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Everything posted by Bruce Amacker
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IH 1884220C1 $238 list $220 net
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Getting Medium Duty Truck Software
Bruce Amacker replied to mchan68's topic in Tools, Computers and the Internet
Both Anthony and I have problems with the connection dropping out with the IC4. No problems with USB Link, though. -
Yes, on an F-model. Why are you changing it? I usually suggest them in sets.....
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I took these pics at a fire mechanic's conference in Washington state I was teaching at. AuraGen- 5000 or 8500 watts, 120/240, 50/60hz, pure AC sine wave. http://www.aurasystems.com/pages/tech_induction.htm I know by how firefighting stuff is priced that it won't be cheap from Aura, but there's a guy on Ebay selling them for a reasonable price- $1400/offer: http://cgi.ebay.com/AuraGen-5KW-Generato...=item4cee57fd58
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CAT Delete and Smoke
Bruce Amacker replied to Keith Browning's topic in 6.0L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
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01 Exursion Oil Pan
Bruce Amacker replied to BLittle500's topic in 7.3L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
I think we've covered this before, I'm assuming an Excursion is basically the same as an F-model. My opinion and the general consensus is that it's easier (especially in the rust belt) to pull the motor when doing one of these pans. The pan is siliconed on with no gasket, the rail surface has to be bone-ass dry (brakeclean and air) or the silicone won't stick. Use the good thick gray FMC or IH silicone and make sure it's not outdated (don't ask me why I know that). When I poll students 90% of them pull the motor, but there are a few renegades who prefer to do them in chassis. Most of the guys who have done it in-chassis say they will pull the motor next time. I yank the motor, and either roll it over on the floor or bolt it on a stand and invert it so I can dry off the rails without oil slobbering onto them from the block walls. Let the silicone set up overnight before adding oil. Tip: Yank the motor and burp the pan off BEFORE inverting the engine so gunk from the bottom of the pan isn't dumped into the engine. I had a student with a wicked ICP problem caused by inverting the motor first, then pulling the pan. It turned out to be garbage in the HPOP clogging the edge filter. (high ICP, 4%IPR, DTCs) Cleaning the edge filter fixed it. Tip2: Look for exhaust leaks on the y-pipes and fix them while the motor is out. Good Luck! -
CAT Delete and Smoke
Bruce Amacker replied to Keith Browning's topic in 6.0L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
Yes, the cat absolutely will reduce smoke output. Here are some pics of my 6.4 DOC (/DPF) showing clearly that in the first two inches the soot is burned by the DOC and reduced to ash. Most of these photos were already in the archives. The inlet is on the left: Zoom in of the DOC: It is really difficult to photograph carbon due to the fact it reflects almost no light. This picture does not show it well, but there is a huge reduction in carbon present from the inlet to the middle section of the assembly. The specs are metal shavings from the bandsaw, these were rough photos taken directly after the unit was sawed open. Even today after cleaning, painting, and years of handling, there is a noticeable reduction in carbon present after each component. After the DPF the pipe is white-glove clean. Comparison of EGT's: Note how sooty EGT11 is compared with EGT12. Anyone who says the DOC does not reduce soot/carbon/PM is wrong. PM is black smoke, so here is proof that removal of a DOC will increase black smoke dramatically. Sidebar: I'm wondering if removal and inspection of the 3 EGTs would help in diagnosing a 6.4 failed emissions complaint..... -
I ran that PN (4C3Z-12B599-BARM) though my local dealer and it's not even in the system yet. Has anyone else run that PN?
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There is an extremely sharp national trainer in Ft. Wayne, Indiana by the name of Randy Dillman, whose expertise lies in Euro cars first and Domestic/Asian second. He's an incredibly smart guy whose abilites with a scope and a five gas are beyond anyone else's I know. Randy has investigated coolants, coolant PH, tap water and all of it's impurities from an automotive standpoint like nobody I've ever known. Randy did tap water testing in NE Indiana to compare PH and impurities and found that the water changed virtually from day to day at locations he tested. If it changes that much in Indiana, it probably changes that much everywhere else. I did supply some of his training info to Keith a while back, if anyone has a keen interest in this topic, let me know. If you use the strips, you will need to use them every time you fill a radiator. I do know several shops that use distilled water in cooling systems, and I recommend it in class. When I had the shop I used pre-mixed to avoid the problem, and I still use pre-mixed. They "claim" pre-mixed uses distilled........
