Bruce Amacker

The P0344 can be a false code from extended cranking, so I wouldn't put a lot of faith in that one, and the EBP code won't be of much help either. You're on the right track, check FP and quality for a start. The FP regulators are a high maintenance item on these trucks and it need to come apart and be cleaned occasionally. Regarding FP: Use a long hose and don't bleed the air out of it to dampen the pulsations so that you can get a real reading. Massive fluctuations are normal otherwise that will ruin the accuracy of your gauge! Have you checked a fuel sample for clarity and quality? Breeze this thread, as there's good pics and info here: (and the fucking search engine actually worked for once!) http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=23909&page=1 Good Luck!

I don't know all of the base numbers listed, but I'm pretty sure you need to order flywheel bolts, too, IIRC for a later model year with manual trans.... Good Luck!

Have you checked fuel pressure or supply volume? These things were notorious for the mechanical pumps failing. The way I checked the pump for bleedback was like this: (labor intensive) Remove lift pump. Block the outlet with your thumb. Stroke the arm, operating the pump 2-3 times. If it hisses through the intake port (tube), the pump is bad. We found the majority of them bad. Use a pair of 3/8" studs to mount the pump, and if you want to put bolts back in, do so after one stud/nut is tight, as they are not super easy to get at. A floor jack and block of wood under the engine to stretch the motor mount a bit will help with clearance to access the FP, as it's stuffed against the crossmember. Make sure the return line is clear to the switching valve: Pull the return hose off of the top of the injection pump and apply 5psi regulated air to it. Remove the fuel caps and verify there is air coming out of one of the tanks. KOEO, switch the switching valve and verify air flows from the other tank. I've seen the switching valve go bad causing weird starting problems by blocking the return flow. If the return flow is blocked completely, the truck will still run, but start hard. If FP pressure/volume/fuel quality looks good, try a huge dose of additive in the FF. The injection pumps are commonly bad and additive may show an improvement if it is. On the top of the injection pump there is a brass return fitting. Remove it from the pump and look through it, it should have a glass check ball held by a spring. Stick a toothpick or something similar in there to make sure the spring is not broken. if there is junk collected in the return valve that looks like coffee grounds, replace the injection pump. If FP/return is good, put an injection pump on it. I'm surprised I still remember all of this crap! We made LOT of money of these engines...... Good Luck!

I e-mailed it to you, as I still have troubles posting PDF's. Keith has it too, and I'm sure he'll post it. Good Luck!

I've got used ones for sale, $50 each.

I'm curious- why did you need the pic? Hose arrangement?

Still blurry, Jim. Try shooting on a white background the next time as it makes contrast better. You ain't young, you got "the shakes"? What's the PN of the small adapter? I don't recognize that.

14% hot or cold idle? If that's at a hot idle, there might be leaky o-rings on the injectors. IPR command is usually 9-11% at a hot idle, if it's above that there could be "issues", like leaks. Glad you got it fixed!

Are you typing all of this shit on the clock at work?

Yes, you could make one using the above dimensions in my earlier post. It does have to have a specific orifice, .410". I'll look and see if I have the correct adapter for your truck.

Sounds like a bad HPOP to me. No stalling complaints, just a CEL? IPR is 50% at an idle? Wow! It could be low pressure oil starvation, but probably not. I might pull the plug on the reservoir and look inside just for S&G just after an idle shutdown to make sure it's full. Good Luck!

I wouldn't worry so much about a gauge bar as it's not as accurate as a tube of colored water. The pressure being measured is so low, I'd be concerned about the accuracy of the gauge if it had been dropped or handled roughly. Does your oil filler have a screw thread or half-turn? I could loan you the tool if you like. Good Luck!

Is this what you want?

I haven't done one, but I remember guys here saying they de-pin the connectors on the new harness, cut the old harness, tape the old wires to the new harness terminals, and feed it through that way. This eliminates removal of the components. The CKP wiring seems to come to mind.... I'm sure someone else will chime in.

It shouldn't be "hazardous goods" unless it has oil or flammable liquids in it. Drain it (them) well, dry it off externally, and wrap in plastic so it doesn't seep, and box it. It should be good to go. Do you have one or more that's visibly plugged, or you knew from ECT/EOT? I'd be happy to reimburse you postage plus lunch on anything you send. I can mail a check or use PayPal if that's better. I'll PM you my address. Note to self: Buy more bandsaw blades..... Thanks! PS On edit: I'll be at Woodward Dream Cruise next Fri/Sat, usually around 12-13mi roads. Are you going to be there by chance? Anyone else?

