Bruce Amacker

Better pull the oil cooler up and check the HP intake screen. I bet it's junk, and maybe the HPOP too. Good Luck!

DEF tank goes low- ECM derates 25%. Tank goes empty, ECM limits road speed to 5mph. Gotcha!

It's a sewer P-trap to keep those nasty exhaust gasses from backing up and stinking up the cab. Didn't you guys know that?

I was in LA on vacation.....

What's your altitude? 300 is quite low, you know, right? What's MFDES at a hot idle? It should be between 8-12mg on a good engine, higher indicates fuel starvation from low FP or bad injectors. I'd suggest filling the FF with Stanadyne and seeing if it changes the way it runs/smokes. Low quality low cetane fuel will do this, too. Even with low compression, a set of injectors is likely to help. Good Luck!

I never worried about damaging a crank when replacing sleeves on large engines as we always installed them with RTV as a lube/sealer anyway. BTW, the seal manufacturers like CR make super thin repair sleeves for virtually any size shaft that still use the OE size seal. They are super cool, machined out of paper thin stainless steel with a flange that is "torn off" after the sleeve is installed on the shaft. This leaves an almost imperceptible sleeve in place, repairing the wear groove or rot that existed. The install tool is a simple sheetmetal cup that pushes the sleeve in place and is discarded after use. A nice shot of the sleeve and install tool is at: http://www.alliedbearings.com/mfg_prod/seals/cr_speedi/index.html Cool, but not cheap- they averaged $25 a few years ago. For common applications like SBC harmonic there are $3 cheezy stamped versions available from your FLAPS.

Yep, I'll be there doing the A9 and renewing my L2. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=19457#Post19457 It should be good for a laugh....

IIRC, according to law anything produced after January 1 can be titled for the following year. That's how they skipped 1998 F-350s, they built 1997s into late 1997 and '99's were released shortly after that.

Without more information, we're kind of shooting in the dark. I'd suggest the basics- KOEO, KOER, DTC tests, fuel pressure test under load, and scan data observation while the problem is occurring. Remember you have to do 4 things to get all of the trouble codes out of a Powerstroke- KOER, KOEO, buzz test, and continuous codes. If you just hook up and pull codes you're not getting them all. Your problem sounds EGR or turbo related, but it's too early to tell. You say "run into town"- what kind of scan tool do they have in town? The Ford diagnostic sheets are worth gold in a case like this, and they are contained in the Coffee Table Books listed to your left. Find the appropriate diag sheet and follow it closely, it will identify the problem correctly 95% of the time. If you can't find the diag sheet, e-mail me and I'll sent it to you. Good Luck!

This is ugly. As for your 336 and 341, they are likely false DTC's from cranking too long. Ignore them if RPM reads correctly in scan data while cranking. Your metallic oil is going to be a problem, I'd probably pull the LPOP out for inspection because it's the easiest to get at, but it's likely you're going deeper inside very soon. An oil analysis is not a bad idea if you have a bit of time or a Cat dealer nearby, who can commonly do it on the spot. Napa/Wix PN 4077, $14. Good Luck!

May I offer some constructive criticism? This 4 amp fog light was not nearly enough draw to properly check the system. Two things you could have done better: 1. Use a higher amp draw load to test the system. I have not only a sealed beam (that only draws 2.2 amps, IIRC) but a blower motor that draws about 10 amps. I'm guessing you hooked up the fog lamp and judged the circuit "good" by the brightness of the lamp. Right? 2. Using any load, if you had voltage dropped the circuit while the load was in place, I'm betting you would have found the fault very quickly. This means using the PCM (engine running) as a load, or your fog light. Hook a DVOM from B+ at the battery positive post to the PCM power input (pin 71 or 97 with a BOB), or backprobe the PCM power relay output terminal, or even ANY fuse in the fuse box would have shown your problem quickly. A: The circuit must be loaded while doing this test (circuit on, which means motor running). B: Voltage drop from B+ to the load should be less than .5v. Even your small fog lamp probably would have shown VD out of range if properly tested. Example: Hook up fog lamp at either the PCM power in or PCM power relay. Check VD from B+ to the hot side of the fog light. I'd be willing to bet it would have shown high. The problem is you "trusted" your eyes to tell you the fog lamp was bright enough, and it might have been running on a 2v drop. BTDTGTTS. In the future, hook up a BOB if you have one and run your voltage drops according to the book. If you don't have a BOB, you can probe the output of the power relays for your test location on the positive side quite easily. You'll have to backprobe the PCM connector (7.3 104 pin) or pierce (ugh!) the wire to get a test point. Note- I'm pretty sure you can backprobe the 7.3 PCM but not the 6.0 PCM. With a 6.0 you've got to buy the $300 BOB adapter. PS: Don't EVER hook power or ground to a BOB to jumper the circuit. Those 30 gauge wires won't handle ANY amperage! Have a great day!

