nunan

http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-general-discussion/368307-im-done-with-this-car.html

it can be, but its a lot easier just droppin the cradle. he only had to remove a few things to drop it really. he had it out, back in and running in less than 9 or 10 hours or so. and that was with like 2 hours waitin on sealant. i watched him for some of it. real shitty idea if u ask me

try doing head gaskets on the 08 duracraps.. i waited for a month and a half for parts. that was before i quit...still dont know if they ever came in lol

Yeah, i ended up pulling the head and we're replacing it. i tried burning it out but it ended burning the head because the bolt was too deep in the head. the weird angle i had to use the torch at didnt help either. so i took my time today pulling the head off, got a new remanned head and tommorrow i'll slap it on. on a side note, the head bolts next to the exhaust manifold..almost as much of a bitch as the exhaust manifold bolts were

thanks guys. i'm down to that option..i was heating and cooling the bolt and was able to actually get it to shatter and was drilling it out..when the bit snapped inside the head. you cant make this stuff up. so now i'm trying to burn it out. whats even better is even with the torch on the hottest flame i can get, dead center one the bolt...is heating up the head faster than the bolt.. i'm gunna keep chuggin at it but i made sure to get approval for a new head just in case i screw up. thanks for ur suggestions

hey, i was wondering if anyones got any secrets or tips on how to get a snapped ez out out of a bolt thats broken off below the surface. its a 7.3 exhaust manifold bolt thats rotted solid in there. head was cherry red around bolt, and i used a 1/4" ratchet to get the extractor out. extractor is only 1/4" to a 1/2" at most deep in the bolt. thanks in advance

I agree. Idk, i havent been working in the ford field long. but out of school i worked an hourly shop, and got bitched at by the techs that worked there (old bitter men) that i worked too fast. Now working at a flat rate shop experiencing new and sometimes intriguing problems, i feel like i'm working too slow. Now, i know as time goes on i'll learn more and get faster at what i do. there was another post on here that i totally agree with, how entry level techs should follow the wsm and make their own decisions. i think for a real heavy diesel shop, hourly would be more of a safety thing than flat rate, but i've seen plenty of guys bust 70-80 hours workin on just diesel trucks. from what i've known and heard, warranty work always sucked. now ford's just makin it worse for us.

flat rate here

over an hour it lost about 1-2 psi. turned out to be a bad hose clamp, replaced it and held vacuum fine

hey all, i'm using my airlift on a 00 f550 and was just wondering if anyone knows what the specs are for a leak? like if it loses so many inches of vacuum over a certain period its a leak or not. thanks

lol thanks keith /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boxing.gif

thanks. i'm glad i have a breaker bar taller than my girlfriend. came inhandy for bending the pan so i could get it out lol. ah, gotta love leverage.

well it was a bad rod due to faulty new injectors. so ford rep came out,looked it over and approved of a new short block and 8 new injectors with the misc gaskets. put it all together, went to go plug in oil temp connector and BOOM. wrong oil pan on short block..never bothered to look at it. had a bitch of a time getting the old pan out, and swapping it from the engine with the shot rod. all is well now. runs great, shifts well and sounds nice and quiet. time will tell with these new injectors. i leak tested them before i put them in and they were fire. i also cleaned the fuel rail with about a can and a half of brake clean and blew it out real well with a blow gun, as well as cleaned the intake AGAIN. other than a few mishaps due to my own inexperience..wasnt too bad. definately learned a few lessons for the future to look at. thanks for your help

i agree. #7 piston's almost 7mm deeper in bore than the rest of the bank

alright guys, here's the scoop. 07 f350 came in with a stalling concern. could not get engine to turn over with starter or by hand goin either direction. pulled engine and found it had snapped a rod. pulled codes prior to engine removal and found #6,7,8 misfire codes and random misfire codes, and a couple others. rod snapped due to a hydrolock. replaced #8 injector, and performed another leak down test. #7 started leakin, so i replaced that as well.started it up and runs like crap. now, when above 1500, its makin a real high whining sound, like a bad bearing or something. also has a bad misfire as well sounds like its comin from the trans, but to be sure we removed the belt to make sure it wasnt an accessory. still there. now since the engine was locked ic ouldnt get that damn torque converter out, so we pulled it with the engine. maybe it was scored from pulling it, or was dry and it fucked somethin up? (advised from another tech not to worry about fillin torque converter) i've never had a torque converter that wasnt fully seated, but if it wasnt would it make a sound? clunkin or whinin? i'm at a loss fella's. any help asap would be appreciated. thanks