Bruce Amacker

Correct me if I'm wrong: Remove FF Disable FP Crank engine by bypassing the starter Observe bubbles in FF, or balloon growing To identify which cylinder, remove all glows plug except one on the affected bank Crank engine Move glow plug until problem reoccurs- you've found the bad boy. Good Luck!

I believe this oil system is quite similar to it's big brother. I'd pull the oil filter out and crank the engine to verify oil is filling the filter housing, as it could just be "air bound". If not, I'd pull the pressure regulator or OPS out and crank the engine to see if oil flowed from the hole. If not, off with the pan to investigate. If it does flow from the regulator but won't build pressure, apply shop air to the OPS hole and see what hisses the most. I'm assuming this is a tow-in no-start, with no low oil pressure, so correct me if I'm wrong. Good Luck!

I've had some experience with aftermarket warranty companies also, all pretty much positive. They were fair, paid quickly, and knew what they were doing. I'd say they were much easier to deal with than your warranty Nazis. One even approved and paid a tranny overhaul after the van had left the shop because I was able to document the complete repair with clear pictures and old parts. I'm sure some companies are a bitch to deal with, but perhaps I was lucky. My worst experience with an adjuster was with a crash job on a new IH MD truck. They sent a car adjuster out who really had no idea how to adjust a truck crash. I literally threw him out of the shop and told the company to send someone down who knew what they were doing. The ins. company did send down a good adjuster and it ended up being one of my best jobs- over $20K in repairs and very profitable. Have Fun!

I'm not wild about the abilities of the VMM vs. it's price. If you're a scope dude, the PicoScope does 10 times as much at a quarter of the price. Good Luck!

You have an IDS, right? You'll be lost without one. TKIT2006SD-FLM is the big red three box set of specialty tools you'll need, and TKIT2007AP-F is the bleed hose for the HP pump. There's a couple of sets of special wrenches for getting at the HP pump you might want to think about, I'm sure the guys will chime in with PN's. Good Luck!

I commend you on doing a great job of logical diagnostics, as your thought process is virtually identical to what I'd have done. I might suggest using a CKP overlay harness to rule out freaky EMI/RFI problems, and checking the CKP/CKPO waveforms with a scope to see exactly what's acting up when the problem occurs. While I had my scope out, I'd probably look at CMP and CMPO, as well as powers and grounds, just in case you've got an odd base electrical problem. I'm with the others thinking along the module line, but wouldn't rule out a harness or electrical problem. Please keep us posted on what you find with this beast. Good Luck!

Yep, the pics are dated 12/29/2003, taken as soon as I got them. They're still "pretty" clean, as they aren't used daily like yours are. IIRC, I paid about $500 for the set off of FleaBay. Happy New Year!

http://www.turbotraining.com/fpt.htm

Good idea. In addition, please post what the cost to insure is. ($X per thousand dollars in coverage) This may give us added info about whether we're getting a fair deal from out insurance carriers or getting boned. Location will have a lot to do with it also- Ohio is one of the cheapest states for insurance and NJ is one of the higher states, after comparing shop and car rates with Damon. His rates are about 10X what I'm paying!

When I had my shop I insured my tech's tools, but it was extremely expensive to cover the tools as their own. I asked about the rate if the tools were shop owned or leased, and the rate very cheap-a few percent of the rate if they were insured as their own tools. The solution was obvious- write up a lease agreement where the tech's toolbox was leased to me at $1 per year, and insure them as shop owned tools. We inventoried the tech's tools, documented them with pictures of each drawer opened, and wrote up a simple lease agreement. I expanded on this to increase the amount to $550, just under the IRS report amount so it was non- taxed and the tech decided whether or not to declare it as income . This was paid at the end of the year as part of their Christmas bonus. My CRS prevents me from remembering exact numbers, but I think it cost me less than a couple hundred a year to insure three full size employee boxes- nearly nothing. It would have been several thousand per year to insure them as employee owned. This worked flawlessly for a long time. I doubt the new owner of the shop (who worked for me 9 years prior to the purchase) continued this practice. Even though I had rights to the tech's boxes, I never went in them without asking first. None of us ever closed or locked any of our toolboxes, and (thank God), I never had a thief work for me or ever had anything stolen. I doubt this story will help DTS members, but it was how I solved the situation. Perhaps if you are a long time valued employee and close to the DP, you could have a talk with him about offering this benefit. Happy New Year!

RE: 2006 6.0 HP o-rings Hey guys, what's the current situation regarding availability of HP oil standpipe o-rings and HP W-manifold dummy plug o-rings. I'm trying to help a guy whose dealer says no o-rings are available, only replacement parts with o-rings attached. Old info from my notes, all PN's are NLA: W302290 are the small rings on the bottom of the stand pipe and the bottom of the 2 piece stand pipe.W301386 is the ring at the top of the dummy plug and the top of the 2 piece stand pipe. W301390 is the ring in the middle of the 2 piece stand pipe and the bottom of the dummy plug. 6.0L Diesel Stand Pipe O-Rings: Now Only Available in KitsO-Ring part numbers W301386, W301390 & W302209 are no longer available per Ford Diesel Engineering. The O-Rings are now included in the Stand Pipe assembly (base 9A332) or the Stand Pipe Plug (part number W302195). Alliant Power has a bulletin (APTB 03/08) on these with (I think) FMC PN's that match what I have in my notes, but are NLA from Ford. Are they available from AP? Are these available from FMC? How about Alliant? If so, what are the PN's? Thanks!