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What do you do away from work? PART 2
Bruce Amacker replied to Keith Browning's topic in The Water Cooler
Mostly playing with classic cars and going to car shows. I have a '69 Karmann Ghia and a '63 Vette split window, both restored and both driven regularly. My wife is a retired school teacher so we have time to travel and play, she spends the majority of her time hanging out with her family and shopping. Most of my work time is spent at the computer writing programs and running the business, as Anthony teaches almost all of the classes these days. -
best place to get IDS
Bruce Amacker replied to dieseldoc's topic in Tools, Computers and the Internet
You're sure about that price? Rotunda had some misprints in their cataglogs and fliers that were not found until you actually called to order them.... -
best place to get IDS
Bruce Amacker replied to dieseldoc's topic in Tools, Computers and the Internet
I bought both of mine directly from Rotunda (800-rotunda) where the current price should be $2714. They used to come with 2 years of calibrations but they reduced that to one year (from Rotunda). Rumor has it that your Ford dealer may be able to match the price and give 2 years calibration updates. Remember they are $500/yr for cals when the free stuff runs out. Call some Ford dealers and get prices and time on cals. If you do get one from a dealer and 2 years cals, GET IT IN WRITING. Don't buy one from Ebay or someone you don't know as there are Chinese knockoffs that look virtually like the OE ones. Also, if I had a VCM that was fritzing out ocasionally, Ebay would be a good place to dump it. Info- http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/wds/diagnosticsites/IDS/MCS/default.asp PS In the long run, don't let the cal subscription run out, they start your new subscription where the old one ran out, not at the current date. If the subscription ran out in May 2008 you'd have to pay $1500 to get it renewed (2 years old ples the next 12 mo). Good Luck! -
Head studs for an e-series
Bruce Amacker replied to Mbl35's topic in 6.0L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
Yes, that will cause a bit more coolant pressure, but not enough to cause coolant burping. Are there any other complaints, like coolant loss? I'd "tee" in a coolant pressure gauge and go for a hard run. If the coolant pressure jumps up under load, it's 90% head gaskets and 10% EGR cooler. You'll be able to watch your temp spread, too. Another bullshit test you could run quickly in the shop is a coolant sniffer (blue liquid type) in the bottle while someone power brakes it. This might show your problem, too. Good Luck! -
Warning them verbally is a waste of time, document it in writing and have them sign the RO. Copy the RO and send it to the owner with a note that he will need to refer to this in a few months when you give him the news....
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In this litigious (US) society, I fully understand why a fleet owner would want to impose speed limits.
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Regeneration involves turning on the fuel injectors on the exhaust stroke. The majority of the fuel goes out through the tailpipe to burn in the DPF/DOC, but some of it gets past the piston rings and ends up in the crankcase. The slower the truck is driven (on average), the more regens, and the more fuel dilution. They all do it. Good Luck!
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I assume these are Ford bus chassis, Mutter? IH has RSL (Road Speed Limiting) settings easily changed with their diagnostic software. I have no problem setting it to whatever the management wants to limit their drivers to. I understand Jim's philosophy but it is obvious today's society is leaning towards more control rather than consequences. Management would rather put a governor on it than have to spend one cent in labor time tracking or dealing with a driver going over the speed mandated, not to mention the legal liabilities of an accident that occurred at an illegal speed. Many of my ambulances have in-cab cameras that operate at all times to monitor speed, driver reaction, and have a record of what happened during an accident, it keeps the drivers honest. Cleveland Police have something similar in patrol cars. Two cops were just busted this week and got a 6 month suspension for lying about what happened during a call. It turns out the car's GPS ratted on them about where they were, how long they were there, and how fast they were going. Shame, shame.
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You don't need a BOB to install the fuses. Locate the circuits you want to protect, like the ECM pin X4-2 and X4-1 and de-pin them at the ECM connector. Go to the parts dept and get a male and female spades that match the ECM pins (PNs in ISIS under "Connector View" in schematics IIRC), put one male and one female spade on a fuse holder that has 6" pigtails. Install this fuseholder into the circuit at the connector and tape the power feed that's exposed to the atmosphere. Repeat for each additional circuit you want to protect- 12 pin connector pin 10, and even EGR controller pin 1 if you want double protection. (using the VT275 book ski for reference) Good Luck!
