Bruce Amacker

Has anyone received the Rotunda 335-00001 DEF tester? The mfr is in Cleveland and is supposed to be sending me one to try. http://www.misco.com/search.php?cat=&amp...amp;submit.y=17

That's because people in NJ are too stupid to pump their own gas.

Ditto. I "used" to have a ponytail, now I have a marine flattop.

Ditto. Check glow plug amperage, it should be about 25 amps (each) initially, tapering off to 15 amps or so after 20-30 seconds. I'd probably pull the related glow plugs out and inspect them for S&G. Remove them gently- if they don't come out easily, assume the tip is melted and disable that particular GP. It's not worth fighting one out and having the tip break, and a 7.3 will start just fine on 7 GP down to 0*F or lower. I assume you're using OE parts? I've never seen an IDM cause this. Good Luck!

Does anyone know what the foam element is in the air filter housing, and the reason for the two-step filter? Thanks!

Eric, you are not alone and I'm sure you are aware of this. Your company is nationwide and I am sure you speak with other fleet locations on a regular basis. I have done training for numerous 6.0 fleets and these comments come repeatedly from Econoline fleet customers, whether ambulance, regional transit, or school bus. I can offer little more besides listening to them and offering kind words of support. I hear these same stories over and over, whether it's from the NW area of the country, SW, SE, Midwest, or north east. The stories are nearly identical with only the names and details changing. It saddens me.

Search "Completed Listings" on Fleabay for Ford WDS. I got 5 recent completed sales from $100-$550. Yes, I guess people are still buying them....

The last 7.3/clogged screens I checked with a restriction gauge showed almost 29" of vacuum in the shop, not even driving it. I was surprised the FP would even draw that much vacuum. Complaint was intermittent stall on the highway with no relevant DTCs. Sometimes the crud can fall away from the screen just long enough to allow fuel flow to occur. That's what must have happened with yours. You can tell customers the truth until you're blue in the face and they still won't believe you. I remember one with clogged screens, a tank full of rust, and 8 bad injectors that I wouldn't warranty the new injectors without a new or serviced tank. He declined and was back again several months later for another set of injectors from rust intrusion. I have lots of pics (still!) because I wanted to document EVERYTHING and I knew he'd be back bitching. He was, and got zero warranty. Oh, well. You can lead a horse to water......

It's a shame Ford and your respective employers do not put more emphasis on continued training and testing. Without it, our trade falls even lower than it is now. ASE certs are valuable in the aftermarket, too, and a requirement for many government jobs. Keep that in mind- there's no written guarantee that your employer or your job will be there for eternity. You may need to join the aftermarket work force at some point in your life. I am a staunch supporter of ASE testing but I am also disappointed at the hundreds of dollars it takes to keep my Masters and L1/L2 current.

That's big info...... Thanks!

I like 0w-40 also, I feel it's more important to lube a motor cold than warm. I also think it might be more expensive to make 0w-40 than 10w-30.

My wrecker buddies bitch their heads off about the small midship tanks in their Fords. The wrecker body won't allow anything else......

I'd suggest doing a voltage drop on the VCV circuit. If there is a weak connection in the circuit it will likely show up even while the motor is running. You're comfortable with this test, right? If not, let us know and we'll walk you through it. Accessing the connectors might be a bitch but it's a simple circuit- B+ on one side and return to the PCM. Power shows joined to the 4 way interconnect for the PCV and VCV so it's likely after that. Good Luck!

I am also completely baffled by that. I'd write it off as a programming glitch if nothing more solid comes around.....

Very common, here's some captures I put up 3 years ago of a no-start. Note the KOEO values and lack of DTCs:

OK, help me out here, I know what the plug looks like but haven't had the pleasure (!) of removing one. Is it a quarter turn (and pull) twistlock? Thanks!

Many tire shops will only put two new tires on the rear of the car and not the front due to liability reasons. Common sense says to put them on the front (of a FWD car) but this leaves less tread on the rear tires compared to the front. In a panic stop situation (without ABS) this leads to the car swapping ends because the rear tires have less traction than the front tires. You want new rubber in the front, you buy all 4.

It will be interesting to see what the gang says on this one. In my opinion it's a split decision whether it need sleeves or heads, maybe a little more in favor of heads. Yes sleeves can be done in the truck, and so can heads, but you'd be much happier pulling the motor if it was heads. Pulling the cab is very difficult on an ambulance and most guys will yank the motor rather than the cab. It's a tough call. Doing the diag correctly means pulling the injectors and that's time consuming. If there's not an obvious visual leakage problem with the sleeves I'd probably suggest heads and pulling the motor. Tips and stuff from my notes- -Using a borescope through the sleeve hole to look for traces of coolant. -Remove the fuel-filter-to-cylinder-head lines off the filter housing and fill the coolant to the brim, then use an air nozzle to pressurize the individual cylinder head supply lines. Watch for bubbles coming out of the degas bottle. This might ID which head it is. -To identify which one it is, use an air line equipped with a shutoff and pressure gauge. The access point would be either the fuel-filter-to-head lines or head ports. Apply pressure, shut off the supply, and watch for pressure drop indicating leakage. -Remove injectors and look for a “clean one”. It will have been steam cleaned by the leaking sleeve. -TSB 09-26-1: Drain coolant Remove all injectors Spray soapy water in the injector bores Pressurize the cooling system with air (system must be empty of coolant) Look for bubbles in soapy water Replace offending parts Good Luck!

I'd suggest against it. You'll never get the HP equivalent/airspeed/CFM of a fan clutch with an electric fan. Good Luck!

Friday night, and Grampy's had a few cold ones (more than two, I'd bet).

Holy smokes, batman, that sounds like a deal too good to pass up. I have had students swap motors around in these with different years with only minor issues to work out such as getting the correct exhaust pipes and extending the ICP harness. I'd jump on that deal, too. Good Luck!

I got IDS 2010.5 DVD in the mail last week and IDS 2010.7 DVD in the mail today. Usually I only get a disc every few months. Any comment on why the short span? Is there a bug or cal problems on the 67 disc?

Used, maybe? www.car-part.com is a great junkyard search engine. Good Luck!

Any HD scanner that has the 9 pin Deutsch will read codes from this truck, but even finding one of those might be a challenge. Probably any software will read the codes, even if it is Cat, Cummins, etc. Good Luck!