Bruce Amacker

My experience shows it to be about 50/50% on ICP vs IPR for a given problem, this one could be either. I suggested the ICP because it's easiest to check and swap. When I had the shop, we changed a shitload of both, but more IPRs than ICPs. Lately it seems like it's more ICPs than IPRs. Damon told me a year or two ago that he's never had a bad IPR. I couldn't believe it......

I'm a bit confused about the terminology you're using. I'll assume you mean checking the fuel pressure at the head, and the inlet restriction test. Checking fuel pressure at the head is easily done with a standard style automotive fuel pressure gauge adapted to the 1/8" NPT fittings in the ends of the cylinder head (Gen 2)or the Schrader on the pressure regulator (Gen 1). Note the location of the fittings on the Gen2: Front of the right head and rear of the left head. If you're fighting a tough one, I suggest checking both points to make sure you don't have a clogged check valve at the fuel inlet to the head. There should be a square cast plug in the test hole from the factory. I usually install a Schrader fitting in the Gen2's and bill the customer for it to make things easier. It's only about $4-5 for the fittings- Napa 90-290 Schrader and a 1/8"NPT 45 degree street elbow. If this is confusing, tell me and I'll put up pictures. The restriction test will require the Tee-hose assembly 014-00931-2 to test inlet restriction. On Gen 2 trucks it is common for the screens to clog in the tank, starving the truck for fuel, the complaint is commonly "stalls on the highway, no codes". A regular vacuum gauge will work, spec is 6 inches and I've seen them pull 29" when the screens are clogged with rust. If you don't have the Tee assembly, you could probably make one or rig something up on the inlet side of the fuel pump. No, you don't need the gauge bar. Does this answer your questions?

I've seen this before a couple of times. Didn't we have one on the forum with this problem?

You didn't offer to help?

IMHO, 20 hours for a long block is not enough. I used to quote the same time for a long block as a head job.

IPR at 7.8% is on the low side, I'm thinking the ICP sensor is biased. Backprobe the ICP and check voltage KOEO and idling, which should be .18-.24v and .9v or so. Do you have another one you could try? It should be the later ICP which interchanges with all of the later 7.3 ICP sensors, here's my listing: (Larry!?) ICP sensor 96 and up; marked Julian date 6318 or higher F6TZ-9F838-A 94/95 F4TZ-9F838-A You should be checking all of the normal stuff like fuel quality and pressure, also. Don't forget the diag sheet. Unplug the ICP and I'll bet your problem goes away. Good Luck!

I use both of those cables with Saint with no problems. Good Luck!

The DEF tanks may likely have the Elafix delivery system to prevent cross fueling DEF into the diesel fuel tank. There's a magnet in the filler neck that trips a magnetic latch/sensor in the nozzle tip. No magnet, no nozzle operation. The tank pictured above has this, and my buddy in Britain says they use it over there, too. Let's hope it works correctly. The MB DEF bottles are weird- if you remove the bottle cap and invert the bottle, nothing comes out. There's a patented trick MB nozzle and you actually screw the bottle onto the DEF tank, which is under the hood of the car. The two fittings interact and allow the DEF to flow out of the bottle. All of this might not keep someone from putting gasoline in a DEF tank though. Remember: Stupid SHOULD hurt!

Pull the glow plugs, inspect them and keep them in order. You may have a "clean" GP give away the offending cylinder. Pressurize the cooling system heavily. Leave it set a while with pressure on it and crank the engine over, you should see coolant shoot out of a GP hole. This will give you a direction to go. It's likely to be a head gasket or perforated block as EastEnd said. I've never seen an injector sleeve cause this, but anything is possible. Once you identify the cylinder you might want to pull the injector and sleeve out for inspection before yanking the head. I don't know of a borescope small enough to get in the GP or injector holes, so you may have to go inside to find the problem. Good Luck!

"On the AE"- Are you referring to Auto Enginuity? If so, sometimes AE gives bogus or non-existent codes. Is there another scan tool you can try, preferably an NGS or IDS? Good Luck!

