Bruce Amacker

I suggest starting with some basics- what is IPR command at a hot idle? It should be 9-11%. What is MFDES? It should not exceed 14-16mg or it could indicate injector problems. I would check base oil pressure, also, on this one too, as a weak LPOP will cause this concern. If the LPOP is worn, it will allow the oil galleys in the block to drain out over time past the teeth of the gerotor pump. If the reservoir is 2+ inches low it starts and runs a few seconds on what's in the reservoir until it depletes. During this few seconds, the worn LPOP is struggling to get itself primed and fill all of the galleys in the block. I've seen this before and the LPOP that fixed it, after the tech had changed everything else. I'm actually thinking you have two or more problems combined- the HPOP might be draining back some and the LPOP can't keep up with the initial demand from the lowered reservoir. Isn't life grand? Deja Vu: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=9127&page=1#Post9127

Todd: Welcome to the DTS Forum! You'll find a lot of knowledgeable help here without corporate bias. All items mentioned above are common. There's a drain port in the valley, in the back of the block that allows any leakage in the valley to drain from the bellhousing area mimicking a rear main seal. I suggest you look closer at the valley area at all areas mentioned for leaks. There's nothing inside the bellhousing that can leak fuel by itself, it has to come from outside of the bellhousing. If the valley is bone dry, check the fuel line/check valve at the rear of the right head like Greg mentioned, it could be running down the exterior of the bell and look like a rear main. (The one feeding the left head is at the front of the left head). I'd probably also check the oil for level and contamination, in case it's 10 qts overfull with fuel. PS Rotted filter housing castings are a regional thing- we hardly ever see them in the north, but when I do classes in FL the guys say they sell many of them...... Good Luck!

Is that CJ yours? And who is George?

Nice Beetle! What is that, a '73-74? Just kidding, Machs are some great cars. I saw a Boss 429 this summer at a car show- it has aluminum valve covers almost a foot wide with the plug wires ala Hemi. I still drool thinking about that one....

Yep, been there. After a couple of those I learned to hang a red fender cover from trailer hitches as soon as the truck went up. Being tall makes me a perfect target for those bastards....

PS I go to the west coast for a few days tomorrow AM and won't be sitting on my PC. Call if I can help.

I'm assuming this is an EGR motor, '05 up. Do you have the VIN? Was any of this done under warranty? I'm not aware of anything in print from IH stating to avoid gasket whizzers. The service manual states the proper way to clean the head is: 1. Use a rotary wire brush or a sanding block with mineral spirits to remove any deposits and gasket material from the gasket surface of the cylinder head. 2. Use an appropriately sized brush to clean all mounting bolt holes in the cylinder head. IH has had some problems with liner protrusion not being set correctly from the factory on those engines causing problems. Commonly the base fault is the counterbores in the block are not machined to the proper standard, requiring the counterbore to be hand-cut in the chassis and shims added. Eat your Wheaties! Generally the techs "mix and match" the sleeves to see if they can get the protrusion within specs before attempting to cut the counterbores. Cylinder Sleeve Specifications Allowable variation of counterbore depth between four points (max.) 0.03 mm (0.001 in) Counterbore depth before adding shims (max.) 10.49 mm (0.413 in) Counterbore depth (including shims- if any) 8.84 - 8.89 mm (0.348 - 0.350 in) Cylinder sleeve protrusion 0.05 - 0.13 mm (0.002 - 0.005 in) Cylinder sleeve taper, at top of ring travel (max.) 0.10 mm (0.004 in) Flange thickness 8.94 - 8.96 mm (0.352 - 0.353 in) Inside diameter 114.50 - 116.60 mm (4.590 - 4.591 in) It's all in the WSM- clamp the liner in place, measure the protrusion with a "sled" gauge, and correct accordingly. From my class: Early EGR engines had problems at the factory with keeping the depth consistent on counterbores (in the block) .002-.005" is spec Liners must be clamped with bolts and washers Check protrusion at 4 points around liner Mix and match liners if slightly off (play musical liners) Smallest shim available: .002” Too much protrusion? Cut counterbores manually with a counterbore cutter. (Eat your Wheaties!) Good Luck! PS I have a core head and a core long block for this truck if you need them. Do you have ISIS?

I recommend in all of my classes that the techs keep a known good IDM and FICM on the shelf for test purposes. If you can't find one easily, www.car-part.com has used ones for $100 or less. Good Luck!

I also wore glasses since I was 12, did Lasik 5 years ago and could not be happier, 20/15 in one eye and 20/20 in the other. Love it!

I cut my teeth on old gasser 'Binders back in the '70's: 345, 392, MV404, MV446, etc. They had an early diesel (I can't remember the designation) that idled on 4 cylinders and pulled on 8 cylinders, normally. Even worked on a couple of old RD450's in 1950's model Red Diamond IH's (IIRC), that were a straight 6 gasser with air brakes and no spring chambers! I overhauled many of those engines and remember subtle differences in the cylinder heads that would change compression ratios considerably, a plug that was commonly left out of the heads at the machine shop that would cause no oil pressure, a 3 bolt exhaust flange indicating the engine was a 392 and a 2 bolt exhaust flange was a 345. Grampy is right about setting the timing on #8, it was stamped right into the valve cover. Most of them were hydraulic brakes with a single circuit MC that made for scary stories when the brakes let go. I had one customer that didn't have the money to fix his whining ring and pinion and chose to drive the truck that way for several months. The vibration set up from the noisy diff had a habit of snapping the flare off the end of the brake lines on the back axle- yowser! I remember looking at it the first time thinking someone had cut it with a tubing cutter, because the break was so perfect. What a terrifically durable, simple truck that bred a loyal following to this day. IH built very strong gassers as they had to hold together pulling a ton of weight. This was in my early "mobile repair" days where I did brakes and clutches on location, frequently outside in the winter working on a sheet of plywood on top of the snow. (Ugh, no wonder my back and knees are screwed up!) Grampy and I should have a few drinks together someday and spin yarns about the old days......