It's a rough lesson in EMI/RFI. The tough ones you'll never forget. I teach lessons like these in my Electrical and ABS classes. That was warranty and the core went back, right? I'd like to have that SOB.

http://www.autotap.com/product.asp?SKU=ATHDW

The Genisys is not a bad scan tool and does well on most automotive platforms. It has good bidirectional controls on everything but Ford CAN vehicles. It's poor on HD trucks using the HD setup and 9 pin Deutsch connector. I am a strong proponent of OEM scan tools for obvious reasons but realize smaller shops cannot afford an array of OE scan tools. I also hate Snap-On scan tools for the same reasons already stated. If you held a gun to my head and forced me to buy an aftermarket scan tool, the Auto Enginuity software program is the best bang for the buck. Get the Pro version which costs about $1200 and it will do nearly everything the Modis or Genisys does at a fraction of the price. The only thing AE does not have is a "Pathfinder" or "Troubleshooter" program, which is OTC/SO's "guided diagnostics". Regardless of which aftermarket scan tool you purchase, remember its abilities will be very pale when compared with IDS/PDS. The aftermarket tools do a much better job on GM/Chrysler/Toyota/FordSCP etc with bidirectional controls. As for HD generic scan tools, I'd suggest AutoTap for Trucks. It is a software based system that is only $699 (with the comm cable) that will do everything a Genisys or Modis will on HD vehicles at a fraction of the price. (the HD setup for Modis is almost $2000 list!) Remember it will pull/clear codes and view limited data stream with no trick tests available. Most HD comm cables cost $500-800 so essentially you get the software for free. Another great tip is that the AutoTap comm cable works with most IH, Allison, Cat, Cummins, etc. software for general use. Good Luck!

That's the problem- they're not good.

So far it's on my schedule, I'll be there as long as my wife doesn't override me. I will have just returned from LA the day before, so things could come up. I've been trying to find an excuse to stop at the Motown museum so maybe I'll tie that in at the same time. Thanks!

I have not used the INT5000, but I'll warn you of some of the pitfalls of aftermarket scan tools. First, Ford is the only major auto manufacturer that never released the CAN bidirectional code to ETI, which is a trade group for aftermarket scan tool manufacturers. That means if you work on a FMC CAN vehicle, you are limited to pulling codes, KOER, KOEO, Buzz test, clearing codes and viewing limited data stream. All of the cool bidirectional tests in the IDS are not available in any aftermarket scan tool. If the tool can do module programming (reflashing) it will likely take you 30-60 minutes to perform this task with numerous steps of identifying the programming level, checking whether it is the latest level, downloading (and paying for) the latest flash level,and installing it into the PCM. We are SERIOUSLY spoiled by the fabulous qualities of the IDS. Second, on an HD truck aftermarket scan tools are similarly limited. You will be able to read and clear codes and read very limited scan data. You will not be able to program, (other than maximum road speed and some PTO parameters) even though the MFR will likely state "programming capabilities" in their advertisement. I have used the Genisys and it is really limited. Beware: If you buy an aftermarket scan tool, you will have the ability to do 25% of what the factory scan tool can do. Good Luck!