Is this an old rental truck? It sounds like it from the FF you describe.

It's not Saint, but the cable that cares about the com port. If you get an IC4USB, you're home free. There's a wireless cable available for about the same money but might not work on 98-02 IH Lucas Varity ABS systems. I just got the wireless cable last week and it works well so far- but that's a short trial. The IC4USB is a proven cable. http://www.suenterprise.com/Products.asp Don't forget to order the 6 pin/9 pin adapter. The wireless is about the same money. http://www.xscapeez.com/EZTAP.html Good Luck!

DEF usage will be approximately 2-4% of diesel fuel used, depending on what mfr you listen to. This may change under driving conditions, also. DEF tanks will be several gallons in size, partially depending on the size, engine, and usage of the truck. Here's a DEF tank I took a picture of lately which appeared to be about 4-5 gallons in size: And some pics of a truck I took in Paris a few months ago: The tank looked to be about 5 gallons. Current Mercedes cars use a 28 liter tank, IIRC. I bought a 2.5 gallon jug of DEF at TravelCenters of America Truckstop last week for $9.99. ($4/gallon) This was a BUNCH cheaper than the 1/2 gallon bottle I bought at the MB dealer for $8 last spring. These are slides from my Diesel Emissions class, obviously. Anthony is teaching it right now in Marietta, Ohio.....

Larry's talking about the "overflow valve", or return valve on the return line at the rear of the Bosch pump. Pull it out and inspect it. I think it will cause more trouble on a no-start, loses prime problem, but you never know. On the inlet side, there should be a check ball in the filter header like this: The pics are from a DTE but yours should look very similar. Check the PN with the parts department to make sure it's correct for a DT. Make sure the ball is yellow and not shredded. If it's shredded, find the chunkies! If it's a black ball, replace it. They're only about $6. Good Luck!

I've rarely seen this, but the programmer could cause it. Plumb a pressure gauge into the cooling system and observe coolant pressure during hard accel. If it jumps up, you have a problem. You might also power brake it in the shop and see if the coolant tries to purge, or use a combustion gas detector on it. Good Luck!

I'm sure it's as solid as a brick at that point, but it won't matter to me. I'll be in Florida.

I agree, but oddly enough, local ordinances here do not allow CO2 units in automotive shops. Don't ask me why. As for runaways, we have used: 1. Winter coat stuffed in air cleaner. 2. Clipboard stuffed against air inlet. 3. Screwdriver punctured through FF. (I was not there for that one, it was one of my guys. Fuel return hose was crimped/collapsed from asshole drivers with VG's.) Oddly enough, these were all Cummins 855's, even though Class 8's accounted for less than 3% of our sales. You know what an 855 sounds like turning 6 grand after it blows the belts off? It's quite a noise......

PS I had one with the filter header fitting clogged with debris, too. Unbolt the filter header and disassemble it in the solvent tank, and blow out the fittings. I think there's only two bolts holding it to the block. Wood chips seem to be a common substance that clogs the intake system, especially if the fuel gauge doesn't work, as the driver uses a stick to check the fuel level. Does he get a clean broomstick from the shop? No, why bother. This rotten tree branch laying right here will do fine.... Other things found in tanks- silver foils from fuel additive bottle seals, plastic wrapper from a sandwich, (that was invisible sitting in diesel fuel) and a complete size XL sweatshirt. (good story behind that one....) Sidebar: This is a one year pump and engine that got caught in the EPA emissions crossfire. Does it have the infamous cold run complaint with smoke and lack of power? There's a TSI letter on advancing the timing a couple of degrees that does WONDERS for how this engine runs. There's an aneroid update for the pump, too, that should be done by a pump shop if it doesn't run just perfect. I love this engine and know it WELL....... Good Luck!

I went to a garage sale a couple of weeks ago and saw 4 fire extinguishers for sale- 3 5lb and 1 10 lb dry chemical, all with the gauges up. I bought all 4 for $8. I can't believe how stupid people can be.....