Pitcher of "been", courtesy of the fuck-up fairy? I worked my ass off yesterday and my body was sore as hell when I got home, several stiff drinks really did help the pain. We were out of tequila so I drank JB Scotch and limeade. That frozen limeade is really a good mixer, has anyone else tried it?

Success! Nice job Larry! This one fits the CKP: This one fits the CMP: Here's the CMP and the pigtail that FITS: Here's the business end of the two sensors- note the one ID tab that's different. I'm still surprised I could put the CKP pigtail on the CMP: According to my sources, these are not available from IH without buying a huge box assortment of pigtails for a Grand.

Yep, I've done that, too, back in about 1977 on my '67 Fairlane 289. Just rebuilt the motor and put it back in, to forget the separator plate. Back out it came... I don't think I ever forgot another one after that.

If the leak is intermittent and hard to find, it may be of crankcase vapors from a weird gasket problem or something. A trick I've used to find leaks like this in the past is to block off the crankcase vent and pressurize the crankcase with the outlet side of the shop vac. This pressurizes the crankcase to about 1 PSI and accelerates any leakage when it's a "only leaks when driving" complaint. Use some common sense when doing this- clean the shop vac out, or somehow prevent dust and dirt from entering the engine. Good Luck!

That's T444E, and the HPOP probably was repairable, if you like to go that way. Some of the parts are listed only for the DT HPOP but fit both. The parts guy is there to sell multi hundred dollar pumps, not ten dollar kits. Oil could be coming from anywhere so I won't be of much help. I've never seen the big plugs in the heads be intermittent, usually if they're leaking they're pissing big time. Your '02 has the newer style plug with the grooved head and blue o-ring that's not prone to leak, anyway. I'd be suspicious of the fuel pump, a bad HPOP, or other bastard leak. I'd power wash it, run it outside at WOT and crawl around it with ear muffs on. Good Luck!

Well, I was looking at the photos above and realized the ID pins DON'T line up. I took a closer look at the CMP and connector at the shop to find the lower ID pin on the CMP isn't lining up and that's why it gave a tighter fit. Oddly enough, it went on, just not as easily. (There must be a ton of slop in the connector to allow this.) Shaving the lower (opposite the retainer clip) ID on the CMP would make it fit pretty much perfect, but that's damaging a good CMP. I'll look at the OE harnesses tomorrow for some more research.....

It must have been a programming change. According to the coffee table book, a 297 sets neither the MIL or wrench lights.

Do yours look like this? It must be a production mixup.

They call those "square grouper" in Florida, after the reefer bales pushed out of foreign planes at low altitude and picked out of the ocean. Maybe these are baby square grouper?

Dunno, dunno, and dunno. How's that for a clear answer?

Yes, brain slip, .14mg......

What's MFDES at a hot idle? I like to see under 14mg on a 6.0. higher than that indicates fuel starvation or poorly atomizing injectors. Is the power balance test even? I'd fill the secondary FF with Stanadyne or PM17a and see if it made a difference, indicating poor fuel quality (low cetane) or bad injectors. White smoke is commonly misfire from fuel starvation (probably not your problem) or other reasons. Not having a cat could definitely affect this, as it's job is to remove PM and unburned fuel from the exhaust stream. Does the cust say the problem is new or recent? Any history? Does it run perfect?

I have a buddy in England who worked at a Scania dealer the last time I visited him. The trucks were cool, quite advanced for their time, and very simple to work on. This is a cabover tractor, 6 cylinder with individual heads. My buddy liked working on them, but has since changed jobs to Cat (ugh!): The thing that most impressed me about trucks in England is that they are using EBS- Electronic Braking Systems, which is a brake-by-wire system with an air override in case of emergency, and this was almost 5 years ago that I shot these.... There are 5 air and electric cables from the tractor to the trailer! The other freaky thing is that there are virtually no conventionals in Europe, all cabovers, due to tight roads designed in medieval times and congested freeways. Check this out: The forward rear drive (we'd call it in the States) is not a drive axle, but an I-beam with tie rods, just like the front steer axle. It only has one drive axle (the rear one) and the forward rear axle is a load bearing device only, with steering hooked to the steering box with a 10 foot long drag link! It's visible in the engine shot above and running over the fuel tank here:

Ditto, ditto, ditto, I agree 100%. The BG rep I see at a lot of national conferences follows me around like a puppy dog wanting me to promote his product. NFW. I have heard from reliable sources that on VW diesels the intake manifold will close up due to carbon accumulation, requiring the manifold to be removed and chiseled clean.

I don't get this at all. Is this a thinly veiled way to increase revenue?