Bruce Amacker

Good call. The hard drive grenaded today on my main PC, and Anthony's teaching a new air brake class in a couple of weeks that's not done yet. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif

Congratulations! I've always been a truck guy and would hate working at a car shop. I think you're making a wise move for several reasons. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Inferred EBP is only used on trucks that were affected by the 06E17 recall, which were F-models built before Sep 29, 2003. This includes early 2004 models and excludes E-vans. Remember there are early trucks out there that have not had the flash put in them. I recommend a heart-to-heart talk with the customer before doing this flash. Sometimes they run better, sometimes they run worse, sometimes you put DTC's in that must immediately be fixed. The last one I just did ran the same but lost several MPG in economy. I did have a big talk with the driver before doing the flash and explained to him the possibilities. It is a DOT truck so he wasn't concerned with economy, luckily. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

We don't need a second redundant fuel pump, we need a quality first pump that's not designed (or approved) by the bean counters. Fuel pumps have been a pattern failure across the board on all American cars, and one of the biggest thorns in my ass. Have you ever seen, or picked up, a BMW fuel pump? Roller bearings, 5 lbs in weight, $700 price tag, but you get what you pay for and they rarely fail. How many OE pumps have you cut open to find the root cause of failure? I've cut open dozens: Big 3 pumps- crimped housings made from the same material as toothpaste tubes, no bearings- the shaft rides in a plastic bushing, rollers, housings, brushes and commutators made of crap. They are designed to last 3/36 and that's it, a disgrace to the American engineering talent. I have heard the production costs on these pumps is less than a dollar. In 25 years of running an independent shop, I replaced THREE Jap fuel pumps. We replaced so many GM and Ford pumps that we stocked them (OE box from the dealer, not parts store crap that's even worse). And why has the consumer flocked to import vehicles? It's a fucking disgrace. US management has screwed things up so badly it will take decades to straighten it out (if it can be done). Why are there almost no diesel cars in the US? Because people STILL remember the GM 5.7 POS from the 70's. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif

IH TSI 97-12-09 says it's OK to run JP8 jet fuel in older HEUI engines, specifically the split shot injectors used in the T444E and DT466E. I know several fleets running it in later engines without problems. I'd caution the cust that this is a gray area and he should be running a lubricity additive, but I recommend a lubricity additive regardless of fuel supply. Like we've never seen a lubricity problem in diesel fuel before? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Damn you Jim, there you go again using common sense. Don't you know that's not allowed? I agree totally, but if that higher displacement pump cost $.01 more than the pump being used, the bean counters would can it. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

PS: Yes, I would. Good Luck!

Use a flashlight and a mirror and inspect the V-clamp at the rear of the EGR cooler. See if there is a drop of coolant hanging off of the bottom of it. If there is, replace the cooler. Install a 30psi pressure gauge into a Tee fitting into the coolant degas bottle hose (3/8", I think). Drive the truck and watch the coolant pressure, it should rise gradually while driving aggressively. If the coolant pressure jumps when you go WOT, it usually means the head gaskets are leaking. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Ditto, ditto, ditto. We did a PPI on a Blazer one time and the oil sample came back with high silicon. It had a cracked intake bellows...... BIG believer here. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I have had excellent luck with Luk products and installed more units than I can count. Being local to one of their main engineering facilities proved great, and we were able to install "test" units that were not available to the public. We even participated as a Beta installer for their solid flywheels many years ago, long before they were available to the public. When you call their tech support number, it goes to a location 2 miles down from my old shop and the guys there knew/know more about clutches than perhaps anybody on this planet. Call their tech support number at http://www.lukclutch.com/support/diagnostics.phtml This web site is designed as a resource for the technicians who specify and install LuK products throughout the United States and Canada. Technical product support is available from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. EST by calling 1-800-274-5001. BTW, get a copy of their clutch catalog mailed to you. There's more tech tips in there than you'd ever believe on weird stuff like bleeding hydraulics and diagnostics. Good Luck!

Napa PN 4077 should be several bucks less than $20, usually $12-14 +$1.40 to mail it. I'll reimburse you for the cost if you send it in. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I just got back from visiting my brother in Ft. Wayne, where IH has its engineering and technical support departments. My brother told me it was in the paper lately that IH was adding 200 jobs in their engineering dept, I confirmed this with a visit to their local newspaper's website. These will be new hires according to the story. Soooo, in this economy with truck sales in the toilet, why is IH adding 200 engineering jobs? That's at least $15Mil by my math, not what you generally see in an economy like this. It makes me want to think that the rumored alliance with Mahindra and Mahindra to make diesel pickups at IH's Springfield plant looks more promising. My buddy Ed in the UK just wrote me that diesel fuel costs L1.30 per litre, which translates to $9.82 per US gallon. I know $5.00/gal here sounds like a lot, but I bet Ed would sure like to see it that "cheap". /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

The funniest story this reminds me of is when the president of the Cleveland School Board was arrested for mooning someone in a car on the highway and a cop caught him.. How embarassing..... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I applaud your energy but suggest you think twice about this. The 3126B is a lot of engine, probably too much for this chassis. Can it be done? Yes, but there will be enormous engineering hurdles that will need to overcome. Don't attempt this if you are on a limited budget as you will quickly find yourself at a dead end. Also remember that you will have several times invested in this truck what it is worth, so selling it will not be an option. If you go forward with this I'd suggest an Allison AT or MT series (non-electronic) as it would give you the least difficulties. I did hear of a guy who put a DT466 into a F350 but I don't remember hearing wonderful stories about its success. I do remember him saying it was too much for the frame and he was having trouble with normal engine vibrations loosening up frame rivets. I dream of repowers on almost a daily basis and would like to do my own, probably a smaller 4cyl turbo into a mid size SUV or small station wagon. My suggestion is to sell/trade this engine for a smaller diesel like a Cummins 4BT or something similar. I know you're a Cat guy and certainly there are smaller Cat engines you are familiar with that would be a better choice. There are plenty of precedents of Cummins being done which will make things easier, and a website dedicated to it. http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/index.php This swap is not for the feint of heart, short on time, or someone watching their budget. This swap is for an older guy, perhaps retired, whose kids are grown and gone, with a lot of time and money on his hands and plenty of time to play. If you are married I'd think twice also, as the "better half" may agree totally at this point but perhaps change her mind later on. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your direction. This is certainly not a waste of forum space and I'm sure many will be watching your progress closely. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

I may not be of great help on this, but here's my thoughts: I'd chase the P1000 first and fix that, it's possible you have a bad PCM and are chasing your tail because of it. It's going into regen because of the DPF pressure sensor reading. I'd graph or record the DPF pressure during this 70 mile stretch and verify it's increase. Also, the fact is is running heavy interests me. You would think running hard would keep the DPF clean, but what if the FRP sensor is biased? Could it be receiving too much fuel and causing this problem? Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Good Job! It is problems like this that give great satisfaction once they are solved. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Piece of cake- put it between a floor jack and the frame of a big truck. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

>>I finally traced the output of the turbo to the intake manifold as it crosses over the valve cover and find a frickin hole in the tube! I could stick my pocket screwdriver completely into it. SO he fires it up for me and it's puffin air right out. The dude failed to mention that "whooshing" noise when he accelerated? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif Yea, lots of diesel SUV's all over the world, except in the backward US. *sigh* I've seen them everywhere and shot lots of pics of them to take home, but rarely get to look under the hood. There's such a loyal following of Toyota diesel conversion fanatics that there is a large group that imports "half cuts" -Asian delivery diesel pickups cut through the dashboard. These provide the complete basis for converting a US spec truck/SUV to diesel using all OE parts. They've got it down to a science with complete lists of Toyota part numbers and everything can be ordered from your local US Toyota dealer. http://toyotadiesel.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=12 Yea, I'd like to have a small diesel like the one I rented last year- an Alfa Romeo GT with a 1.9 TDI and a six speed putting out 305 ft/lb at 2000rpm. A sports car with a diesel? You bet! It was probably the funnest car I ever drove and quick as hell, not to mention it got 50+mpg beating the shit out of it through the mountains of Switzerland. Dream on.......... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

I can't think of where plastic chunks would come from, unless it had an aftermarket WP on it and the plastic impeller(?) came apart. Keep in mind that any crap the owner pours into the radiator could end up here. When doing this job, bead blast the end castings and inspect the o-ring surface very closely. Lack of PH maintenance causes corrosion in the area and failure for the new o-rings to seal. We did a number of these oil-in-the-coolant complaints and my luck was not good on a couple of them. I changed my policies at the shop to reflect this and on subsequent jobs we changed the bundle and both end castings. This succeeded in preventing future comebacks. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

The pan has to come off to get at the oil pump pickup tube bolts. Pull the motor, it's torture to do this job in chassis. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

FICM failures are not unusual, but your problem could be in many areas, and not just the FICM. I can't the number of times I've been burned by "the customer says", /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif as he may be trying to get free stuff from you (nooooo, really?). I'd start with fuel pressure under load and some Stanadyne in the secondary FF to see if the misfire changes or improves. I've always stated a necessary item to have on hand is a known good FICM. If you can't figger out how to get one, they are easily available at car-part.com for $100. Good Luck! PS As time goes on, I'm betting we see more and more FICM failures. Seeing the hot environment that it lives in and the work it does, it is inevitable. I always kept a IDM on the shelf for 7.3s and found it to be an indispensable tool. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Pictures can actually be deceiving, especially when they're mine. The manifold on the left (as all of my parts used in class) is actually sandblasted and painted with clear paint to prevent it from rusting. I think that manifold was involved in a fire several years ago and was rusty from exposure before I cleaned and painted it. IIRC, it was a fire/insurance job on a "then new" '04 truck that the FD had soaked with water to put the fire out. I think the engine was filled with water and then quickly rusted. The red tint is probably leftover rust from a quickie sandblast job. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Hey Guys: Happy Fourth! I'm hoping the hangover isn't too bad and your fingers and eardrums are intact./forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif OK, back to the 6.0 injector feed puck o-rings. We covered this before and neither FMC or IH service these o-rings. They both expect you to buy a new $500 oil manifold. Left: "W" manifold. Right: DTEGR Puck I found the o-ring size buried in IH's literature. IH says the industry number is #118 with a dimension of .862" x .965" and I have been telling students this with a caveat. I have now had two of them successfully replace the o-rings and ship the truck without comeback. The next problem is this: I thought the tool for removing the hex plug was a ZTSE 4725, but it finally came off of backorder and I got it, to find it does not fit the 6.0, it fits the DT466(EGR) engine. Q1: Is there a tool to remove the goofy pucks? My students made them. Q2: Is there a torque spec for the puck? I can't find one. Comments? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Nice point, but insight and foresight cannot be taught, only learned from experience. This is what a junior technician can't do- I call it "reading between the lines". Brad made a nice point of checking VD on a circuit the PPT calls for ohming. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif