ChristopherH

Does anyone have a part number for the plug that goes in the top of the 6.4 turbo actuator cooler for bleeding air when filling the fuel cooler system?

We just fixed one that the glow plugs on the left bank had seperated and repeatedly failed (3 seperate times). They were from out of the area and their home dealer just kept installing new glow plugs and harness as needed. It came here with an overheating concern and blowing white smoke out of tailpipe. Pressure testing EGR coolers--both passed, but system would not hold vacuum with airlift with no external leaks. After removing cylinder heads, found the Left Bank cylinder head with visual cracks between the valves and the glow plugs had started to seperate again--looked like heat damage to insulator between outer sleeve and center piece. Just saw this thread and thought I would add that to it.

I'm in class right now and we don't have the coffee table books either. Instructor doesn't either-just a pdf copy. However he said to make sure everyones mailing address is right in stars because they are supposed to mail all of us a hard copy when they get them all printed. Ill ask about that dtc and let you know.

Thanks for reminding me of that pic. I still am in awe of that truck when it came in for a hard start cold, lacks power, and uses oil concern--REALLY? It had the two hole saw cut holes on the front of the airbox lid and two matching holes on the back. Nicely done holes too by the way, AND the air box clips were not even broken! Sometimes you just have to shake your head and walk away--words escape you in some cases. I have said for years that FORD should make a special tool to open the hood that you are only allowed to purchase and use if you are a CERTIFIED tech at a dealer! I suggested that a few times, but Ford hasn't gotten back to me yet.

1972 Morton Thiokol Sprite Snow Cat with an inline 6 cylinder Ford industrial engine--with a rod knock.

I agree, I have done several with markings like this and had no problems--I just wanted to see if you guys had seen these same marks and how everyone else is adressing them. This particular truck I told them that repairing/replacing the rh cylinder head and reassembly would probably fix it just fine--BUT based on those marks I was't going to gaurantee it. The recommendation to replace the head and short block came from management--they do not want to take any chances--would rather not fix it if there is any room for this to come back on us. I can't say that I blame them, but if it was mine, I would fix that head and reassemble it.

This customer has an aftermarket warranty, and after their adjuster came out the other day and inspected it, I think they are going to send us a used engine to install (typical of these am warranty companies) When I get the engine out, I will pull the piston to inspect it closer, but here are the pics I promised--sorry if they are not very clear, but the vertical marking is hard to see.

I just had an opinion question for everybody about this 6.0 I'm working on right now. It had a cylinder #3 injector failure with hydrolock that was repaired at another dealer. I have it now with only 200 miles since that repair--cylinder #3 had a dead misfire and showed a major loss of compression on ids. Manual compression test backed up that it had 0 psi. No problems were found with the valve train, so off comes the cylinder head. One of the #3 exhaust valves is burned away right at the edge (damage is approx 1/4" in diameter) valve seat is damaged, and the glow plug tip is melted slightly. The piston does not appear distorted in any way, and the cross hatching looks good (engine only has 46k on it) however, there are several vertical marks in the cylinder--especially adjacent to where the burned valve was. I don't want to use the word scratch, because they have no metal transfer in them and will not catch a fingernail. Cylinder #1 has the same type of marking, but not as extensive. I have seen marking like this before on other 6.0s that I have taken apart for head gaskets or other reasons and nothing was done about those (they were under warranty and thats what management decided) These did not return with any concerns. Obviously, these marks have to be due to either debris that was trapped between the cylinder wall and piston, or the piston itself contacting the cylinder wall due to deformation or missing skirt coating. The hotline said: "Anytime there is a melted piston, metal transfer, or distortion of the cylinder wall/crosshatch, short block replacement is recommended." My question then, is how bad is too bad? Is there zero tolerance for what you would consider usable or not usable? This truck is a 2003 (out of warranty), and the customer doesn't think the cylinder looks too bad--but he doesn't want to pay a bunch of money to re-assemble an engine that is going to fail again soon because of an incomplete repair. I would normally tend to err on the side of caution in this situation, but I welcome everybody elses opinion on this one. I will try to post some pictures tomorrow as soon as I get my good digital camera from my house. Thanks.

We just went through a warranty audit and they charged back about 40k worth of unclaimable repairs. They took all of our ROs for the last six months and said we could choose to have all of them reviewed or to break it into 10 groups and then pick one group to be checked--then the unclaimable repairs found would be times 10. There were only about 20 ROs that the auditor charged back money on and after review of them, I take issue with about 90% of his reasoning--we even got him to reverse his decision on a few of them. We have always used diesel diag sheets and documented EVERYTHING! He told us however that we should only do the tests on the diag sheets when directed to by a pin point test! (One of the things I disagree with him on) Using his thinking, lets look at a 2006 6.0 with a misfire and a cylinder contribution code. Look up pinpoint test P in the PCED and follow it out until injector replacement is directed. There are many diagnostic operations directed in that PPT that on MOST 6.0 misfires I do not claim. I rarely have claimed combustion gas in the fuel rail test (at least if its only one cylinder missing), fuel aeration test, oil aeration test, or crankcase pressure test. I know there are trucks where these tests are required, and I use them when appropriate, but I don't use them on every 6.0 that has a misfire! I pointed this fact out and that our warranty average would go up instead of down if we follow the auditors advice and was told that this is where we should use our knowledge and experience to decide what was appropriate! Sounds a litte contradictory to the "by the book and the warranty policy manual, lock step, no deviation, or be subject to charge back" mantra that they have been preaching lately. How can we all be way over the national average on these diesel repairs? It sounds to me like we all are having the same failures and that we are all fixing them the same way! I would like to see the raw data that they are basing these numbers on BEFORE they put it through the magical formula that makes all dealers nationwide comparable to each other! If you have ever taken statistics, you know that numbers can be manipulated to show whatever result you desire. I don't know if thats the case here, but I am definitely suspicious when we are doing everything we can to repair these trucks right and to save warranty as much money on parts and labor as we can, but still we are 195% above the national average???

