Bruce Amacker

The injectors or the D-rings? Last I checked, the D-rings were not available from IH. Happy Turkey Day! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

It's too bad you didn't know the whole story when you started, you could have just put D-rings in some of the injectors (assuming the snap ring groove was not damaged). You do know they are available from the aftermarket, right? http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubb...=true#Post12359 Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Yes, and it's a good question, not a stupid question. I generally hook it to an extension cord and listen at the connection for the "arc" of a circuit connecting passing amperage. It's all about amperage- if amperage is there, the heater is good. You could get creative and use an amp clamp to verify the wattage if you want, but they're usually either "good", or "open". I forget the wattage rating- I'm thinking it's 1000 watts or 1200 watts or something. If it's 1000 watts it would draw about 8 amps, and if it's 1200 watts it would draw about 10 amps. If you use a clamp-on amp clamp, make sure you separate the wires and not clamp both the hot and neutral in the clamp together. If you do that, the magnetic fields will cancel each other out and you'll get a zero reading on the clamp. You can also check it with an ohmmeter to make sure it's not open. Once again, I don't remember the ohm reading, but I'd bet it's only a couple of ohms. I like checking amperage better, it's much more accurate. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I've been reading these posts and trying to bite my tongue. My viewpoint on this problem is that the decline of the US automakers is caused completely by the death grip the unions have on these companies. It makes my blood boil to see what people make in this town, and Cleveland is a very heavy union/autoworker town. We have multiple plants for all of the Big Three here,and they are all in the process of downsizing and closing, but the unions don't get it. They are SO big headed and will absolutely NOT consider big wage concessions to keep their jobs. They blame the Big 3 management, when in truth it is just as Jim says- paying a "grunt" $70 to do a $15 job. On the news the other day it said Toyota pays its non-union workers $38 and hour and they are glad to get it. Little training and no education is necessary to do these assembly jobs. A Big 3 assembly line worker is paid much higher than teachers, lawyers (yes, it is true for most), and other jobs that require 4-6 years of college. My wife has her Master's, almost to her Doctorate in education, worked in a public school system as a guidance counselor her whole life, and never made NEARLY what an assembly line guy makes at GM or Ford. And she's in the teacher's union! WTF is wrong with these UAW people? I am NOT in favor of bailing out the auto industry, but feel it will most likely happen. It's political suicide for any politician to suggest that the unions loosen their "death grip" so my guess is that the Gummint will pour a boatload of good money after bad and down the toilet. If I were running the bailout, I'd only give money once they got their wages in line with what the workers were worth. I have no problem with an assembly line guy getting $38, but $75 makes me furious. To add insult to injury, I know personally of several UAW workers who drive to the plant, punch in, and drive home while on the clock. Another recently told me he runs out of newspapers to read during the day, and they get all of them- so much free time on their hands while "on the clock" that they run out of newspapers to read? And they don't understand why the Big Three are sinking? Oh, my God...... Perhaps I should let you know that I started my career being self-employed in 1978 due to being fired over a union dispute. I was wrenching on construction equipment and joined the Teamsters when I was 18, the company found out about it and fired me immediately. Very illegal, but they got away with it. The Teamsters lied their ass off to me- "we'll get your job back, back pay, big benefits, blah, blah, blah" and it never happened. Do I have a grudge? Yes, and a F*&%$! big one at that. Let the unions drown in their own piss, for all I care....... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif

If you ask ten techs, you'll get ten different procedures. What I'd do is examine the EBP connector, or cut it off, and see if the PCM will talk. if not, I'd put a breakout box on the PCM (not easy on an E-van, but possible) and see what's alive and what's not with a DVOM. 105-R0107 Rotunda BOB adapter adapts your old 104 pin BOB to the new 122 pin setup found on the 6.0. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

The harness or EBP connector is probably screwed up and shorted VREF to Sensor Return (ground). If you short VREF on a three wire sensor to ground, the PCM usually goes into sleep mode and will not communicate. I'd check not only that VREF, but any other VREF circuits- sometimes there's 2-3 separate VREFs. Check them all KOEO and make sure they're 4.9v to 5.1v. Once you correct the short circuit, the PCM wakes up and there's no long term damage done. If you find a problem, replace the EBP and connector pigtail. It's the same PN as the ICP connector, PN 5C3Z-12224-A $55.34 IH 2501105C1 $12.10 Napa EC89 $15.99 Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

OK, I had a bit of time to play today. I found some of the injector cleaner at the shop that I spoke about in the previous post- but it's several years old. I found a slightly crusty EGR and soaked just the lower portion for 4 hours. I then sprayed it off with BrakeClean, (the non-flammable type, not the flammable type that smells like lacquer thinner and removes carbon /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif) but used no brush of any sort to remove the carbon. I think it made quite a bit of difference- enough to warrant a full scale trial on an intake manifold. I'm thinking cork the inlet and EGR holes (no small task), 3-5 pints of injector cleaner, let it soak overnight, and pressure wash it in the morning. I know customers are gonna scream bloody murder about buying a manifold 'cause it's coked up. Especially when it's the better part of a grand at list....... Comments? Can someone get a price and availability on PM-5? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