I think you're on the right track. IIRC the 7.3 sensor has been updated to a different PN, so comparing PN's might not help. I'd put the sensor on, check KOEO and idle voltages (.17-.24, .8-1.0) run KOER, RT and send it out for a week. The pressure bias might be a bit different, but I've interchanged ICP's on several different occasions with good results. The only one I've had trouble with is an early DT, which takes a different ICP and will cause trouble. Even if it is the wrong sensor with a different bias, it shouldn't cause a stalling complaint. If it were drastically wrong (like the DT) it could cause a lack of power at higher RPM and 1211 (333) code. Jim's right, too, check the harness. Good Luck!

I have nothing on the schedule right now at all in Canada, so a road trip may be needed. What's an LG R560? A laptop? I might suggest the IC3COM/IC4COM cables, too, and they are low in price from SU Ent. Good Luck!

There's a huge pattern failure with the suction tube in the tank coming loose from the fitting from a cracked solder joint. Slide the fuel tank out enough to access the dip tube, remove it, check for a cracked joint, and check for debris that could occasionally be blocking the tube or elbow fitting at the top. I've seen this problem numerous times, and I'm betting the fitting is cracked or the tube has an intermittent obstruction. If the fitting is not cracked, remove the tank and clean it manually- have two guys slosh the tank back and forth holding it between them, and then invert it into a clean white 5 gallon bucket to drain. Put another 2-3 gallons of fuel in it, agitate it manually vigorously again, and invert it again. Keep this up until the fuel comes clear from the tank. You might be surprised at the crap that comes out of the tank. If the dip tube obstructs occasionally, it will give the exact complaint you have. Good Luck!

I can see that and don't disagree because you are a regular user of both softwares. My experience with the occasional user is that they struggle with both SM and DLB. It takes considerable use of both softwares to become proficient and comfortable, leaving the casual user liking Saint much better than SM. Rather than get frustrated and upset, I suggest the casual user get Saint if it is available. The majority of my students use the software less than once per month, because they work on everything from HD trucks to MD trucks, LD trucks, cars, lawnmowers, farm tractors, weedeaters, and plows. In addition to this, most of my students are gov't agencies and large fleets without administrative access to their laptops, which means they cannot install updates. You would not believe how difficult it is to persuade the IT department that you need to update the software on a regular basis. These requests are generally put on the "never to be done list", which frustrates the hell out of the techs. I have fleets who have put in numerous requests dating back over a year that have fallen on deaf ears. Once again, sometimes we don't realize how good we have it. I would freak out if I had to have an IT administrator install software updates for me. Some of the laptops are completely locked up- no access to Explorer or the hard drive at all. They have a special desktop with only a couple of software choices. This is how the IT departments justify their jobs. Most of my students need to abide by "KISS"- keep it simple. SM and DLB are not simple, Saint is.

Hey Guys: For those of you working on IH either without software, or not happy with your software, I have some(perhaps) good news. Service Assistant (SAINT), which is really great, easy to use, engine diagnostics software, is available from SU Enterprises, and they quoted me a really cheap price under $400. I don't know if they'll hold that for anyone,and they would not give me a street price. They just said, "Have them contact us". This is good news because this software is very easy to use, covers all IH electronic engines, has guided diagnostics built in, and does not "time out" or need to be on the internet like later ServiceMaxx does. It's also easier to use than SM. They don't do phone calls, so e-mail them if you're interested, and mention my name. Try it, you'll like it. Subj: RE: Replacement Product Request via SU Enterprise Website From: Sales_001@suenterprise.com (Sales) To: BAmacker@aol.com Bruce, We will be more than happy assisting your students. Please have them contact us and we will provide them with the special package and pricing. Thank you. Sales Department -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: BAmacker@aol.com [mailto:BAmacker@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 02:42 PM To: Sales_001@suenterprise.com Subject: Re: Replacement Product Request via SU Enterprise Website In a message dated 8/19/2009 2:39:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Sales_001@suenterprise.com writes: ServiceAssistant-MD v2.0