Happy Birthday! How does the buzz test sound- loud and clear on all 8? Have you taken a fuel sample into a clear jar from the yellow lever and inspected it for odor, water, and debris? What's the GP amperage measured at the fat lead on the GP relay? You're measuring RPM with the scan tool and not the dash, right? Have you checked fuel pressure at (at least) one head? I'd be less concerned about the P1277 and P1293 causing the no start and look at the bigger picture instead of concentrating on one cylinder. If you want to do a quickie test, pull the VC connectors off (without pulling the VC) and ohm each of the injector circuits. I use 2.77-3.17Ω as my go/nogo window. I'm in the office today, 440-846-3885 if you want.... Good Luck!

+1 Pass on this one. You'll be marrying a bastard if you do it. Merry Christmas!

C'mon, Dwayne. Tell us how you really feel....

The right mouse button also triggers a recording.....

This is a management issue, not a technical issue. As soon as you inform mgt of the problem and document it, the problem is out of your hands. Sleep well! :grin!

Take a closer look at your ICP voltage to diagnose this. KOEO should be between .17 and .24v, idling is usually just under a volt. If IPR command is going to 84% the PCM is probably not seeing what it wants in ICPV/pressure. I have seen the IPR command go to 70-80% before on a hard road test but usually if you see 84% there's a problem, as that's max. Don't rely on ICP pressure during diag as the PCM will substitute a known good value if it is whacked out. It sounds like an electrical problem, like maybe a bad harness, in addition to the possibility of a sticking VGT. Brake torque it, go on and off the throttle hard and see if it dies. There's no good diag for a leaking STC fitting. Keep us posted, you've got a tough one.

Yes, many times, usually by sludge and valve seals back in the '70s and '80s. Not so much lately. I wonder if this is why Ford uses such large mesh screen on their HEUI's?

IH's clusters also seem to be fussier about batteries and voltages than their ECMs and other modules. I can remember several similar situations at my shop where new batteries and CLEAN POWER repaired a freaked out dash.

Good catch- yes, that was an F-650 motor evidence by the pan, gear driven PS pump, Allison bellhousing, and numerous other small details.

Welcome to DTS, Clint. You'll find a lot of helpful people here without the corporate bias found on other websites. I usually do the coolant pressure test- "tee" in a 30lb pressure gauge into the degas bottle line with a long hose going to the dash or windshield. Road test the truck and romp on it, the pressure should rise gradually up to the 17lb release point of the rad cap. If the pressure gauge jumps up at WOT, or cycles between 13-17lb, it shows excess pressure buildup in the cooling system. 99% of the time this indicates head gaskets. During this RT, compare ECT and EOT under heavy load to identify a restricted oil cooler. I still use 25*F temp differential, even though Ford changed it to 15*F temp differential. The temp differential test is only valid on an RT, not in the shop. Other helpful hints from my notes, most of which you probably already know: Suspect a leaking EGR cooler? Look at the EGR valve for wet carbon. If it’s wet or shiny, replace the EGR cooler. Suspect a leaking EGR cooler? Drill a 3/16” hole on the exhaust manifold and see if coolant escapes. Pressure test the cooling system while the hole is open and see if it drips. Tap the hole and plug it when done. One of my friends in the aftermarket does this test and swears by it. Pressurize the cooling system, raise the back end of the truck, and remove the EGR valve. Look inside and see if it is moist- if it is, the cooler is leaking. Beware: a leaking EGR cooler may result from the root cause of leaking head gaskets (especially if the truck has been modified) or a sticking turbo. Run the engine while blocking the tailpipe tightly with a rag. If more bubbles occur in the degas bottle, your EGR cooler is suspect. Suck down the system with a RadKit Plus cooling system evacuator, and listen to the EGR cooler with a stethoscope. If it is leaking, it will commonly whistle very quietly. Using coolant dye, road test the truck hard and then remove the EGR valve. Use your black light on the valve and bore area to identify if coolant (dye) is present. Hooting noise during and just after hard acceleration? The hooting is likely the coolant cap venting. [*]Oil coolers often restrict, causing a lack of coolant to the EGR cooler. [*]Coolant leaks that allow the level to get too low and melt down the cooler [*]Performance modifications that cause excessive exhaust temperatures [*]Aeration from head gasket failures Read TSB 8-03-07 before starting. Check EOT vs ECT temps before starting. A restricted engine oil cooler will damage the new EGR cooler immediately! I recommend replacing the EGR cooler, engine oil cooler, IAT2 sensor, EGR valve, and have the intake manifold boiled or tanked to remove carbon buildup from the EGR. Permatex Gasket Remover in a spray can works great to dissolve the carbon in the intake. Verify the Vistronic fan clutch works properly! Inspect for soot at the y-pipes that might indicate an exhaust leak, as it’s easy to see/fix this now with the top of the engine apart. Any additions or comments welcome. Good Luck!

Hey Guys: I don't remember if we covered this topic or not. On the aluminum oil cooler cover casting there's a hole that's drilled partially through but not all of the way through. There's a threaded hole in the block under this casting hole. Why is this hole not completed? Is it possible to drill this through and put a bolt there? I've got one leaking at this exact spot..... Thanks!

How are these used? I have 2 IDSs and neither uses this cable. Both of mine use the very long (10'?) USB to VCM cable. If that's just a standard M/F USB extension cable, they can be bought at PC stores.

Why don't you put some black tape over the light?

Did you check the spare? (BTDTGTTS, still red faced over it....)