Backyard test- take the oil fill cap off and power brake it/ rev the shit out of it and see how much blowby comes out. What year is this? Gen 1's and early '99s are the worst. Have you checked the turbo inlet hose for grit and turbo compressor wheel for dirt wear marks? Physical compression test? From my book: Dusted Engines or excessive crankcase blowby: caused by not having the air cleaner recall done and driving it in dusty areas with a loose air cleaner. The short test to find a dusted engine is to start the engine cold and give it full throttle. If it bogs and hesitates for a short while around 2000 RPM before it goes to full RPM, there may be excessive blowby past the rings. The fix is a longblock and turbo. The Ford tool for measuring crankcase pressure fits on the oil filler, it measures 6" long, 1" O.D., 3/4" I.D., has a .410" orifice at the upper end and the tap for the magnehelic gauge is 3 7/8" from the upper end. The crankcase breather has to be blocked and the engine run at 3300 RPM. Ford published spec of 6" for 97 and earlier or 4" for 99 and newer. Ford's spec for the older IDI trucks is 6" of water at WOT, and require the CDR valve be blocked. Another quickie method is the go WOT and pull the oil filler cap to check for crankcase blow by. Testing crankcase pressure is done with a special tool, and a Magnehelic gauge. If no gauge is handy, a substitute method is several feet of clear vinyl tube looped and colored water. The spec is 4” of water at WOT. I've tested good engines that measure about 4", and bad engines that blow all of the water out of the tube. I have the big gauge set, too, as they can be bought on Ebay cheaply. I have this picture which I think is the correct tool for a 7.3, and it's marked 7.3 PSD, but I'm thinking it should have screw threads on it for the oil cap hole. Maybe it's the IH version. Does yours have screw threads or a half turn oil cap?

Here's a couple of more pics, too bad this cooler wasn't clogged with crap. If anyone has a clogged cooler and wants to donate it, I'll pay shipping to get it here and then cut it open.

I took one apart a while back, too. It was an '04 no-start P0611 IIRC and I couldn't find any physical damage to it. My guess is the small board with the big caps and coils is what failed. I think IH ships the same PN for 6 and 8 cyls as a replacement part and a different PN for 6 cyls from the factory. That means if you install a new IDM (FICM) on an DTEGR it has 8 caps and coils and only 6 are used. Physically they are identical externally, but I haven't disassembled one to verify this. Small board: Big board:

Sounds like a mercy killing to me, seeing the pictures it took.... Is that Kodak 14MP? Holy shit, Batman! That's way more MP than you need, but that's the way things are going these days. Most cameras do a good job these days, and I still use an old Olympus pocket D-550 3mp for 95% of my shooting that takes better pictures than 4-5 newer, bigger cameras that I have. Buy your camera from somewhere that has a 14-30 day return policy and run the shit out of it shooting stupid stuff during that time. I recently bought an Olympus FE370 8mp pocket camera that seemed to take a good picture until I took it on a big vacation and found out that it didn't take quite as great of a shot as I thought. Good Luck!

Well, I finally got around to cutting open the cooler and shooting some pics of it. The port on the right with the protrusion is a coolant port, the left side port is an oil port. The cooler was cut with a bandsaw on the short side and cleaned in a bead blast tank, no other prep was done. The camera is an Olympus E-300 8mp with a Zuiko 1:3.5 35mm macro lens. I don't know what the manufacturing process is, maybe sonic welding or something? I believe it is assembled in layers of plates like a sandwich, one layer at a time. There are fins present in both the oil side and coolant side of the cooler, which is why these units cannot be cleaned. They act as a "filter" of sorts, trapping crud that makes it past the filter on the oil side, and trapping cooling system crud and casting leftovers on the coolant side. The reason there's crud on the oil side is because the oil filter runs in bypass mode when the oil is cold, so not all oil is filtered. I should send this thing to Damon for shots, as he's become somewhat of a macro photographer guru lately, taking great shots of things up close.

I'd be looking hard at fuel quality right now. Do you have any conditioner? KOEO/KOER/Buzz/Cont DTC's all zero? What baffle kit are you referring to? Good Luck!

I had a 6.0 a few years ago (relatively new, still under warranty) that was at the dealer several times for performance complaints. It turned out to be a bad HFCM aerating the fuel internally intermittently. I took it apart and could not find the fault, but a new HFCM fixed it. It was a MF to diag due to the intermittent nature of the complaint, we ended up with inlet and outlet buckets and lines proving it was aerating. Perhaps the auto-bleed nature of the secondary FF was just barely enough to get rid of the air generated. Any source of air will show up in the return line, but if the cyl balance graph shows misfires only one one side, you could probably bet it's an injector.

8 new Alliants from Larry and a new HFCM.

Brad: Excellent documentation and demonstration of a great concept! Don't you have something going on with cyls 4 and 7, though? Here's a slide I use in class from a leaking (loose) injector killing a bank: