GregKneupper

This may be true but it is not what I am told by the hotline. I also have driven this truck unloaded for 250 miles and it has gone into regen 6 times.

I was told by an fse one time that this was caused by lack of oil changes and extended idle time. Do not now how true that was and dont have any evidence to prove it.

What I was told that due to higher boost pressure and load that the excessive heat of the exhaust alone will keep the dpf hot and clear. It is called passive regeneration. Now this alone cannot handle complete cleaning so then there is activer regeneration to handle what passive cannot handle. Now I have replaced the maf sensor and drove it 120 miles and it went into regen 2 times. I have a fse coming out next week to look at it. It still has a p1000 in memory and no other codes. I am giving it back to the customer for now because he needs it for the weekend. Any other thought would be appreciated in the time being. Other than that I will let you all know what we can come up with next week.

It should go into regen less often because of the hard usage but it does not. When it goes into regen it will not boost over 25 lbs. the frp sensor is at .5 volts koeo so i assume it is ok. You can ramp up frp; desired and the actual frp corresponds with it correctly. I have also assumed that it might have a bad pcm and that is why it is not clearing the p1000. I guess it is also possible that the pcm is commanding to much fuel for some reason and that is why it is going into regen so much. But we all know how diagnosing a pcm without hard faults can be. I am going to put a maf on it this morning and see what happens. If it does not take care of it I am going to have a fse come out and let him decide to put a pcm on it as I have already replaced to many parts on this truck. I hace suspected a pcm for some time now but have no way to prove it is at fault. The reason it may not clear the p1000 and the excessice regen may be the same problem.

The charge air cooler is clean and does not seem to be restricted. The dpf and doc were replace 6000 miles ago. It goes into regen loaded and unloaded all the time. The customer states that it was going into regen at the same frequency even after he picked it up after the last repair. It should go into regen less while towing but it does not. He tows a backhoe with it about 90 percent of the time so it is always loaded.

Keith, the doc and dpf have both been replaced. The engine hours are at 1565 hours. It is off but not by a whole lot. I believe most of this idle time was from the previous owner of the vehicle as the new owner says he does not let it idle more than 5 minutes. I have built a pretty decent relationship with this guy and I do trust what he says. Also there are no missfires, relative compression is good, and the fuel trims are all in spec and not off of one another my much.

I have called hotline and am about ready to send an fse out here. I have done plenty of diag, I just have not listed it all. All sensors are in specification. Exhaust gas temp driving down the round is around 600 degrees and i have no egt or egrt sensor problems. Egr valve is operating correctly. Fuel is clean and it is ulsd. Crank case pressure test is at 4 inches. Ebp tube is clean. map sensor is clean. Have smoke tested intake and exhaust and there are no leaks. ect and eot are at 221 degrees. dpf pressure sensor is not biased koeo. This thing just keeps going into regen about every 60 to 70 miles. I have checked everything I can think of and can find nothing wrong to cause this problem. This truck was purchased used about 20000 miles ago and the customer and I do believe it had a programmer on it before because it did have an aftermarket exhaust and a banks sticker on it. All has since then been removed and everything is stock. And it was returned to stock upon purchase of the truck. Any thoughts as to what I may be missing or something else to try would be helpful. Thanks

Ok here goes. This is a long story. I have got a 2008 f 450 with a 6.4. I first checked this truck out for this guy about 6 months ago just on the side. I could not find any problems with it. He finally brought it back in may to have it checked out again. This time he left it with me. His complaint is low power and excessive regeneration. It definately had low boost. Ran codes and the only thing it had was a p1000 and a p0297. Asked him if he had a progammer on it and he says he does not. I trust him. So I check it out and find the gasket between the turbos leaking badly and a y pipe gasket leaking. I replaced the high pressure turbo, vgt actuator (because it broke), and all the exhaust gaskets. The truck still was not quite right when it was done. Better but not right. While driving it, it went into regen. I let the cycle complete and bam, it ran great. So I shipped it. 2 months later and 5500 miles it is back. Same problem. Asked him when it started to act up again and he said 6 days after he picked it up. So it did not make it very long. I recheked everything and found the gasket in between the turbos leaking again. This time i replaced the low pressure turbo and resealed every thing again. It still does not feel right. It goes into regen about every 70 miles. I have duplicated it multiple time. When it goes into regen it will not boost over 24 lbs and is very weak. The oil has been changed and the fuel is ulsd and has been checked. The air filter is clean and so are the fuel filters. The dpf and doc have also been replaced to no avail. The oil was not overfilled and it is the coreect type. All tests pass. All module updated to the latest level. Also the pcm will not clear the p1000. This truck was driven 5500 miles and it has never cleared. Last time he brought it in i updated it. He drove it another 1200 miles and then brought it back to be fixed. I ran codes again and it had a p1000. Checked clr dist and it was correct for when it was in last. Sorry the explanation is so long but I am now lost on this one. About to get an engineer involved. Any suggestion will be highly appreciated.