That's a typical J2534 reflash box and there are about a dozen on the market. SAE set a J2534 standard similar to OBD2 so that the aftermarket could reflash most cars built after 2001ish. It sounds all warm and fuzzy until you go to use it. (I have the Standard Ignition equivalent, the I-Flash). First, you have to read the software level in the PCM with a scan tool (and hope your aftermarket scanner can read it!) Then, you have to go to the Mfr's website and download the free file with all of the software numbers in it, and find the PN you have. In the example I use in class, it happens to be on line 10,230 in an Excel spreadsheet. (I hope you know how to use the "search" function. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif) Next, you determine whether that PN has been updated to a new PN. Once you find a new software PN, then you determine whether that second PN has been updated, and you keep doing this until the PN you are at is no longer updated. Sometimes there are several levels of updates, and obviously you want to put the latest one in, not replace a three year old cal with a two year old cal. Once you have your "final" cal PN, you whip out your CC and pay the website $25 so you can download the latest flash. (Oh yea, you gotta open an account with the Mfr first....) Once you have the flash calibration downloaded into your PC, you transfer it into your laptop so you can flash the vehicle. Hook up the J box, push a bunch of buttons, and blow the flash it. It's not as easy as it sounds! There's a LOT that can go wrong, and it takes considerably longer to do the actual flash than the IDS does. You guys don't realize how good you have it with the IDS. Man, you just don't realize....... If everything goes well, you'll have 30-40 minutes or so in a J box reflash. But, that's if everything goes well. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif It works pretty well on GM, Ford, and Toyota. I've heard some real horror stories about some of the J boxes and some Mfr lines...... If you want more info, go on IATN Tool and Equipment Forum or Technical Discussion Forum and search "J2534". Pack a lunch! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

That stuff reminds me of the solution used in Motorvac injector cleaning machines. The gummint originally devised this solution- it had to melt carbon quickly, be water based and non flammable. It was originally made for cleaning the carbon out of gun barrels in giant 12"-18" guns on ships, as they had to have something non flammable to work in an environment that has pallets of gunpowder hanging around. It turned out to work excellent as an injector solvent, also. I used Ford's injector solvent in my Motorvac unit and it worked great. I don't have the PN handy but it was about $5 a pint by the case. Perhaps this would work well for cleaning corked manifolds, too. Any takers? Keith, I'll pay the cost of a few bottles of injector solvent if you have a plugged manifold..... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I did some classes at Franklin Power Products, the engine reman Level 1 supplier to both Ford and Navistar. In the 6.0 teardown dept, I saw a large pile of EGR coolers. MOST of them were blocked over halfway with carbon at the inlet. I'm betting this is a bigger problem than we think it is. I wonder about alternative methods of carbon cleaning the manifold- removing it, corking the inlet, inverting it, and filling it with carb cleaner overnight- probably 2-3 quarts of X66Q? I called my local machine shop and he did not have any way of cleaning it, nor did he know of anything local. He claims the EPA clamped down on acid baths and most shops eliminated them. How much is a new manifold? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/coffee.gif

Actually, I thought it was Saskachestan. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif I've done a few gigs around Toronto, and have Calgary on the schedule for next May. I'm taking that one and looking forward to it. I send Anthony on most of the road trips, especially to the run-of-the-mill (crappy) destinations, but keep a few of the good ones for myself. I hope my wife goes with me and would like to tie in Calgary with Banff, Lake Louise, and the Rockies. I haven't been there before and hear it's beautiful. Still 300 miles from Slave Lake- but 300 miles is probably as close as I wanna get...... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

Success! I wrote the authorities a long letter explaining the details, enclosed copies of e-mails between me and CityPA, and sent him on his way. No problemo at the border, took his money for a work permit and sent him on his way. Anthony called a bit ago to let me know he was through the border and all was fine. Yahoo! Time for a drink! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif

[quote name=Fredsvt Another question' date=' since I'm asking. I got leery of Ford's "new" gray silicone for the oil pans, as it doesn't seem to be the same as the Int'l T442. When did it change? We call and get tubes from International. This is one job I care not to do twice.[/quote] I have a horror story about that Ford silicone in the short caulking gun tube. We used it to put a pan on a PSD, and it never set up, causing a leak. Upon further inspection, I had bought 3 tubes- the one we used did not have an expiration date sticker on it, but the other two did, and they were way past date. I surmised that someone saw the past date and removed the sticker to make it saleable. We were the poor turkeys that used it. I did get the Ford dealer to reimburse me for labor on that R&R, but it took nearly a year and making my account go nice and high without payment to do it. I don't know when it changed, but I do like the IH gray stuff... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

176 is fast? 6.0's crank at 215 warm and 175 cool/cold. Look at the average RPM on the bottom of the compression graph. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

Hey Fred, wandered in from the HDF, eh? That job would be worth at least 18 hours at my shop. Later! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Some people have waaaay too much free time on their hands...... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

