Bruce Amacker

Just make sure no one has ever used that vac to suck up brake lathe shavings. Assuming the shop vac has a filter in it, the air exiting the vac is actually filtered...... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

If it's a '99 I'm going to guess that your stalling complaint is likely not related to the P1670. Yes, you can swap IDMs without trouble. Double check your FP and quality and swap in a known good ICP. A biased ICP will cause this. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

You been drinking again? Somebody piss in your Cheerios? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

OK, just thinking out loud here. With the amount of plumbing contained in this truck I wonder if we're going to need to devise some low tech method of testing for CAC leaks. I'm thinking of disconnecting the CAC at the throttle body and corking it off. (Plan B: If there's not enough wiggle room to disconnect the cold CAC tube, buzz the bolts out of the throttle body and insert a piece of blockoff sheet metal between the throttle body and the intake manifoild? The bolts are out in the open.) Disconnect the air cleaner hose from the LP turbo and put a cork and air fitting in there, and pressurize the whole system to 30-40PSI. Would this work? Comments? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Have you checked fuel pressure and sampled it to verify good clean fuel? I agree with Keith on all counts, but have seen the P1670 be a ghost code also, so keep in mind that your problem may lie in the PCM/IDM communications, but may also be elsewhere. I'd go for a road test with a fuel pressure gauge and monitor/graph ICP voltage to satisfy myself. Scoping circuit 818 on a RT is probably a good idea, too. Don't overlook the basics! Also, I'd backprobe the IDM power and ground circuits and verify you're getting good power and ground to the unit. The IDM power relay is definitely a pattern failure item and could set this code if it had high resistance. Is it a '99 model year? There's an updated IDM to get rid of this code. Here's some copies from my book on this topic, and some known good waveforms from a '99 if you're a scope dude: The PCM generates two signals for the IDM from the cam sensor signal, the FDCS (Fuel Delivery Command Signal) and the CID (Cylinder Identification Signal). The IDM generates a return message via the IDM return circuit. The messages include whether the proper fuel and timing signals were received, and the IDM also communicates injector circuit problems via the return circuit. The FDCS (Fuel Delivery Command Signal) includes basic information from the PCM to the IDM on fuel pulse width and timing. This signal consists of a 14v digital square wave at 43 hz at an idle. The CID (Cylinder Identification Signal) is a synchronizer signal to identify what cylinder should be fired. It consists of a 14v digital square wave at 5.4 hz at an idle. The IDM generates a return message which consists of a 11.2v digital square wave at about 41hz (idle). The messages include whether the proper fuel and timing signals were received, and the IDM also communicates injector circuit problems via the return message. IDM return codes are common and are treated with a new IDM per TSB. Check your power and ground first! Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Post deleted by Bruce Amacker (duplicate post)

OK, I'll bite. I'm not aware of this update and question how it will help a coking problem. Can you elaborate? Is there a TSB/SSM? Thanks! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

This fitting was stripped severely on my DPF also, spinning around without coming out. It gave me a huge fight to extract it. I wonder what monkey assembled it. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Jesus, now I know why the price of gas is so high. It's financing all of the F-ups shown in those pictures! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

To go along with the heated tailgate....! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

1. All major Japanese companies have assembly plants in the US. 2. There are some Japanese cars that are 100% built in the US with NO imported parts at all. (Accord was one a few years ago, but I don't keep statistics current) 3.This is a global economy and you are sadly mistaken if you don't think so. If you think buying a Ford or Harley is buying a 100% American vehicle, you are incorrect. So what do you think is supporting the US economy more? A. Buying a Big Three vehicle built in Mexico or Canada. B. Buying a Toyota, Honda, or Nissan built in the US. Keep in mind that labor accounts for approximately 60% of a vehicle's production cost. If a Jap car is built in the US of US components, only the net profit goes to Japan- probably about 2-3%. What percentage of a Big Three vehicle (built in US) is imported? Certainly more than 2-3%. Have you walked the showroom recently and read the window sticker stating the orgins of Ford engines and transmissions? Your answer is? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

This is not much of a surprise to me and I won't miss them a bit. I've never liked Cat due to their constant need for specialized tools and procedures, their lack of support for the aftermarket, and their obvious intentions of eliminating the independent shop from servicing their engines. The EPA has been far too lax in instituting/enforcing regulations in the HD market like they have in the automotive market. Hooray! No love lost. http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601091&sid=a6_BXKNE.BJE&refer=india Mahindra has released a press statement stating they are to build a LD diesel pickup with a German engine to be built at an unnamed Ohio plant. This has to be a a Navistar facility, I'm guessing, like the Springfield assembly plant. I welcome any more LD diesel "anythings" but am skeptical at whether Mahindra's $22K diesel pickup has a place in the US market. If it was $12-14K it would be hot, but the high vehicle price, high price of fuel and the unknown overseas name will combine to give it quite a hurdle to overcome. It will be interesting.... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

