Bruce Amacker

Hey Guys: (A little punchy, I drove 800+ miles yesterday in a little shitbox car) I have purchased a few netbooks at BestBuy, Asus model 1005 and they went on sale the other day for closeout- being discontinued. 10.1" screen, 1 GB Ram, Win XP (!) 1.6 processor, 160gb HD, nice and compact 2.8 lbs, wireless, great battery life. I've been using it for IDS for about 4 months now and 2 other techs I turned on to it are using it for IDS, too. I have a LOT of programs loaded on it and it runs fine. I did upgrade the RAM to 2gb ($40 Crucial.com) but it ran IDS fine and flashed fine with 1 gb. They are on sale at BB for $223.99, call your local store for availability, not all stores have them. I bought 3 more of them Friday. I really LIKE these things. Have fun!

Cool! The 50 amp should give you a great motor waveform. Has anyone tried it?

Dunno. The only one I've used was at the TC. I don't have one (and for $5G I won't be getting one soon!) Are you sure it's a low amp clamp and not a secondary pickup or trigger lead? They look identical.

It's obvious the owner is a jerk. He figures if he cries loud enough Ford might buy the truck back just to shut him up and stop the bad publicity. When I see long Oasis reports with numerous major repairs, I have to feel some of this could have been avoided by proper diagnostics and not having to abide by Ford's controversial warranty system. It's rare to see a warranty report in ISIS as long as many I've seen in Oasis. There's something more to these repairs than meets the eye, and I think a lot of these repairs don't pass the sniff test. I could elaborate on this but I think everyone here knows what I'm thinking.

This sounds like a connection or relay problem, so a voltage drop test on the power and ground side might be in order. A weak connection or relay would commonly show excessive VD even when working, and the fan might run just fine in this situation. I do have a couple of suggestions to test the motor- do an amp test and compare it to other known good units, or compare it to the fuse rating on the circuit. Amperage is usually about 3/4 of the rated fuse on high speed. If it's binding it will be close to the rated fuse, and if it has an open winding on the commutator it should be lower. The best test would be using a low current clamp and a scope. The clamp can be purchased for under $100 and is WONDERFUL at locating open windings in fuel pumps and other motors, just to name a few tests (gas injectors, ignition coils, zillions of cool uses!). If the motor has an open winding it will work fine most of the time until it comes to rest on the open winding, in which case it won't start- like the fuel pump that needs a whack on the tank to get it started. I have tons of cool waveforms showing dropouts if you need them, the amp wave drops near zero every few milliseconds with a bad spot in the commutator. This is a really cool test and would make a scope freak out of you if you tried it, an amp clamp should be a required tool in any shop that has a scope or VMM. Good Luck!

ABS, or no ABS? If so, is it Kelsey Hayes (TRW) ABS? Is brake fluid pressure not releasing to the rear calipers? They had trouble with HCU valves sticking on these causing this problem. Please be a little more clear about what the system is and what's you've done for diagnostics so far. I don't have service info for this truck but you should be able to subscribe to it for $20/day at: https://www.acdelcotds.com/acdelco/action/home Good Luck!

Throw a long block at it. If you want to do some diag, loosen injector lines when it's cold to identify what's not running and see if that agrees with your compression test. You could also loosen or remove the exhaust manifolds and start it cold to identify dead holes by what's smoking. Swap injectors and see if the misfire moves. On IDIs it's almost impossible for a pump to cause a dead hole. I'd bet money he picks this thing up and doesn't do anything to it, I doubt it's cost effective to go inside this engine. Good Luck!

IH had their version of this one, too, but was discontinued for low sales: http://www.roadtransport.com/blogs/big-lorry-blog/CXT%20yellow.jpg

And this:

Try this:

I can't say I'm familiar with the system but I have Mitchell OD if you need skis or diag info.

...And there are a bunch of different 42 ways used on cars that look the same but won't work. Ask me how I know...

Someone else had them on Ebay a few months ago with a B-I-N of $3500, IIRC. Thanks for the link, I will try to get them at a lower price!

3 packets should be fine. 1 to use, and a couple for classes to pass around. Thanks!

What's the phone number of your parts dept? I'll buy a few of these and have them mailed to me. Thanks!

Nozzles? They disassembled the injectors and replaced the nozzles? Regardless, that's really cheap.....

Alex, what did you do to fix it? Can you tell us if the sensor comes out of the mirror head? Thanks!

When I saw where the sensor was, I knew that was going to happen!

What's the PN of the scanner? Now, to be specific with your truck, I am going to ASSUME it is wired similar to a VT275 IH CF600 or Ford LCF truck. You’re working on a P-model UPS bread van, and I don’t know how UPS spec’ed them. ISIS online does not recognize the VIN so I’m using CF600 stuff. 1. I don't think the ABS is on these busses. It shows as being on a separate J2284- can Keith or someone comment on this? 2. If it's wired like a VT275 there might only be 4 things on the 1939 bus- ECM, IDM, Dash cluster, and tranny. 3. Do you have the EGED 310 big color schematic and diag sheet for the VT275? If not, e-mail me at bamacker@aol.com and I'll send it to you. If you work on other IH engines and don't have the diag sheets, let me know. I uploaded all (60?) of them a while back for you guys to download, they are worth their weight in gold. Good Luck! PS I've got a separate "Bus Diagnostics" class that I'm doing next winter in Chicago and Grand Rapids that are public classes. Anthony will be doing IH AC and ISIS.

We must have covered this already because the images were in the archives. Use this salesman, he's been very supportive with loaning me tools and helping in class: Iron Tite 440-526-0151 Rich Wengatz Page 14 in this catalog: http://www.irontite.com/PDF/Diesel%20Repair%20Catalog.pdf They aren't cheap, though, close to $500 for the basic set without the roll in tool, and another $400+ if you want the roll in tool. Most guys don't use the roll in tool, but it is really slick, used at the factory and in machine shops doing head work. Good Luck!

8 injector sleeves on a 7.3? Those are cake, he shouldn't think about pulling the heads. (Even on a van I don't think you need to) If it's an F we probably would have charged 8-10 hours and had it done in 4 or 5. Add another 2+ for a good flush of the cooling system with strong soap and maybe pulling the stat. This should be a moneymaker. CJ- book rate isn't fair on an older truck, especially if you use warranty time. Somewhere in Mitchell's time book it says to add 10% for each year the truck is old, that starts to level the playing field a bit. Good Luck!

Are you familiar with data bus diagnostics for the J1708 circuits, what the voltages should be, and how to disconnect modules (nodes) on the bus to isolate the ECM? That's where I'd start regarding the communications problem. Does the shop's computer work fine on other trucks? What OTC scanner are you using- Genisys with HD? I wouldn't trust it if I were you. Is a SBDT similar to an old SBDS? A UPS branded laptop or software? Sorry for all of the questions.... Good Luck!

Oil analysis Napa PN 4077 ($14) if you're really curious. It takes a couple weeks for the results, though.

I'm with Mike on this one, do you have any spare injectors you could plug in and listen to? If your FICM powers are good in scan data, (12/12/47v) you really shouldn't have to look at the relay or power supply. If the relay is bad it blows a code and shows 0v in scan.