BLittle500

Bruce, the RPM was fine while cranking, right around 200 RPM, and I had the chargers on it just to be sure. Dropped a line to the hotline after posting on here, they said to throw an ICP at it, low and behold it starts every time. Who'd a thunk it?

While cranking I have FICM Sync, but no Sync sound right?

Brought truck in for no power, clogged/stuck EGR valve, no big deal. Road tested the truck, ran good, brought it back and shut it down. I went to re start it just to check and it would just crank but no start. I hooked up the fuel pressure tester and that checked out. Then after a few attempts it would try to kick off while cranking, and it would do like a "rolling start". So I drove it back into the shop, hooked up the battery chargers and started checking things. My FICM voltages are showing good on the IDS. I tried to run the KOEO Inj Elec Self Test, and just came up "Fail-PCM". Any thoughts guys, Thanks, Brandon

Aww crap, I though "wow, finally a way to get those bitches off". Oh well, thanks for the input guys, Brandon

www.duallybuddy.com Anyone use this thing? Just curious to see if it works or not. I'm sure there's other tools out there like it, just looking for a good one.

Yea, suprisingly it did have the DPF/Cat on it, just a DPF back system (which is kind of stupid IMO, but thats me)

Got it guys, Just on a hunch I re-programed PCM (after pulling the edge stuff out) and it fired right up. EDGE told me that they have been having "some" trouble with this problem. Thanks guys

Called Edge, they had me disconnect the system at the PCM and at the VTG, and where they have the wires into the fuse box. Pulled that crap out and still no crank. I'm heading out to check the basics now (like power to the starter)

Have a guy traveling, got towed in, no crank. No codes in this thing, it has an edge display on the dash and they said they tried to take it back to stock.....FUCK ME. Ran oasis, found some messages on connectors and chaffing, gonna check that stuff. Just lookin for some insight here guys, thanks again, brandon

Thanks guys, Wasnt to terrible, just had a little trouble getting the new hose to slide back on to the adapter.

Found one leaking today, just curious if anyone has done these without pulling the whole intake? Looks like pulling the intake is the only option though. Just checking, Thanks in advance, Brandon

Our last diesel tech had coolant problems with an '05 6.0, the truck was bought back by ford and they followed up with telling us that there was a hole in one of the cylinder walls.

Hey guys, Truck comes in, if the MIL light is on the truck wont come off idle. Once the MIL is off the truck is fine. Only code in this thing is a P0221. Went through the PC/ED but I'm not quite clear on the PIDs they want me to check. They are looking for ETC voltage and ETC state, are the PIDs going to be APP volt and IVS (idle/off idle)? If that's the case, the PPT are telling me to clear the codes and if it comes back to put a PCM in it. Have you guys done any PCM's for pedal concerns, or should I reccomend the customer put a pedal in it first? Thanks again guys, Brandon

Keith, I'm heading to Exton PA for my training.

Got pulled off to work on a gas truck, sucks. I'll tell my advisor about it, but I'm going to 6.4 school the next 3 days and I'm off till tuesday so I probably wont get back on this thing untill then. Hopefully I'll have time to get a fuel pressure test in on this thing.

Hey guys, Cust brings his truck in for missing/running rough, and smoking. This has been a problem truck. On the road test, it started out fine then it seemed to drop an injector. Smoking badly (thick black smoke), and knocking hard. Running through the test the truck was beginning to hydro-lock when I would go to start it. Went through the tests, #5 injector failed electrical injector test. It had a real weak click the first time, then nothing the last two times. Replaced the injector, and took it out on a road test. Seemed fine for a bit, then back to the same stuff. Brought it back into the shop, shut it off and got the IDS. No codes sitting in this thing, went to do a KOER but the engine wouldnt crank. Waited a bit and got it to fire off, no codes again. Did a relative compression test and it showed #4 was down 13% and #5 was down 6%, all the rest were okay. Running a power balance, #7 was real high, and the rest were right in line. I dont really know if those last two tests will show you guys anything, just ran them to see if something stood out. Any ideas guys? Maybe this thing needs an IDM, but usually when an injector fails and I replace it, if the IDM is bad it'll throw codes for all 8 injectors on the next road test. Thanks again for your help guys, Brandon

Got the turbo off, no oil leaking up around there, I think I have an issue with my HPOP cover/gasket. I put dye in the system, and just cant see oil coming from anywhere other than the cover. I'm going to pull it off again, put a new gasket in, and re-torque the bolts. Thanks again guys, Brandon

Hmmm, still leaking oil. I replaced the rear engine cover gasket, along with the rear crank seal (just going by the book). It looks like its coming from the driver side of the HPOP cover. Guess its back off with the turbo and other junk to check it out. Just no luck lately.

Boy does it ever. When I got the oil pump cover off, there was a good bit of spaghetti gasket sticking through. Being new to diesels, I showed my shop foreman. He said to try bolting up the cover. It wouldnt bolt up. He said cut the gasket flush. Now the trans is out and my new gaskets are coming tomarrow I love learning on the job. Thanks again for all of the tips guys, Brandon

Yep it is an F-Series. I got it out Now I just have to replace the STC fitting, followed the instructions to a T but when I torque the new fitting down it pulls the plastic holding thing and twists a little, is that normal?

I got those bolts out of the sheild, but now I cant get that cover out of there to save my ass. I can wiggle and jiggle it, just cant get it to come out. Any tips?

Do I really have to remove the up pipe to get that damn shield off of the HPOP cover?

Yea, that^ Make sure that you pull the left side valve cover first though, that way you can have them both off at the same time. I doubt the left side valve cover will come off with the LH motor mount out.

Sure enough, I smoked the system today and the flex pipe on the left side is leaking like a siv. If the cust wants it fixed I may just try pulling the trans. Thanks again guys, Brandon

EastEnd, thats EXACTLY what I was thinking, but I didnt think it was a (for lack of a better term) common problem. It looked like the smoke started pouring from the Y-pipe, but I though, naaaaaaa cant be. I'm going to pull the turbo tomorrow and get that Y pipe off of there and check it out. I'm off thursday and friday, and there is no other diesel tech's in our shop so the guy isnt expecting it until some time next week anyway. Thanks for the info! Brandon