Have you searched www.car-part.com? It's a junkyard search. You'll need to know AT or MT and whether the AIR is in the head or exhaust manifold, but I punched it in and there's hundreds of them listed from $100 on up. Here's some local if it's AT with the AIR in the head: 1995 Engine Ford Truck F150 $450 Global Auto Parts USA-MI(Detroit) Request_Quote 1-313-866-8888 Request_Insurance_Quote 4 1993 Engine Ford Truck F150 $400 Global Auto Parts USA-MI(Detroit) Request_Quote 1-313-866-8888 Request_Insurance_Quote 4 1994 Engine Ford Truck F150 BUIL1 $350 Global Auto Parts USA-MI(Detroit) Request_Quote 1-313-866-8888 Request_Insurance_Quote 4 1992 Engine Ford Truck 150 GOOD NOF $300 Broadway Auto Parts, Inc. USA-MI(Detroit) Request_Quote 1-313-368-4062 Request_Insurance_Quote 4 1995 Engine Ford Truck F150 4.9L, GAS, TESTED GOOD, WARRANTY 4691YD $400 Holbrook Auto Parts USA-MI(Highland-Park) Request_Quote 1-313-868-2024 Request_Insurance_Quote 5 1995 Engine Ford Truck F150 -6-300 (4.9L), gas (VIN Y), AIR in head, P202 $500 Price Used Cars & Parts Here's the cheap ones: 1994 Engine Ford Truck F150 SELLING ALL THE WAY NOW 68K 0 A 073865 $299.99 Glen's Car and Truck USA-MI(Taylor) Request_Quote 1-800-297-9393 Request_Insurance_Quote 12 1994 Engine Ford Truck F150 6-300 (4.9L, VIN Y), AIR in head, w/E4O- W1254 $299 Jack's Used Cars and Parts USA-MA(North-Billerica) Request_Quote 1-888-873-5225 Request_Insurance_Quote 601 1996 Engine Ford Truck F150 6-300 (4.9L), gas (VIN Y), AIR in head,- W1175 $299 Jack's Used Cars and Parts USA-MA(North-Billerica) Request_Quote 1-888-873-5225 Request_Insurance_Quote 601 1996 Engine Ford Truck F150 120DAY WARRANTY. WH-CP 965003 $299 CTS Auto Parts, Inc. USA-MI(Taylor) Request_Quote 1-734-282-1700 Request_Insurance_Quote 12 1995 Engine Ford Truck F150 COMPARE ENGINE W/CORE ?YEAR 000111 $299 Riddle's Auto Salvage USA-IN(Marion) Request_Quote 1-800-515-1755 / 1-765-674-5547 Request_Insurance_Quote 182 1994 Engine Ford Truck 150 RAN GREAT TRANS GOOD RED 60,237 --km-- 97,000 A J1062 $280 --Can-- $350.00 Mike's Auto Parts Can-ON(Stoney-Creek) E-mail 1-800-667-8016 1-905-385-9292 177 1991 Engine Ford Truck 150 4.9L,W AC,OD,AIR IN HEAD,NOTES 134,000 A 014487 $279.98 Abco Fridley Auto Parts USA-MN(Fridley) E-mail 1-800-784-8890 1-763-784-8890 541 1990 Engine Ford Truck F150 6-300 (4.9L, VIN Y), AIR in head, w/E4O- 906204 $250 Chesney Auto Salvage USA-MN(Duluth) Request_Quote 1-800-826-2941 Request_Insurance_Quote 548 1990 Engine Ford Truck F150 (4.9L, VIN Y), RAN GOOD 185,000 A 11766 $250 Heights Auto Parts USA-MI(Lansing) Request_Quote 1-800-942-0664 Request_Insurance_Quote 81 1993 Engine Ford Truck F150 068485 $250 Bryant's Auto Parts USA-IL(Westville) E-mail 1-800-252-5087 285 1996 Engine Ford Truck F150 C-AT,OD,RUNS GOOD 163,000 A 057805 $250 Bryant's Auto Parts USA-IL(Westville) E-mail 1-800-252-5087 285 1994 Engine Ford Truck F150 XLT,4.9,MFI,ATOD,RWD ,R134a JH0711 $250 John's Auto Parts USA-IN(Terre-Haute) E-mail 1-812-232-9444 306 1994 Engine Ford Truck F150 CHECK AIR/GOOD MOTOR JH0721 $250 John's Auto Parts USA-IN(Terre-Haute) E-mail 1-812-232-9444 306 1994 Engine Ford Truck F150 4.9,AOD,1/94,EFI,RWD JH1012 $250 John's Auto Parts USA-IN(Terre-Haute) E-mail 1-812-232-9444 306 1995 Engine Ford Truck F150 ,CORE 980014 $250 A-OK Salvage USA-LA(Eunice) E-mail 1-337-457-8085 966 1993 Engine Ford Truck F150 4.9 W E4OD 0 A $250 Tittle's Auto Wrecking USA-OH(Galion) E-mail 419-468-5566 / 877-886-5566 114 1995 Engine Ford Truck F150 NICE RUN GREAT ON SHELF 94,000 A AA131 $250 Tittle's Auto Wrecking USA-OH(Galion) E-mail 419-468-5566 / 877-886-5566 114 1996 Engine Ford Truck F150 -(4.9L), gas (VIN Y), AIR in head, w/E4O J229 $240 --Can-- $300.00 S and L Auto - No US Shipping Can-ON(London) E-mail 1-519-659-1360 105 1991 Engine Ford Truck F150 $225 NTA Saint Clair Recycled Auto Parts USA-MN(Saint-Clair) E-mail 1-800-730-0565 553 1996 Engine Ford Truck F150 RAN FINE, HAD 163K ,CORE,NO PAN 163,000 A 05337 $200 Smith's Auto Parts and Sales USA-IA(Fairfield) Request_Quote 1-800-452-1095 Request_Insurance_Quote 464 1996 Engine Ford Truck 150 090082 $175 B and R Auto and Truck Parts USA-MN(Mapleton) E-mail 1-800-354-7881 558 1990 Engine Ford Truck 150 CORE 080702 $100 B and R Auto and Truck Parts USA-MN(Mapleton) E-mail 1-800-354-7881 558 1993 Engine Ford Truck 150 CORE 070639 $100 B and R Auto and Truck Parts USA-MN(Mapleton) E-mail 1-800-354-7881 558 Good Luck!