This is a fairly common topic that is not limited to VGT's. I get calls from students stating they've put X number of turbos on the same truck within some small amount of time and they want to know why. I repeat the same thing you stated about pre-lubing and oil contamination. I did hear of some offshore CHRA cartridges that were junk on 7.3s a while back, and you probably got several in a row from the same supplier if it was bad. I always recommend an oil analysis when anything weird like this happens. Oil analysis is certainly one of the cheapest, most overlooked forms of diagnostics. Yea, it takes a week or so if you don't have a lab handy, but some Cat facilities have a spectrometer on site and can give you a printout immediately. If you don't have a lab nearby, Napa/Wix 4077 is the best $14 you'll ever spend. BTW Larry, what's your policy on holding the impeller on startup for prelubing? P.S. My policy when I ran the shop on stuff like this was to change suppliers when I got a bad one. Too many times the supplier had a problem and had several bad in a row....... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Jim: I'd suggest downloading the Google Toolbar, which is free and quick. In the toolbar, it has an instant spellcheck that spelchecks any webpage that you're typing on. It works grat. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Oh, yeah, hockey. I thought this thread was going to be about what boots to wear in the shop. I was gonna say, Yea, Red Wings are great. I've been wearing them for decades........ /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

The CKP trigger wheel could be loose, and the CMP trigger PIN can also come loose, but it usually hits the CMP and makes a mark on it. Did the guy inspect the old components, or are they still hanging around? I'd disconnect the alternator to see if excessive AC was causing problems. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Wow! I've never heard that before. I HONESTLY know of only one laptop that's been broken among all of my contacts, and that was another trainer. This is an old pic, but here's what we use at my old shop still: Open the top drawer and drop the whole laptop into the drawer, cables and all, roll it in the corner when you're not using it, for protection. It has a power strip screwed on it's side for power, and extra drawers are handy for schematics, extra cable hookups, etc. I'm lazy and like sitting down when I do diag, so it's either at the cart or in the front seat. Now that I've said that, I jinxed myself and will be breaking laptops by the dozen...... Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

My info is that the IDS kit price went from $2400 to $2700 and the basic subscription went from two years to one year. You do need XP Pro, but you don't need the supported laptops or Toughbook. I think they are a waste of money, as I've rarely seen a laptop broken in the shop among thousands of my students. Once it's together, put it in it's own cheapie Craftsman rollaround lower cabinet to protect it. I thought the Rotunda tool flyers prices were a couple hundred bucks cheaper to the dealer techs, if they are still running. Larry, call 800-ROTUNDA and get a current price on the IDS from them to compare. It might be cheaper from them than dealer cost. It was nice meeting you and seeing the shop- you guys have a lot of top quality equipment in the fuel side, now it's time to get the drive-in side up to par. They currently are fixing 6.0s without a scan tool, using an OBD2 code reader with NO scan data. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Not hard at all, surprisingly. I submitted the filter and a letter explaining what went wrong (filter media collapsed, motor spun a rod 500 miles from home, ruined a vacation) and they sent a letter requesting an invoice. They paid the invoice with a letter stating they admit no fault, but are doing this out of "customer relations". Yea, right. It was August 1986 and I remember it like yesterday, it was on a buddies car that I sold him. I still shiver when I see an orange filter...... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Injector hold downs, 120 in/lb. Valve cover, 13 ft/lb. Adjust the valves while you're in there, as they will be loose and the guy will feel the power when they're set right. Valve lash, .025 cold in/ex. Good Luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I wouldn't use Fram if they were free. I had a defective Fram filter cost me an engine years ago and it still leaves a bad taste in my mouth. They did pay P&L on the engine, but the taste just won't go away.... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

This is all correct, but this is where theory conflicts with reality. There's a salt mine under downtown Cleveland, so the price of salt is very cheap here. Many suburbs have a "wet road" policy in the winter, which means there is to be no snow on the road surface at all. This means an enormous amount of road salt is used here, enough that it is commonly built up several inches deep on the shoulder as a powder at times when it dries out. If you don't grease the wheels, they won't come off next year. It's a choice between two devils- going against what the mfr says, or torching/breaking half of the lugs and wasting a bunch of time (money) removing the wheels every time they come off. I can remember only having one wheel come loose in 30 years, and I'm pretty sure the tech simply forgot to tighten it. (front wheel on a 1 ton GM, cust caught it before damage was done) I am aware that the mfr's all say clean, dry, torqued, but around here they will really rot together. Anti-seize would be better, but I would have gone broke buying it for the amount we'd use. Oddly enough, we saw more loose wheels on trucks we didn't service regularly than the trucks we did service regularly. We did quite a few hubs/wheels on non-regular customers, and I think the rust buildup caused this. We regulary sandblasted the rust off the wheel centers to be sure they seated correctly. I never once ate a loose one, though. I'm just relating my experiences. We've greased tens (maybe hundreds?) of thousands of wheels without a problem and I know others around here that do the same thing. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I know the mfr's don't recommend grease, but we've been using it for 30 years without problems. We're in a heavy road salt area, and work on a lot of trucks that haul chlorine and other very corrosive chemicals. A coffee can filled with chassis grease sits on each tech's cart with a solvent brush in it. We paint a coating of grease on the lug studs and wheel hubs, and they rarely give grief coming off again. All lug nuts are burped with a gun, but also hand torqued with a torque wrench to spec. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif