GregKneupper

I need the part number if available for the oring that goes on the u tube of turbochargers. Parts is telling me I will have to get a complete turbo to get it. It is the small oring where the clamp goes to attach the tube to the turbo. Thanks.

I doubt that this truck has been chipped. It is always possible but I do not feel that is has been. I will drain my fuel pressure tester hose and see if that helps the problem with the fuel pulses. It is possible that this thing may just have a bad cam sensor in it. I have been burned by them before. It does have the old black colored one in it. I would just like to duplicate the concern and get this thing fixed for this guy. If I cannot duplicate it by tommorow evening I may just see if he wants to try a cam sensor in it and see how it goes.

The fuel pressure regulator and the water seperator were replaced about a year ago at another dealer the customer has told us. It does look new so I would assume that there is nothing wrong with the regulator. The hose I am using is about 5 feet long. Is that long enough? The pulses on the thing are wicked in my opinion. Of course as soon as you let it return to idle it goes right back to fluctuating between 50 and 56 psi no problem. As for the fuel it is clean and appears to be of good quality. I have nothing else to compare it to at this time.

I have a 1997 7.3 here with 175000 miles on it that the customer states dies at times and will not restart. Then it does start it runs real rough and shakes then smoothes out. Sounds like a fuel pressure issue. The only codes in it are a p0344 and and p0470. I do not work on these to much and was not around when they were being built. When i do a fuel pressure test at idle it fluctuates between 50 and 56 psi which I figures was normal due to the mechanical pump. But under wot the fuel pressure jumps around from 0 to 70 psi and the gauge flickers so fast you can barely read it. I have done an inlet restriction test and only have 2 inches of restriction. The fuel pump is not leaking any fuel. Is this reading normal or should it stay at a relatively steady reading under wot. If not then what else should I be checking. I also have not duplicated this concern but the fuel pressure reading is really bothering me.

I have been replacing quite a few injectors for contribution and misfire codes lately. A chafe or loose connector will set an open circuit dtc for that particular injector. More than likely if you do not have a circuit dtc you injector is just bad. Have had a few stuck closed and a few stuck open.

I have a 2006 lcf here with codes 163 and 365. The egr valve and egr driver were replace approximately 12000 miles and 2 years ago by our sister dealer. It was at another shop before being brought to me and that shop also replace the egr valve. At first the codes were hard faults and I could not clear them. I followed pinpoint test W which led to replacing the valve. But since the valve is new I would imagine that it is not the cause. Now the codes are gone and I cannot duplicate the concern any more. I have checked power and grounds to the valve and the driver module and they are all good. I have also checked all the wires in between the driver and the valve and have checked pin fit. My experience with lcf's is limited and have never encountered this concern. Is it possible that the driver module has failed again?

Been doing that way since the engine came out. The only different thing that I do is remove the cover on it first. Saves a ton of time.

I have replaced quite a few injection pumps for this concern. The fuel pressure regulator valve will stick in them and cause high fuel pressure momentarily. Monitor your fuel rail pressure and fuel rail pressure desired pids and make a recording of them during the concern. You will probably find it a few thousand psi off at times. Make sure you base pressure fuel system is operating properly and that the fuel is good with not water in it.

All of the bad inertia switches that I have seen fail have only tripped p0232 codes. Not a p0231.

And to think this whole issue has been due to plugged IAT sensors. How come it took so long for someone to figure this out.

Yes. It has been that way for a while now.

Is it possible that maybe the injector orings are bad and allowing high pressure oil or compression gas to enter the fuel system? That seems like that would be the only way for enough pressure to build in the system to blow that cap off. That cap is a pretty solid piece of plastic and I do not think that someone could strip out the threads.

There is no way in hell that I would install used fuel system parts on this engine. Those injectors and the pump could have just been sitting in a box collecting dirt on a shelf for who knows how long. Were there even any caps covering the inlet and outlet ports on them? I would tell them to buy new parts or no deal.

We had one like that here also. Truck only had 14000 miles on it and he blew the shit out of it racing it. Ford denied and he also paid cash to fix it. Cost him 24,000 to put the whole thing back stock.

Hmm, I really thought that the high pressure pump would fix it as I have seen it numerous times. But since you did not have a hard start concern I guess that would rule it out. Sounds like you have covered all you bases short of pulling the pan and inspecting the pickup tube. Other than that I do not know.

If the truck has power pedals make sure the ap circuit is not chafing on the accelerator pedal. Also a ficm harness would be highly suspect.

That is the craziest shit that I have ever seen.

I have replaced quite a few of them for leaking through the center. But I have never replaced 2 on the same truck.

The ball falling out only happens on the early model pumps. Not the ones that have the stc fitting. If you do not find an issue with the low pressure oil pump I would pull the pump cover and check for that ball.

Bruce, these trucks will run with the ball missing from the pump. Every one I have done ran just fine, the only problem was low oil pressure at idle and a very hard start.

There is a ball in the side of the high pressure oil pump that likes to fall out on those early model pumps. It is on the low pressure side of the oil pump and causes the oil pressure to fall low when it falls out. Only repair I know of is to replace the pump. If you remove the cover the ball is located on the rh side of the pump when looking at it in the engine. There will be a hole where the ball should be.

I also see temps over 10 degrees after cooler replacement. When you road test are you driving it in third gear wot? That is how I test the oil coolers. I have never seen one where ect and eot mirror each other. I drive them about 8 miles like that and it gives me a good idea how the oil cooler is operating. If it is plugged it will usually go above 15 degrees in the first few miles.

When the problem occurs does the theft light flash and is the odometer dashed out? I have been seeing alot of eec relays sticking lately.

I have always replaced oil coolers when I see this but I have been told that it is the orings that fail and cause it. I sell the cooler though because I do not want to take the chance of the orings not fixing it.

I would replace all 8 injectors also. These things are sludged for some reason. More than likely lack of oil changes killed them. I have seen a few of these and I cannot explain how one day these trucks start and the next they dont but I have seen it.