Fordtechnician

I found the STC fitting had indeed let go. I temporly installed the new rear cover without the oil pump or stc fitting installed. Lots of clearance on the branch tube! I then installed the pump, stc fitting and kit. My clearance disapeared. I took the cover off again and loosened the hp pump bolts a turn or two. I used my BFH and adjusted the branch tube a little. I tightened everything and I have a little clearance now, not near as much as without the pump or kit installed. I will let you know if it runs. By the way the hotline email situation sucks. I sent in 2 requests so far just for their thoughts. 36 hrs have passed and not a *^%$# response.

I know this topic was discussed before but I didn't find the info / opinion I was looking for. I have one here that the cover cracked because the branch tube / stc fitting rubbed against it. I don't have the HP oil pump cover removed yet so I don't know if the stc fitting is coming apart. I have intentions of installing the stc bracket repair kit. Is this going to fix the contact froblem or am I going to have to replace the #@#@^&*^&(*%ing branch tube also. PS.......This truck drove in and had no driveability problems so the fitting shouldn't be leaking now.

You can call the phone number on the back of the card and get balance info, when money gets put on it, transactions etc., etc. The cards are way better then waiting on the snail mail to get delivered to the dealer. Then the dealer most likely sticking the entire check in his own pocket.

Anyone here have a cracked head on one of these yet? I have a 2003 F550 with 150k on the odometer here. It came to me with the fact that they couldn't keep coolant in it anymore. I suspected head gasket right away. From a cold start and moving it 75 feet there was tremendous pressure build up in the coolant tank. I didn't even do any tests according to the tsb, ie oil cooler - egr cooler. I lifted the cab and removed both heads. The left head is cracked! The right head measures .003 per the entire length. Should I replace both heads? Should I install a new egr cooler and a oil cooler while I have it apart? This is a early 2003 with a round egr cooler. This truck has a long trail of warranty history at another BIG FORD DEALER such as many fuel injectors, turbos, y-pipes etc. There are numerous bolts and nuts missing. Stuff routed wrong etc. I would hope if I did crap work like this, someone would fire me.

I did speek to the hotline last week about turbo sticking p0299 codes and unable to duplicate concern. They stated in the near future we WILL be taking these apart and cleaning them ourselves.

Can someone post the part number(s) for the cam sensor seal? Yesterday I was all set to change the seal on one when the parts man came running out and said "I only have one of the two seals for it!" Also while we are at it, What is the crank sensor seal number?

I replaCED THE TURBO, PROBLEM SOLVED.

Quote: funny thing is that i have only done one 6 litre repair in the 6 months i have been employed there. he reviewed the one and only claim and only found one hose clamp to question as an overrepair. You mean to say your dealer has only one 6 litre claim in 6 months? If you have personally done only 1 and there are more then 6, taht means someone is useing your ID to get claims paid! Thats when you need to go down on the dealer! If its the other way ariound, I would go after Ford!

I got information, but not what I was expecting to see. I see so far most shops charge the same labor rate.

This guy is a firm believer in motorcraft additive.. He has it figured out that he spends $2.00 woth of product every tank full and saves $20.00. Impressive.

What does shutting it off and restarting it have to do with it?

My shop......I make the same per hr working on a gas engine or diesel. The customer pays the same if they have a Yugo or a F550. This is a HUGE benefit to the customer. Just think.......You go to the indy shop, they might charge $10.00 an hour less. Do they have the diesel tools? NO Are they trained to work on them? NO I recently worked on an older 7.3 that had a missfire. The after market shop threw 8 yes EIGHT injectors at it! It still missed!!! His bill was $3100.00! Now he brought it to the dealer. My bill was about $100.00. I installed an under valve cover harness reinforcement clip. Poor owner NEVER needed injectors ! And dealers are still rippoffs????

I had this truck in about 600 miles ago, 3 wks. When the no boost situation came about, you could shut the truck off and restart it and the turbo worked. After testing, I ended up replaceing the VGT. It worked fine. Owner came in yesterday, same thing. I have read about turbo units for trucks that don't get driven a lot. Do I want one of these? What is the part number? Or am I barking up the wrong tree? The new Ford parts catalog only lists one turbo for this truck.

What do the rest of you charge per hour over the normal shop rate?

