Bruce Amacker

Especially since it's in my backyard......

I'm wondering if the "horrendous noise" is coming from the radio during the blink cycle due to a ground loop. Also, a ground problem would answer the heated seat issue. I'd first check the schematic for a ground that is common to these three circuits, locate it, and verify it is clean and tight. Keep an eye open for aftermarket accessories installed improperly where they may have drilled or screwed into a harness. If this was in my bay, I'd do a ground voltage check. Run the engine, turn on all accessories, put your DVOM negative lead on the battery negative (you did check the battery terminals, right?) with a 20' extender, and probe every piece of metal in the car to check ground voltage. I probe the engine block, trans (even though it's bolted to the motor), manifolds, every module bracket, ig key, park brake bracket, seat mounting bolt, etc. Probe every piece of bare metal that you can lay eyes on in the entire car, even the trunk. No voltage reading should exceed .050VDC. Make a mental note of voltages and if some are a bit higher, concentrate in that area. Pay strong attention to ground voltages in the circuits that are giving grief- find the grounds for the turn signals, radio, and seat heaters and test those. While you're there, check your charging system AC voltage. Most are in the .02-.05VAC range with the motor running, of course. Good Luck!

You could use my books as a format for teaching them the proper ways of doing diagnostics. They are full color, 289 pages, with a picture on every page and usually a short paragraph explaining the graphic. Very clear, detailed, easy to understand descriptions of procedures are included for all of the common electrical tests. They are formatted for a 16 hour class, but in your situation, I'd suggest doing a few pages each day, at break or at lunch, as the info will absorb in better that way. They will always have the book for quick reference a long time from now when they can't quite remember how...... Here's a couple of pages from the book so you'd have an idea of what you're getting: We add an electromagnet to pull the switch closed- our “Remote Control.” Hooking power to D and grounding pin E would create a magnetic force, pulling the switch shut, just as if you threw it yourself. This is called the Control Side. Adapters: PN CT6100 from Matco or Snap-On, $15 You’d think it would be easy to insert a male spade into the fuse terminals, but it isn‘t so. Don’t forget how important it is not to damage the fuse terminal connectors by spreading them out. If you spread out a fuse terminal you will build a ghost into the vehicle like you’ve never seen before! Voltage drop on a starter positive is measured from the battery positive post to the starter hot stud. It must be measured with the starter cranking! To disable the engine from starting, unplug the crank sensor, disable the injectors, or coil packs. Website price on this book is $79.95. If you buy a few I'll sell them for $60. I promise you won't be disappointed in the book. (Sorry for the blatant ad, Keith!)

