CMP will fluctuate a lot, because there is only one timing peg that comes around for every two engine revolutions. Procedure for SYNC = YES and FICM SYNC = NO Note: If SYNC=YES, it only means that there is good cam and crank signals to the PCM. If there is a wire issue between the PCM and FICM or if the signals are out of time, the FICM SYNC will be NO or may intermittently jump from YES to NO. • The center connector of the PCM will have to be connected. • While cranking the engine over, make sure that the FICM V and FICM L powers are above 10.5 volts and the FICM M power is around 48 volts at all times. • The pins 19 and 20 of the center PCM connector 1381c or 176c will have to be back probed. • Pin 19 is the CKPO circuit. To check it, set the DVOM to HZ and connect it from the pin 19 to ground. The HZ signal should match the CKP reading of around 150-190 HZ. • Pin 20 is the CMPO circuit. To check it, set the DVOM to HZ and connect it from the pin 20 to ground. The HZ signal should match the CMP reading of around 1.1 to 1.6. • If there are incorrect readings at either pin, run through the SYNC tests above for the appropriate output sensor (CKP or CMP) before replacing the PCM. • If there are correct readings at both pins at the PCM connector, pins 5 and 10 of the FICM connector 1388c will have to be back probed. • Pin 5 is the CKPO circuit (150-190 HZ) and pin 10 is the CMPO circuit (1.1-1.6HZ). Repeat the steps listed above. All readings should be the same at the PCM and the FICM connectors. • If there are no or low readings at the FICM connector, there is a wire problem between the PCM and the FICM. If there is a valid HZ reading at both CMPO and CKPO pins into the FICM, check all powers/grounds at the FICM and if good, try a known good FICM and retest. NOTE: Mechanical timing issues can only be diagnosed after all of the above diagnostics have been performed. If all of the above diagnostics have been performed and there is still a FICM SYNC issue, then there is a mechanical timing concern. The two parts of the engine that can cause timing issues are the crankshaft tone wheel and/or the crank gear. • If the vehicle is a crank no start and has timing concerns with the tone wheel, then usually the scan tool will not complete a relative compression test with a SYNC error. • If the vehicle starts and runs rough the FICM SYNC concerns go to the power balance function and click on the enhanced button (has a # symbol on it). If the engine smooths out, there is a tone wheel concern. • If the vehicle will start only off of an alternative fuel source (silicone spray) and then runs fine, there is likely a cam gear concern. NOTE: The tone wheel is located in the crankcase and is pressed onto the crankshaft. Therefore, to inspect it for looseness or damage, the oil pan will need to be removed. If the tone wheel is damaged or loose, the crankshaft needs to be replaced. • Before starting the following diagnostics, remove the driver side battery and cover up the positive battery cable lead to prevent arcing. Procedure for SYNC = no WITH NO rpm (possible p2617) • Disconnect the center connector from the PCM (1381c), (186c for E-series). • To check the CKP signal, hook up a DVOM to pins 30 (CKP+) and 41 (CKP-) of the 1381c or 176c connector. • Set the DVOM to frequency to take a HZ reading or set the DVOM to Vac and look at AC volts. • A valid HZ reading will be around 600 HZ and will fluctuate higher and lower. The AC voltage should be around 3 volts and will also fluctuate. • If there are no readings then check the CKP sensor and wiring per pinpoint test D8. If there is a valid reading then go the next procedure below. • Reference the 6.01 oscilloscope setup document. Procedure for SYNC = NO with RPM (possible p2614) • Disconnect the center connector from the PCM (1381c), (176c for E-Series). • To check the CMO signal, hook up a DVOM to pins 31 and 43 of the 1381c or 176c connector. • Set the DVOM to frequency to take a HZ reading, can also set it to A/C volts. • A valid HZ reading is around 1.1 to 1.6 HZ. The A/C voltage will fluctuate and it should go over 1 volt as it fluctuates. • If there is no reading, then check the CMP sensor and wiring per pinpoint test V4. If the sensor and circuit check out, remove the sensor and inspect the end for signs of the cam pin striking it. If it has, then the cam pin has backed out and the camshaft needs to be replaced. • If the cam and crank sensors and circuits all check out and still no sync, replace the PCM and retest. • The signal is best checked with the oscilloscope. Reference the 6.01 o-scope setup document. Note: The readings on the DVOM from the CMP will fluctuate a lot, because there is only one timing peg that comes around for every two engine revolutions. Procedure for SYNC = YES and FICMSYNC = NO Note: If SYNC=YES, it only means that there is a good cam and crank signal to the PCM. If there is a wire issue between the PCM and FICM or if the signals are out of time, the FICM SYNC will be NO or may intermittently jump fro YES to NO. • The center connector of the PCM will have to be connected. • While cranking, make sure that the FICM_V and FICM_L powers are above 10.5 volts and the FICM_M power is around 48 volts at all times. • The pins 19 and 20 of the center PCM connector 1381c or 176c will have to be back probed. • Pin 19 is the CKPO circuit. To check it, set the DVOM to HZ and connect it from the pin 19 to ground. The HZ signal should match the CKP reading of around 150-190 HZ. • Pin 20 is the CMPO circuit. To check it, set the DVOM to HZ and connect it from the pin 20 to ground. The HZ signal should match the CMP reading of around 1.1 to 1.6. • If there are incorrect readings at either pin, run through the SYNC tests above for the appropriate output sensor (CKP or CMO) before replacing the PCM. • If there are correct readings at both pins at the PCM connector, pins 5 and 10 of the FICM connector 1388c will have to be back probed. • Pin 5 is the CKPO circuit and pin 10 in CMPO circuit. Repeat the steps listed above. All readings should be the same at the PCM and the FICM connectors. • If there are not readings at the FICM connector, there is a wire problem. If there is a valid HZ reading at both CMPO and CKPO pins into the FICM, replace the FICM. Using a scan tool, verify the SYNC PID says YES when the engine is running. SYNC is mostly from the CKP sensor. It is possible to have NO CMP signal and still show YES for SYNC! No SYNC and no RPM signal is usually a CKP problem. No SYNC with an RPM signal may be the CMP. I have heard of 2 that gave CMP/CKP synch error codes. One was a wiped crank thrust bearing that let the crank walk forward and back causing the codes. Another was a loose crank trigger wheel on the front of the crank- tough diag!Check the RPM PID while running and see if it looks erratic, and check end play in the crank. One of the DTS members had a DM flywheel causing Sync problems (early manual trans). Diagnose SYNC problems first FICM SYNC should read YES KOER. The FICM SYNC circuit relays info from the PCM to the FICM through 2 wiring circuits, CKPO and CMPO. FICM SYNC problems can be a bad CKP, CMP (electrical or mechanical), PCM, FICM, or harness. Change SYNC and FICM sync into a bar graph and check it for being erratic. Both Syncs change to YES while cranking, but FICM SYNC is first. Good Luck!

