GregKneupper

To remove the rh valve cover just remove the lh motor mount and you will have plenty of room to get it out. The lh cover will come out without removing any mounts.

With the ids now every time that you hook up to a car on a computer with internet connection and run codes it automatically communicates that info through their website. If you run oasis after you have done that you will notice a vcm icon next to the vin even though you did not use quick start. The info is already there. You all may have noticed that when you retrieve codes there is now a pause before it displays the codes on the screen. That is the ids sending the info to the pts site.

That is dissapointing news.

Sorry Bruce but the starter did have to go back.

Seen it more than I would care to mention. More than likely when you remove the hose you will notice that where the hose connects to the front cover is pitted and discolored real bad. My guess also is that the thermostat housing will look the same also where the upper hose connects. When I get them in like this they get a new housing and a front cover.

I had a 2001 focus one time that a guy replaced all the coolant hoses and the pcv and crankcase hoses on it. After he did it he noticed that there was an exhaust smell in the cabin of the vehicle. I got it and started to check it out. Well I noticed that for some reason the breather hose that comes off the valve cover to the air box was instead running from the valve cover to the a/c drain on the a/c case. The fumes he was smelling was the crankcase fumes blowing into the case.

Check the fuse box under the dash for brake fluid contamination. The deactivation switches will leak on the master cylinder and will leak fluid all the way to the fuse box and cause weird issues like that.

Well the fix was the starter. I do not know why it acted the way it acted but the truck starts right up every time now. I will never forget this one.

All I use is a 10 mm wrench and a prybar against the back of the turbo. Has worked everytime so far.

Bruce, fuel pressure is good at 52 psi. Both fuel filters have been checked and are clean. I have scoped the crank signal while the concern happens and it looks clean to me. Although I do admit I do not have a lot of experience with the scope to know for absolutely sure. All I can tell you is that while it happens the pattern is not jagged or dropping out. I have hooked up an injector tool to check injector pulse and they are not receiving injector pulses. I have also pulled the oil pan and inspected the trigger wheel and there is nothing wrong with it. Now I know this concern is a strange concern. During the concern the rpm says 0, the ipr does not move and stays at 29.9%, and there is no injector pulse. This data tells me that there is no crank signal. If this was a high pressure oil leak the ipr would rise during cranking. It does not. If it was fuel pressure the icp and ipr should still rise during cranking. It does not. I am for sure that this thing has some strange crank sensor issue. The only last thing that I could think of as well was a starter. I guess I should just throw one on it and see what happens. Now I am quite sure that the cmp codes are caused by extended cranking. But the crank code reappears quickly and is the one that comes back the most and at times will not even clear, even after the engine is running.

I have inspected the harnesses multiple time and I cannot find anything wrong with them. The only add on that it has is a refrigeration unit and it is connected directly to the battery except for a control unit that is inside the cab. I cannot find anything wrong with any of it either. Nothing is spliced into anything that I can tell. I replace a ficm on it today per hotline and of course it did not fix anything. The fse will be here next week to look at it. Unfortunately I will not be here to look at it with him because I will be on vacation. I do not know where else to go with it. The funny thing on this truck is that it only does it after sitting about 20 minutes or so. If you drive it and shut it off just for a few minutes at a time it fires right up no problem. Also cold it has no problems. Just after a 20 minute or so soak. I do not understand why it does that. Any ways I am done with it at the moment. I guess I will find out what is wrong with it when I get back. Does anyone have any other advice or things to possibly check before I leave today? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

No luck on the pcm. I have been in contact with the hotline on this one and now they would like me to try an idm on it. I am not sure of anything anymore on this vehicle. I am now completely lost on it. It still does the exact same thing. Both cam and crank sensors have been replaced, the wire harness, and the pcm. Everything has been replaced. I get no crank signal at all but only after a hot soak of about 20 minutes. Nothing makes sense. I have an idm coming for it in the morning, but I do not think it will fix it.

Well I think I have diaged it as a bad pcm. I have a crank signal going to the pcm but the pid says 0 rpm. I have one coming for it in the morning. We will see.

I have heard that there have been reports of a few of those. But the thing is that once this truck does start it runs perfectly fine. It has plenty of power and never stalls or anything like that. It only has 58000 miles on it. I have not actually inspected it but I do not feel that is my problem. If it comes to it I will pull the pan and check it. The other issue is this truck does not fit in the shop and I am having to work on it in the parking lot.