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In theory a 10a breaker would be perfect. In reality I've seen a lot of IH breakers that should have opened fail to open. Commonly they get hot as hell where they burn your fingers and melt the box. I'd give the drive some instructions and a handful of fuses, and a breaker to use last. Here's what ISIS shows- you do have ISIS, right? I did an IKnow search without luck, hoping to hit on a pattern failure. This is just basic data, but two oil coolers less than 400 miles apart? UPS UPS 55 GLENLAKE PARKWAY NE ATLANTA, GA 30328 Engine: International : VT275 4.5L V6; 200 HP@ 2700RPM WORKHORSE ( 0012NTS ) Application: Model: ESN: 4.5HU2Y0399250 Unit#: Edit Inspection Exp: Notes: NO WARRANTY INFORMATION Order Date: 05/02/2007 DTU Status: DTU Build Date: 05/31/2007 DTU Miles: 700 Miles Warranty Start Date: 10/17/2007 Standard Warranty: Standard Warranty Matrix Time In Service: 2 Years 7 Months Diamond Spec: No Service Contract: No Managed Repair Information Open Recalls: No Open AFCs: No WARRANTY HISTORY (Only upto 5 recent claims) *Only those User IDs that have been properly registered in ER (Employee Registration) as a Warranty Admin will be able to view claim dollar information for their respective dealer accounts/locations. DYYs need to be setup properly in ER. For each dealer account and location code, each User ID that is allowed to access Warranty Claim History needs to be setup in ER with the Employee Position of: Warranty Administrator. CYYs will no longer be able to view claim dollar information on ISIS. CYYs need to use DDEW (or iClaim after it is released). Claim Fail Date Dealer Warranty Code Group Reason Mileage 0020784A 03/23/2010 HINE BROS. INT'L., L.L.C (712950-001) 01 - In Warranty ENGINE COOLER,EGR 40427Miles 0020784B 03/23/2010 HINE BROS. INT'L., L.L.C (712950-001) 01 - In Warranty ENGINE FILTER/BASE/GASKET/MOUNTING BRKT., OIL 40427Miles 0020738A 03/03/2010 HINE BROS. INT'L., L.L.C (712950-001) 01 - In Warranty ENGINE COOLER,EGR 40063Miles 0019655A 03/18/2009 HINE BROS. INT'L., L.L.C (712950-001) 40 - Authorized Safety Recall or Field Change Code: 08907 25647Miles 0019655B 03/18/2009 HINE BROS. INT'L., L.L.C (712950-001) 40 - Authorized Safety Recall or Field Change Code: 08904 25647Miles CALIBRATION STATUS IDM Status: ECM Status: Calibration Status: Vehicle Calibration Scorecard ESC Status: None Electronic Features: Integration Feature(s) Custom Logic VIN: 5B4KPD25273426565 Order Date: 05/02/2007 Model: Build Date: 05/31/2007 Engine: International : VT275 4.5L V6; 200 HP@ 2700RPM WORKHORSE ( 0012NTS ) DTU Date: 10/17/2007 Application Family: Warranty Start Date: 10/17/2007 Application: DTU Status: DTU Wheel Base: 157.0 DTU Odometer: 700 Miles GVWR: 16000 Original Gear Ratio: 000 PC Number: Programmed Gear Ratio: Paint Color Code: Order Number: Selling Dealer: (99305-) AfterFrame: 0.0 Customer: UPS UPS Address: 55 GLENLAKE PARKWAY NE City, State Zip: ATLANTA, GA 30328
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Before I put a new PCM in this thing..
Bruce Amacker replied to DamageINC's topic in All Gasoline Engines
You work for a frigging Ford dealer and they don't have a BOB? WTF? I'll send you one of mine if you pay shipping both ways. -
Before I put a new PCM in this thing..
Bruce Amacker replied to DamageINC's topic in All Gasoline Engines
Do you have a 104 pin breakout box, a DVOM and a schematic? That's where you're heading. You need to check powers and grounds on the PCM while they're active and loaded. In my experience, a clicking relay has always been a weak power supply (Yea, I know) but I wouldn't rule out a shorted sensor/harness pulling the VREF down. Good Luck! -
Post the VIN if you get a chance......
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Welcome to the forum. I'm assuming this is a P-style UPS van and not a CF truck, right? Is it a VIN that ISIS recognizes? CF's had a harness rub problem in the grill area that would probably not apply to your situation. Intermittent shorts are a real bugger to diag sometimes. If a close inspection of the harness does not reveal anything, another option is to de-pin the power side of each component in the circuit and install a separate (smaller) amperage fuse, which will blow at the time of short leaving the 10a fuse intact. If I were working on the truck I'd put an amp clamp on the feed wire near the fuse while doing my testing/running looking for a spike in amperage, even if it were not enough to blow the fuse. Use your scan tool to exercise the EGR while doing this testing looking for high amperage. Looking at the schematic makes me want to question the EGR a bit- putting a 5 or 7.5 amp fuse in that circuit might not be a bad idea to prevent a service call...... Let us know what you do and what fixes the truck. Good Luck!
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Most charging systems put out only .02-.05VAC (yes, .02V) at low output. That .5 spec is older than I am and really outdated. I sent a new IH back to the dealer when it was putting out about .4VAC and they replaced the alternator. As much as I emphasize clean power, my gut feeling is that you have a bad run of IDMs. I've seen lots of bad power to IDMs through relay pitting and power supply problems and never saw an IDM damaged by it. When I had the shop I would frequently see a bad run of parts from one supplier, even OE. If I had two in a row bad I always changed suppliers. Maybe you guys will prove me wrong on this one. If you know the guy, swap a used IDM into his truck from (another of his trucks?) something and see if it lasts. Good Luck!
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What brand are the IDMs and where are you getting them from? I can't remember seeing a physical problem causing repeat IDM failures.