robp823

saga continues.Was driving the truck last night and cel came on.code 333.So its not the IPR.Going to get it hot and dead head pump tonight.Is it possible for injector o-rings to cause this issue bleeding off pressure?"

bobp823@aol.com please please!

If i pull all the fuses for the TBC module TBC fault goes away.The only thing that has me kind of baffled is that if i plug the fuses back in TBC fault comes back but the truck starts again.Im just wandering if it had pulled down the data link and by pulling the fuses i reset it.But that really doesnt make sense either because i was still able to communicate with my solus.

Thanks guys.O rings were ok on ipr.Put test Ipr in.Waiting to hear back.Will dead head pump if that doesnt fix it.

06 f-550 6.0 that i do work on for a friend.Called me up and said it would not crank but everything was powering up.TBC fault showing in the cluster.I know this is trailer brake controller.I pulled one of the fuses for it and truck fired right up.I dont work for ford anymore i work for International.But if i remember correctly wasnt there a TSB about this?

I have an DT466E model in a 4300 that my friend has been having issues with.Says the CEL comes on then it bogs down.Then all of a sudden the light goes out and it comes back to life.Everytime i hook up to it it has a 333 logged icp above or below desired.Ive driven it with my laptop hooked up watching ICP,IPR but i have never been able to get it to act up.Ive been through the whole harness,ohmed out ICP and IPR circuits,shook down the harness even load tested circuits with a headlamp and found no problems.I did replace the icp sensor because there was oil coming through the connector.The next day they used it he said it did the same thing again.I just finished installing a test ipr.Anybody ever run into this with an E model?I wish i could get it to act up to at least see what the ipricp is doing when it happens.

cutaways are nice.

i guess its time to inspect stc.

started out being a no start hot.Found rail dummy plugs o rings were bad.Replaced both dummy plugs and stand pipes with updated ones.Got running and started back up hot no problems.Thought problem was solved,no.Guy calls me up and says its doing it again.Go and get truck and drive it over to the shop.Started back up hot again.Pressure tested ICP system commanding ipr to 90 percent.No leaks heard.I started thinking possible ipr going bad.Installed test ipr.Drove it back to customers house.Shut it off.Tried refiring,nothing.Watching ICP it would only build 32 psi.Now I'm thinking the pump is on the way out.Before I condem a pump though I wanted your guys input.Is it possible for an stc fitting to cause intermittent no ICP?

nada dont have a compression adaptor.-5.03 sounds like an injector thats letting to much fuel go but could be wrong.A compression test would prolly be best.

You cant cut cylinders out on 6.0?I called them today and asked them and they said yes.Maybe there is a software update you need?

Anyone use this.Looks like a steal for all the Bi-directional controls plus power balance.http://www.autoenginuity.com/

Have and 03 duramax,no codes,has a white haze at idle and under heavy load has lots of black smoke.As you go through the rpm range it almost sounds like a lifter tap.The only thing i was able to do with the scan tool at hand was check the balance rates of the injectors.Cyl #8 was at -5.03.Im wandering if that lifter tap sound im hearing is actually a fuel knock.Anyone have expirience with duramax?

Sorry i didnt include that Per dels @ hot idle for cylinder 3 were 2% and cylinder 8 were 4%.I know i should prolly do a compresion test.I was thinking of grabbing some standyne and running a bottle through it.

Have an 01 f550.Its hard to get started and while trying to start just smokes white and smells like raw fuel.Once its started it misses bad.Once it hits operating temp the miss goes away and it hazes white at idle.When you romp on it in park it billows white/black smoke more white then clears as it goes through the rpm range.Still stinks like raw fuel.cold cylinder contribution test says 3 and 8 same hot.I was going to do a fuel pressure test for the hell of it.Some reason i thought 99-03 had a shrader valve on the filter housing ,guess i was wrong.Over 200,000 on the clock.My senses tell me just might be time for some injectors also thinking it could just be bad o-rings.Thoughts please??

thanks for all the input guys

thats little wire going to the relay powers everything on the truck???

Have a 96 f-250 and the customer wants battery disconnect switches installed.Anyone ever do this on a 7.3???Im really not sure how to go about it looking at the cables with some of the terminals and more than one cable or wire coming out.Any help appreciated.

hmmmmmm bent rod would make sense.the starting fluid would def cause that.Its a dump truck and they beat the hell out of it towing and usually overloading it.Also plowing.I looked at the front end of this thing and both front shackles were broken right off and the springs were sitting on the frame.The cooling jet was actually lodged in the screen of the pick up.Im just wandering if im wasting my time putting a new one in if its just gonna be broken right off again.I guess i could put one in and turn the engine over by hand and have someone watch for me then go from there.Thanks Jim

Doing an oil pan on a 95 f350 and found a piece of the cylinder #2 piston cooling jet in the pick up screen.It left 4 good punch marks in the bottom of the piston.I grabbed the rod and tried shaking it checking for play and it was tight.Cylinder wall looks good.Bottom of the piston isnt black like i thought it would be.The wrist pin is a little diffrent color than the rest.The only thing i can think of is i found a can of starting fluid sitting on the front seat.Any thoughts on what could have caused this???Should i replace the jet or will the piston just crack it off again.I dont know how critical it is on 7.3's with the piston cooling jets but i do know on CAT if that piston cooling jet is just a little bit off or gone your going to smoke a piston.

wow

They are fresh batteries

Well thats a good point.I didnt do that but with that fuse pulled the draw went all the way down to 0.004 amps.

Ok when i went back out there i never took my meter out of series and found it pulling 1.009 amps.When i wiggled around the lead that plugs into my meter for amps i noticed the amps fluctuate so there was another problem right there with my meter.Any way got that fixed.The first thing i did was unplug the alternator,the positive cable and all the connectors no change.Then i went back to square one pulling fuses leaving the fuses that i pulled out, out .The second fuse i pulled the draw went away down to 0.020 amps.It was for the door chime but i think there is other circuits on there.Gotta go to the EVTM i think.

Ok had the truck on a good long ride.About 2 hours.Did exactly what all of you guys said.Disconnected the Left side battery.Put my meter in line with the negatve cable and the negative terminal on the right side battery.Turned my meter to amps.After letting the truck sit for 5 minutes,I only had .020 amps.I opened the door just to make sure i was connected correctly and had a 1.50 to 2 amp draw.Shut the door and it went away.Now im puzzled.This morning i had a battery charger hooked up to it along with my 80 k2500 hooked up with it to get it going.It took a while as it is about 30 degrees where im at.I did notice that while i was trying to get it going that when you let the glow plugs cycle that seems to kill the batteries instantly.So instead of letting them cycle i just would turn the truck over and it seemed to crank normal and fast.Im going back outside now to test the glow plug relay.I also think im going to do a voltage drop on the starter cable for the hell of it.Mr. Warman i am pretty green in this field still and im not taking any of anyones comment as being a prick just soaking it all up.Again all the input from everyone is appreciated and this is a very good learning expirience.