GregKneupper

I just replace a set of exhaust manifolds in chassis on one of these. The passenger side ended up have a broken bolt in the head. Ended up having to pull head with the cab on. But I was able to remove both manifolds without pulling the cab. The radiator and all the stuff behind it had to come out.

I just got done doing a cylinder head gasket with a cab on on one of these trucks. It was very labor intensive but when it was all said and done it was not really that bad. Cab off is definately easier though.

after rechecking everything and all connectors a pcm ended up fixing it. It was a very strange problem and I have never seen this before. As for the missing battery covers I see quite a few that are missing.

Ok, I think that this thing is going to need a pcm. After more investigation and replacing the cam and cranks sensors and the harness the ficm sync stayed yes. But the truck now runs worse than before. I do not know why sync now stays yes but I am losing communication with the tcm at times. It started and ran fine until it got hot, then it would start to drop out. I reran codes and got a p0500, p1000, and pass tcm. I went and drove it and it was cutting out, shifting erraticly and would not accelerate past 5 mph. Shut it off and it would not restart. The starter was engaging then disengaging. There was no communication to tcm. Reran codes and got a p1000 in the pcm and a tcm fail error. Tried datalogger on tcm and no communication. Waited a few minutes and truck started right up but still cut out. I now had communication to tcm. Brought it back in the shop and it still ran like crap. Shut it back off and it would not restart again. Same scenario. After a while it would start back up. Reran codes again and had a p0606 in the pcm and a tcm pass code. Have inspected harness down to trans and see nothing wrong anywhere. Obviously it is losing communication between the pcm and the tcm so it is shutting engine down. So I now have a pcm on order for this thing and it should take care of it.

the crank does not have any endplay. The rpm pid does not get erratic when the concern happens. The cam sensor has been pulled and inspected. It ohmed out good and there was no physical damage on the sensor. There was not rust behind it causing it to pull out. Fortunately for us in texas we do not see many rust issues. I will try a new cam and crank sensor first. I would not think it is a trigger wheel as you said the rpm signal would be erratic. The only change in it is when the truck does cut off it drops a little rpm due to the engine not running. I feel pretty confident it is in the cam circuit.l have also done a alternator ripple test on it and it passes. There are no other add ons on this truck.

I am working on a 2006 f250 that has a complaint of bucking and jerking while driving. I have verified the concern and the truck is losing ficm sync while at highway speeds. It is intermittent but I can replicate it everytime I drive it. There are no codes except a fuel delivery error code in the tcm. I have checked all the circuits and cannot find any problems. Cam sensor has been pulled and inspected and there are no problems with it. I am suspecting a wire harness issue but wiggling on it does not show any issues. The truck has 67000 miles on it and is well taken care of. Has anyone had any similar issues like this?

Man guys I really got to say that I feel for you. I guess your remans obviously come from somewhere else as we have replaced quite a few 6 liters and have had only one that had a problem. It would burn a lot of oil and had some serious blowby. Ran great though. It did leave but customer brough it back because it was burning all the oil out and would stall when the level became low. Never knew what was wrong with it. Replaced with another and no problems.

The intake and exhaust has been smoke tested. I cannot find any leaks. The exhaust is all stock and air intake is all stock. There is no evidence of any kind of exhaust restriction. I am starting to think that this is just the way this truck is or there is a calibration issue with it.

Both turbos have been replaced as well as the maf sensor. The intercooler looks to be good and does not have any excessive oil or coking in it.

Your t stats are more than likely the cause. I have replace quite a few that were mangled up pretty bad. I would pull those and inspect them next.

If air is leaking past the shaft seal I would say that is normal. I tested one a while back while I still had it apart and there was a leak around the shaft seal. I went ahead and tried it anyway. It started up no problem and is still running around.

Yes, I have to admit that working here is great as far as rusted vehicles are concerned. I rarel see rusted vehicles.

Ok. It has been a while since I posted on this truck. Any ways it is still not fixed. FSE has been involved off and on for months now. It has been try this and try that. This is what has been done now. Pcm, tcm, thermostats, 2 radiators, (yes it has gone that far now), dpf pressure sensor, maf, egr cooler have been pulled and tested for leakage and front cover has been inspected for cavitation. I have personally driven this truck over 750 miles. With a trailer and without. It does not matter if you are towing or not it will go into regen every 55 to 80 miles. Fuel is good. Oil changed multiple times. Fuel filters clean. FSE has driven with me for many miles on this concern. Recordings were taken and sent to detroit. No one can come up with anything. They now want me to try a cluster as they think that maybe the hour meter is sending wrong info to pcm causing it to go into regen to much. The dpf pressure is about 2.5 psi when it enters regen. This is not enough to send it into regen so I do not believe the dpf is actually starting to plug up. Any ways just seeing if there are any fresh ideas on this. I am fed up with this vehicle.

