Bruce Amacker

Tell him to put a new OE radiator in it. Rusty Savignac owns a shop in Paxton, MA (near Worcester) about 1-1.5 hours away and has OE software, owns a DT and knows these trucks very well, plus he's a friend of mine. I've done classes for him and trust him completely. It's a small garage but very well equipped. Paxton Garage 593 Pleasant St Paxton, MA 01612-1382 (508) 756-0500

I also did not see the second "back to back" compressor wheels mentioned in the engineering documents.

What’s with these ports on the front of the oil pan? Any ideas? Sensor on bottom of plastic oil pan? I asked the Ford guy what the two sensors are on the bottom of the pan, and he said oil temp and pressure. But there’s an OPS by the filter….. The secondary FF looks like a sealed unit. But very accessible. (Inside toolbox) I should have zoomed in on the 6.7 logo- it’s nice. FF right out in the open. Scope out the curved edges on the turbo compressor wheel: Two pushrods in one lifter: Overhead oiler tube with pinholes drilled in it for the rockers, like a Pinto. You younguns DO know what a Pinto is, right? You can see the base of this tube in a pic from the other day getting oil from the head. I wonder if the pushrods are solid? DTC compresses these pictures considerably to save on bandwidth. If anyone wants a full size pic of something, let me know. They were all shot with two Olympus pocket cameras, most with an old D550 3.2MP and some with a FE370 8.0MP. The old D550 shoots a better picture than the newer one....

Capt. Sully was our keynote speaker at CARS. What a terrific speech! I believe it is the best motivational speech I have ever heard.

Yes, it appears to be a Garrett, similar to the 6.0 but with a different compressor wheel.

^^^ Ditto, and also I'd pull a vacuum on the cooling system with a RadKitPlus to make sure it's filled all of the way. Is there an Oasis history on this truck? Has the cooling system been apart lately?

Hey Guys: I'm at SEMA in Vegas and thought you might enjoy some pics I shot. They have a 6.7 truck and cutaway there and I shot 200+ pics here's a few: EGR: I'm really tired, but here's some quick notes: 4 valves, 4 rockers, 2 pushrods in one lifter on one lobe Dual EGR coolers in an easy to service housing on top of the right VC, set up so that thermal expansion won't kill them. Bosch HPCR, piezo injecotors with 8 holes Intake manifold built into VC Cross bolted mains External oil cooler Injectors external to the VC Dual stats, easy to service Front gear drive EGR valve super simple and out in the open on RT VC Turbo looks like a Garrett style VGT with a FMC label I'm very impressed with the easy to service design! More pics to come when I get home...

You could backprobe the sensors to check for proper voltages, but otherwise I can't help you.

There's not enough info here to help you out. Get the performance diag sheet and go through it, step by step. What's fuel pressure? What does a fuel sample look like in a glass jar? Are MAP, BARO, and EBP all 14.7 KOEO? How does the buzz test sound? Have you checked the VC and UVC harnesses? What scan tool are you using? If you don't get anywhere, try filling the FF with Stanadyne and see how it runs. How do the batteries and cables look? Good Luck!

I've seen those bed heaters for years around here on Class 8's, but never saw a problem associated with them outside of weird exhaust leaks and rotted beds. I know what's wrong- he's got the tailpipe on upside down!

IIRC when I tried, it would hold the RPM up for three minutes while watching DPF pressure. If pressure was low, it would boot you out. If pressure was high, showing DPF restriction, it would do the regen for about 35 minutes. I tricked it with a hand held pump hooked to the DPF pressure sensor to activate the regen. I believe I used 12 psi.....

The Cleveland School Board has one, and yes, it works. It is the air pulse style, not the huge dollar oven that bakes the carbon out of them. Our local IH dealer takes clogged DPFs there because there's no other quick way to clean them. There's a picture of it in Keith's DPF article: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-07-03.php Does it make them as good as new? Probably not. If the DPF is packed with coke it will need to be baked in an oven to burn the coke into ash. It does make them serviceable again, though.

How about trying a 5w-40 full synthetic? I'm not a big supporter of synthetic engine oil, but this might be a good application for it. I'd suggest staying with a multigrade oil with a 0w or 5w cold rating.

The NavCom cable also has some other cool stuff built into it, like an internal datalogger that works without the laptop. According to the NavCom user's guide, it is compatible with IH (Lucas Varity) hydraulic ABS, but I haven't tried it to verify that. SUEnterprise.com is still selling IC4COMs and Saint software, and I hope they continue to......

Depending on which tool set you have: On the rear cyl, cut the threads, and then use the puller plug (without the slide hammer) with a large socket over it and a bolt to pull up on the puller plug. In my notes I have to machine a 1/2" drive 1.5" deepwell socket to 1.86" OD (PN SIM 480 Snap-On) which fits between the rockers quite nicely. You may be able to "make something work", like a hunk of tubing, pipe, or a ball joint press adapter. Clean the hole, and use Loctite 262 for a sealer. Good Luck!

That is BULLSHIT in my opinion. Unless you caused the failure, or "didn't go deep enough" you should NOT be working for free, +2, Don't do this repair for free. It's done in the chassis, actually quite easy. Do you have the tools?

I can't see any installation errors that would cause the cups to crack. More than likely, they were already cracked with the cracks filled in with debris/corrosion. Just R&Ring the injectors was enough to disturb them and cause them to leak. I usually tell students to look for a root cause of overheating like a bad fan clutch, clogged radiator fins, etc, which is usually the real reason they cracked. Relax, it's not your fault. Have Fun!

It's almost certain to be leaking cups on a 7.3, I've never seen anything else cause this. (On a 6.0 it's common to be a cracked head) You could pull the injectors and pressure test the cooling system to diagnose which cup is leaking, but I'd suggest doing all 8. Is it an earlier truck with brass cups? Good Luck!

I think Buddy's right here. There are DEFINITELY different cams, as our local IH dealer put in a reman T444E engine that came with a camshaft from a late 7.3 PSD, without the fuel pump cam lobe. They figgered it out after a couple of fuel pumps. There are definitely injector differences, too. It could probably be made to work, but there's no giving a quote on this one.... Good Luck!

Do you have a (4 or 5 gas) gas analyzer? There are tons of tests you can run looking for HC's under the hood and etc to narrow down the source of the "supposed" fumes quickly.

What scan tool are you using? Correct on the ICPV, I like to see .17-.24 KOEO and climb quickly to 1.25-1.5V cranking. Also, what are your FICM voltages? If "M" voltage is under spec it would cause this. It's usually 48v or so, when it gets in the 30's or lower it causes a hard cold start. FYI you can use an amp clamp to verify GP operation, they usually pull 170-180 or so initial amperage KOEO cold. Most of the time the CEL lights when the GPs act up. Good Luck!

I'm diggin' it..... PS, so what's wrong with an hour for changing an EGR? Profit is NOT a four letter word. It all averages out in the long run. A 7.3 mechanical FP got you 6 hours or something in MOD 'cause they paid you to R&R the turbo to change the FP, which is ridiculous. If one of my guys took and hour he was dogging it...

Yes, but I've not seen that use his problem. Keith- make sure the filter bypass valve is in place.

I remember it as being quite pricey, too, but it's still got to be cheaper than a harness. See if you can get a cost on it.