I should also add........I rode this bucking situation out more then once just to see if it would cure itself. Beyond getting whiplash for the 150 to 300 rpms it needs to increase, once it got higher it went away like magic. I am going to try to draw a picture of what this looks like. RPMs 1000--1100--1200--1300--1400--1500--1600--1700 ______________________________________________ 1750--1800--1850--1900--1950--2000--2100--2200 ______^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^__________________________ Picture key ^^^^^^means buck ______means running normal. Like I said before, you must be at nearly 100% load, 100% ap, and in the ^^^^^^rpm area to duplicate the problem. I personally don't feel you are lugging the engine at the above rpms. Also shutting this truck off and restarting it will not change the problem. I would post my contact #'s but are you a Ford cop? In addition toi being the diesel tech, I am also the Service manager. I do know I am NOT allowed to try any other repair attempts to this. Doing so will admit there is a problem after the FSE from Ford has determined there is not. I know there is a problem, the owner of the truck does, and all of the diesel techs that can decipher my post know it. If the owner chooses to go thru the dispute settlement board and I keep attempting repairs he would surely win. However, he told me he will not. I have till Wed next week to find a solution or there WILL be a chevy in his lot!

Hotline was called many times. They also were sent wds recordings. Fse also took recordings and sent them as well.

Help. I have a 2005 F350 with a 6.0 and 6spd manual trans I have been working on for months. It has a very bad buck on a hard pull. If you take this truck to a mountain and try to climb it this is when it will start its fit. You can be climbing tih mountain in say 3rd gear and be tached up to 2800 to 3000 rpm or more under 100% load & AP position. If you shift to 4th gear naturally the rpms are going to drop as it falls into the next gear. When the rpms drop down to say 1200 at full load full AP it is pulling perfect. As the RPMs start climbing and you hit near the 1800 rpm mark it starts bucking that bad you need to back off the throttle or shift back down. Anything to change the load or AP or rpm. So far we have checked fuel psi, good. Ran truck with the following unplugged (one at a time). ICP, EGR, EBP, 4 injectors on a side at a time. I replaced the oil check valves in both heads. We have reflashed the pcm with the new Feb. TSB. After all this and the #?? repair visit the FSE has determined it to be normal. You have got to be kidding me! The owner said he will NOT accept this. He will go get a Chevy next. I don't really want to tackle any more repair attempts because I am already above the /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/readthis.gif (lemon law)max of three repair attempts. Is this normal? International are you listening?

The bad part.......It is still derived out of a 6.0.

A few things I heard.......Engine work / removal WILL have two seperate labor choices. Cab lift or over the fender. Acess to body bolts improved. Quick disconnects on the brake lines, etc. The reason for the two is some shops have no space or equipment to do a cab lift. Also some body applications prevent that. Second.....It is currently in Alaska doing cold weather testing. Third......A new generation pcm system. It WILL tell the technicion if some one has chipped/reprogrammed it or removed a chip. I also spoke to a CAT tech and he said they had the twin turbo setup yrs ago. It had troubles for them. They are useing the VGT setup now and he was impressed with that.

Well, I got the water out, most of it. I left the ICP unplugged and the glow plug relay off hopeing it wouldn't start till I pushed out the water. The darn thing started! How? I have the exhaust manifolds loose yet so all the water blows out. Guess I am learning every day.

Will it never go in # 1 or 3?

Doing my first EGR cooler. Bless me, I am already beyond the slts time and I didn't even put it back together yet! I also have it hydralocked. I think it is on #5? It ran when I brought it in. It hydralocked when I did the pressure test with the rear jacked up.

I have a couple 2004's I service that have oil that blows up on the inside of the hood at the rear. So far no one has complained. I haven't investigated nor saw any ssms about it. Any ideas?

If that is the case......That is a big ripoff. Let me explain.... I am from a very small dealership in PA. We employ a total of 6 people (working on the 7th). My job- I am registered as a Service Manager in Stars. I also do all other in shop repairs except auto trans. I am certified in all of them except (37) auto trans. I am also the Warranty administrator. My other tech does everything except diesel repairs, only certified in brakes, auto trans, climate control, and electrical...yet. There is a secretary, there is a parts manager / service advisor, a shop cleanup / car prep guy, and the DP / Salesman. Now you see what a big ripoff I am talking about. Guess I'll never see the $50.00 even though I am the certified diesel tech and do ALL the repairs to them.

I didn't see my $50.00 yet. I guess thats another thing I will never see!