Fordtechnician

"rubber flap" is flipped over on the regulator valve. I don't know what you mean by that. This was my "first" regulator rebuild I ever did. I took all the old pieces out and assembled the new ones the smae way. (If something was out of place when I took it apart, it went together the same way).

Only has 15 psi at 2ndry hsg. Replaced the regulator and it immediatly went up to 45. Road tested 20 miles and it puked. Only have low psi again. If I dead head the pump, it will produce 80+ psi. What gives?

I apologize to you for blaming your dealer. I operate the same way. I will not flat out deny anyones warranty. Ford will make the call. However……..If you have super swamper tires with a 30 degree driveline angle, and wipe a ujoint, I am darn well going to put in my vote to ax your warranty

Was it a red Duelly? First name Robert?

I had a customer break down in another state. His Motorcraft rebuilt transmission failed. The "Ford" dealer denied the warranty, took pictures of the chip, turbo, and exhaust system, and filed a CUDL. True, I personally think the increased perfomance wrecked the transmission, WHO pays? I am the customers local Ford dealer. I didn't install the transmission the first time. It was installed privatly. I probably would have warrantied the repair. Where in Banks warranty does it state it will cover stuff when it breaks?

So now if I understand this right.... Disconnecting the batteries will clear the KAM AND reset the fuel trim? Hotline also wants me to reset the fuel trim. I am asking because I am doing a short block for one that bent a rod from coolant injestion.

This is where your service manager needs to do his job. Get a cudl filed on this jerk. If he can't wait till you fix his truck, he is sure to drive it with problems. Such as if he gets a coolant leak, drive it till it hydralocks.

Well I finally got it torn down. Bent #8 rod. Blown horizontal egr cooler. Blown radiator. Hotline recomended a short block, doc, and dpf. Anyone have a parts list of the parts kits I'll need?

Are they all this difficult to bleed??? I am doing my first repair, any tips are appreciated.

I am doing my first cab off repair. "Yes, I am about ready to find a new career". Anyway, I am going after a left head removal. Do any of you have info / tips on what kits I am going to need? My symptoms were smokes white, Compression in #2-400, #4 & 6-375, #8-200. Also has engine noise, seemed like top end. Hotline suspects possible bent rod and not enough lift???? The radiator is leaking on the left tank as well. There is antifreeze thruout the intake and exhaust system. Was even dripping from the muffler! Hotline recomended a DOC and a DPF. I want to fix it right but don't want to over repair either. I have removed the intercooler and tilted it, that even had antifreeze in it. I sometimes wonder if I am dealing with a pile of junk.

Thank You!!!! You were dead on the money with the A/C compressor. I removed the belt and it was indeed seized (just the pulley). I started the truck and it ran fine. I am replacing the compressor.

Any thoughts as to what happened would be appreciated. By the way this is a 2003 with 250,000+ miles on it.

I got one of these with the exact same screen. I thought for sure the starter was fried. I checked both batteries and they are 100%. I replaced the starter with a "Motorcraft". Same V-e-r-y slow crank speed. Funny thing is if I crank it long enough it will run like crap at the speed the starter spins, but will not run above that and stops as soon as disengaging the starter. While it is running everything in the diag sheet you moniter is good, it should run. Yesterday I crawled under it and tried to turn it over by hand with my double box snap on wrench. I can't turn it!!!! This is the sam wrench I use to turn over others that run when I am removing torque conv nuts. Now thru the grapevine I found out this thing was driven "normally" to its delivery stop and was shut off. When restarted it started and something in the eng compartment cracked. "That is when the slow crank started and it wouldn't run. "They" unhooked the batteries to clean the terminals. Thus why I had no codes, thanks. Right now I am thinking jumped timing???? Something broke in engine??? It is not hydralocked.

Well instead of cleaning it I just replaced it. It was all scummed up. Owner stated it worked flawlessly for a week and a half. Its coming back for the same condition Monday.

So my problem could be right at the secondary filter hsg? Do these parts come with a head gasket kit? I think I saw them before. If so I have some because I never throw spare new stuff away.

Does anyone have the old gauge set issued with the 6.9 in 1983 and also have the 014-00761 gauge set? Is the 014-00761 really worth buying if I have the 6.9 set. I haven't had my Excursion back yet to do the restriction ttest yet, but am pretty sure there is probably nothing wrong with my gauges.

Is the 014-00761 really that much better of a fuel gauge? Like I said I have the OLD 6.9 issued set. I just ordered one from Rotunda. Should I cancel it? I remember I floored this thing in the shop and saw the psi go below 40 even. Its when I drove it that I saw the 10 psi.

I guess my biggest concern is to determine if my gauge is defective. This 2004 Excursion runs perfect on the level. When it comes to a mountain it will not go over 30 mph. Boost psi is up, just will not go faster like it is governed. I suspected fuel psi so I hooked up my gauge bar kit (issued with the 6.9). I always have to adapt it because I don't have the modern one listed in the manual. Anyway I had exactly 45 psi at idle in the shop. When I drive it and floor it it drops to less then 10 psi. Would this thing even run at all with that low of fuel psi??? Or is my gauge shot???

No, I didn't clean that.

Well I just got done smoke machining it and found no leaks. Hotline told me to do this. What next???? Turbo? VGT?? Cant do a turbo test cause it isn't in the software on 2003s.

I have an 03 with the same problem. Passed the egr test. Turbo learn was OK. Road tested with ids hooked up didn't see anything. Unplugged egr, ran perfect. Replaced EGR. Relearned turbo relearn, still does it. Help!!!!!

Early 2003 F250 6.0. Owners complaint was truck ran fine then started to loose power and eventualy stopped. Truck was towed to independant garage and they know JACK about diesels. Garage called me and told me it had a hard fault low ICP code engine running. I asked what the pressure and volts were. That was like talking to the wall. Anyway they bought a sensor from us, borrowed my socket and replaced it. I told him to be certain to check for oil leaking from the sensor into the harness. The changed it and said it had leaked oil. They test drove it and it broke down again (gee). Crank no start (hot). Now one of my techs scanned it, it started up when cold and ran but missed like *rap. Had a ICP low running code again and multiple injector codes. Icp psi is normal according to the ids. Didn't check the volts. Do I have a failing injector causing this? Is the oil in the icp wire harness causing this. This tk has a long warranty history of ICP problems, multiple ingectors. When I glanced at the coolant tank, it was check round full and blackish. Probably blown oil cooler. Owner picked up the missing truck and drove it home. I don't have time to get at it right now, to busy with others. They are bringing it back again later.

No codes present. It IS chipped with a banks system. It also has a oversized intercooler, ductwork etc. Can't find a jakebrake. Would just love if a fse walked in.

I have one coming in today, it supposedly has 2 ebp codes. They claim while going down a mountain and on the brakes the turbo will spool up. (This makes the truck go even faster). They also see increased boost psi on the gauge! What am I going to look for. I never heard of something like this. Am I going to find it is chipped or has a jake brake?

You mention head gasket failures...........Of the three I have done. All three are used / worked very hard. None of them are pleasure tks.