Bruce Amacker

I think you're getting IDI and PSD confused. It is common to replace the early (1984-1987) 6.9/7.3 IDI glow plug system with the late IDI solid state system used from 87ish to '94 which is much more reliable. This would involve replacing a round relay with the solid state style and I've done a bunch of them in years past. There would be no reason to do this on a PSD that I can think of. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Yes, there could be a correlation between the wrong coolant and the failure. When I had the shop, I followed mfr's recommendations religiously to avoid liability problems in the event of a failure. Imagine this scenario: You work on a vehicle and install an inappropriate coolant. Several months later, the vehicle loses a head gasket and the cust takes it to another shop. The second shop sees the wrong coolant color and states this could have contributed to the head gasket failure. The cust confronts you about it and threatens to sue. If it goes to court, you don't have a leg to stand on. Not only are you going to buy head gaskets, you're going to buy a motor if it needs it. Not my idea of a good day. PS I've attended several coolant classes and have learned a lot from the nations top instructors such as Kevin McCartney and Randy Dillman. Both of them stress using DISTILLED WATER and not tap water to dilute coolant. When I had the shop I bought drums of pre-mixed, because it was mixed with distilled, and gallons of 100% for strengthening a weak solution. Dillman tested tap water in northern Indiana from dozens of public water supplies and found huge differences in PH level between them, including the same supply on different days or weeks. Because half of what you put in the cooling system is the inconsistent water, its chemical and mineral content, and PH level are very important in determining the final mix you end up with. Here's a link to Dillman's coolant class, it is on the right side of the page about halfway down. http://www.lindertech.com/conf~08.htm PPS What I have learned and follow is several things: use a refractometer to determine coolant strength, and use an electric PH meter on the coolant. Here's mine, a Milwaukee SM802, $140: Is there a 12 step program for tool junkies? Hello, my name is Bruce and I am an addict...... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

The 7.3 (and DT) injector sleeves changed from brass to stainless steel around the 2000 model year to accommodate the newer coolants (both in Fords and IH). The reason I say "about" is that I've seen stainless in virgin '99s and brass in 2001s. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/coffee.gif

I can't comment on an IDI but IH warned not to put ELC coolants in earlier (pre-2000) HEUI engines with brass injector sleeves. Supposedly the ELC coolant would eat through the brass sleeve and I have had students verify that it did actually happen. Somewhere in my IH info there's a picture of a Swiss-cheese style brass injector sleeve that came from an (improperly filled) ELC system. My personal opinion is to run the factory spec fluids in all applications. There are just too many alloys, coolants, and compatibility problems to know positively that a particular combo is OK. PS You should be "checking and correcting" the PH level on a standard ethylene glycol system, not just blindly putting in an additive without knowing how much PH adjustment is needed. Overcharge is just as dangerous as undercharge. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