Came in this morning and truck was gone. While I was in school they had another tech replace all the injectors. They drove it over an hour and said that it was fixed. I hope that it is. So I guess that the injectors were obviously the problem but I cant imagine that all of them were bad. It had to have been one or maybe a few causing a problem. But finding which one would be difficult unless you swapped one injector at a time and test drove it after each replacement. I have inspected all of them out of the vehicle and physically there is nothing wrong with them. This is the first time I have seen an injector cause this concern without the d ring being blown out.

Thanks for the reply. I am back to work tommorow and will get more into this vehicle in the morning. I will let you know what I come up with.

No I do not Bruce. Sounds like a good idea though. I cant think of anywhere else it may be leaking though. All the seals, d rings, stanpipes, and hpop orings are all good. I even pulled the caps off the end of the high pressure oil manifolds and they are good.

the icp sensor has been replaced as well as the connector. I have not verified the pressure of the low pressure system. When the engine is cold it will easily produce over 4000 psi. The theory behind the injectors is that they are spilling to much oil. I personally have never seen this but that does not mean it could not happen. I will test all this later next week as I have to go to school next week. What is the possibility that the new pump is bad? I have heard people say that they have had bad pumps out of the box but I have not. I cant imagine that 2 will do the exact same thing. I also wanted to mention that when the engine is hot that it does have a hard start. It will always start but it is excessive. It really feels like it has a high pressure oil leak somewhere.

I have and lcf that I have inherited from our sister store. I have been working on powerstrokes for many years but this is my first lcf. Complaint is check engine light coming on. It has a 333 code. It only sets under wot and runs perfect all the time. You can watch icp and icp desired and there is a good 900 psi difference between the two. The other store replaced the hpop, ipr valve, all stand pipes and orings. I have dissasembled all of their work and reinspected everything. I also air tested the system with the pump off and could not find any leaks. It only sets the code when hot. The oil and filter are new and is the correct type. Have been in contact with hotline and was told that it was going to need injectors. I have never experienced this on a 6.0. Does any one have any other information on this concern or know of something that I may be missing. Any help would be appreciated.

Same problem here. Seems every other truck I work on has a napa filter on it.

being that I was not the one to install the original gasket I could not tell you what condtion they were in before being installed. I have done several of these and know that they need to be pushed on until you can hear the click and then pulled on to make sure they are seated. When I removed the gasket after it failed you could clearly see that the tabs were bent back. I assume that it was made this way. I asked the tech that installed the harness and he told me he noticed that they did not feel right. Why he continued to put it on is beyond me. When I was instructed to install the body that is all I did to it. He already had the engine put back together so I did not see the harness or get to view him installing it.

I just got burned on one of these. Another tech in our shop replaced the harness on one and then had to go to school the next day. I ended up just having to put the body back on the truck. On the test drive it ended up breaking down on me. Towed it back and ran codes and got the p0090. Ohmed it out and it was open. Pulled the body back off and the connectors just fell off the pump. The tabs that lock the connector to the pump were both bent backwards and would not latch onto the pump. You could just pull them right off. So we did an spw on the gasket and the new one fit just fine. This seems to be a problem with these gaskets as there is a forum topic on fmc dealer about this as well.

That's what I am saying. These branch tubes suck to replace. I cant even count how many stc fittings that I have done that bent the shit out of the tube. Almost everyone I do has witness marks on the rear engine cover. I have been doing almost 3 fittings a week for years and have only had to replace one branch tube. I always put air to them, and if they are not leaking they do not get replaced. I have never had one come back on me with a cracked branch tube.

I have had 2 that had broken the rear cover. One of them I put a branch tube in. The other one I bent back and it has never been back. Customer still brings his truck in for maintenance and it is still going. That was about 1 year ago that I had replaced it.

Under the same section as mode 6 is obd drive cycle. Which on a gas car you would look at to see which monitors have passed. Mode 6 is available but I have not fully researched it. I did take a look at it but did not see anything on it that I would consider abnormal. All of the values were in range from what I remember. I will double check it monday morning. Is there any thing you think I should look out for specifically?

There is a selection for obd drive cycle but it does not work on this vehicle. I do not remember exactly what it said but the mode is not supported. Also there are no egr cooler leaks. It does not lose coolant and I had the exhaust off while doing the turbos on it.