Bruce Amacker

I've sold Powerstroke books on every continent except Antarctica, so that answers where some of these trucks are coming from. I still question why someone would want a truck in a country with little or no parts supply.

Did he leave the ball out under the ferry plug? That will make a no-start. There are a couple of different front gaskets, too, IIRC. They're pictured in the Coffee Table book. Other than that, I've never had that problem. If you leave chunkies inside it can cause too high of an ICP, I know. I'm sure it could a no start if the particles are in the right place.

PS Don't forget cranking speed- 150 minimum cold. Good Luck!

I feel this has nothing to do with cab removal, but the general quality of work in our industry. We've been down this road before at DTS- it's not what's being done, but who is doing it. Cab on, cab off, it doesn't matter- if the guy is a hack it's going to be a butcher job either way. This applies to dealership tech as well as indys- there's just way too many butchers in our field. I have seen too many instances of hack work from both dealers and indys. I could argue that flat rate promotes hack work, but I won't go there.....

Correct!

Dwayne: Whoever built that stand needs a basic lesson in physics- 90% of the weight is above the pivot point. It would take two gorillas to turn that engine, and it's likely to flip over while doing it. Cbriggs: I'd think about changing employers (in a better economy) if they would not provide me with the basic tools to do the job safely. It blows my mind how fucking stupid employers can be sometimes. A: You should not have to buy an engine stand when working in a shop. B: Repeating Dwayne- I wouldn't let anyone use the fucker, either! Un-fucking-real.

I've been burned by this, too, and always stress the importance of checking cranking speed with a scan tool. 7.3- 175 warm, (150 cold minimum), 6.0- 215 warm, (175 cold minimum), 6.4 250 warm, (200 cold minimum). You can't tell if it's cranking fast enough by listening to it! 7.3's will start hard cold at 135rpm in our climate.

I've seen it and been burned too many times by bad batteries and base electrical. I just changed three batteries in my family's cars yesterday for PM because they were 5+ years old. I've seen students chase gremlins and hang parts like crazy for bad base electrical. I think I sold a car a few decades ago for a bad battery because it would stall and not crank sometimes. After 5 minutes everything would be fine for a few weeks. Man, I could tell you some weird stories about base electrical problems and complaints. The young guys in class think I'm bullshitting, but I shit you not...... Keith, I've got my fingers crossed your luck holds out.

I'd start with basic electrical on this one. Batteries, connections, ACV, voltage drop powers and grounds, and then install a BOB to check waveforms and voltages. You could jump to the AP sensor and test/replace it with a known good, but my hunch is that it's base electrical. Good Luck!

Did I miss something here? Did the water cooled EGRs go away? Thanks!

I recently helped an aftermarket shop with a pair of F-650's giving him grief. Truck #1, 2006 F650, VT365 (6.0): Runs poorly cold with misfire and large quantities of smoke. Shop #1 put 8 injectors in it which did not help. Runs and drives fine once warmed up fully. No codes stored, fuel pressure in spec. Truck #2, 2004 F650, VT365 (6.0): Lack of power and hesitation at all times, no codes stored, fuel pressure in spec. Flashing both of them fixed all problems, both drivers rave about how well they run. I don't have a lot of experience with F650's so I was glad it worked out. The shop owner had access to Nets, and surprisingly, Ford allowed him to flash them.

Brother......

What are we working on? Do you want basic or full? 9K061 or 9150 for o-rings "might" help, but I'm not a parts guy.

I wonder if a borescope or other visual tool could be used to check the pickup through the drainplug hole......

Is the bottom of the pan pushed in? The only time I've seen RPM go up and oil pressure go down the pickup screen is starved, blocked, or the pan is crushed in. Good Luck!

Yowza! What are you putting that in? I'm not really interested in buying the 427, just idle chatter right now. Oddly enough, I just put a 2180 stroker in my VW Karmann Ghia, so that's my current "project toy". The Vette is "done" as far as I'm concerned. It's stone stock numbers match and restored.

'63s never came with big blocks, so I'd have to cut the crossmember a bit to put one in. I'd probably rather put a high revving smallblock in it with the Rochester FI setup I've been sitting on. I passed up a great car a few years ago that I should have bought- '63 SWC pilot car SN#21 for $35K. A pilot car is just that- completely handmade, with hand laid FG panels and a lot of little doodads that are different than regular production cars. I was in the process of selling the shop so it was a bad time for me so I turned on one of my buddies to it and he bought it. That car, restored, is worth the better part of $150K, even in today's market, as they only built 25 of them and only 11 are known to exist (IIRC). It's a running, driving, decent looking car with the wrong motor in it, but what a frigging great investment. I bug my buddy regularly to sell it to me, but NFW... SWC's have not lost much value lately when compared to other midyear Vettes.

BTDTGTTS. I've been down more bad roads with Ford parts departments that I care to talk about. I wrote a letter to the owner of our large LD/MD/HD truck dealer here in Cleveland a few years ago and he called me the minute he got it. Within an hour the GM called me and the parts manager and his assistant were at my shop with a box of donuts. Their asses were still bleeding..... I've got too many stories to tell, and they're not good ones. Unfortunately, I had much better luck buying GM parts (we have/had the fifth(?) largest GM dealer in the world in Cleveland, Classic Chevy, but this may not be current info since I sold the shop...) I include a lot of PN's in my books because Ford's software is bad and the parts guys are lazy. They want to sell you assys when all you need is an o-ring or some small component.

Two weaks? Is that a Freudian slip?

That's right, Buttercup. What else do expect this time of year- 90* and humid?!

Any part numbers or pics? I haven't seen it yet....

I'm pretty sure you're right about the adapter on the MT series. I'm not much of a Mopar fan except for the Hemis. I still drool like mad when I see one. Maybe someday..........

I remember seeing that car, it was sweet!

I'm pretty sure the bellhousing pattern is the same, I know a guy who put a car 327 in a C60 years ago. I don't think Chevy ever used a circular style bellhousing pattern on gassers. Some of the MD engines did have an extra bellhousing bolt at the top "peak" of the bell pattern IIRC. Rumor was this identified a 4 bolt main or something, but I think that was proven wrong in the long run. I still think it would fit in my car.

Step 1 with a gas truck is to do a compression test physically on all 8 because gassers work so hard their engine life is terribly short. Send that $500 Holley back as I doubt you'll need it, it's likely to be junk out of the box, and they are so simple my wife could rebuild it. Don't mess with the governor stuff, pull the float bowls off and spray clean what's inside. Get a kit from Napa or wherever (using the list# on the air horn) and put the parts in. (If you have a speed shop handy you could just buy the float bowl gaskets or a minor tune up kit cheap) Pull the venturi (?) parts from the bores and replace the gaskets and spray clean in there. You're better off fixing what you have than buying a reman carb when it comes to Holleys, as the truck models with governors are ridiculously expensive. I'd bet the carb is not your problem anyway. Check all secondary ignition stuff and ONLY USE OE (Delco/AC) BRAND PARTS. No fucking Napa wires, cap, or anything else. It probably takes an AC R43 plug. Make sure BOTH timing advances work correctly- mechanical and vacuum. I'd bet one or the other is broken. If you stoop to putting the reman carb on, look at all of the linkages and vacuum ports with a microscope before getting it dirty, as you'll likely find it doesn't line up right. By helping you with that 427, I meant I'd help you pull it out of that truck and install it in my 'Vette.....