Keith just linked this PDF in another post, but here it is in text format. The funny symbols are just bullet points: CRANK NO START with NO SYNC or NO FICMSYNC PIDs on 6.0L Diesel Some 03-07 6.0L-equipped vehicles may experience a crank no start, a runs rough concern or stalling with cam or crank sensor codes. Viewing the SYNC and FICMSYNC PIDs in Datalogger will help diagnose this issue. The SYNC PID will show Yes when the CKP and CMP signals are synchronized to the PCM. The FICMSYNC PID will show Yes when the CKPO and CMPO signals are synchronized to the FICM. Symptoms from a loss of SYNC or FICMSYNC or erratic SYNC or FICMSYNC can include: • Crank no start with SYNC No and FICMSYNC No. • Crank no start with SYNC Yes and FICMSYNC No. • Crank no start with SYNC No and FICMSYNC Yes. • Crank no start with erratic SYNC or FICM SYNC switching from No to Yes. • Vehicle stalling, running rough or missing with SYNC or FICM SYNC switching from Yes to No. For any of these issues, follow the diagnostics listed below. The PCM needs both cam and crank signals to produce a SYNC=Yes. If SYNC=No with a P2614 or P2617, there is most likely a fault with the associated sensor or circuit. Note: If there are any CAM or Crank codes stored in PCM, run the PPT for those codes before continuing with this procedure. A bad sensor or circuit should be able to be isolated with the appropriate PPT. Possible Causes: • Bad cam sensor • Bad crank sensor • Signal short to power • Signal short to ground • Open circuit • PCM • FICM • Cam (CMP) Gear or Pin • Crankshaft (CKP) Tone Wheel Note: The RPM PID can be a good quick indicator or CKP wheel wobble or slop. The RPM PID can read erratically when there is wobble or slop. The scope will also show this issue with variations in CKP signal amplitude. This signal should be fairly consistent at a steady RPM with the exception of the missing tooth. The IDS oscilloscope is the most accurate device available to check for this type of concern. If there is no oscilloscope available, you can use a DVOM with HZ and Vac settings but it is not as accurate and an oscilloscope is highly recommended. The oscilloscope diagnostics and setup are below. Oscilloscope Diagnostic Procedure for CKP and CMP This will check both the crank (CKP) and cam (CMP) signals into the PCM. Note: The easiest way but not the only way to access the PCM signals is to use a 104 Pin Break-Out-Box (BOB) and an adapter T sold by Rotunda (1-800-ROTUNDA) attached to the middle (46-Pin) connector on the PCM. This allows for easy access to all signals. Oscilloscope Channel Setup: • Select Oscilloscope Tools and then Oscilloscope from the IDS toolbox. • Connect the VMM to the vehicle and the computer to the VMM as shown in the hookup. • Connect the red probe to C1 on the VMM and then into pin 30, and the black probe to C2 on the VMM and then into pin 31 of the middle PCM connector (1381c), (176c for E-Series). Go to the next step if using a BOB. (You can leave the connector unplugged from the PCM and just probe into the connector. The engine will still crank). Use the IDS probe kit for cranking signals or the IDS Universal probe (T-015) can be used for running engine signals leaving c1381c or 176c connected. • Select channel one Auto, then CKP-6.OL Diesel and go the next step (If auto is not available select Manual, Red Probe, 5volts/div, or 20 ms/div if the engine will start). • Select channel two Auto, then CMP-6.OL diesel and go to next step (If auto is not available select Manual, Black Probe, 500mvolts/div and 100ms/div time-base settings). If the engine will start, change only the time-base to 100ms/dv. Move the channel two trigger approximately half a division vertically up and about three divisions right horizontally. • Turn the key to on with the engine off and then select Trigger, Type, one Shot and then select the Red Man to turn the scope on. The Red Man will turn to a Green Running Man with the test “Waiting for trigger” in the status area below the signal display. If One Shot is already running when you key up, One Shot will have to be restarted because an unwanted waveform will be captured from the key state change. • Open the oscilloscope screen to full and crank or start the engine • One Shot will capture the waveforms automatically. (Turn One Shot off to view the signals live). • The yellow signal is the CKP and the green signal is the CMP. If CKP and CMP look similar to what is shown below then continue with the rest of diagnosis otherwise stop here and fix the problem signal. • If the scope does not trigger, reset the trigger points on the second channel and verify that the connections at the PCM connector are solid. If it still won’t trigger, then there is no signal getting to the scope. Oscilloscope Diagnostic Procedure for CKPO and CMPO Oscilloscope Channel Setup: • Select Oscilloscope Tools and then Oscilloscope from the IDS toolbox. • Connect the VMM to the vehicle and the computer to the VMM as shown in the hookup. • Connect the red probe to the C1 on the VMM and then into pin 19, and the black probe to C2 on the VMM and then into pin 20 of the middle PCM connector (1381c), (175c for E-Series). (You can leave the connector unplugged from the PCM and just probe into the connector. The engine will still crank). Use the IDS probe kit for cranking signals or the IDS Universal probes (T-015) can be used for running engine signals leaving c1381c connected. • Select channel one Auto, then CKPO-Diesel 6.0L (or Manual, Red Probe, 5 volts/div, 20ms/div for an engine that will start. • Select channel two Auto, then CMPO-Diesel 6.0L (or Manual, Black Probe, 5 volts/div, 20ms/div for an engine that will start) or 100ms/div for an engine that will only crank. • Turn the key to on with the engine off and select Trigger, Type, One Shot and then select the Red Man to turn the scope on. The Red Man will turn to a Green Running Man with the text “Waiting for trigger” in the status area below the signal display. If One Shot is already running when you key up, One Shot will have to be restarted because an unwanted waveform will be captured from the key state change. • Open the oscilloscope screen to full and crank or start the engine. • One shot will capture the waveforms automatically. (Turn One Shot off to view the signals live). • The red signal is the CKPO and the blue signal is the CMPO. (The signal colors will be orange and red when using channels one and two) Note: Focus on the relationship between CKPO and CMPO. Both CKPO and CMPO signals could be present and valid, but the FICMSYNC could still read NO. If the signals are out of time with each other, check to see if the crankshaft tone ring has slipped on the crank and also to see if the camshaft pin or gear has loosened on the camshaft. Those are the most likely causes for the FICMSYNC signal to be out of time. See screen shot below for proper relationship. Note: All four signals can be viewed at the same time using all four ports on the VMM but to simplify the explanation of the hookup instructions, ports 1 and 2 (red and black probe) are discussed in this write-up. If using all four channels, you would need to use the ignition probes for the VMM and set the channel to A, B, C, or D depending on which probe you use. DVOM Diagnostic Procedure (Only if an oscilloscope is not available) Note: Only use this procedure if an oscilloscope is not available. The data can be a lot harder to interpret using a DVOM. Cranks NO Start: SYNC=No and/or FICM SYC=No NOTE: Before starting the following diagnostics, remove the driver side battery and cover up the positive battery cable head to prevent arcing. Procedure for SYNC=NO with no, low or erratic RPM (possible p2617) • Disconnect the center connector from the PCM (1381c), (176c for E-Series) • Set the DVOM to frequency to take a HZ reading, can also set it to A/C volts. • A valid HZ reading is 150 to 190HZ and be steady. The A/C voltage should be at least .6 volts and steady as well. • If there are no, low, or erratic readings then check the CKP sensor and wiring per pinpoint test D8. If there is a valid reading then go to the next procedure below. Procedure for SYNC=NO with RPM (possible p2614) • Disconnect the center connector from the PCM (1381c), (176c for E-Series). • To check the CMP signal, hook up a DVOM to pins 31 and 43 of the 1381c or 176c connector. • Set the DVOM to frequency to take a HZ reading. You can also set it to A/C volts. • A valid HZ reading is around 1.1 to 1.6 HZ. If checking A/C volts, the voltage will fluctuate and it should go over 1 volt as it fluctuates. • If there is no or a low reading, check the CMP sensor and wiring per pinpoint test V4. If the sensor and circuit check out, remove the sensor and inspect the end for signs of the cam pin striking it. If it is damaged then the cam pin has backed out and struck the sensor and the camshaft needs to be replaced. • If the cam and crank sensors and circuits all check out or have been replaced and still SYNC=No, replace the PCM and retest. NOTE: The readings on the DVOM from the CMP will fluctuate a lot, because there is only one timing peg that comes around for every two engine revolutions. Procedure for SYNC = YES and FICM SYNC = NO Note: If SNYC=YES, it only means that there is good cam and crank signals to the PCM. If there is a wire issue between the PCM and FICM or if the signals are out of time, the FICM SYNC will be NO or may intermittently jump from YES to NO. • The center connector of the PCM will have to be connected. • While cranking the engine over, make sure that the FICM V and FICM L powers are above 10.5 volts and the FICM M power is around 48 volts at all times. • The pins 19 and 20 of the center PCM connector 1381c or 176c will have to be back probed. • Pin 19 is the CKPO circuit. To check it, set the DVOM to HZ and connect it from the pin 19 to ground. The HZ signal should match the CKP reading of around 150-190 HZ. • Pin 20 is the CMPO circuit. To check it, set the DVOM to HZ and connect it from the pin 20 to ground. The HZ signal should match the CMP reading of around 1.1 to 1.6. • If there are incorrect readings at either pin, run through the SYNC tests above for the appropriate output sensor (CKP or CMP) before replacing the PCM. • If there