nunan

I always saw people using south bend clutches and having good results, so it sort of threw me for a loop when I saw he only got three years out of it. I also think he's part of the problem, as he drives stick very oddly (got sick driving with him twice). so we'll see what happens. its got new hydraulics from the master to slave (one whole unit pre bled), now a new clutch and a freshly cut flywheel (which was worn unevenly from what my machinist told me). the old slave was installed so it wasnt pushing linearly, but more of a diagonal in terms of the clutch fork, so i think it was applying pressure to the clutch even when it shouldve been released for the majority of the time.

he did a clutch about 3 years back, and replaced it with a single mass. its a south bend clutch, and he's replacing it with the same one. Only got three years out of it, but the guy who did it before screwed up quite a few things (i've been fixing my drivers personal vehicles for a few months now, trying to fix what the other guy over looked or wasnt competent enough to notice) input shaft is fine, and i seperated the transfer case just to make installing it abit easier (on my back restling the whole assembly is more then i feel like dealin with) I'm having him take the flywheel to the brake place I deal with for work, and have them check it and cut it if needed.

okay, I had replaced all the hydraulics due to a poor pedal return, went down to the clutch fork to find out it was releasing all the way, allowing a lot of room for the fork to move (without the slave cylinder connected)I got the trans out and transfer case out in one piece, how can i tell the difference between a dual mass and single mass flywheel? I will check the input shaft, it seemed like it was fine but will look at it closer when i get back home. I used a swivel and didnt need to remvoe the downpipe, just left the bolt in there while i removed the trans. and his downpipe is rotted to hell (common theme on the truck, so if i remove it i'll either be welding a new ball flange assy to it (if i can find one) or replacing the pipe which I doubt he'll have the money for. On another note, what are you guys charging labor time to do this job? He's a driver of mine, and I dont want to over charge but want to make sure I'm not getting screwed either. Thanks a lot!

I'm doing a clutch job on a 4wd f250 with a 7.3, and just curious what you guys are charging for labor, and also if there are any quirks that I should know about goign into it. Thanks

Keith, I deal with Beyer Brothers at my shop on a weekly basis, they're a good company and the techs i've talked to over there seem to be happy. Congrats on the 25 yr anniversary. Through the good and the bad, you gained a shit ton of experience you get to pass on to greenies like Danny and myself. Hopefully all will be well at Warnock...Id hate to have to bring my buses to someone else when I cant figure them out lol.

even with the high side fluctuating at such a rapid pace it would be considered normal? i will check it at idle vs high rpm cooling. thanks!

thats what i was leaning towards, but figured id ask while i was around. Thanks

i'm having a problem with my 06 e450s, they're twins. With the proper amount of freon in both of them (5 3/4) as marked by the manufacturer, my pressures are all screwy. my high side on both of them is fluctuating tremendously, from 110-240, and my low side is steady at 50. it cools, but not well. i looked it up on the workshop manual, and i'm not really getting a definitive answer. from what it says, it could be overcharged (i recovered and pulled a vacuum for 30 minutes and let it sit for 15 just to be sure it was empty), the engine could be overheating (sitting at 190ish idling in shop), or inadequate condensor airflow (i have a carpet fan pointing directly at the condenser) the belt on both buses squeaks while idling. backround on the bus, its an e450 chasis cab with the school bus conversion, 6.0l diesel single alternator, with rear a/c but only one compressor and one condensor, uses the stock evap and also one up on the bulkhead as well. any help or direction would be great, thanks!

my buddy has a 2000 blazer with the 4.3 and the spider injectors. he had a leaking lower intake gasket, and i had never done one before so i figured i'd take on the challenge. pulled the motor apart, replaced the gaskets and got it back together. initially, i had timed it wrong (thats what i get for not using a compression gauge the first time, and relying on a buddy to help me), but i didnt realize at first it was timed wrong. so i was cranking it all together for probably a good 5 minutes (over the course of trying to figure out what was wrong). well the next day i pulled the distributor, timed it according to the chiltons manual, and fired it up...only problem is it ran like crap. sputtering and misfiring and just plain running rough. so i shut it off because it wreaked of fuel, and had a check engine light on. so i left it until today to check the codes, i got a p0135 for the b1s1 o2 sensor. went underneathe, didnt see any corrosion or burned wires. so i reset the code, and it did not return. i restarted the vehicle, and it had a stft b1 of 50%. so i shut the truck off immediately, as i did not want it pouring fuel down the exhaust pipes. here's a few things about it just to add on to my book i've got going: cap and rotor were replaced with intake change, wires were replaced 6 months ago (duracrap. the cap and rotor were bad, so i may have to replace the wires too) plenum gasket was changed with lower intakes. ive sprayed the area down with 2+2 to check for vacuum leaks, could not find any.also used propane as well to check. intake gaskets were torqued in sequence, but not with a good torque wrench (good one is at shop) so i may bring that home and retorque the intakes. not sure where else to look, may try to reset timing yet again, couldve sworn i had it right this time though. any other ideas what may cause this?