Are there any local guys around who follow the Tribe? I have lower box seats that I occasionally cannot use.....

This is a bit out of the box, but there have been bad starters that generate enough EMI/RFI to upset the crank sensor signal and cause a no-start or hard start. I've only heard of it and never seen it first hand. I've heard of it twice on Ford gas engines and I know it is a pattern failure on some Nissan engines. The only way to diag it is to scope the CKP and CMP while cranking or sub another starter in. Real far fetched: what do you know about fuel quality and FP pressure? This sounds like a gasser with a weak fuel pump and the gasoline is boiling in the fuel rail after a hot soak. I've seen it many times, sometimes the pressure will be fine but the volume is low. When this happens on a gasser (with a return system), the FP can't flush the vapors out of the rail and back to the tank that occur after a hot soak. Cold start, OK, immediate hot restart, OK, but go into the store for 20 minutes and it won't start. A new fuel pump fixes it. Could this happen on a diesel with poor fuel quality? Have you checked the fuel pressure, quality sample, or filters? Does this truck have the fuel pressure sensor update? Have you tried the injector test light tool to verify the injectors are not receiving a signal while cranking? Could the CKP/CMP codes be false from extended cranking? I know these are a stretch, but it's all I could think of. Good Luck!

Oh my God, that's FUNNY!

But I'm betting it's going in a pre-emissions vehicle, right? Same here- my modern daily drivers are all bone stock and correct, but my classics are modified....

Maybe they're referring to the Loctite,and if you don't warm up the area you might rip the threads out. I have seen plenty of thread damage at that hole and was glad when the longer plug was released.

Just for S&G, check the resistances of all injectors you have laying around. The spec I use is 2.77- 3.17 ohms acceptable resistance. IH also had a weird problem on T444Es with the seat hammering out in the high pressure oil poppet valve, lowering the armature and causing an electrical circuit fault (421?) on the defective injector. The fix was to re-shim the magnet on top of the injector to the proper height after taking a measurement with a depth mike. I think I talked about this a while ago. The odd thing was that the ECM set an electrical circuit fault when it happened, and the real problem was the magnet had to pull the armature (the flat steel plate under the magnet) farther up, which pissed off the ECM. Good Job!