Bruce Amacker

I love asparagus. Try rubbing some olive oil on it, sprinkle some spices of choice on it, and grill it on the barbie. Excellent! Canned veggies (pretty much without exception) are a poor excuse for food.

The only time I've seen elevated idle on a PSD was from excessively high ICP pressures but I may not suspect that on this truck. Thinking out loud: What's going on with VBAT? Is this an ambulance? Does it have a Load Controller for electrical loads that might be sensing low VBAT and kicking the idle up to compensate? Single or dual alternators? The tranny uses the load PID to determine shift points, IIRC. Fuel pressure OK under load? I might look at Sync/Ficm Sync and graph them in IDS with a bar graph. usually Ficm Sync changes just before Sync during cranking. Maybe check the CMP to see if there is rust under it, that might explain both of your problems. I have voltage pinouts for the TCM connector on the PCM if you need them, they are not in the PCED. For the record, I neither have grey (sp) hair or am a Rotorhead...

I "used" to be a daily contributor to IATN but got tired of the same problems over and over, like you say- guys "trying" to fix things without the proper scan tool, service information, and without checking fuel pressure under load. I do still contribute to the HDF occasionally, but not like I used to. Damon dropped out, too, he has something like 10K-20K posts on the HDF, I have 1700. Too bad.

Hang on- IIRC, the PCED says to check FP on an E-van at he secondary FF at the same plug as an F-model, which is a real pain to access. I may have been the one to come up with the rear-of-the-head check. We did cover it several years ago with pics, here is the thread: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=6394&page=1 I think I'd agree with Mike, the lower HP means (probably) lower ICP pressures which means less chance of damaging the injectors if FP falls off. Or, it could be FMC changing things for no reason......

Brad: Wow! Terrific writeup and attention to detail. Great job!

Shhhhhhhhhh.

Here's a website selling (possibly unauthorized) HD truck software and manuals by the dozen. For an eye-opener click on "Diagnostic" in the left column. http://www.o2epc.com//CATERPILLAR-truck-...hop-repair.html

Nah, nah, nah, never turn away a paying customer, just add 30% to the quote for warranty administration and see what the warranty Nazis say. To my surprise, many of them paid it with no complaints. Remember who is boss- the shop owner, not the warranty administrator. It's not like FMC where you are the slave and they are the King, and must do as Hizzoner says. It kind of reminds me of how it should be.....

What Keith said is mostly correct, but it looks like Keith was flat rate reading. If the trailer brakes work when the controller is pressed, it doesn't have hydraulic surge brakes. If the cust complaint is correct your problem is in the controller. However, I'll tell you a few things about trailers- "surge brakes" (hydraulic) are relatively unusual these days and most trailers have electric brakes. As far as "electric over hydraulic brakes", I think someone is confusing them with surge brakes, which use no electricity and have a MC built into the trailer tongue. Regarding electric brakes, 99-100% of them are wired with Scotch Locks from the factory and commonly have "issues" within minutes or miles. I own 3 trailers right now in addition to several others I have owned in the past, and I've had 3 trailers custom built in the last few years. I've never been able to find a quality harness in a trailer so on the second day of owning a brand new custom trailer, I gut the harness and start from scratch with quality stuff so it will last. Tell your cust that even if the truck IS healthy his trailer is likely not, and to have someone pick up all the wheels and verify all brakes are working when the controller is activated. I've seen trailers not even make it home from the trailer shop (new) with harness and Scotch Lock problems. If you don't have an emulator try a headlight bulb or something that draws 5-10 amps wired into the plug. Good Luck!

I ran an aftermarket shop for 25 years and have memories of both sides, some warranty companies/adjusters were a dream to deal with, some adjusters I physically threw out of the shop. I'd have to think the 6.0 (which I never did any aftermarket warranty work on) would have stressed those companies to the breaking point.

That's exactly how it will look when fuel has entered the coolant. The o-ring in question is rubber, not neoprene, and has zero tolerance for petroleum substances. Most o-rings are neoprene, Viton, or another oil-resistant material. Rubber (a common rubber is EPDM, used in coolant hoses) is visually identical to neoprene but degrades in the presence of oil very quickly, usually within hours. Try putting one end of a piece of heater hose into a pan of diesel fuel overnight- it will swell up 2-3 times it's original size where the diesel fuel is absorbed.

IIRC there's an updated IDM PN to get rid of a ghost IDM feedback code. No CEL, no driveability issues, just the code. I got a lot of good IDMs for that update.....