are correct readings at both pins at the PCM connector, pins 5 and 10 of the FICM connector 1388c will have to be back probed. • Pin 5 is the CKPO circuit (150-190 HZ) and pin 10 is the CMPO circuit (1.1-1.6HZ). Repeat the steps listed above. All readings should be the same at the PCM and the FICM connectors. • If there are no or low readings at the FICM connector, there is a wire problem between the PCM and the FICM. If there is a valid HZ reading at both CMPO and CKPO pins into the FICM, check all powers/grounds at the FICM and if good, try a known good FICM and retest. NOTE: Mechanical timing issues can only be diagnosed after all of the above diagnostics have been performed. If all of the above diagnostics have been performed and there is still a FICM SYNC issue, then there is a mechanical timing concern. The two parts of the engine that can cause timing issues are the crankshaft tone wheel and/or the crank gear. • If the vehicle is a crank no start and has timing concerns with the tone wheel, then usually the scan tool will not complete a relative compression test with a SYNC error. • If the vehicle starts and runs rough the FICM SYNC concerns go to the power balance function and click on the enhanced button (has a # symbol on it). If the engine smoothes out, there is a tone wheel concern. • If the vehicle will start only off of an alternative fuel source (silicone spray) and then runs fine, there is likely a cam gear concern. NOTE: The tone wheel is located in the crankcase and is pressed onto the crankshaft. Therefore, to inspect it for looseness or damage, the oil pan will need to be removed. If the tone wheel is damaged or loose, the crankshaft needs to be replaced. • Before starting the following diagnostics, remove the driver side battery and cover up the positive battery cable lead to prevent arcing. Procedure for SYNC = no WITH NO rpm (possible p2617) • Disconnect the center connector from the PCM (1381c), (186c for E-series). • To check the CKP signal, hook up a DVOM to pins 30 (CKP+) and 41 (CKP-) of the 1381c or 176c connector. • Set the DVOM to frequency to take a HZ reading or set the DVOM to Vac and look at AC volts. • A valid HZ reading will be around 600 HZ and will fluctuate higher and lower. The AC voltage should be around 3 volts and will also fluctuate. • If there are no readings then check the CKP sensor and wiring per pinpoint test D8. If there is a valid reading then go the next procedure below. • Reference the 6.01 oscilloscope setup document. Procedure for SYNC = NO with RPM (possible p2614) • Disconnect the center connector from the PCM (1381c), (176c for E-Series). • To check the CMO signal, hook up a DVOM to pins 31 and 43 of the 1381c or 176c connector. • Set the DVOM to frequency to take a HZ reading, can also set it to A/C volts. • A valid HZ reading is around 1.1 to 1.6 HZ. The A/C voltage will fluctuate and it should go over 1 volt as it fluctuates. • If there is no reading, then check the CMP sensor and wiring per pinpoint test V4. If the sensor and circuit check out, remove the sensor and inspect the end for signs of the cam pin striking it. If it has, then the cam pin has backed out and the camshaft needs to be replaced. • If the cam and crank sensors and circuits all check out and still no sync, replace the PCM and retest. • The signal is best checked with the oscilloscope. Reference the 6.01 o-scope setup document. Note: The readings on the DVOM from the CMP will fluctuate a lot, because there is only one timing peg that comes around for every two engine revolutions. Procedure for SYNC = YES and FICMSYNCE = NO Note: If SNYC=YES, it only means that there is a good cam and crank signal to the PCM. If there is a wire issue between the PCM and FICM or if the signals are out of time, the FICM SYNC will be NO or may intermittently jump fro YES to NO. • The center connector of the PCM will have to be connected. • While cranking, make sure that the FICM_V and FICM_L powers are above 10.5 volts and the FICM_M power is around 48 volts at all times. • The pins 19 and 20 of the center PCM connector 1381c or 176c will have to be back probed. • Pin 19 is the CKPO circuit. To check it, set the DVOM to HZ and connect it from the pin 19 to ground. The HZ signal should match the CKP reading of around 150-190 HZ. • Pin 20 is the CMPO circuit. To check it, set the DVOM to HZ and connect it from the pin 20 to ground. The HZ signal should match the CMP reading of around 1.1 to 1.6. • If there are incorrect readings at either pin, run through the SYNC tests above for the appropriate output sensor (CKP or CMO) before replacing the PCM. • If there are correct readings at both pins at the PCM connector, pins 5 and 10 of the FICM connector 1388c will have to be back probed. • Pin 5 is the CKPO circuit and pin 10 in CMPO circuit. Repeat the steps listed above. All readings should be the same at the PCM and the FICM connectors. • If there are not readings at the FICM connector, there is a wire problem. If there is a valid HZ reading at both CMPO and CKPO pins into the FICM, replace the FICM. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

