Clark

Definitely sounds like you're not getting power to the TCM or possibly TCM failure. The 1000/2000 will get reverse and third with no power. You said it!

Walked into work yesterday afternoon and found a shop full of particularly cool stuff. First bay, and old, and I mean old, Case tractor with a 3 cylinder supercharged 2 stroke. Bay 2, a V16 Cat generator engine. One of 2 from the local water treatment plant, that burns the methane and makes power for the city. Weve overhauled each of them a couple times. I guess there's a chemical used in the treatment process that stays in the methane and eats up rings and valves. Bay 3, a Deutz powered tunnel boring machine. Not a huge one, but pretty good size. Powered by an air cooled straight 6 you find in some mid size German tractors. And bay 4, a Yanmar powered Gehl mini excavator. I always forget, but I think we have some sort of contract with Yanmar for warranty work? Not necessarily MY bays, but cool nonetheless. Ive definitely got a few complaints about my job, but we definitely see variety. Ill load up some pictures if I get a chance.

Was the truck modified at all? If it was put in at a dealer, I cant imagine installation would be at fault. How the hell did the whole warranty deal work out?

I guess I was mostly surprised by the idea of using a non-MLS gasket on a 6.0L and was curious what you all thought about it. I cant say I would put alot of faith in these, but I can imagine some people would.

Yes, Im familiar with the "black onyx" head gaskets, although I still haven't seen any decent explanation of what that coating is, or what it does.

Wasn't sure if I should put this up in the aftermarket section or not, but it is 6.0L specific so... Im not one to totally write off the performance aftermarket, as Im still a bit of a hot rodder at heart, and the thought of buying a cheap (blown up) 6.0L has crossed my mind more then once, so I like to keep up on whats going on. But when I came across these Hypermax head gaskets, I didnt quite know what to think. I searched and didnt find anything about them on here, so I thought Id bring them up. I especially like the part about them having no warranty, and only failing when its your fault.

Already did all that, new line to the tank put in, etc... Vacuum was good. Single tank.

School bus.

Got the pic, thanks. Like I said, I already swapped that out and it did not make a change. Today I got put on another job so I was only able to work on it for a bit, but my foreman just suggested that I verify the fuel level once more, just to be safe (fuel gauge inop). Just looking at it, it seemed to have enough fuel in it, but I decided to put a few gallons in it anyway. Test drove it afterward, and the bus had no issues. Now, either I made the biggest rookie F%&* up yet and just ran it too low diagnosing another issue this thing had and the fuel sloshing around in the tank was enough to kill it while driving, or theres something in the tank and the extra fuel in the tank kept it out of the pickup tube. At least thats all I could think of.

PM sent. For the record, I have almost no experience with ANY injection pump. I cant recall the miles right now and I havent inspect the throttle shaft. Ill get back to you about it when im back at work tomorrow.

The overflow valve, I think Im still confused. It looks similar the the valve on the back of the 466E oil manifolds, correct? If so, like I said, I already swapped it out. Does anyone have a picture maybe? As far as the check ball on the inlet side. The filter module and hand primer on this engine is not similar to that. It mounts the filter upside down and uses a smaller fuel filter. It has a hand primer on the left side that you unscrew and pump after turning a knob.

By check valve do you mean the pressure regulator on the return line or is it in the pump itself? Ive already had a test regulator on it and it didnt fix it (forgot to mention it). Its also got a new set of nozzles in it (forgot to mention).

I actually bypassed the filter completely and ran it shortly and it still had the concern. They were not complaining about cold starting. The timing is currently at 14 degrees BTDC, spec is 12 degrees. As far as the aneroid update, Im not sure. Is there anyway to tell by looking at it if its been done or not. The engine has had its injection pump changed.

I thought that because there was no air in the fuel after it that is an indication that the suction tube is not cracked? We have a tank cleaning machine. Ive never used it personally, but seen it used several times for cleaning rusted out tanks. Would that be as good as cleaning it manually?