I have this in my notes "hopefully" it's correct: # 6E7Z9H529AA Good Luck!

Ditto. Check it again for fuel contamination. Good Luck!

I wrenched for 25 years in Cleveland so I know salt all too well. I spend a lot of time in south Florida and have made connections and friends in our trade down there through students. The cleanliness of cars never ceases to amaze me down there..... Off topic- if anyone is looking to invest in real estate or considering a vacation home, now is the time to buy in Florida. Condos in our association in Naples were selling for $250Kish 2 years ago (1200sf, 2BR, 2BA) and are now selling WELL under 100K, averaging 70K for "move in" condition and $40-60K when a kitchen or something is needed. My brother recently bought two units in our complex and is contemplating a third. There's an unbelievable amount of foreclosures and people "upside down" in FL which makes for a terrific opportunity for long range planning. I have pictures of our complex online if anyone is interested.

It might, a buddy of mine loaded a VW Rabbit into the bed of a pickup years ago. He had to put planks down for the rear tires to sit on, but it did fit....

In my opinion that might be true, but it might also depend on how the driver uses the HP. Perhaps Cetane would care to comment.

Advance the timing (which also increases NOx emissions).

2010 6.0, there isn't any other choices.....

Maybe "WAY back" to you young whippersnappers.... I'm an aircooled VW head in addition to everything else. You are correct about the AutoStick. It has a microswitch in the gearshift lever so as soon as you move the lever, the vacuum operated clutch disengaged so you can shift into gear. Most of the time you only shifted from Second to High (2-3). Low was not used often. (I think they were actually labeled as L, 1 and 2 IIRC) Somewhat of a weird trans, the guys in VW circles who love them really love them, but I wouldn't have one. I converted several in the past from AS to 4 speed- very easy if the clutch cable tube is present (in which most were). I'd like to know more about this Fiesta tranny- I wonder if it's an automated trans- which is the name for a manual shifted by computer with some kind of automatic clutch setup (Eaton AutoShift still has a clutch pedal, UltraShift is a two pedal with no clutch pedal). With Eaton AutoShift you only use the clutch when you start out and stop, the ECUs do the rest. With Ultrashift the dual disc clutch has a set of centrifugal weights that apply it at about 800ish rpm. If it's so, the Fiesta sounds like an UltraShift. U-S are weird to drive- you simply hold the AP to the floor like it's an Allison, but it sounds like a 9 speed going through the gears with a distinct delay when it's shifting as the engine drops RPM and the ECU selects the next gear when the RPMs are "just" right. I absolutely LOVE the technology in these. It's cool- the ECUs are perfect, never any gear raking. Automated trannies are becoming more popular in long haul applications because they give the same MPG as a manual. Drivers are becoming less "able" these days and many long haul drivers cannot drive a stick. Where is this world going to when a semi driver can't drive a stickshift tranny..... Here's a shot from a trade show of an UltraShift with the X-Y motors and automatic clutch shown clearly. Edit- I took so long to type this that Jim and Mike beat me to the punch....

Didn't we have a discussion recently about the wiring differences on E-vans causing low FICM power readings before starting? Didn't FMC say this was normal prior to starting due to wiring differences between E's and F's?

Was the inlet screen changed, or the oil changed? I'm thinking bad supplier on parts or oil contamination.....

I had a whole fleet with no cold weather package and no EBP actuators in Texas, the same ones with no operational glow plugs. I've seen several others down south without looking hard, too. I've had guys tap and cork the oil feed line in the aluminum turbo stand to disable the EBP (and it's oil leak). I'm assuming it set an OD fault (P0476?) after this "modification". Guys who popped the rod on sticking EBPs reported little or no change in warmup/heater operation after popping the rod (to disable the sticking EBP). In medium climates as ours I don't think it makes a huge difference. Maybe in Alaska or in a school bus it's a different situation.

Tip: Assuming it is a crankcase leak and not a pressurized leak, seal off the crankcase vent and apply air from the outlet of your shop vacuum (into the oil filler via a duct tape adapter) while the engine is idling to mimic a hard run and some crankcase pressure. Make sure the vacuum is clean and not blowing dust into the crankcase. The vacuum makes about 1psi and won't hurt components. I've done this several time with great results to identify stuff like rear mains that only want to leak when driven. Good Luck!

Not from Ford, but it is also available at a regular hydraulic shop- a visually identical item, thread size is M16x1.5 o-ring. Good Luck!