batmantech

Done tons of these also here is my steps for F-150. Pull inner fender,tire. Drop sway bar at mount nuts. Remove lower engine mount nuts. Trans jack, push up on RH engine. Work through fender. Use welder to remove broken bolts. Tip of the day--Everyone gets m-time for broken studs (punch ro carefully) On Exploers with same manifolds(i think the 4.6) do the same but evacuate A/C and remove the compressor attaching lines(this makes for easy removal and no need to drain the coolant) I like your idea of actually removeing the mount. I might try that on the next one with multipe broken studs. On other thing I run a thread chaser through the holes, Makes starting those new studs much eaiser.

Loking for info on this. 2003 6.0 man. trans customer wants a salvage yard engine(cracked injector melted piston, broken tip of glow plug broke vale and wreaked the seat) Parts worked with junk yard and stating that 03 with man. trans. is different than 03 with auto. Haviing hard time finding 03 with man. I can see the adaptor spacer on the back is different. Has anyone delt with somthing like this before. Do you know if it is just a matter of transfering parts? Getting a lot of "they say it will/will not work" comments. Of course "they" are not the ones doing the work. As always thanks for the feed back.

its not your computer its the pts site

Batman referances never get old ...COOL Anyway I could directly connect with him?

Fordracer ... Question how much did you get for that FICM you sold?

I dont remember seeing any such list. I would like to have a copy if you do find one. FYI In my situation, this dealership has two locations in two towns 15 miles apart. ALL speacial tools are sent to the other location(I guess in the eyes of Ford we are one?)Starting in 2003 we recieve no red boxes here. So every job requires you to look ahead and get the tools coming here. We did and do purchase a few common tools here so its not to bad. Good luck with the process!

2004 late build (icp in front) What do you guys think its worth?

No It is actually complete--200,000 mile truck--- customer bought a used complete assy.

Have been looking to sell a 6.0 core engine, complete(melted piston damaged block) Anyone know if there is anyone that purcahses these things. I suspect it is scrap iron.

Wow, I think I have been reading the FORD manual soo long that it started to make sense.

06 cranks no start, loud pop noise in intake-no icp, no base oil press. Inspect reg. looked ok pulled gerotor. The cover is heavly grooved both gears have deep gouges. My first question,What holds the outer gear in place, is it the cover? How much grooving can there be in the front engine cover? I see one groove in the top portion. What caused the damage? I would assume that it has to do with the loud pop in the intake. So I checked man. compression all 400 psi. The poping is from cylinder #7. I think somthing let go and it went into the pump, but what? And where else did it go? Any thoughts? Or previous experiance. As always thanks in advance!

Jim you were correct. The piston is melted grooved the cylinder walls and hit the head. Well at least now the customer can see the damage that is there. Thanks for listening and the input.

this thing will actually make the tester tube whistle

opps I did mean 15 inches of crankcase press,man comp. in bad hole 50 psi good hole 400psi. And yes I am slightly paranoid about this, I torn down my share of these and done plenty of oil-egr coolers, cab off headgaskets. I think its more the servive manager giving that look and the customer giving his ideas of what it could be or what I might be "overlooking". We have all been there I know. Thanks for the input.

04 late build 6.0 Customer drove low on fuel then had a miss continued to drive it until no start. Icp low found IPR not changing replaced IPR valve starts up runs rough misses. Power balance #3 low relative comp.#3 10% low. Man comp #3 low. Check crankcase press. 15 psi. Visual injector looks ok.vale train ok. Looked through injector hole hard to see the whole piston. My question with that high crankcase press can that only lead to one thing piston/ring damage? Is ther anything else to inspect before teardowm?

pack the cores in the original box. You can stack a few in each box. then tape each box to each other then find a box to side them in. I think the max is 9. I have sent in mulptiple times with no problems.

THis unit got a flywheel and hub spacer. Dowels were fine.

Have a 09 550 no crank found flywheel broken about a inch away from the crank bolts. Engine is able to be turned with rachet.Driver said it started making a noise driving 6o mph. Just wondering if anyone has seen this before. Trying to figure out if it is just a straight flywheel failue or somthing else.

Now thats funny!

Has anyone with poor speed tried to contact your provider? Has anyone found a way to increase your speed? I thought I had an issue with my laptop but when I tried it at work it tested much better,so I know it is an issue with my home service.

I wonder when/ who will be the first to mount those little things on somthing else,go-cart,lawnmower,another gas engine. Or who will modify these on the car to really push them to the limit? I bet that will be a You-tube sensation

took it few weeks back in Twin Cities It is interseting that having diesel back ground made it much simpler to understand. Check out those little turbos!

Hey Bruce, Great pictures. I was able to use this today to find that seal kit. I knew I had seen this and after parts dept. telling me it was $375.00. I knew you guys had the info- so a quick search of the DTS 7.3 forum there it was. Thanks

Thanks for the info. Got the lisle tool ordered!

I have also found the impact to work well. like was stated you need to be on the plug straight. Somtimes I just use a 3/8 rachet. I have only used the Ford tool and a punch to push down the porcelin. I make a mark on the punch so I dont go to far...so far so good. I would like to know more about this lisle tool. How does it push the porcelin out of the way?