Jwebb1981

Our dealership just bought a 05 f650 rollback with a cat. It ran out of fuel on the way home the other night, but the real fuel tank is full. How does the transfer system work? Is there a switch or something? Does the computer run it? please help!

Hey guys! I had a customer come into day, he knew that I used to work for ford, and asked if I knew anything about the bolts on the drive shaft where it bolts to the trans. It's a 99 F-350 with a 7.3l. He says that the bolts keep backing off. He tried lock tite and that doesn't seem to hold them in place. I was wondering if you guys know anything that will help him. Thanks

Well, after a week on the job the grass looks like around 75 degrees all day. Getting paid when there is no work. No boss barking at me to get 3 trucks done in one day. I go home at 5. I get overtime, 7 vacation days, I guess the only down side is that it will take a couple of yrs to make I would have been makeing at the dealership. But the less headaches and my back doesn't hurt anymore, so it kinda evens out I guess

Yeah I tired the whole gavy in b/w diesels I ended up turing less time due to the fact it takes a day to get parts. I have made my mind up to leave today is my last day here. In fact I am leaving in about 10min. The good news is that I do have a 4 bay shop behind my house with two lifts like I have here. And I know people that have 6.0s with about 100,000 miles on them. I can make good side money doing that if I want. I am just tired of the whole being 3 diesel deep on monday and they all have to go by wednesday regardless of whats wrong with them. I could make more money here than at carquest but the thought of going home and not putting ice packs on my back is sounding will good. For godsakes I am only 25 not 50. Who knows if I get the right offer I may be back. I will still be on this site in the background praying for you guys.

I wish that I could answer that Doctor that what I have been tring to figuare out. 16.50/21.50 is good money don't get me wrong. Well as long as I can turn a good bit of time. Some weeks we are so slow I don't turn nothing. Anyways I like the idea of carquest that I won't be working long hours and they have a/c Not have the stress of working on these diesel are another plus. But I know that I will miss them in a werid way. I may take the job just until I find something else. Like a brand that don't have diesel or have diesels but better benefits other then just getting a paycheck.

Another question I have is if your shop was slow or your get ur ass kicked by a problem and turn no time does your shop help you out on your paycheck if so what do they do.

I got a job offer from carquest to help in the fleet market to work the counter for starting pay at 9 dollars/hr. When I told my boss that I was quiting, He asked "What can I do to keep you here"? The reason that I am thinking about the carquest job right now is because of the past 3 wks since I got back from my honeymoon. I have been working on a 6.0 engine swap. It has been a big pain in my ass. everything has gone wrong. So, my boss starts out with the offer of 16.50 for gasoline engines and 21.50 for diesels. And I have to go to 6.4 trainning. right now I am making 14.00 gas and 19.00 diesel. Carquest offer is 9.00 now 90 days will move to 9.50. 40 to 45 hrs a week. 5 miles less to drive one way. Annual rasies and 4% cost of living increase every year. My question is if you was 25 and married which one would you take? What else would you ask for to keep you and the shop. I know that no one can tell me which one to take but I would like advice from people that have been in this for longer than I have. BTW I have only 1 yr of diesel exp and about 2 yrs co-op exp. Thanks.

Ok pulled codes here is the list CMDTC p0262, P0277, P0401, P0404, P1335, P2271, P0280, P0403, P0405. Pretty much same codes on KOEO, KOEO injector, KOER. Called hotline and fixing to perform TSB 06-2-13 he also wanted me to verify 45psi fuel. I currently don't have a fuel guage for the diesel. Could someone give me the tool number for the guage or a aftermaket one would work to. Thanks

I think the best way is to take the cab off. But I also liked the fact that all time studies where done with the cab on for the 6.0

Was looking at the TRP (tech review panel) notes and notice that they talked about the 6.4 training will include WBT, 2-3 day class, and WBT Cab removal process. I think that we all knew that the Cab removal process was coming, but are you happy with it? To me it was that only way I could beat some of the labor ops.

Well I replaced the EGR for the code and that it felled the runup test. I found out what this guy was finally talking about. It does do it everytime you take off from a standstill and go WOT. I guess this guy thinks that it is supposed to take off like a muscle car. I let him know that every diesel does that and that it is normal.

I would rather have a car as a sign on bonus than money, but that just bc of my 250,000 mile honda is getting old and loves to drink oil. A couple of guys that I went though the Asset program with got there dealership to pay for gas to school and even pay for there schooling. But you know its funny how dealerships will pay you 1 or 2 thousand dollars to get you to come to work with them. Then later own when things are slow and they don't want to help you. And they wonder why that can't keep techs.

Ok, had a 06 F350 with lack of pwr in last week. Blowing black smoke, make noise from turbo. Found turbo not boosting replaced turbo test drove the piss out of the truck. I notice that it shifted harder than a normal truck. 4 days later the guy comes back saying it still has a lack on pwr during accleration. Customer told me to my and the SM face that it does it every time. One code for egr. Code was not there during last visit. SM jumps me says that I should have found the problem last time it was in. Got the SM to ride with me. I left the parking lot with both back tires smoking. I turned to him and said "Yeah, this don't have enough pwr" I was talking to the paint guy who informed me that the guy has two chips on the truck. I can't find the chips so I think he may take them off before he brings me the truck. With this new knowledge I start thinking that maybe he is over boosting the system and causeing the egr to blow open. But I can't prove that he has chiped the system. Of course custom says he hasn't chiped the truck, so I was wondering if there where any tell tell signs that I should be looking for.

Fords Normal Condition = They don't know what is going on or they don't have a answer. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

Per hotline I unpluged each injector and we ran the koeo electical self-test. The code didn't go away so it is looking to be a IDM

I have a 7.3 that the guys brought in for skipping and no pwr. Run codes CMDTC P0113 p0500 p1316. KOER p0476. Contribution test p0263 p0275 p0269 p0281. KOEO electrical self test p1271 p1277 p1275 p1293. I have replaced the gasket and harness on the right bank performed electrical test again and only had p1293 high side open cir. I have ohmed out the wires b/w the IDM and the value cover connector. Also when you run the electrical self test right bank is not as loud as the left bank. Anything I am missing before I hand this guy a price for a IDM.

Got my frist oops "I put gas in my diesel". It has a half a tank in it and the customer said he put 8 gal of gas in it. What do you guys do in this instance, just drain the tank? Do you drop the tank? Do you flush the lines replace fuel filters? Also he drove the truck to work and had it towed here.

I watched a class on ford star wednesday. During the Q&A part one tech asked when we are going to see info on the 6.4. One of the teachers said that they will try to have info on when the web training is going to be released by the next class which is sometime in may I think.

When I went to school for 6.0, the teacher told us that 2 yrs ago he would have told us that the PC/ED was gold and we should follow its teaching. But todays PC/ED, he said that we have to be smarter than the person who wrote it.

I have already started tearing it down I really believe it is the egr cooler. Let set over night when I fired it up. The engine ran rough and alot of white smoke came out the back. Also the coolent is soild black. Ran into a problem with the metal heater hose that comes around the alternator. It broke off next to the timing cover. After inspecting the hose it looked like the metal was weak.

F-250 customers says going down the road the red battery light came on. He went to advance to have his batterys tested. One of the had a bad cell, so he then went to Wal-mart to purchase 2 batterys for his diesel. After installing his batterys himself he made sure the truck would start. After starting the truck he notice that the battery light was still on. He thought to himself that it could be the alternator so while the diesel was running he undid both batterys after seeing the truck did stop running he reconnected the batterys. The diesel then stoped running. After an hour of trying to restart the truck he finally had it towed into the dealership. I found that he sent a voltage spike to the TCM. I noted on the ticket and told hotline to that he caused this so it can't be change to warrenty. I no that my Service Manager wont like this when he gets back next week. But I think that the owner needed to learn a lesson. The bill to replace the tcm/pcm, towing, and alternator came to around 1,000 dollars. All this to save 100 dollars.

Well my boss has finally decided to give a raise on diesel only repairs. He asked me to think about how much I want as long as it is fair to me and THE DEARLERSHIP. I have 2yrs exp. on diesels and unlike the other people here that try to fix these things I luckly get it right the frist time. Though I don't tell him that I get alot of help from these fourm . So any advise would be helpful on how much I should try to get.

F250 with a work bed so it is a heavily loaded work truck. I don't know about the towing. The customer says that he can smell coolent in the cab of the truck but not all the time. And that the degas bottle needs to be filled ever once in a while. The coolent is very slick feeling and it stinks. This is probley the worse smell I have every smelled. The coolent level now is a the min mark. I did have a code in PCM CMDTC for ICP low pressure but has no other symptom. I saw the tsb for head gaskets but don't see anything on the outside to the engine. I looked real good knowing that they are know to blow out. I didn't see anything on the EGR either. Also check the heater core, hoses, water pump, heater hoses, oil pan, and radiator. Customer has never actually seen the coolent on the ground.

I have an 03 customer states that there is an coolent leak. Looked all over the engine could not find one. Finally opened the degas bottle the coolent was black but not milky. Opened the oil drain plug did not see any coolent come out, but the oil didn't feel right to me. It was slick and shiney on my hand like a mirror. Any surgestions?

I haven't checked the starter area yet. I will do that right now. But I have been all over the head and it is not there. Next stop in the oil pan.