Job Security, Job Security, Job Security....

I agree, I don't think the recession is over either. Funny how it sprang up and got really bad in time for the last election and now it is getting better leading into the 2010 elections! Dittos on losing jobs overseas also. I remember seeing a commercial the other day where a guy goes on a "Made In The USA" kick and starts throwing stuff out of his house if it wasn't made here. He threw out all the kitchen stuff, furniture, electronics, etc. and was soon left with an empty house and the only thing left was his Henry rifle over the mantle! Sad but true--it is getting hard to find the items you use everyday that are made in USA.

Sorry man, but I don't get any kickbacks from these guys. Come to think of it, I don't get any from Ford either. I just want to try and help some of these customers who keep having expensive repeat egr cooler failures on their 6.0s, but do not want to violate any emissions laws. I can tell you after looking at the price and construction comparison between the two that I know which one would go on my truck. Those repair bills get ugly when the powerstroke warranty expires!

I have installed several of the aftermarket upgraded egr coolers that bullet proof diesel sells. They use the Ford cores and cut off the ends and then weld in way thicker and better tubes, put them back together and pressure test them. They come with a 12 month warranty and cost about 300.00. If you buy a new one, they send you a return shipping label for your old core and give you back 50.00. These egr coolers perform exactly like the OEM coolers and do not delete or modify the egr system in any way. So far, I am very impressed and try to sell all of my customer pay jobs on these coolers. Click here for more info: http://bulletproofdiesel.com/Ford_Power_Stroke_EGR.html

It looks like they have brought back my favorite tool tray too! I missed that area right behind the grill by the hood latch when the 6.4s came out! Any news on horsepower, torque, or mileage? Looks like a nice truck--too bad we have to wait 6 months for one!

Just found out that one of the other diesel techs in our shop has been sleeping (well they weren't really sleeping) with our lube guys wife! Needless to say the shit has hit the fan here today! Lube guy jammed a 3 foot pry bar through said diesel techs box a few times and quit. Diesel tech might lose his job over this one--one of the horizontal mambo sessions apparently happened during work hours on a road test! Holy hell--its like a damn tv show and I wouldn't have believed it if I weren't here in the middle of it. Looks like I'll be having plenty more 6.0s (as if I didn't have enough already!) That was my day--whew!

We ran a 5.0 in an F150 for 20 minutes at WOT (headers were glowing) with no oil in it. Then they added water from a water hose to the crankcase and continued to run it. We put in 2-3 qts of the liquid glass (motor seize) and it ran about 1 minute and locked up! That's without MOA, but I really do think the MOA is good stuff. We were thinking of testing it and Duralube, ZMAX, and a few others just to see what would happen, but I don't think anything will stop that sodium silicate crap!

Sorry if this would have worked better in the 6.4 forum, but I put it here because it is what is in my bay and it sucks!

This is the latest adventure to hit here! Anybody else seeing lots of these types of 6.4 failures? This is number 5 in the past 3 months for us--it had approx 30 qts of oil/fuel in it and 2 qts in the CAC!

Our gauge bar is trashed and I personally don't trust its test results. I found an inexpensive water manometer that I use for crankcase pressure tests that works well. It is a Dwyer Item# A1221-16K--just my two cents. By the way, at our altitude (5900 feet above sea level) even a good engine only measures 350psi on a good day! (I had to argue this with the hotline on a few occasions because they told me the engine had low compression when I gave them the numbers--results with three different diesel compression gauges compared to each other on the same engine and compared across several different good engines)

I was just wondering if anyone has any suggestions out there about this problem. This truck is a 7.3 idi w/o turbo. It will start and run for 3 seconds and then die. It does this with a hot or cold engine. After doing this a few times it will start and run normally. The engine runs well when it is running. I have checked for battery voltage at the fuel cutoff solenoid during the concern and it is good and does not drop out. The injector return tees and o rings have been replaced. There are no fuel leaks found. I am suspecting possibly an aeration problem or fuel bleed back issue. Any common problems that anybody remembers on this?

I contacted the technical hotline and the part number is #5C3Z-14A411-A just in case anyone wants it.

Does anyone have the part number for this pigtail written down anywhere? I have only put two of these on in all of the 6.0s I have worked on and it took calling the hotline and lots of horsing aroung to get the part number. I know it is available seperately and I had the number written down in my box, but it has gone MIA.

When our 7 year old desktop PC lost the hard drive, we purchased a laptop about 2 years ago and my wife mainly uses it. The battery went south and we are waiting for one to come in for it. In the time being, we decided to pick up a second laptop and purchased a new MacBook Pro. I have to admit that I like it and so far is seems to work great. Although I have a lot to learn--this is my first Mac.

Just the short block R&R (6007B1) pays 22.1 plus the cab R&R (6007B) pays 6.1 hours thats 28.2 hrs without counting any diagnostic labor ops or any M time for stripped cab bolts, etc. Also, the last one I did, I had to do a manual compression test and cylinder leakage test as well as remove the valve covers, etc. in vehicle as part of my diagnosis and there were no labor ops for the compression test or CLT test. I could easily believe that low to mid 30s would be normal for one of these.

Or Power Smoke--hey the 6.0s pay my mortgage and put food on my table--who's complaining?