My foreman is terrible at listening to customers. The last one I remember was a truck came in for low power. The customer says along with his concern, "You know, it HAS been awhile since I had the fuel filters changed, it could be that". So now a low power concern gets written up as "Line A: service fuel filters". And I get bitched out the next day when the truck comes back with 'the same' low power complaint. I knew what the customer said because I spoke with him when he came back.

Ive got a '95 school bus with a Bosch pump 466. It loses fuel pressure under a load. It will run all day long idling or high idling, but as soon as it goes under a load, it will slowly lose pressure. It will not restart unless you hand prime the system. It also smokes white heavily when it starts losing pressure. I cracked the bleeder on the injection pump, and it had a ton of air in the fuel. I inspected the suction line from the lift pump to the tank, and found it had several rubbed spots (nothing looked rubbed through, but a few spots were close). I replaced the line, and it still had air in it. So I put a sight glass on the line right as it came off the pickup tube, and theres no air in it. I pulled the fitting that goes from the suction line to the lift pump (2 piece with banjo fitting to pump) and inspected it. I pulled it apart, resealed it, and put new copper washers on the banjo fitting. Still has air. I replaced the lift pump. Still has air. My foreman made 2 calls to a local pump shop and they said theres ABSOLUTELY no way the pump could be doing anything to aerate the fuel. I also took both pressure lines (lift pump to filter module & filter module to injection pump), and blew air through them to see if maybe they had blockages, as well as bypassed the filter module for a short time to see if it had a blockage (already had brand new filter on it). Any ideas?

I would have to agree with that. I can definitely see how an occasional user would get frustrated easily. It took me some time to get proficient.

Im pretty happy with ServiceMaxx overall, but I do miss the built in daig. I like its similarities to Diamond Logic Builder.

Yes, I took them out earlier and tested them to make sure they were good. #2 dripped and was only spraying out of 2 holes. I disassembled, cleaned it, and reassembled it, and it sprayed good. No change on the smoke. Nozzles came in today, so theyll probably be going in tomorrow.

I did not have the gear train apart at all during the overhaul. Pump timing was one of the first things I checked. It was at 12 degrees which is spec, but my foreman recommended changing it to 16 degrees, because in his experience they've always run better at that. It ran slightly better, but no help on the smoke. That is actually why im doing the nozzles. The International guy I was in touch with thought that with the fresh engine and higher compression could be causing the worn out nozzles to open at improper pressures and cause a timing problem at the nozzles. Ive been through everything else, so I went for it. Theyre coming in tomorrow. This ones been a real headscratcher.

Alright, Im leaning toward this not being an issue, but I am talking about it being in the actual combustion chamber, not in the turbo. Ha, no. I dont do any gas work. I just overhauled a '95 DT466 with a Bosch injection pump, and it smokes white and I cant for the life of me figure it out. Started talking to International and they suggested replacing the nozzles. When I pulled one to get the code off of it, I noticed the anti-seize I put on the nozzle got down on the tip. (whether this was how it was running or just from pulling it out, Im not sure) I thought maybe if this was the case on all 6 nozzles, it might be causing a smoking issue.

Does anyone know if antiseize (for whatever reason) gets into the combustion chamber, will it cause any smoking at all for extended periods of time? Were talking about a relatively small amount, but in each cylinder. I already feel stupid asking this, so please, dont ask.

I really enjoy being hourly at my dealership. After a few years where I am currently, Id really like to get into UPS. They have an almost entirely IH fleet, and its nothing but good from what I hear.

This is the same Taurus I mentioned in my last thread. I happen to be riding in it, and when we stopped and shifted into park, the car revved up by itself, it got to 3,000 rpm and she shut it off, but it seemed to be still rising. It did this a couple times. She didnt have time to let me look at anything. I dont have much access to this car, so any help with where to start on this one would really help.

Whats this "revised procedure"? A Ford thing Im assuming? Ive always just used a scraper and a die grinder with the red roloc pads. Never had a problem.