You aren't aware of PartsVoice? It's free. These dealers show it in stock: 1 F5TZ12A650BJF MODULE - ENGINE CONTROL - EEC Part Qty | Price† Dealer and Link to website. Phone Updated 1 1 | $ RIVERSIDE FORD MACON, GA 31297 001 (478) 742-5771 Nov 10, 2008 2 | $ LONG/LEWIS FORD HOOVER, AL 35244 001 (205) 989-3673 Nov 10, 2008 1 | $ DOBBS FORD INC MEMPHIS, TN 38115 001 (901) 362-6364 Nov 10, 2008 1 | $ BOYER TRUCK PARTS MINNEAPOLIS, MN 55413 001 (612) 378-0460 Nov 10, 2008 1 | $ LUBBER BROS FORD CHENEY, KS 67025 001 (316) 540-3103 Nov 10, 2008 1 | $ JOE COOPER FORD OKLAHOMA, OK 73107 001 (405) 232-3551 Nov 10, 2008 1 | $ TYLER FORD TYLER, TX 75701 001 (903) 525-0330 Nov 10, 2008 1 | $ MIAMI l/m -Miami FO (D2D) Miami, FL 33150 001 (954) 335-2160 Nov 03, 2008 1 | $ Tommie Vaughn Motors, Inc. HOUSTON, TX 77008 001 (713) 802-6667 Nov 10, 2008 2 | $ RUSSELL & SMITH FORD HOUSTON, TX 77054 001 (713) 663-4111 Nov 09, 2008 1 | $ O'MEARA FORD CENTER INC NORTHGLENN, CO 80234 001 (303) 254-5000 Nov 10, 2008 1 | $ Larry H. Miller Super Ford - Downtown Salt Lake City, UT 84115 001 (801) 908-2708 Nov 10, 2008 1 | $ BLUE LAKES FORD TWIN FALLS, ID 83301 001 (208) 736-2480 Nov 09, 2008 2 | $ SANDERSON FORD GLENDALE, AZ 85301 001 (623) 842-8762 Nov 10, 2008 ST 1 | $ DREW FORD LA MESA, CA 91941 001 (619) 464-7777 Feb 15, 2008 1 | $ WILL TIESIERA FORD TULARE, CA 93274 001 (559) 688-7471 Nov 10, 2008 /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Don't forget this is a two way street, I learn as much as I contribute here. That's the whole point of this forum, right? I have said many times before: The best thing that has happened to our industry in the last 25 years is the Internet. It allows information access from a variety of sources that makes us much stronger as a whole. Thanks again to Keith for making this network possible. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Here's all of the Sync stuff I have in my notes: Using a scan tool, verify the SYNC PID says YES when the engine is running. SYNC is mostly from the CKP sensor. It is possible to have NO CMP signal and still show YES for SYNC. No SYNC and no RPM signal is usually a CKP problem. No SYNC with an RPM signal may be the CMP. Replace both cam and crank sensors the first time, then the harness. This is the best way to get an intermittent one diagnosed. Excessive rust under the CMP flange cause a hard start cold. Cleaning rust from the block and replacing the CMP a second time was the fix. On DTS there were 2 that gave CMP/CKP sync error codes. One was a wiped crank thrust bearing that let the crank walk forward and back causing the codes. Another was a loose crank trigger wheel on the front of the crank- tough diag! Check the RPM PID while running and see if it looks erratic, and check end play in the crank. DTS: Sync codes with a fresh short block The tech working on truck removed the ckp sensor, and looked into the hole while turning motor over to find a bent tooth. He raised engine and dropped the oil pan down and tried to straighten the tooth (the motor had shifted in the crate while being shipped). He drove it again to find the problem was no better. A call to the hotline finds that the slightest nick in the trigger wheel can cause issues. The only way to get the trigger wheel is to buy a crank! Ford hotline said replacing the crank could cause bedplate issues, which is why the truck is in the shop in the first place. So hotline said put another short block in it. Diagnosing FICM SYNC: Diagnose SYNC problems first FICM SYNC should read YES KOER. The FICM SYNC circuit relays info from the PCM to the FICM through 2 wiring circuits, CKPO and CMPO. FICM SYNC problems can be a bad CKP, CMP (electrical or mechanical), PCM, FICM, or harness. 2005 6.0 Would Not Idle… The EGR valve was stuck open with no EGR DTC! What was odd was that the SYNC dropped out just before it stalled. Change SYNC and FICM sync into a bar graph and check it for being erratic. Do you have the SYNC PDF worksheet? I think it's on DTS here somewhere..... Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Yea, uh huh. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