I have a 2006 lcf that will have a very hard start when hot. It is not a high pressure oil leak. Everything has been torn apart and inspected just to make sure. It is losing a crank signal for some reason. I have tested all the harnesses and replace crank sensor with know good sensor. Sometimes it will start right up and other times it will crank for a good 15 to 20 seconds before it starts. While watching the rpm pid it will stay at 0 and then all the sudden it starts getting a signal. I am getting a 143, 145, 553, and 554 codes. The 143 keeps coming back the most. I am thinking that this thing has a bad wire harness but I cannot prove it. Does anyone else have any insight to this particular issue?

Also if you would like you can just remove the rh motor mount and let the engine rest on its own.

I have a good one here for you all. Customer brings in his 2008 F 250 with a 6.4 for the recall and a missfire. I repair the vehicle by replacing an injector, perform the recalls, change the oil, air, and fuel filters. Road test the truck all is great. The customer picks it up 4 days later. As soon as he leaves he brings it right back and complains that his traction control light is on and will not go off. I pull it back in and sure enough it will not turn off. I run codes and there are no codes in any module. Hmm I think, that sure is strange. So I diagnose the concern and determined the pcm is bad. I ordered one and install it the next day. I flash the pcm and bam, the damn light comes back on. I rediaged it and found the pcm to be bad again. The pcm grounds the light on the switch and it was grounding it for some reason. I contact the hotline and discuss the results of my testing with them. I wait a few minutes on hold and he comes back on and tells me he has figured out the problem. He proceeds to tell me that the truck was not equipped with traction control and was a misbuilt from the factory and by reflashing the pcm I put it back to the way it was supposed to be. This truck has 49000 miles on it I said. He took me through a few things to try to fix it with no luck. In the end I was told to order a new plate for the radio bezel that eliminated the switch. Needless to say, the guy is pissed.

I cannot tell you if it is actually using coolant or not. I do know that when it does start to overheat it blows coolant out the bottle he say. But there is not alot of tracer evidence around the bottle to suggest it happens all the time like we see on the 6.0. The fact that he did tell me it was low on coolant and could not find a leak tells me that it probably is using coolant. I pulled that radiator and the water pump off yesterday and the pump was good. I believe the radiator to be good as well as there was a temp difference from the top to bottom. I wanted to send it off and have it checked but the customer did not want to pay for it. I do not believe the radiator to be the cause anyways. He took it today. I do believe that it has an engine issue. I contacted the hotline and the guy that I was dealing with says that it is possible for an injector cup to crack and not put fuel in the cooling system. Either way the customer did not want to spend any money on the truck anyways.

Gotta say that I feel sorry for you guys. I have never seen a 6.0 like that. It is hot as hell here all the time but I guess it is worth it if I do not have to deal with shit like tht.

That is what I am thinking may be wrong with this truck. I drained a little coolant out of it and the only thing I got out of it was pure water. No green color to it at all. He told me it was low on coolant and added some to it. But the only thing in it is water. I think that they may have run it low on coolant and overheated it and then maybe added water to it at some time and now the engine is ruined. I am going to see in the morning if it builds pressure when the engine is cold. If it does I believe that will be a pretty good indicator that there is a major failure.

Was there always fuel in the coolant when this happened? I have seen quite a few 7.3 liters with cracked injector cups but there was always fuel in the coolant. There is no fuel in this one.

I have a 2001 7.3 with a complaint of overheating. The customer has already replaced 2 thermostats and put a fan clutch on it. The radiator is a few years old and the water pump is pumping. The customer removed the thermostat so it currently does not have one in it. I have not duplicated the overheating yet but there is some serious cooling system pressure that builds up in the cooling system after only a few blocks of hard driving. The hoses get rock hard. The temp at the t stat housing is only getting to 168 degrees so the engine is not overheating at this time. I feel that it has blown headgaskets or a cavitation problem. Has any one seen this before and how would I go about diagnosing the head gaskets. We have already tried a block tester and that showed nothing. Thanks for the help.

Did you check the map hose for a restriction?

Oh shit.

We had one here a while back that came in running rough and smoking realk bad. Was also low on coolant. After running relative compression it showed multiple cylinders low. We feared the worst of course. On tear down we found a broken rocker arm on number 2 cylinder. We contacted hotline and they said replace the rocker arm first and them perform manual compression on all cylinders. Well that was all the damn truck needed was one rocker arm. Put it on and all compression was good. Put it back together and performed another relative compression test and it passed. We could not believe one rocker arm was causing it to do what it did. Hotline informed us that they have been seeing this issue with the relative compression test on the 6.4.