atleast its not leaking yet... oh well. time to go work on the t/a lol

hey guys, ive been fixing one of my school buses, an 05 e450 with the 6.0. my whole fiasco started with a hot start issue. i tried to diag it with my genisys, but it doesnt refresh fast enough to check the ICP while cranking. so i took it for a long test drive, and monitored it with the scan tool, to find out that my EOT/ECT had a 30 degree difference. great. so i brought it over to danny at my old dealership and he verified that it was a HPO leak. while he had it, i asked him to check the injectors. turns out 6 of them were weak or just flat out not contributing. okay, no problem. if its broken i have to fix it. so fast forward to today, after 8 injectors a HPOP fitting EGR/oil coolers and sitting almost 3 months working on and off on it (plowing the shop, plowing other schools, bus inspections, being on workmans comp for a week, and 2 holidays fell in during this time), i finally get it to fire up today. for the first 15 minutes she runs smooth as glass, idles nice and quiet and doesnt smoke at all. awesome. i go to rev it to 1500, and let off and she falls flat on her face and dies. crap. so i get it restarted, but its not happy trying to start. sounds horrible, eventually fires up ( i think i may still have air in the system, but dont have the fuel pressure tester to check pressure or bleed it out, so i just did key on key off about 30 times) and runs, but misses a little bit. eventually she smooths out. let it idle for about 20 minutes while checking for leaks, parts blowing through the block, etc etc. i hook up my scan tool and check some PIDs. EOT was at 205 and ECT was at 165, this was just idling after roughly a half hour combined. ICP was at desired and so was IPR, FICM voltages looked good. battery was a little weak from sitting, but had them on chargers for about 2 hours before hand (seperated). now at first i ran KOEO and it popped up with a cyl 8 contribution code, but i had heard the injectors cycle and none of them seemed weak (brand new). so i did the KOER, and it flagged the cyl 8. i cleared the code, did the KOER again and it didnt flag cyl 8. so now i'm confused. also, the LPFP sounds like its whining, so idk if i'm getting good fuel pressure to the heads or not. minus buying the tool for fuel pressure on the 6.0 (we dont have any budget right now) is there anyway to check it without the tool? i'm not opposed to bringing it to the dealer and having them check it out for me..as i'm at my whits end with this truck. sorry for the long post, just dont want to have so much time into this only to find out i screwed something up. so i guess all that background info leads to my question lol, what would cause the truck to mis on inital startup and while cranking, and throw a cyl 8 contribution code but than go away? got new filters, injectors, coolers, standpipes, oil rails (o ring grooves were pitted oddly enough) LOF, STC fitting.

Thanks bruce, the pictures helped out a lot! keith, i wanted to start workin on it early and i knew you guys werent comin in until 8 and wasnt sure if you were busy so i didnt want to bother you lol. i figured i bothered you enough with my questions on this bus lol

can anyone post a pic of the wiring harness around the fuel filter/turbo area on either a van or truck 6.0? its been a while since i took this truck apart, and i do not remember how the harness is routed. Thanks

well i got all of the pieces out, from what i can tell. spent an hour just searching to see if there was anything left, and i couldnt find anything. so i pray that there's nothing left and my day will continue to go swimmingly...time to order a pizza..

nah...they arent... well i borrowed a bore scope and was able to pinpoint the pieces i believe..so off the oil rail comes.

i am really not wanting to pull that fuckin oil rail off again, so i borrowed a bore scope from a buddy. hopefully the valve cover comes off without too much fuss. really regretting saying i'd do this job lol

hey guys, i'm doing 6.0l injectors on a school bus E series van. when i pulled out the injectors on the pass. side head, i did not notice that one of the connector clips broke and possibly fell into the head. I put the valve cover back on, moved on to the next head. i broke one but noticed it, and than thought if i mightve broke one in the other head. sure enough i did. my question to you guys is, do you think i'll be okay if its just in the head, will it eventually melt and not be a problem etc etc. or, will i start it up, let it run and end up having to replace the whole engine on it. reason i'm asking now is that i was able to rescue a piece of the clip when one on the drivers side broke and fell in. i would absolutely hate to pull that fuckin valve cover off again...but if its the difference between damage and smooth running, than i will do it. thanks

in this case, since he seemed to falsify paperwork. he got what he deserved. i know many mechanics who never double check themselves, and forget that people put their lives in our hands. with my school buses, if the paperwork doesnt match the drivers walkaround sheets, they fine us. luckily, i havent received any fines, but the previous guy had almost 10k in fines over the course of his 4 years as acting head mechanic. the fact that i have to constantly remind the other guys who work for me, that you should take pride in what you do for a few reasons always surprised me. i agree, lawyers can find a lot of things in paperwork. if you're taking the time to write it, you should take the time to do it as well. CYA

sorry, f350 dually if it matters. 05 or 06 (not sure off the top of my head)

Hey guys, i dont have access to a labor times guide anymore, I was wondering if you could tell me how much it would be for a 6.0l coolin fan clutch? Thanks

do the 06s and 04s have different cam profiles and different phaser positions?

yeah i'm definately shooting towards the stupid phaser solenoid..but i'll see what they say. he didntw ant to replace them with new units from ford, cost too much money supposively...

hopefully just as far as the shop thats workin on it lol. sucks trying to work on these trucks without an IDS..

where can u get the AE tool?

but either cam sensor will cause it to do the same thing..thats why i didnt think it was a chain issue. but i could def see a vct issue, idk. we sent it out to a shop who has the time to diagnose it and the guy is paying us just for the motor..so wonderful to eat all that time because of someone elses shortcuts. wheres a jasper motor when u need one..