Thanks, Keith!

OK, yea, I'm boring and predictable, but I guess there's worse titles to have in life. You're right, I found a wrecking yard with a fresh hit 6.7 and bought everything I need for great cutaways in class- engine assy, intercooler, secondary radiator, FP, fuel cooler, DEF tank, NOx module, and complete aftertreatment system. It was a 250 with a bed so it has the dual impeller turbo, and man, was it hit hard! I didn't see any blood in the cab but the FD cut the roof off to extricate the driver. There's virtually nothing usable in the complete cab assy and the driveline even took hard hits breaking things like driveshaft flanges and other not-so-soft stuff. The dash cluster is a joke so mileage is unknown, but with the telltale grease stains spreading from various areas I'm guessing it's an early build with 20K or more miles on it. My Dearborn connection was coming up empty so I pulled the trigger on buying one. Unfortunately I probably won't really work on it until spring...... PS, yes, I'm feeling great but the Doc still won't let me lift anything for another month.

I took this at an IATN campout almost 10 years ago in the middle of the night after numerous flammable beverages after a long loud argument with Damon about alternators, I think. It was shot with an Olympus D510 pocket camera held up the the eyepiece of a telescope that someone had brought. I was too drunk to remember what the camera settings were. PS: I'm really not much of a photographer.

Let's play a game. 1. What is this? 2. Guess what I did this weekend? Hint: I was nowhere near this "vehicle" when "whatever" happened to it happened.

What did you do with this one?