No codes? You ran the KOEO and Buzz Test, right? Smoke from the tailpipe when cranking? ICPV about 1.5V cranking? (don't rely on ICP, as it is an inferred PID) I'd double check glow plug amperage just to be sure (roughly 180 KOEO, tapering to 120 after 15 seconds) If it's above 125 it's probably not your problem, and 99% of the time a 6.0 will set GP codes anyway if there's a failure. If all else pans out, fill the secondary FF with Stanadyne or PM17A fuel additive and see if it runs. Trucks like this commonly end up being bad injectors that won't atomize fuel properly, hence no combustion. (if it's not dusted /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif ) Let us know what you find. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

By chance, do you know if it's a shaker/blower type cleaner for cleaning ash, or the full blown oven style cleaner for cleaning coke? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Ditto. One of my ambulance fleets has in-cab cameras recording a wide angle view 24/7 to act as a witness in the event of an accident, and to identify bad drivers and driving habits. They fire drivers that are habitual offenders. One recent situation was a female driver who repeatedly bent and blew out RR tires/wheels from clipping curbs. They released her. I'd add to use an IR gun and compare front and rear brake temps with a similar vehicle after a normal road test to make sure the rear brakes are functioning properly. I love IR guns for this..... Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Hey Guys: I need an opinion. I doubt anyone has firsthand experience in this problem, but I really don't know many other sources to talk to Canadians. Here's the situation: I've booked a class for Anthony next week for the City of Prince Albert, SK. I've taught in CA several times but always did it on the sly- told the border guys I was vacationing, etc. This time I thought I'd play it "by the books" and tell the border guys the truth. I started the process by filling out an online form requesting a Work Permit, which requires me to pay $150 (certified check only, no cash or CC) and the customer (City of PA) to do some paperwork on their end and get an "LMO". They started the process a month ago, which I figured was (hopefully) enough time to get the paperwork in order. Well, you can guess what happened, the LMO was supposed to show up today (Whew!) but instead they were informed that there is a backlog and the LMO won't show up for 6-8 more weeks. Well, I'm the kind of guy who likes to take calculated risks, so several weeks ago I bought a non-refundable ticket for Anthony 'cause a refundable one is a grand more. So now I'm in a pickle: If I send him, there is a chance he'll be turned away by the border dudes at Saskatoon, where he's flying in to. I do know of a similar situation where a trainer was busted at the Canadian border for lying, where he told the border guys he was vacationing but was busted because he shipped gear up ahead of time and they were able to cross-reference the shipment to him and catch his lie. They scared him, but in the end he paid the $150 WP fee and was on his way. Like I said, I'm a calculated risk taker. I'm thinking of sending him there with the paperwork we have, tell the truth, have the $150 certified check, and hope for the best. Worst case, he's turned away, I lose a RT airfare ($500) and rebook the class another time. Comments? Opinions? Criticism? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Frozen? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I'd be more likely to think it was a cooling system that was not properly bled. Put a 'stat in it and use a vacuum bleeder on the system to remove all trapped air. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

ASE is bringing out a new test- the A9 Light Duty Diesel test, in the spring, I just finished a workshop writing the questions for it. Before you get excited, I'll tell you it will not be an easy test. The problem once again is that it covers all diesels under 14,000GVW, which means it has questions on Powerstroke, Cummins, Duramax, 6.5 GM, Isuzu, VW, Mercedes Benz, and BMW. If ASE were to come out with an Advanced Light Duty Diesel Certification, it would require the techs to be a master at all of the systems I listed, plus be able to diagnose the "camel" or composite vehicles used in the L1 and L2 tests. This would also be a very difficult test to pass. This has been a common problem for dealer technicians for years- how can they become proficient on vehicles and systems that they do not work on? The only way to do this is study. I'd suggest joining IATN and hanging out in the HD/Fleet forum and read all of the posts every night. It's free if you just want to read the posts and be able to respond. http://www.iatn.net/ http://members.iatn.net/forums/read/?c=1&f=forum18 It's one of the few places where you can get regular exposure to ALL LD/MD/HD diesel systems in a relatively professional forum. I know there are guys there who don't know what they are doing, like any internet forum. But there are also some of the smartest diesel technicians in the country hanging out there that help people daily. You'll figure out who the smart ones are pretty quickly. If you become a Sponsor ($10/month) you can do searches on any topic and have enough reading material to last the rest of the century. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I think you're going to have a tough time finding a better T2 study guide than Motor Age. The problem is just what you state- you don't work on MD/HD trucks, and that's what the T2 is aimed at. You need to know and understand everything from Cummins PT all the way through late common rail systems. The test is specifically aimed at MD/HD and not light diesel. L2 will be even harder with a lot of troubleshooting and schematic questions. Contact your local community college and speak with their head diesel instructor. See if they offer any ASE refresher classes that might be of value to you. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Partsvoice shows the same thing. Larry, did you ever check that other PN for shits and grins? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif