BLittle500

Just found that TSB, I got pulled off to throw a FICM on another truck so first thing tomarrow I'll smoke test it. Sorry for the dumb questions, still just getting my feet wet in these things. Thanks for the quick reply! Brandon

Hey guys, Have a cust that has a truck that smokes like a bitch, but he's not complaining of that. Somewhere under the hood there is exhaust leaking, and its that bad that exhaust is coming out of the heater vents. I cant pinpoint the leak, and I have already dropped the down pipe, re-torqued the up pipe clamps and the down pipe clamp. Anyone run into anything like this before? Thanks for any help guys, Brandon

I got it out by sneaking the torch back in there and heating up the boss. It actually was pretty easy once I got the mirror positioned in the right spot. It was all down hill after that though, I couldn't get the coolant tube out of the front cover and one guy said "just try getting a punch in there and hitting up on the tube", well now I have a front cover coming for today as well. Thanks for all of your tips guys, Brandon

Pulling the turbo off of this turd, my first early '03 turbo I've had off, so you know whats coming. How the hell to I get that damned rear turbo bolt out? I can get on it with a twist socket and my 3/8 ratchet that is in a 1/4 inch ratchet body, but I cant get that bastard to break loose.

Got a truck in today, runs rough and gets worse when warm. It was a gallon low on coolant, so I topped it off. I road tested this thing and it just kept getting worse and worse, then ground to a hault. Shut it off, started right up and ran like a raped ape. Sounds to me like a fuel issue. While on the road test, I happened to see that EOT and ECT were 28* appart, which I belive is still out of spec. Could a blown oil cooler have anything to do with this driveablility, or is this just another unseen concern by the customer? This thing is piped up and I assume chiped, it ran good after it shut off and it was making all kinds of black smoke when I had it matted. I brought it back after the road test and ran the EGR test, it passed all but the last test, where the MAF failed. While idling after the road test, it was making a decent amount of white smoke. Any ideas guys? Thanks again, Brandon

Thats what I ended up doing. Turns out our old diesel guy had put oil rails on this truck before. I thought they looked rounded out before I started, but didnt pay any attention. Perhaps things like that are the reason he's the "old tech". Thanks for the info, Brandon

Plopping a #5 injector in a truck and I cant get the damned oil rail off of this thing. The two lower back bolts are rounding out and I cant get squat in there. Any tips guys? Thanks again, Brandon

I thought that to pull the right side apart, you only needed to pull out the left hand motor mount and drop the engine onto the cross member on that side? I was only searching for a HP oil leak when I did mine, maybe the injectors still dont have enough room to do it this way. I couldn't find the lift plates when I did mine so I just found some poor bastard bolts to lift on.

Well, its up! Now its off to the book to pull my first heads. Thanks for all the info guys, Brandon

I'm at Family Ford in Carlisle, were a good bit apart (I think). Scranton is way up North West isn't it? Torquing the heads is the reason the guy before me would pull the cab, so I just figured if it worked for him, why not. Thanks for the tip, Brandon

Thanks east end, may have to cover my butt on this one..... I'll talk to the S/A on monday about this. Thanks for the reference, Brandon

Bruce, Cool, where are you training at? I have a pump and the o-ring kit coming for this thing, hopefully I can get to it before pulling a cab on Monday. Thanks again, Brandon

Hey guys, 2004 F-250 Crew Cab I knew it was going to happen sooner or later, last week I diag'd a truck for head gaskets per a TSB. So the truck is supposed to come in Monday to get tore down. Anything I should be aware of on pulling my first cab? Is there actually a Ford procedure for pulling a cab? Thanks for the info, Brandon

Bruce, The O-Ring for the brass cap at the bottom of the regulator is torn, does that kit include that O-Ring? I really didnt find much in the regulator. The last time it was in, it had a new little screen put in it due to being clogged and being blown apart. I actually still ahve the old piece and looking back at it, it looks to be fibers. The truck is a construction truck for a large company, and they do their own maintnece and it does have an after market fuel filter in it. Thanks again Bruce, I'll let you know what I come up with, Brandon

Typed that up while going through the preliminary checks. Got to sypmtom chart 10, checked fuel pressure, bouncing back and forth at idle between 50-60psi. Then at WOT it just keeps dropping, sometimes the whole way to 0PSI (when she's smoking and shakin). Getting ready to tear off the regulator now. Thanks Bruce, Brandon

Got a 97 7.3 in, starts up fine, drives fine for a little bit, then it starts to smoke like crazy (white/light blue smoke)and just gradually loose power untill it finally grinds to a hault. Shut it off for a few seconds, it fires right back up and drives fine for a mile or so, then the same thing. I cant get this thing to do it in the shop, but I can get it to do it on the road pretty much whenever. About 2 months ago there was an IDM put in it, they said it ran fine up untill the other day. Could it be a shorted out injecter taking out the IDM? Thanks for your advice in advance guys, Brandon

Hey guys, Pulled in two 06's both with no power, the first one had a code for underboost, and was no big deal. I went through the TSB and the truck ended up failing the VVT test. Pulled the turbo off and the unison ring was tight on the center housing. The second one had no codes, but going through the diagnosis, I followed the same TSB, and this one also failed the VVT test. The graph appeared much worse than the first truck's, but when I got the turbo off, the unison ring wasnt near as tight on the housing. Would I still be heading down the right track on the second truck with getting a center housing, or is there something else I should be looking at? Thanks again for all the help so far guys, Brandon

I wont be back on this truck until Tuesday, 4 day weekend, yay! Bruce, I'd have to check for the cylinder shorting box, to be honest, I have no idea if we do have it or not. This thing only has a rough idle, that's the customers only concern. The MFDES only goes nuts when its idling rough, which like you said is just a result of the rough idle. I'll have to double check the IPR % at hot idle. I'll let you guys know what I find, Thanks again, Brandon

Changed oil, but it didnt seem to help at all. Remember I'm new at this stuff guys, so here's what I saw. ICP bounces around a little at idle between 450-530psi, IPR stays steady. When it really acts up the MFDES bounces all over the place, but it is calm when the truck isnt acting up (could this just be a result of the bucking, or a cause?) No continuous codes, no KOER codes, and nothing came up in a contribution test. Well, off to the diagnostic sheet! Brandon

Finally got this thing back in today, took it for a road test and it definatly idles rough when warm. Pulled the dipstick out to check oil, and it was covered in air bubbles. I'm going to change the oil and see where that gets me.

Just out of curiosity, how long does it take most of you guys to pull valve covers and test and Econoline? I did it by the book, and this thing is taking for ever to come apart/test/and put back together. Thanks again for all the tips guys, Brandon

Thanks again guys, I have all the stuff coming for tomorrow morning. I have the STC update coming, the updated turbo drain tube, and some D rings to replace the ones I used up today. Took this pic with my phone, kind of hard to see the front one though. The far one the D ring is completely torn, the front one had the D ring kind of rolled under: I checked back over everything, especially when I have went this far in an E-Series, I dont want to go back for a while LOL. Thanks again guys, Brandon

Finally, Just like Aaron said, both dummy plugs had messed up D rings. I wheeled the test plugs in and now I only have a little bit of air passing at the pump, which is apparently normal. Thanks again guys, Brandon

Ok guys, I put an IPR in it this morning, and when I ramp up the IPR duty cycle, still nothing changes. I already have the valve covers off of this pig, but the more I listen to it, the more I think its the STC fitting. I wouldnt have thought they would have problems with the STC fittings on the '07s. Oh well,I'll keep digging. Thanks for all of the advice so far guys, Brandon

Tony, I heard it with the stethoscope at each valve cover. I really didn't hear much, if anything by the High Pressure Oil Pump. Could the air just be pumping back through the crank case? The IPR's you had with the hole, is this something I could visually inspect for, or is it some where I cant see? I used the IDS to run up the duty cycle, it would only let me go to like 92% (or around there). It said in the TSB about the 2 minutes so I made sure to follow that. Thanks again for the input, and helping a rookie along the way, Brandon