My Level 1 Electrical Troubleshooting class is 16 hours and covers: DVOM use (volts, Ohms and amps), voltage drops, proper testing of starters and alternators, circuit protection, relay use and relay circuit testing. It does not cover any computer circuits, sensors, or driveability issues. It barely touches on Schematic Interpretation, which is a Level 2 16 hour class. It is a very "hands-on" class with each student getting a demonstrator board and completing numerous tests in the classroom with a DVOM. After a strong background in the basics, the class goes into the shop to perform live testing on a car and MD truck. Tests include: alt voltage drop, starter voltage drop, battery testing, alternator testing, starter amperage testing, key off parasitic drain, and the completion of a 10 minute electrical check sheet. We've taught this class numerous times and find that on the average: 10-20% of the students excel at all areas before the class starts. 50% gain a large amount of knowledge during the class 25% learn only a little and probably never will become proficient at electrical theory. (some guys will never "get it".) It's surprising how many techs think a relay is a circuit protection device, and at least 3/4 of techs do not know how to diagnose a relay circuit. (Using a test light to look for power, load, ground, and trigger) Anthony does 90% of our classes, but I'll be doing this class and a 16 hour 6.0 PSD class in Salem, Oregon in a couple of weeks. They are for the Oregon Fire Mechanics Association and some of the few classes we do that are open to the public. Damon and I wrote this diag sheet several years ago, it's what we use in class. If anyone wants it is a MS Word format, let me know. I also use a car version of it in class (single battery). WORK ORDER STARTING & CHARGING and BASIC ELECTRICAL Worksheet , IH 4000 Series TEST BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE: Perform visual check- loose posts, bulging cases, leaks, etc. Check electrolyte level and gravity if possible. Start engine, record volts at high engine idle TIP: Voltage should be 13.6 or higher here; if low, amps measured should be high. RESULTS ______________ Volts [OK / FAILED below 13.6V] Measure alternator amperage output: wait for amperage to stabilize low (below 15 amps if possible) TIP: If amps do not come down after 5 minutes of high idle speed, charge batteries with charger or replace, if authorized and stop further testing. DO NOT LOAD BATTERIES DURING THIS PORTION OF TEST! (Checking charge rate excludes shorted batteries) RESULTS __________Volts @ ___________Amps (no load) [OK / FAILED above 15A] BATTERY OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE CHECK Remove at least one battery cable to isolate the batteries and record battery voltage with engine OFF. TIP: Voltage should be 12.5 Volts or higher at this point. If voltage is 12.45 or less, and the truck has been out of service, charge batteries. If voltage is less than 12.4 and the truck has been in service (with good alternator), remove battery cables and test voltage independently. Good batteries and a good alternator will NOT be under 12.5v. If over 12.8, remove surface charge with headlights and blower motor for 5 minutes. Battery 1 Measurement:______________________V Battery 2 Measurement:______________________V BATTERY LOAD TEST Remove cables from battery(ies) to isolate. Perform carbon pile load test at ½ rated CCA for 15 seconds on each battery. Alternate method: load to 9.6v for 15 seconds and record amperage. Use this method and double this number to determine CCA capacity of battery if no label is present. Battery 1 _______ Volts @ ___________ Amps (15 seconds) [OK / FAILED] Battery 2 _______ Volts @ ___________ Amps (15 seconds) [OK / FAILED] Continue: Volts should recover to 12.6 after 5 minutes rest. [YES / NO] TEST ALTERNATOR Step 1: Visual check of belt tension and integrity of alternator mount (not loose). Load Test: Using carbon pile, load battery to 12.0 Volts with engine at 2000rpm; record amperage output of alternator TIP: Amps output should be alternator rated output +/- 10% …keep amps pickup at least 6” away from alternator case, due to magnetic interference. RESULTS Max Amps output ____________Amps. [OK / FAILED] AC DIODE TEST Check AC voltage (at alternator if possible; if not, check at battery) using DVOM set on AC voltage and record. Most will read between .02VAC and .05VAC RESULTS ________________Volts AC. [OK / FAILED at .2vac] Test alternator voltage drop: With engine running, measure voltage between alternator hot stud and positive battery post, with a DVOM set on DC Volts. (.4v max) Measurement:______________________________ With engine running, measure voltage between alternator case (ground) and negative battery post with a DVOM set on DC Volts (.3v max) Measurement:______________________________ TEST STARTER DRAW: Disable cam sensor and measure amp draw of starter: 500 amp surge OK, should stabilize at 350-400 amps for 10 seconds. Measurement :___________________________________amps TEST VOLTAGE DROPS: Test starter voltage drops: Measure voltage from starter positive stud to battery positive stud while cranking, with a DVOM set on DC Volts. Voltage should be under .5v Measurement:_______________________________ Measure voltage from starter ground stud (or starter case) to battery negative post while cranking, with a DVOM set on DC Volts. Voltage should be under .5v Measurement:_______________________________ Cab Power Feed Voltage Drop Test: The cab 12v hot power stud is located behind the fuse box in the dashboard, with several eyelets mounted to it. Measure voltage level between this stud and the battery positive post with cab heater and all lights on, with a DVOM set on DC Volts. Voltage should read less than .2v. Measurement______________________________________________ Cab Ground Voltage Drop Test: Measure voltage between the battery ground stud and a metal dashboard screw on the lower left of the dashboard with a DVOM set on DC Volts. All accessories and lights should be on. Voltage should read less than .4v. Measurement______________________________________________

I'm not so sure the diag sheet's going to help a lot on this one, besides documenting your time to get paid. I'd try a cam sensor, as they have a tendency to do weird things occasionally. Do you have the cylinder shorting box/harness tool that interfaces with the 42 pin connector? MFDES is a PID representing fuel delivery to injectors. MFDES at a hot idle in neutral is usually 8-12, but if you have weak injectors it might be 15-18. This PID can be used to determine which injector or cylinder is not contributing to engine performance. Cancel each cylinder with the kill box while watching MFDES. The cylinders with the least amount of change when compared to your base number will be the weak ones. This is not a dead set test and should be run several times to verify its outcome. The MFDES number will move around substantially under normal operation. Run Contribution test in “Drive” if it’s an automatic. CAS GND- Difference in voltage between Fuel Pump Relay ground and PCM ground. Not a perfect way to check PCM ground, but worth looking at. Should read damn close to zero. Good Luck!

Look at Perdels when idling hot to identify which cylinders are weak. Cyls 1-7 should be under 1%, Cyl #8 can be 2-2.5%. If they are higher than that, you have injector problems. Good Luck!

I'd make a sheet metal shim to block off the HPOP inlet, bolt the HPOP in place with the inlet blocked, and see if the reservoir still drains out. You could have a bad new HPOP. It would suck if you pulled the motor and went through it, to later find a bad new HPOP. I'd also do the "aeration test", where you put a hose in the EOP sensor and take a sample at WOT hot. The oil should not look foamy. There have been a few cracked pickup tubes in the pan causing weird problems, and an occasional bad gasket where the pickup tube meets the front cover. Good Luck!

Probably not what you're looking for, but I have IH PN 2501106C1 or ZTSE4437-4 in my notes. I don't have the Ford numbers. Good Luck!

Is that enough crap for you to read? I think I'd get the cranking RPM up, change the oil, let her fly and see what happens. Maybe the DTCs are from weak batteries. Did you change the FF or take a fuel sample? Throw some lubricity enhancer in, too. If I had a nickel for every 7.3 I've fixed.....

You're definitely on the right track. The only things I'd add is to check the glow plug amperage to verify the system is working correctly. Put an inductive clamp on one of the relay leads and have a buddy turn on the key. It should hit around 190 initially, and taper off to 125 after 15 seconds. Verify cranking RPM is above 150 cold, it should be about 175 warm. With it sitting that much, I'd disconnect the batteries and load test them individually, too, even though they are new. If they've been run dead a couple of times, they're junk. '99's seem to have the most problem with the UVC harness becoming disconnected, too. Do you have a known good IDM for a test unit, if it comes to that? Good Luck!

The oil test port on the top of the oil reservoir is pressurized (obviously), as that's where the OPS is for the "dummy gauge" on the dash. (it's not a true gauge, but a needle activated by an on/off switch) The OPS is at the same place on all 7.3 DIT engines. Kevin: Your reservoir is still draining out after it sits?

Check your specs- IH shows minimum 10psi hot idle, 35psi minimum at WOT. What's your oil pressure hot? (you'll need to drive it)

Put an oil pressure gauge in and see what your base oil pressure is. The pressure switch port is on the top of the reservoir housing.

Right, and in the IH system, it won't set a DTC unless ICP tops out in the 1800PSI range.

Yep, and sometimes they will idle poorly, miss, or have a lack of power like you said when the pump is out. Evidently the plunger in the injector will draw enough vacuum to pull fuel all of the way from the fuel tank if the lift pump is inop. Odd how they'll idle poorly, like some injectors are bad....

Every HEUI engine I've ever worked on would run with its primary fuel pump inop or bad. Until you open the fuel system, that is.....

I disagree with this statement. I'll respectfully state that I have had many students tell me horror stories about taking the truck to a dealer (sometimes repeatedly) for an ABS light, having the tech push the sensors in, clear codes, and return the truck to the owner, only to have the light come back on quite soon. In the interest of keeping a customer happy: If the sensor works loose on a new truck with no miles, it's because the wheel bearing(s) are just a shade loose. (BTDTGTTS, many times) If the sensor works loose on an older truck with higher miles, it's because the barrel clips have lost their tension, or a combination of problems. (BTDTGTTS, many times) Sensors don't work loose for no reason. Especially with IH trucks (which use this same Wabco system and a very similar Bendix ABS system) this is a pattern failure and a pattern assache for customers. Being that all major MD/HD truck mfr's use the same axle/brake suppliers, I'd go out on a limb to say this must be a pattern failure across most truck mfr lines. I'm not sure what the real problem is- political, where the tech isn't paid properly for his diag, being too busy/shorthanded in the service dept and needing to "get it done", laziness on the tech's part, lack of experience, or unwillingness to be thorough in doing the repair. I'll respectfully disagree with you in a very strong way- WSS don't walk out because of a stone hit, and if the rust is bad enough to push the sensor out, the barrel clip has seen better days, in addition to wanting me to ask what else is borderline in there after enough rust has built up to "push a sensor back". I've seen too many times where the customer is tired of taking the truck back to the dealer for the same old "light" and either lives with it or takes it to another shop. When I had my shop, we did plenty of "warranty" work at full boat. This means the cust was so fed up with their local dealer's service dept that they would rather pay me full retail than get the repair for free at their selling dealer. I sold a major training account because of this several years ago. During a sales presentation, a fleet manager told me this exact story of repeat WSS codes and techs who pushed the sensors in and cleared the DTCs on new trucks. I told him exactly what I said in my first post on how to have his techs diag it themselves in 30 minutes or less. It turned out to be loose wheel bearings- not loose enough to feel with a prybar, but tightening the nut one flat fixed a bunch of his trucks with the same problem. He's been a dedicated training customer for quite a few years now. I'm trying to make a point and be respectful at the same time.

Topside creeper seems to be the tool of choice among my students. Napa had them for very cheap lately. ($200?)

There are several different PN barrel clips made by Bendix, Wabco, and TRW/Kelsey Hayes that look ALMOST alike and almost interchange but are specific to a WSS and it's composition.(stainless steel sheath, plastic sheath, etc) The wrong clips may install and function correctly, but I'd beware of not using the proper PN clip. A page from my book showing some Bendix sensors that will not interchange with TRW sensors that look alike: PS The "clips" need a special grease to keep them from corroding. High temp brake grease might work. Good Luck!

+1 on this. 95% of the problems with this ABS system are in the wheel end with bad barrel clips, rotted reluctors and loose wheel bearings most common. It should have barrel clips holding the sensors in. They lose their tension with time and heat, allowing the sensor to walk out, decreasing the output voltage and setting a WSS code. Push the sensors in, there should not be any appreciable travel when pushed. If they move, the barrel clips are junk or the wheel bearings are too loose. It's a good idea to change the barrel clips as a maintenance item. Then pull the sensors out and inspect the tips for excessive wear and examine the reluctor at the same time for rust. Some wear is normal but if copper shows they're bad. They might have a steel pin in the center of the sensor showing, and that's OK. I'm not sure if your truck will have reluctors pressed onto the hubs, or cast into the rotor. If it's cast into the rotor, it's not unusual to get 4 rotors to fix this problem in the rust belt when the reluctors are rotted badly. If they're pressed onto the hubs, it's common for a previous "tech" to have bent them by installing the sensors with a hammer. Use only hand effort to push the sensor in. I usually use a standard screwdriver pressed against the base of the sensor and gently smack the bottom of the screwdriver with my hand to seat the sensor. Wheel bearings have to be on the snug side of the adjustment spec as a few thou of end play will result in ABS codes if all of the parts are good. Occasionally you will have a rotted harness or wire, also. If you suspect a wiring problem or bad sensor disconnect the processor and check resistance with a DVOM through the complete WSS circuit. If you have no access to software for diagnostics, unplug the processor and check resistance of each sensor through the complete harness, rather than just the WSS pigtail alone. Compare resistance of all four, I'm thinking 500 to 2000 (2K) ohms might be correct. Then switch your DVOM to ACV and have a stocky buddy spin each wheel and check for ACV from each sensor. Normally you will see .8vac to 1.2vac at 30rpm at the wheel end. The book says .2vac minimum but I'd be concerned if I saw this low. Pay attention not only to the voltage, but also how stable the output is- there should be no more than a couple tenths of variation as the wheel is spun by hand. If it varies by a half a volt, the reluctor is not running true due to rot, damage, loose bearing, etc. Compare notes with all four using this diagnostics and you'll find your bad boy(s). Having the software makes things easier, but manual diagnostics works very well. Good Luck!

No numbers are published. At sea level anything over 400lbs is good, 350 is weak and 300 is really bad. Good Luck!

I do remember an updated harness/rub spot out front near the grill, but I don't remember what circuits it shorted.

Like Grandpa said, it has the wrong additives. Keep your fingers crossed!

Southeast Power Systems?

Good question, and good point. Removing the sulfur is done with a process (called hydrocracking, IIRC) that mixes water with the diesel fuel. The sulfur sticks to the water, which is then separated from the diesel fuel. Unfortunately, this process also dramatically reduces the lubricity level of the diesel fuel, shortening the lifespan of all fuel-lubricated components (pumps, injector barrels and plungers). In my opinion, all diesel powered vehicles should have a lubricity enhancer added to the fuel 100% of the time. This added lubricant will lengthen component life, and can also increase fuel economy. The reason it can increase fuel mileage is that the injector barrel/plunger and spray pattern benefits from this added lubricant. I have had MANY students in class swear that they get better economy when running a lubricity enhancer. I suggest using it for the component advantages, and if it gives better economy, that's a bonus.