That guy's going to learn some expensive lessons. Homemade bio and electronic diesels mix like oil and water.... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

PS: If the guy goes for the repairs, sell him a fuel pressure regulator cleaning. The FPR has a tendency on these early engines to accumulate a lot of crud and debris, and that's on a non-B50 truck. Common things found in an early FPR are rubber chunkies from injector o-ring deterioration and metal shavings from a deteriorating fuel pump. Paper fiber buildup from aftermarket fuel filters is common in the screen on the side of the filter housing. General crap also builds up for no reason. This is easy and quick and can commonly be done without buying an o-ring kit. The PN for the kit is F6TZ-9150-BA, but beware of the price- last checked was about $50. (Larry: This PN was one of the most difficult I ever found, because FMC calls the IPR a "Fuel Pressure Regulator". It took me months of wrong parts to get this kit!) Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/coffee.gif This FPR is a perfect example of Ford's over-engineering something and having it come back to bite you. In the Gen 2 7.3 FMC went with a design similar to IH's with no more problems. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Lots of questions here- Did you check glow plug amperage? Have you tried subbing another fuel in the filter housing, or filling the filter housing with Stanadyne or PM-17A? Have you taken a fuel sample from the filter drain into a glass jar? What does it look and smell like? Are the injectors being energized while cranking? Back to basics- Glow plug amperage over 150 amps (195 is correct) at initial key-on, ICP voltage about 1.5vdc cranking, cranking RPM above 150. Substitute another fuel in the filter housing, and may be even pull the flex return lines from the pressure regulator and let them bleed into a can while cranking to get the fresh fuel into the head galleys. Is this "B50" homemade? If so, the injectors are probably trashed. Homemade Bio can be run (yech!) in a PLN mechanical diesel, but electronic diesels are not as forgiving. His other trucks may be PLN systems.... Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Ditto on the ICP and pigtail. The cat may be at fault, also, as it's job is to burn particulates. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I wonder if he wears shades while in the shop? The glare is killing me.... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif

I'd agree that MGP is on the low side. I'd suspect a biased sensor, which is one that's reporting the wrong pressure to the PCM. This is also called an in-range fault. The easiest way to diag this is to unplug the sensor or replace the sensor with a known good one and RT it. The most likely sensors to go biased are the ICP and MAP. Try subbing them. No exhaust leaks, right? Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

There's tons of DPF delete systems listed on FleaBay...... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/coffee.gif

You went on a diet? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

I wouldn't worry about it either, BUT, if it was mine or a close friend's I'd graph ICP and Syncs, and see why it doesn't fire right away. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

There's been some thermostat problems, but your problem sounds like low coolant or an air pocket in the system. Has it been apart recently? These trucks will not bleed themselves out driving like most vehicles do. I'd probably try an AirLift cooling system bleed before getting deeper. What's the history on this truck? Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I agree the ICP is a bit low, but if it was too low, the injector "noid" light wouldn't flash. This 6.0 PSD scope wave shows the injectors being enabled at 1.1v, which is about 700psi. Note it was cranking for about .5 second when the injectors were enabled. I have another graph showing the injectors enabled at 300psi when a DTC is set. (with a DTC, the PCM is no longer looking at ICP to enable the injectors) /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Cranking RPM is pretty low- a warm 6.0 cranks at 215, my minimum standard is 175. Once it's running, is IPR traveling down towards the mid 20's? I'm a little concerned that your ICP is only 1.0v as they'll usually build 1.5v cranking, but that might be the low cranking RPM. Can you do KOER and injector buzz too? When pulling codes, it's important to do ALL 4 DTC STEPS, which is one of the most overlooked items in the diag sheet. (KOEO OD test, Continuous codes, KOER, buzz. You ain't doing 4 things, you aint gettin' all of the codes.) If you have a noid light active, and no smoke from the tailpipe, your injectors are likely toast from bad fuel and sticking plungers in the barrels. You might be able to verify this by filling the secondary FF with Stanadyne or PM-17A and see if it acts better. 90% of the time, this will change the symptom or make it disappear altogether. Double check your fuel quality at the secondary FF by removing and inspecting the FF and fuel quite closely. Clear DTC's and see if the 2617 returns, it might be a ghost code caused by low cranking RPM. I'd hang a couple of batteries in it and get the RPM up, too. Any history on LOF? REALLY bad oil might cause this. My gut is bad injectors. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/coffee.gif

I, also, do not know much about this engine but I'm willing to make a suggestion. Examine how this engine runs with the oil fill cap on and off compared with another similar engine. The crankcase vent system enters into the PCV equation in a way I cannot explain, but I know if there is a major leak such a a valve cover gasket or similar oil-type leak it will upset the idle controls on many engines. On many engines if you take the oil fill cap off while the engine is idling the idle speed will freak out due to the added air to the system. If your engine depends on a sealed crankcase that runs in a slight vacuum, and you have a (gasket, etc) leak, it will upset the idle controls. [if the quality of the fuel is so poor that it requires a spark to ignite it..... Well, there's not much more than I can say...!] /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I feel the substrate material the DPF is made of may not be up to the rigors of typical truck use. The cutaway DPF I made has a custom foam-lined case and has foam between the two halves of the cutaway as well. It has traveled back and forth across the country several times for classes and the DPF material has broken apart into several pieces already from the typical bumps of shipping. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif It's a learning curve the mfr's will need to adapt to. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/coffee.gif

Is that under load? (40-50MPH, WOT) Checking it in the shop is a waste of time. Also, check fuel quality by taking a sample in a glass jar. KOEO and KOER DTC's? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif