BLittle500

Current money pit: Got bit by the racing bug at a young age, only 24 now so I'm still young, but the older I get, the more my toy's cost :-(

Hey guys, I know that monday I have an 01 Excursion coming in for an oil pan. Service writer said 15 hours and I had to pull the engine, it's no shocker if I do have to pull the engine, just curious if anyone has done these before? Any tips? Thanks in advance guys, Brandon

Uhhh, this one's getting ugly. Ford wants us to fill out the paperwork for voiding this guys warranty. Not sure what all is going to happen now :-/

Dave, Injector tip and glow plug both are fine. Keith, I'll get some pics of the head tomorrow, but she's all messed up. Both intake valves took a whoopin, and when I cleaned the piston up a little today, you can see where both intake valves smashed into the piston. It appears that the piece spent some time in between the intake valves and head, but the strange thing is, it has it on both intake valves. FSE came out today, determined that the piece is "undetermined". I'm supposed to put a piston, rod, push rods, and a head on the left bank. Pulled the right head to inspect for further damage, had blown out head gasket on the right head so once I measure the flatness I'll probably end up putting a head on that side as well.

I'm checking the cat tomorrow. The odd thing is that it just looks like it was the tip of a bolt, but we cant find where any bolts had broken that could have been after the CAC. You guys think that it could have been sent through the CAC?

Dug the debris out of the piston, it looks like its the end of a bolt. The last time this truck was apart was 7/9/09 for an EGR cooler, cant see how it would have lasted that long if something was dropped in the intake.

Anyone have any ideas?

I found a piece of metal that has smashed around like no ones business. The piston has two decent chunks out of it, the head is all beat up and has 2 bent exhaust valves. Once I get a chance, I'll put a picture up.

Dave, Oil didnt seem bad, nor was it over full. I did have 10% loss on relative compression on Cyl 8 though, and 2% on 5 as well. The head will be off pretty early tomorrow, just hoping to find something obvious. Thanks for the input, Brandon

Got a truck towed in, customer states that truck ran fine, sat over night, then when he went to start it in the morning it started "strange", ran like crap and kept gettting worse. I drove the truck into the shop, sounded terrible. Anyway, I ended up with 0PSI compression in #6, and the rest had 370-420PSI. Popped the injector out to check the copper and it was ok. One of the fuel screens is missing on the injector and when you hold the injector in your hand, it'll leak fuel out of the tip. I think the injector stuck, filled the cyl when the truck was shut of and bent a rod in the morning. The service manager is all worried about warranty, and isnt second guessing me, but just wants to know what all you guys have run into. Just looking for some input here guys. Thanks again, Brandon BTW, relative compression only showed Cyl 6 14% below the other cyls.

Keith, had followed that SSM yesterday, and also did the paramerter reset. Guess I should have mentioned that, eh? Thanks again for the info

Hey guys, Got an 08 in, no crank/no start with codes for ECT_13, KOEO it reads like 1400*. I dont have the truck in front of me, I was just flipping back through some older posts and it seems that a no crank/no start with ECT_13 is kind of common. Not sure when I'm going to get back on this truck, but am I probably looking at just a sensor? Havnt had any of these before and was just curious if a sensor could cause the no crank. Thanks in advance, Brandon

I cant vouch for performance gains, but I have put one of the "hot" FICM's in a cash job just because the customer wanted to save some money and we have had luck with Swamp's products in the past. Worked fine and hasnt been back, in a stock truck though. Like I said, no astonishing results, but nothing bad to say either.

Any experienced guys have any tips on doing this (this is the pancaked bastard)? I have to replace manifold bolts and the down pipe, just curious if the trans really has to be dropped or if I can just finnagle that bastard out of there. Thanks again guys, Brandon

Well, there's two classes that run the same cars, one with the 305/crate 350's, and the other class' only engine rule is steel block LOL. I want to run in the cheaper class but I wont know what I'm running until I get the 305's apart that come with these cars (I'm sure after buying these cars and telling her that I need to buy another engine when I just bought 3 with the cars, she wont be a happy camper). The crate engine we're allowed to run is the GM "602" I can dig up the whole part number but I know that they just signify the engines by the last 3 of the p/n. The engines in the 305/350 class all need to be sealed by the division so cheating isn't going to be as much of an issue. The class I ran in last year was supposed to be pretty much a true "stock" car, but when I started racing that class 4 years ago the camaro's with 350's were whipping everyone's ass, after a year of that my 4.6 kept getting healthier and healthier LOL, and it just got to be to much. So hopefully this new class doesnt turn out the same.

Aaron, I just sold my "V8 Strictly Stock", which unfortuniatly was anything but stock. I'm getting into "classic cars", they run GM metric chassis with either a built 305 or a crate 350, both engines are sealed. What do you run, and how'd the wife like the roller? hahaha

Selling a race car, buying a new one in a different (faster of course) class. She's gonna be thrilled ;-)

ugh, waiting on the old lady to get home so I can spring on her the news that she has been waiting for. I have finally sold enough of my "useless" stuff to pay for something bigger and better that I'm sure she will deem even more "useless". Women, whats they're deal, and why are they against horsepower?

Dave, the trans tech had me look at that when he first started to suspect this thing as having a trans problem.

Yea, I used the one thats one piece (just double checked the number with the shop manual just to be safe), I have another one in the box of diesel goodies that looks like it has a rad cap adaptor, is that the one for the 7.3?

From Ford tech line: Quote: Also if possible, determine if head gaskets or any other repairs have been performed with the heads off. Similar complaints have been seen from injector tip damage, if the injectors were not removed form the head before it was placed on the work bench. They also said about dropping the cat, even though I performed the back pressure test just to verify. Looks like we're making some noise tomorrow

Bruce, The truck came back into our shop, it is actually the other shops truck that they are trying to sell on their lot. As far as IDS tests go, I ran Relative Compression, Power Balance, VVT Test, Boost Test, KOEO, KOEO Inj Elec self test, KOER, but did not run the EGR test due to the delete (the valve is still in there though). mchan68, after road testing again I did check the brakes for abnormal heat and felt nothing, but I am planning on checking them tomorrow once I get it in the shop and put it up on a lift. I have checked oil level and consistancy on this thing, but there was a NAPA filter stuffed under the ford cap when originally brought in so I put a Ford filter in right away but caused no change in the trucks running. Our transmission guy swears and declares that this is a transmission problem and that they got a junk unit and put in it.

Truck came back in today after the first shop installed a "used" unit. Same problem.

I dunno, he dropped the pan, reported his findings and was told to "put that hunk of shit out side" hahaha thanks again guys, Brandon

Transmission guy got this truck in, found a his pressures were way off. Dropped the pan found a ton of metal in there. Other shop is taking truck back to work on it. Thanks for the insight guys! Brandon