So if the pump is not what is causing holes in the ipr's then what is? Or do they just mean if there is debris on the screen to not replace the pump?

I replace a couple of ficms a week. Have also noticed a high failure rate after the inductive heat strategy. It has got to be what is killing them as I did not replace hardly any ficms before that reflash. It fixes the injector problems but it is killing ficms left and right.

I worked with a navistar fse one time for a week. He brought a few items with him to help diag the truck but most of the stuff we used was my own. He did bring quite a bit of the gaskets and all the nuts and bolts you would need for the engine though. We did not use any of them as we keep all of them in stock. Really good guy. Was not afraid to get his hands dirty and helped me do alot of the tear down on the engine.

run oasis on this truck for the cel being on and you will find a ssm that specifically states that aftermarket air and exhaust systems will cause this problem. I would show that to him.

the first thing you need to do is get that exhaust and the air filter off of there. the air filter will definately cause your p244a. I am not sure of the p2452 but restoring the system back to stock would be a good start.

i dont work on lcf trucks but i do work on a ton of 6.0's. i will assume that it is pretty much the same. i have had a few 6 liters that have had injectors drop only under high load and high rpm with no codes. i have had good success diagnosing these actually starting the engine cold and watching which cylinders drop off when cold. I replace those injectors that are not contributing correctly and have had good success with this.

I have found it strange how they set up the warning indicators and what sends it into derate mode. exhaust temp too high, derate mode. egt open circuit, derate mode. egrt sensor open circuit, derate mode. if it has low fuel pressure it goes into derate. if eot exceeds 275 it will go into derate. but if it is overheating it will keep right on going until it completely melts down. why do they let it do this. they need to come out with a reflash that will shut these engines down at lower temps. this will save alot of engines since they cant seem to fix the radiator issue with them.

I have replaced two high pressure turbos and have had no problems with it. I also did not check the gap and both went on the truck just fine. One of the turbos I did fell apart taking it off the engine so there was no way to measure a gap on that one. Were you able to get the vgt actuator off of the turbos? I tried the puller on both and ended up damaging the actuator rods on both of them.

i had one with this concern one time and it was a crank trigger wheel that had come loose. try doing a relative compression test and see if it pops up a cam/crank synchronization error code.

I have never seen the pump leak at the fittings but any thing is possible. But i would think that if your supply tubes were loose that is probable your problem. As for checking for leaks before putting everything back together that is possible. Take the belt loose from the accessories. Drop the cab back down. Disconnect your fuel cooler pump so it does not blow coolant everywhere. Connect the ground to the frame from the body. Connect your pcm connectors. Connect the 3 connectors on the lh side under the master brake cylinder and hook up your batteries. Just lay them in there. Then bleed the air out of the fuel system and start the truck. Run you high pressure fuel test and look for leaks to verify everything is ok. You can do all this without even hooking the exhaust up. Once it is verified everything is ok lift the body back up and reassemble everything. It sucks to have to do all the work but it is better than having to take it back apart if something is wrong.

There is also the possibility that the injectors are sludged up and will not move. Try a known good ficm and see if that changes it. But if you hung a known good injector on every cylinder and it clicked while the old injector did not I would suspect sludged injectors.

I had one of those do that to me a few weeks ago. First one I had that did that. Completly kicked my ass. Made me feel like I didnt know jack shit about fixing these trucks.

I am curious as to what everyone thinks might be going on with these radiators. I am no longer falling for this bad crimp issue. I have had a few trucks that have had multiple radiators replaced. All of the new ones have been after the certified build date and the crimps were inspected upon installation only to have them come back seperated. It is always on the left hand side of the radiator. I was thinking a possible pressure issue or something like the flow of the coolant since it flows to that side seperating the crimps. It is just frustating because this is getting a little ridiculous. How hard is it to make a radiator that wont fail?

I also agree with the turbocharger sticking. I have done quite a few where people bring them in with check engine lights with a P0299 and they report no driveability concerns. Upon tear down though you can clearly see the turbo is the problem.

I have had one of the bracket style fittings break on me. The orings just blew out even though it did not seperate. I dont think that there is much wrong with the bracket style but I like the looks of this new on better. I have a truck torn down right now waiting for the new kit.

Well I never thought that I would have another truck with compression gas coming throught the pintle on an injector. But I got an 06 in today that definately had compression in the fuel system. After pulling the injectors on the lh bank I put a vacuum gauge on them and #8 would not hold vacuum. This is a great test.

Make sure the fuel filters are clean. I have repaired numerous 6.4's for this same concern and these codes. They are not like a 6.0 that will keep on going. The high pressure fuel will go low due to low base fuel pressure and it will go into derate will quick.